As vineyards give way to orchards, and fruit is laid out to dry on the flanks of Route 62, perhaps the last thing you expect to encounter along the world’s longest wine route is a wildlife sanctuary boasting elephant, lion and leopard.

But then Sanbona Wildlife Reserve – in so many ways – catches most visitors by surprise.

It’s been close on 10 years since Adrian Gardiner – the businessman who made Eastern Cape Big Five safaris famous at Shamwari – bought up over a dozen failing fruit and sheep farms in the hills between Route 62 and the Anysberg.

Fences were pulled down and the land was given time and space to recover until antelope were slowly returned to the Klein Karoo. Then, in 2003, lion and cheetah hunted on the plains here for the first time in over three centuries.

It was a remarkable transformation for a unique landscape that was on the verge of collapse, and a safari at Sanbona is unlike any other game experience South Africa has to offer.

The low scrub of the Klein Karoo is a far cry from the lush bushveld, but with plenty of space and careful land management the 54 000 hectares of Sanbona supports a surprising array of wildlife.

Thickets of thorny acacia are nibbled by giraffe; klipspringer keep out of harm’s way in the sandstone cliffs; the lush grasses along the river lines attract the snuffling white rhino; while springbok, duiker and other antelope thrive on the wide open plains, providing prey for the cheetah and lion that prowl here.

The powerful tawny lions are always a marvel to see in the wild, but Sanbona has something unique up its sleeve. The reserve has long been home to a breeding project for the famous white lions of the Timbavati – their lightness caused by a recessive gene, not albinism – and two snow-white females now wander freely.

Up in the valleys the elusive Cape Mountain Leopard keeps largely to itself, but a conservation project run in conjunction with the Cape Leopard Trust has had great success with camera traps, recording the movement of these exceptional cats in the distant hills. Sightings are rare, but it’s enough of a thrill to gaze up into the kloofs and imagine they are up there looking back down at you.

It’s a fascinating ark of animals that call Sanbona home, but with vast amounts of space and a sparse landscape the sightings are spread far and wide. Although home to the sought-after ‘Big Five’, a game-drive at Sanbona isn't the 'identity parade' of the northern reserves where racing vehicles compete to tick off the usual culprits before heading back to the boma.

At Sanbona, the wildlife is only half the attraction and your eyes will often be drawn away from the animals to admire the magnificent stage they have been given to perform on.

The reserve is home to over 600 species of plants across a number of floral kingdoms and you’ll quickly discover the medicinal properties of fynbos, how Poverty Bush foretold a farmer’s woes and the soapy feel of the lye-bush.

If that all sounds a little underwhelming to regular bushveld visitors, remember that half the joy in a safari comes down to the quality of the guiding. Here the highly trained rangers do a great job of bringing the Karoo to life, shining a light on the intricate ecosystems that hold this fragile landscape together.

From the lumbering elephant to the humble leopard tortoise, every species has its niche here; like so many animal acrobats engaged in the delicate balancing act that makes Sanbona quite unique. Unlike many other so-called ‘Big Five’ reserves in the Western Cape this is a self-sustaining, fully functioning ecosystem where the animals are free to roam… and eat each other.

Fire and ice forged this landscape

Luckily there are no impala on the reserve to make me feel guilty at the braai that evening, as I tuck into a piece of perfectly grilled Impala fillet.

While the plains of Sanbona may be wild, Sanbona’s three lodges offer oh-so-warm hospitality. The entire reserve was given a makeover in 2009, with two new lodges and a new look for the grand old dame – Tilney Manor – where we find ourselves one bright spring weekend.

There’s a distinctly English feel to this old farmhouse, and with the Tilney family tree on the wall stretching back to Medieval England I guess that’s no surprise. The Georgian architecture is strikingly formal in the craggy Karoo landscape, but the welcome is nothing but relaxed.

Lavender sprigs abound in our spacious suite – Tilney has just six, making it the most intimate of the three lodges – while the English country garden outside the window gets an African touch with Karoo-friendly wild dagga and quiver trees. Outside showers have views to the pink skies in the west, while the deep freestanding tub in the open-plan bathroom beckons after a chilly evening game drive.

Dinners are served in the formal dining room on the manor’s enclosed terrace, or out on the patio with its garden views and night-sky vistas.

Those same night skies form a canopy over the magnificent Dwyka Tented Lodge.

Set in an amphitheatre in the north of the reserve, these stone and canvas creations are the most stylish accommodation option on Sanbona. Nine tents, carefully positioned to ensure the utmost privacy, echo the empty skies and craggy cliff face above the dry riverbed. Stone walls frame the king-size beds while lofty canvas roofs offer a sense of air and space. The riverbed may be dry, but the private plunge pool on the outside deck is always sparkling.

It’s a similar scene at the main lodge, where sleek sofas and muted colour palettes make for a stylish dining and lounge area that’s all wooden beams and raw stone. Outside, a sheltered boma area comes alive at night to the flicker of flame.

It was fire and ice that forged this hard landscape eons ago; a process that is duly honoured at the other new addition to Sanbona: Gondwana Lodge.

And at Gondwana the focus is firmly on being family-friendly. The 12 rooms – some of which are inter-leading – and restaurant area share a similarly stylish feel to Dwyka, but kids are made to feel at home too. While parents relax in the Retreat spa, there’s a separate kids’ club – piled high with educational books and games – to keep younger ones entertained.

Safari activities are also geared towards younger travellers, with a safe interpretive trail nearby for them to learn about the fauna and flora found on the reserve. On the twice-daily drives, rangers interpret the unique San rock art for a younger audience, while the Sanbona Activity Book keeps kids involved in the unfolding game drive.

Back at the lodge, the falling sun sets the waters of the Bellair Dam aflame, and casts a cerise glow over the distant Anysberg Mountains. Above, the wide Karoo skies turn into star-spangled ceilings as Gondwana’s resident Spotted Eagle Owl hoots in greeting and flies off into the gloaming. There may not be vast herds of buffalo on these plains, or a leopard up every tree, but at Sanbona it’s the little things that will enchant.

Sanbona is part of the acclaimed Mantis Collection.
Visit www.sanbona.com or call +27 (0) 41 407 1000

• The flowers are most impressive in the heat of the day and will move throughout the day to face the sun, so try and walk or drive with the sun behind you.
• Nieuwoudtville Publicity Association: www.nieuwoudtville.com or call 027 218 1336
• Visit www.sanbi.org for more on the Hantam National Botanical Garden.

My lungs are burning as I take the last few steps over the crest of Helsekloof. My knees aren’t doing so well either, shaking like an Elvis-impersonator, and the straps of my rucksack are cutting into my shoulders. I can feel a blister forming on my left heel. ‘Why am I doing this again?’ I think to myself.

And then the huge smile on my face reminds me. Far below, near the grassy campsites of CapeNature’s Algeria forest station I can see my car. Inside it is a week of frustrations, cell phone messages, deadlines, to-do lists and – for all intents and purposes – civilisation. Ahead of me: three days to enjoy the space, solitude and seclusion of the Cederberg Wilderness Area, all 71 000 beautiful hectares of it.

This chunk of mountain wilderness is one of the most alluring destinations in South Africa, attracting climbers, hikers and weekend escape artists who flock here to enjoy the otherworldly rock formations and untamed landscape. Forget the gentle grassy slopes of the Drakensberg or the crowded peaks of Switzerland. Here, within an hour of your car you can be slap bang in the middle of nowhere, with just fynbos, rivers and Cape Mountain Leopards for company. Yes, these elusive mountain cats still prowl these peaks; another tick on this area’s wilderness report card, so no need to head for the Himalayas.

Poring over the map with my lunch of ProVitas and marmite, the names of these vlaktes and valleys speak their own stories: Frustration Peak, Laurie’s Hell, Consolation Peak and Groot-Hartseer Kloof tell of tired legs and long days in the mountains. These are peaks to be reckoned with too, soaring to over 2000-metres and snaring heavy falls of snow when the winter cold fronts roll in.

Time it right though and you’ll be blessed with blue-sky days, plenty of water gurgling in the streams and peaks clad in rich green fynbos. If you’re lucky, there may even be some white stuff hiding in the gullies for an impromptu snowball fight.

It’s an idyllic scene in the sunshine, but if the weather rolls in you’ll need to be able to look after yourself. A good map is essential, and you should preferably walk with someone who knows the route. A few simple stone huts dot the wilderness, but if these are full you’ll be glad you brought that wind-proof tent and a good quality down sleeping bag.

Wandering the high-level wilderness areas in winter requires a bit of mountain chutzpah, but for a relaxing weekend with the family the Cederberg also delivers.

When the distant Sneeuberg wears its crown of white there are few better places to haul out a pack of cards than beside the fire in a cosy Cederberg cottage. The popular Sanddrif resort offers a range of modern four-person cottages, but the thatched Groothuis under the oak trees on the banks of the Driehoekrivier is the pick of the bunch.

Driehoek Farm has a smaller selection of cottages; along with wonderful grassy campsites, while Kromrivier farm (officially, and rather terribly, called the Cederberg Tourist Park) is a perennial favourite with its range of simple bungalows well suited to families and larger groups. Provincial conservation authority CapeNature also runs well-serviced campsites and basic cottages near the Algeria forest station.

The notion of a forest station in these rocky hills may seem unlikely, but these valleys were first settled in the search for timber, with the hard, aromatic wood of the endemic Clanwilliam Cedar (Widdringtonia cedarbergensis) highly prized for everything from furniture to telephone poles! Today the wonderfully gnarled surviving Cedars are mostly found on the high peaks where they were safe from lumberjack axes, but CapeNature and environmental groups are slowly restoring these majestic trees to the region through extensive replanting programs.

Shy trees hiding on the hilltops, rock formations carved by wind and weather and leopards watching from the high peaks; the Cederberg isn’t a destination to easily give up its secrets, but spend a little time soaking up the silence – either in a mountain-top hut or fire-lit cottage – and you’ll soon understand why this rugged range of mountains casts a spell on all who visit.

Don’t leave without
There’s more to the Cederberg than hiking… take the whole family along and seek out these local favourites.

• Visit an ‘art gallery’: The Cederberg is famous for its San rock art, daubed on the walls of caves and overhangs between 300 and 6000 years ago. Scenes of migrating elephant and shaman in trance dances are easily found at the Stadsaal Caves, but there are dozens of rock art sites across the valley so keep your eyes open!
• Go time travelling: Hidden away in the valleys to the north, the residents of Wupperthal have quietly been growing rooibos and making their renowned velskoen since the mission village was settled in 1865. Today this neat and prosperous little village is cottoning onto the benefits of eco-tourism and there are a few cottages to hire, as well as the excellent ‘Lekkerbekkie’ tearoom.
• Swimming in Maalgat: Refreshing in summer, downright bracing in winter; the icy-cold inky-black waters of Maalgat are one of the best swimming spots in the valley. It’s a 20-minute walk downstream from the Sanddrif campsite, and is a great spot for hanging out on a hot summer’s day, or admiring the waterfalls in winter. Permits available from Dwarsrivier Farm.
• Stargazing Saturdays: The passionate volunteers behind the Cederberg Astronomical Observatory bring the stars down to earth for visitors to the valley, with an informative slideshow and a range of telescopes for you to experience the heavens up close. The Observatory is open most Saturday evenings from 8pm; closing only when the moon is full or winter storms obscure the heavens. There’s no charge for their stargazing events, but donations are welcome.
• Pedal power: Mountain bikes aren’t welcome in the wilderness areas of the Cederberg, but there are still a few great off-road options for you enjoy. Apart from pedalling the network of gravel and farm roads, you can tackle the Wolfberg and Lot’s Wife MTB trails, with some entertaining single-track through the weird rock formations. There are also five trails to explore on the farm Kromrivier.

Top 5 walks

• Maltese Cross: This 3½-4 hour day walk makes a great family outing and is suitable for anyone who’s reasonably fit. The Maltese Cross – a six-storey freestanding column of rock – is the Cederberg’s most famous rock formation, and typical of the other-worldly shapes that have been carved out of the soft red sandstone.
• Sneeuberg: Towering above the Maltese Cross is the Sneeuberg, the highest peak in the Cederberg at 2027m. It’s a stiff climb to the summit, and your best bet is to overnight at the Sneeuberg Hut before you tackle the peak. The sweat will be well worth it though: from the summit the views over the entire range are spectacular, and on a clear day you can see Table Mountain some 200km to the south. In summer, keep an eye out near the peak for the rare Snow Protea.
• Wolfberg Cracks and Arch: Across the valley, the ‘Cracks’ in the sandstone mantle of the Wolfberg are another popular day excursion, with a steep climb (you’ll realize just how steep when your knees turn to jelly on the way back down) from Sanddrif leading you through these towering alleyways in the rock. The well-marked path leads through the easy first crack, but scrambling up through the second, smaller crack to the right is a whole lot more fun. If your legs are feeling strong it’s worth extending your walk to include the magnificent Wolfberg Arch, about 90-minutes’ walk away.
• Tafelberg: From the top of the Cracks you can clearly see the ‘kettle’ and ‘spout’ that make up the Tafelberg. Popular with rock climbers, the stiff climb up to the Spout and onto the flat top of the main peak is also a fantastic day walk for fit hikers. Alternatively, pack a sleeping bag, lots of water and warm gear and spend the night in the ‘Spout Cave’.
• Sleepad Hut: Although little more than four stone walls and a tin roof, the Sleepad Hut is surely one of the most spectacular wilderness huts in the country, and an excellent base for a few days of wilderness walking. From here you can tackle Crystal Pools, Tafelberg, Sneeukop and Shadow Peak with just a light daypack on your shoulders. After a hard day on the trail, the hut also offers one of the best sundowner supper spots on the planet, with views out over the untouched Cederberg.

How to get there
The Cederberg is situated 240km from of Cape Town. Follow the N7 north of Cape Town. Approximately 30km past Citrusdal take the sign-posted Cederberg road to the right. Cross the low-water bridge over the Olifants River and travel past Algeria Forest Station, over Uitkyk Pass and into the main Cederberg valley. If the Olifants is in flood there are alternative routes via Cirtusdal or Clanwilliam.
For more information on permits, accommodation and touring the area, visit www.capenature.org.za or www.cederberg.co.za.

First published in the Discovery Magazine, Spring 2010.

The Whale Trail could easily have been called the Bottlenose Dolphin Trail, the endangered Black Oystercatcher Trail, the Deserted Beaches Trail or the Pristine Fynbos Trail. We saw all of these and more on the five-day, 55-kilometre wander through the De Hoop Nature Reserve, but in the end the best part of all remained the daily whale acrobatics.

Lying 240 kilometres east of Cape Town, the De Hoop Nature Reserve is known as the jewel in the crown of Cape Nature, the Western Cape’s nature conservation body. The reserve covers around 34 000 hectares, but the offshore marine protected area is just as important. Stretching five kilometres out to sea, it is one of the largest protected ocean areas in Africa and provides a sanctuary for an array of marine life.

Marine life like the whales gamboling just behind the breakers, and the pair of African Black Oystercatchers that keep me company as I grab a seat on a rock to jot a few notes in my Moleskine.

But let me go back a few days.

Despite its name the Whale Trail starts a dozen kilometres inland in the shadow of the Potberg. It’s here that new arrivals settle into the first night’s hut, get briefed by conservation staff about do’s and don’ts for the trail, and get set to tackle five days of wilderness.

Not that the trail is all about hardship. Each of the five overnight huts is well equipped with bunk beds, hot showers, flush loos and cosy living areas. What’s more, you can pay a little extra to have your luggage portaged from one hut to the next, so you only have to walk with a day-bag for your lunch, camera and raingear.

The trail has rapidly become one of the country’s iconic hikes, so popular you need to book months in advance if you want to walk it during the peak whale season from August to October. Even if you walk out of season, when whales are few, it remains one of South Africa’s most incredible walks.

Day one

If the weather plays ball you’re bound to see one of the trail’s highlights a few minutes into the first day’s walk, as you ascend the slopes of the Potberg. The 611-metre peak will certainly get you puffing, but the sight of endangered Cape vultures — Potberg is home to the last breeding colony in the Western Cape — soaring on the thermals will make you forget all about those aching legs.

The summit is worth the huffing and puffing too, offering magnificent 360° views, with the Breede River and Langeberg Mountains to the north and the dazzling Indian Ocean to the south.

You won’t reach the sea on your first day. From the top the path winds its way through unspoiled fynbos, down into the Melkhout River (a great spot for lunch and a swim) and then over one last hill to the hut at Cupidoskraal. Boots off, shower on (or grab a swim in the nearby dam) and celebrate: the most strenuous day is behind you.

Day two

Not that the second day’s route is a walk in the park. Make an early start, as you’ll have 14.7 kilometres to cover, and the first stretch heads straight up the flanks of the Hamerkop. The fynbos is just as stunning as the Potberg, but luckily it’s only 45 minutes to the top and then a long meandering stretch towards the sea.

Take your time and keep an eye out for some of the reserves smaller beauties. Delicate ericas, rustling restios and colourful watsonias — along with hundreds of other fynbos species — hide among the thick stands of protea.

As you drop off the sandstone mountain onto the limestone cliffs, the changing vegetation is the first clue that you’re approaching the coast. Through a riverbed, past a flock of blue cranes (South Africa’s national bird), around a bend and … there it is, Noetsie, the first of three spectacular coastal huts you’ll call home for the most impressive section of the Whale Trail.

As I arrive and drop down my pack a southern right whale cruises into the small bay, her young calf huddled beside her. Just 50 metres from the shore, they skirt the rocks and linger in the shallows for a minute before moving on. Spectacular.

It’s almost as spectacular as the dolphins that use the bay as a playground that evening. Up to 40 bottlenose dolphins glide, leap and hunt through the stormy waters in a grand show of bravado, either for us or themselves. I brave the chilly waters for a quick swim, but the currents can be swift here so I don’t venture deeper than my waist before heading back to the braai fire at the scenic seaside lapa.

Day three

Day three is perhaps the best of the entire trail. You’ll feel your calves working on the steep climbs up and down the eroded limestone hills, but you can rest them in the calm pools of Stilgat come lunchtime, and long flat sections along the cliff-tops allow ample time for spotting whales, dolphins and birds. Apart from oystercatchers, you’ll see white-breasted cormorants, Hartlaub’s gulls, terns, sandpipers and — bizarrely — Egyptian geese along the trail.

The restless sea has eroded the limestone cliffs into fantastical formations, but it has also claimed its fair share of victims. Apart from countless shipwrecks along this coast, the last steps of the day wander past the small granite memorial to Daniel de Wet, washed off the rocks here in 1933. The pounding surf has carved some lovely rock pools to explore at low tide, but it’s a stark reminder to always keep one eye on the sea.

A kilometre from where De Wet met his end, the Hamerkop hut is perfectly situated just behind the dunes. A wonderful two-story cottage, the second-floor deck is the best spot for sundowner whale-watching. Even after dark you should keep an eye out for wildlife; Hamerkop Hut is home to a curious spotted genet, who regularly visits to see what all the fuss is about.

Day four

The penultimate day dawns and a long beach walk lies ahead. But it’s only 7.8 kilometres to the next hut, so take it easy on the soft sand beaches and enjoy the sensation of a beach with no other footprints but your own. The route wanders past Lekkerwater, once the holiday home of former President FW de Klerk.

Keep an eye out for the camouflaged nests of the oystercatchers: they lay their eggs just above the high-tide mark. From sand and up onto more cliffs, you’ll wander past magnificent blowholes where the high tide blasts up through gaps in the soft limestone.

It’s the same limestone the last night’s hut is perched on. Vaalkrans has the most dramatic position of all the overnight stops, clinging to a cliff some 50 metres above surf crashing onto wave-cut platforms. More spectacular sunset spots are hard to come by.

Day five

It takes no more than three hours to walk the final stretch to Koppie Alleen, but leave plenty of time to explore at Hippo Pools, a wonderful network of rock pools where you can cool off before catching the shuttle-bus back to Potberg.

Whether you walk for the whales or the vultures, the fynbos or the wide open spaces it’s easy to see why hikers from across the globe are flocking to this wonderful trail through the Overberg. Dust off your hiking shoes, book some leave and come and wander with whales.

For more on walking the Whale Trail, visit CapeNature at http://www.capenature.org.za.
Originally published on http://travel.iafrica.com, courtesy www.mediaclubsouthafrica.com.

“The afternoon came down as imperceptibly as age comes to a happy man. A little gold entered into the sunlight. The bay became bluer and dimpled with shore-wind ripples. Those lonely fishermen who believe that the fish bite at high tide left their rocks, and their places were taken by others, who were convinced that the fish bite at low tide.”

John Steinbeck may have been writing of the deep Pacific when he wrote this paragraph in ‘Tortilla Flat’, but he could well have been standing on the quay at Cape Town’s picturesque Kalk Bay Harbour, gazing out over False Bay.

As the sun sneaks westward and dips below the sea off Kommetjie, the shadows leaking out from behind Muizenberg Peak, the self-same fishermen are standing patiently, casting their lines out into the bay, hoping for a bite.

False Bay has long been home to some of South Africa’s best fishing grounds, and today draws anglers from across the country keen to hook a big one. If that sounds like you then your best hopes lie some 20-kilometres off Cape Point. It’s here in the deep where the Yellowfin Tuna and Marlin roam, playing cat-and-mouse with men like Sean Amor.

Amor has been fishing these waters for over 25 years and there isn’t much he hasn’t caught. Today, it’s the thrill of getting guests to hook the big one that is the driving force behind his Hooked on Africa Fishing Charters. With a range of boats and tackle on offer you can choose in-shore fishing for hard-fighting yellowtail and snoek, or tackle the deep for the bountiful Tuna from September to June.

Even if the fish aren’t biting, a day out on the bright blue ocean offers the chance to watch Albatross dancing on the winds, Killer whales on the hunt and Dusky dolphins at play.

With ocean on three sides the Cape is certainly a great spot for sea fishing from boat or shore, but its fresh mountain streams also offer fantastic fishing in pursuit of the wily trout.

One of the Cape’s best rivers for stalking trout is the Holsloot River as it tumbles out of the picturesque Stettynskloof valley near Worcester. Widely regarded as one of the best dry-fly rivers in the country, crystal clear water and free-rising rainbow trout will keep you casting long into the afternoon. Trout Haven on the banks of the Holsloot is the perfect place to stay for a few days, swopping tales around the fire of fish lost and landed.

Of course when it comes to fly-fishing for trout the cold waters of Mpumalanga as they tumble down the escarpment are famed as being home to some of South Africa’s best catches.

In the heart of the region is the village of Dullstroom; arguably South Africa's fly-fishing capital. While some might say the booming town has become a victim of its own success, the area still offers excellent still water and river fishing for both Rainbow and Brown Trout.

Dullstroom offers two town dams (no spinning allowed, and one is catch-and-release only), but much of the best fishing in the area is found on private waters and there are a number of wonderful farms and lodges with excellent rivers and dams waiting to be fished.

Before you hit the water though you might want to stop in at the Mavungana Fly-fishing Centre. Billed as South Africa’s largest fly-fishing outfitter, this emporium of all things piscatorial has all the gear you need to hook a trout, a full-time fly-tyer (lessons available on request), outside casting area for trying out rods as well as on-site casting instructors. Once you’ve mastered the art you can practise your skills on the 20-metre casting pond that is stocked with Rainbow Trout, Brown Trout and Black Bass.

You’ll also find trout-filled rivers tumbling off the escarpment in the high hills of the Eastern Cape, in and around the towns of Barkly East and Lady Grey, as well as in the picturesque KwaZulu-Natal Midlands.

This last area is also home to the wonderful Midlands Meander. With green rolling hills, quaint towns, and more cosy pubs than you can shake a pint at it’s no surprise that the Meander has become a popular destination for weekend escapes and ‘semigrants’ looking for a quiet country lifestyle.

The region is brimming with streams and dams to be explored – both private waters and in the province’s nature reserves – but there’s one spot you should definitely end up at: Rawdon’s Hotel and Fly-fishing Estate.

Scenic walks on the Estate lead you to some excellent fishing waters, and invariably end up with a glass of fine ale from the Nottinghamd Road Brewery. Whether you decide to toast the day’s fishing at the end of the day, or come back at daybreak when the fish definitely bite better is up to you.

One thing’s for sure though, a day spent casting a line in the midst of some of South Africa’s most beautiful scenery is without doubt a day well spent.

Originally published in the Blue Train customer magazine.

With a coastline stretching over 2500 kilometres from Alexander Bay on the icy Atlantic to Kosi Bay in sub-tropical KwaZulu-Natal, it’s no surprise that South Africa’s oceans boast some outstanding dive spots. Whether you’re admiring the subtle beauty to be found in the chilly Cape waters or enjoying the tropical aquarium of the east coast you’ll find a reef with your name on it…

Cape Columbine
The kelp forests of Cape Columbine are filled with neoprene-clad holidaymakers in the summer months, but you won’t find any scuba tanks here. This is one of the best spots on the West Coast to free-dive for the prized – and tasty – Cape Rock Lobster. Camp in the reserve at the legendary Tietiesbaai which is named, allegedly, after the granite boulders along the shoreline. Diving for crayfish is restricted to certain times of the year, and a permit is required. Enquire at any post office.

Justin’s Caves
Cape Town offers dozens of dive sites, but in the summer months you’ll want to be on the icy Atlantic side, where the prevailing south-easter ensures crystal-clear waters. Add a dash of glamour to a day of diving by suiting up at Justin’s Caves, an underwater playground of jumbled granite. The 12 Apostles Hotel across the road is perfect for an after-dive drink.

False Bay
The warmer waters of False Bay offer a wonderful range of dive options catering for all skill levels. Experienced divers should hop on a charter boat and head for the wrecks of Smitswinkel Bay (35m). The five ships scuttled here were sunk in the 1970s to form an artificial reef, and are today covered with marine life.

Not far from ‘Smits’, A-Frame and Windmill beach are great options for novice divers. Easy shore entries and shallow waters allow you to relax and search for the resident dogfish and pyjama sharks.

If you’re feeling brave Whittle Rock in the middle of the Bay is an outstanding site, but is also popular with Great White sharks so a quick descent is essential!

Big adventure in Kleinbaai
If sharks are your cup of tea, then you’ll need to make the daytrip out to Kleinbaai. Billed as the Great White Shark capital of the world, these awesome predators are drawn here by the 60 000 seals resident on Dyer Island and Geyser Rock. There are a number of cage-dive operators in Kleinbaai, but I’d highly recommend White Shark Projects, who have been running shark-trips since 1989 and offer a well-organised, informative and exciting half-day trip.

Protea Banks
You’ll find sharks aplenty on this challenging dive site two hours south of Durban and 8-kilometres offshore. Dropping down to 40m you’ll find Zambezi, Tiger, Hammerhead, Dusky, Ragged Tooth and Black Tip sharks hunting on the Banks, along with a wide variety of reef life. Strike it lucky and you may spot manta rays and whales cruising past. It’s a deep dive with a strong current, so it’s for experienced adventure divers only.

Aliwal Shoal
An hour’s drive further north; Aliwal is perhaps a little more forgiving. One of SA’s most popular sites, the diving is best from May to September when the visibility is good and Ragged Tooth sharks are resident. Regularly rated as one of the top 10 dive sites on the planet, Aliwal Shoal has something for everyone. Lionfish Hole (16m) and The Pinnacles (15m) are well suited for novice divers, while the more adventurous can drop to 30m and explore the wreck of The Nebo, which ran aground in 1884 and is still well preserved. The Produce, wrecked in 1974, lies on its side to the north of the Shoal and is a good place to spot migratory game fish.

Diving on the South Coast is also ideal for families as the area has lots to keep non-divers entertained, from safe swimming beaches to shopping malls, restaurants and golf courses.

The North Coast
The stretches of sand north of Durban have also become a popular holiday playground throughout the year and, while not as spectacular as the southern reefs, the seas around Umhlanga do offer some great diving. Reefs in this area tend to be closer in-shore, which means a shorter boat-ride but often less visibility. Winter months are best, when there’s lower rainfall and offshore winds. The T-Barge (27m) and The Trawler (26m) are the best dives in the area, both artificial reefs home to a dazzling array of reef and pelagic fish.

Sodwana Bay
If you’re an avid bubble-blower then skip Umhlanga and keep heading north. Past Richard’s Bay, past the game reserves of Hluhluwe-Unfolozi and on to Sodwana Bay… the Mecca of diving in South Africa.

Thanks to the warm waters brought down from the topics by the Mozambique current, Sodwana Bay is home to the southernmost coral reefs in the world. Most of the Sodwana reefs are between 500m and one kilometre offshore, and 8-14 kilometres north of Sodwana. Reefs are named according to their distance from the launch site at Jesser Point, with Five-Mile, Seven-Mile and Nine-Mile reefs the most famous.

Once you’ve made it through the crashing surf (divers help push the boats into the water before hopping on board!), scooted up the coast and dropped anchor, a watery wonderland waits. The pristine coral teems with a huge variety of marine life and, if you’re lucky, you could spot turtles, dolphins or even a whale shark. Between October and February loggerhead and leatherback turtles lay their eggs on the beaches, and it’s well worth joining one of the excellent night tours run by accredited tour operators.

These turtles, like the many tourists who flock here, come from across the globe to enjoy the warm waters, pristine coastline and soft-sand beaches. If these ocean explorers choose to land up on South Africa’s coastline, why shouldn’t you?

First published in Indwe magazine; the in-flight mag of SA Express