“The afternoon came down as imperceptibly as age comes to a happy man. A little gold entered into the sunlight. The bay became bluer and dimpled with shore-wind ripples. Those lonely fishermen who believe that the fish bite at high tide left their rocks, and their places were taken by others, who were convinced that the fish bite at low tide.”
John Steinbeck may have been writing of the deep Pacific when he wrote this paragraph in ‘Tortilla Flat’, but he could well have been standing on the quay at Cape Town’s picturesque Kalk Bay Harbour, gazing out over False Bay.
As the sun sneaks westward and dips below the sea off Kommetjie, the shadows leaking out from behind Muizenberg Peak, the self-same fishermen are standing patiently, casting their lines out into the bay, hoping for a bite.
False Bay has long been home to some of South Africa’s best fishing grounds, and today draws anglers from across the country keen to hook a big one. If that sounds like you then your best hopes lie some 20-kilometres off Cape Point. It’s here in the deep where the Yellowfin Tuna and Marlin roam, playing cat-and-mouse with men like Sean Amor.
Amor has been fishing these waters for over 25 years and there isn’t much he hasn’t caught. Today, it’s the thrill of getting guests to hook the big one that is the driving force behind his Hooked on Africa Fishing Charters. With a range of boats and tackle on offer you can choose in-shore fishing for hard-fighting yellowtail and snoek, or tackle the deep for the bountiful Tuna from September to June.
Even if the fish aren’t biting, a day out on the bright blue ocean offers the chance to watch Albatross dancing on the winds, Killer whales on the hunt and Dusky dolphins at play.
With ocean on three sides the Cape is certainly a great spot for sea fishing from boat or shore, but its fresh mountain streams also offer fantastic fishing in pursuit of the wily trout.
One of the Cape’s best rivers for stalking trout is the Holsloot River as it tumbles out of the picturesque Stettynskloof valley near Worcester. Widely regarded as one of the best dry-fly rivers in the country, crystal clear water and free-rising rainbow trout will keep you casting long into the afternoon. Trout Haven on the banks of the Holsloot is the perfect place to stay for a few days, swopping tales around the fire of fish lost and landed.
Of course when it comes to fly-fishing for trout the cold waters of Mpumalanga as they tumble down the escarpment are famed as being home to some of South Africa’s best catches.
In the heart of the region is the village of Dullstroom; arguably South Africa's fly-fishing capital. While some might say the booming town has become a victim of its own success, the area still offers excellent still water and river fishing for both Rainbow and Brown Trout.
Dullstroom offers two town dams (no spinning allowed, and one is catch-and-release only), but much of the best fishing in the area is found on private waters and there are a number of wonderful farms and lodges with excellent rivers and dams waiting to be fished.
Before you hit the water though you might want to stop in at the Mavungana Fly-fishing Centre. Billed as South Africa’s largest fly-fishing outfitter, this emporium of all things piscatorial has all the gear you need to hook a trout, a full-time fly-tyer (lessons available on request), outside casting area for trying out rods as well as on-site casting instructors. Once you’ve mastered the art you can practise your skills on the 20-metre casting pond that is stocked with Rainbow Trout, Brown Trout and Black Bass.
You’ll also find trout-filled rivers tumbling off the escarpment in the high hills of the Eastern Cape, in and around the towns of Barkly East and Lady Grey, as well as in the picturesque KwaZulu-Natal Midlands.
This last area is also home to the wonderful Midlands Meander. With green rolling hills, quaint towns, and more cosy pubs than you can shake a pint at it’s no surprise that the Meander has become a popular destination for weekend escapes and ‘semigrants’ looking for a quiet country lifestyle.
The region is brimming with streams and dams to be explored – both private waters and in the province’s nature reserves – but there’s one spot you should definitely end up at: Rawdon’s Hotel and Fly-fishing Estate.
Scenic walks on the Estate lead you to some excellent fishing waters, and invariably end up with a glass of fine ale from the Nottinghamd Road Brewery. Whether you decide to toast the day’s fishing at the end of the day, or come back at daybreak when the fish definitely bite better is up to you.
One thing’s for sure though, a day spent casting a line in the midst of some of South Africa’s most beautiful scenery is without doubt a day well spent.
Originally published in the Blue Train customer magazine.
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