From affordable family options to gravity-defying suites that will take your breath (and a healthy chunk of your bank balance) away, Richard Holmes rounds up some of his favourite lodges in and around the Kruger National Park…

Stretching some 350-kilometres from north to south, the Kruger National Park is vast and offers seemingly limitless places to stay. If you're on a budget the self-catering accommodation run by SANParks is the best way to stretch your Rands, but if you've got a little cash to burn the bushveld is your oyster.

Ngala Tented Camp
"You slept in a tent?" someone with little love for the great outdoors asked on my return home from Ngala Tented Camp. "I thought you were staying in style!"

But when Ngala 'does' a tent it's a masterpiece. The tent to end all tents. A tent with lofty canvas ceilings, elephantine bed, wicker armchairs, flickering paraffin lamps and an outdoor shower simply made for watching heavenly bodies. Stars… I mean.

The main lodge is chock-full of old world charm, with a deft style that's missing from so many other safari-spots. Stuffed animals on the walls are replaced with a bright African headdress. No zebra skin couch here, just chic retro chairs in green corduroy; rough stone walls in place of tacky prints of Africa’s Big Five.

The Ngala (which means 'lion' in Shangaan) reserve itself is a modest 14 000ha, but with fences dropped with the Timbavati to the West and Kruger to the East it’s as good as being in the Park itself. And, after your guided game drive, you have that lovely lodge to come back to, not some poorly-pitched tent at the rest camp. Ah yes... if I was going to go camping in the bushveld, Ngala Tented Camp would be my wigwam of choice. www.ngala.co.za

Jock Safari Lodge
Sir Percy Fitzpatrick's bushveld tale about his faithful hound Jock is one of South Africa's best-loved children's stories, and the lodge named in his honour is one of my favourite places to stay in the park.

The lodge boasts 12 luxury air-conditioned suites (each with a private plunge pool) which combine the wilderness with a touch of elegance. Throw in romantic mozzie nets, a bottle of chardonnay in the fridge and stylish décor and you've got the perfect honeymoon getaway.

But don't spend all your time at the pool. With just 24 guests enjoying the 6000ha private concession this is the Kruger you've always dreamed of; without the traffic jams, 'no entry' signs and crowded picnic sites. Sir Percy, and Jock, would be proud. www.jocksafarilodge.com

Singita Lebombo
The jewel in the Singita group's safari crown, each of the 15 suites at Singita Lebombo has been designed to resemble an eagle's nest. A five-star eagle with impeccable taste who likes their home comforts in beak-dropping style, that is.

Raised boardwalks (the lodge is unfenced) lead to your private eyrie where natural textures are  perfectly offset by modern touches – a hanging lamp of intricately moulded glass here, a deliciously modern chair there, an iPod on the wall playing the über-cool 'Singita mix' – to make this easily the most stylish safari escape the world has to offer.

Singita Lebombo has exclusive traversing rights to a large chunk of the Kruger National Park and, as you'd expect, the game viewing is excellent with plains game and rhino in abundance. Spotting the famous 26-strong pride of lions that claim the Lebombo Mountain as their own is also a highlight.

At Singita though, enjoying a taste of the good life is every bit as important as finding game. Back at the lodge every meal from Head Chef Clinton Drake's kitchen is a masterpiece, and made all the better accompanied by a fine vintage from the Lodge's 3000-bottle wine cellar.

A stay at Singita Lebombo isn't cheap by any means, but it is certainly worth every cent… this is one of those 'before-I-die' places to add to your list. www.singita.com

Hoyo Hoyo
Set in a 10 000 hectare private concession of Kruger, Hoyo Hoyo Tsonga Lodge offers a fascinating cultural safari experience, with intriguing suites in the form of six traditional Tsonga 'beehive' huts. The lodge is proud of the area's Tsonga heritage, and all fabrics, décor and objet d’art have been sourced from the local Tsonga community.

Staff at the lodge are happy to share the Tsonga way of life with guests, and fireside tribal tales over dinner are a regular highlight. In addition to the guided walks, bush picnics and traditional game drives in 'Big Five' country, the Nomadic Spa Experience allows you to experience relaxing spa treatments in the privacy of your beehive suite.

If you're looking for something more rewarding than furry creatures and fine food in the wilderness, this cultural experience is for you. www.capemilner.com/hoyo-hoyo


Kirkman's
Sabi Sand may not officially be part of Kruger, but no other private reserve has done quite so much to establish the region as one of the world's wildlife hotspots. Renowned for its big cat sightings, the reserve has over two dozen lodges, but you couldn't ask for a better base to spot feisty felines than Kirkman's Camp.

Harking back to a time when visitors hunted big game with carbines, not Canons, the lodge's 1920s colonial atmosphere has a charm all of its own, and an evening G&T on the lawns is simply compulsory. Dinner is similarly al fresco, served by candlelight on the grass (with curious warthogs in attendance) or in the outdoor boma.

The 18 rooms are spread out a little way from the lodge, and with no fences keeping the animals out you'll need an escort back to your room in case you bump into some grumpy bachelor buffalo. Although not as grand as many other lodges, the rooms are more than comfortable with a cosy yester-year charm and private verandas offering sweeping views over the Sand River. www.ccafrica.com

Pestana Kruger Lodge
Just outside Kruger's southern Malelane gate you'll find the four-star Pestana Kruger Lodge, a great option for an affordable Kruger getaway.

Each of the lodge's 74 rooms offer views of the indigenous gardens or the Crocodile River, which forms the border between the Lodge and the park. With hippos a-splashin' and game coming down to drink you hardly need leave the hotel to go game-spotting!

Unlike most other lodges you also have a choice of restaurants at Pestana; from Buhlebethu and Crocofellas overlooking the river to the outdoor Boma braai experience there's something to suit most pockets.

Money matters aside, this is also a great spot for families – there's a health spa for mum, supertube and games for the kids and a selection of golf courses nearby for dad. The lodge is less than a kilometre from the gate, but don't forget you will need to pay entrance fees each time you enter the Park. www.pestana.com

This article originally appeared in the Out There Travel Guide.

"The President of the Republic of Swellendam requests all whom it may concern to allow the bearer of this passport to pass freely without let or hindrance and to afford the bearer all necessary assistance and protection."

That's how the preamble to your little green book may have started if one Hermanus Steyn had had his way.

Back in 1746 the Dutch East India Company decided they'd had enough of free burghers disappearing beyond the Breede River and failing to pay rent to the company, and the decision was made to build a Drostdy to keep the errant farmers in line. What was once a dusty dorp soon became a thriving town, and the booming settlement was named in honour of the Dutch governor at the time, Hendrik Swellengrebel, and his wife Helena ten Damme.

Unsurprisingly, the farmers weren't too charmed with the Company keeping tabs on them and in the late 1790s they – led by Hermanus himself – forced the landdrost to resign and declared the area an independent republic. That, however, lasted all of three months until the British took control of the Cape and Steyn's global ambitions were extinguished.

Thankfully, Swellendam is a far more-laid-back place these days. The Drostdy is still there, but it's now a fine country museum (www.drostdymuseum.com) filled with tourists, not truants. Period houses and delightful rose gardens also form part of the museum complex, while the Gaol that housed runaways and renegades is home to one of the best coffee shops in the Overberg.

After indulging in their signature 'roosterkoek' it's just a short wander down the hill to Schoone Oordt, a Victorian landmark at the foot of historic Swellengrebel Street. Built in 1853, Schoone Oordt (which, fittingly, translates from Dutch as 'beautiful place') has been home to school matrons and mayors, but was in a sorry state when Richard and Alison Walker discovered the property in 2003.

Four years of painstaking restoration followed, with the couple – along with friend and partner Roy Hunter – giving the magnificent manor house a new lease on life. Paint was stripped, furniture was restored and new life was breathed into this National Monument. The addition of eight guest suites and a honeymoon cottage scattered around the lush grounds has made this a charming country escape for the weekend.

Not that you need the honeymooners hide-out for a romantic weekend away. Every suite boasts a gargantuan bed decked in quality linen and a Victorian tub big enough for two. Private patios overlooking the blooming beds of roses beg for a tipple on warm summer evenings, but when there's snow on the Langeberg behind town the bedside fireplace is laid, simply waiting to be lit.
Tastefully chosen period furniture is a credit to Richard's keen eye for antiques, and further blends the suites with the Victorian manor house. Yet another small piece of history unobtrusively tucked away in the side-streets of Swellendam.
With grain silos and factories lining the N2 you could be forgiven for driving straight past Swellendam as you zoom to and from the Garden Route or Mother City, but the town is a treasure trove of architecture and next time you're passing it's well worth giving this historic heart of the Overberg the recognition it deserves. Hermanus Steyn would be pleased.

IF YOU GO…
Where it is: Swellengrebel Street, Swellendam.
Why go there: Swellendam is perhaps the most under-rated town in the Overberg, with fascinating history and fabulous restaurants. It's the perfect overnight stop on a Garden Route trip, but is close enough for a weekend getaway from Cape Town.
What it offers: Eight gorgeous guest suites and one private honeymoon cottage tucked under the trees on the banks of the Koornlands River. Rose gardens, croquet set and a Victorian pool complete the period picture.
What it's like: A little like having good friends with a magnificent country pad. Richard's eye for detail brings the suites to life, Roy is always on hand with an entertaining tale and Alison keeps a calm maternal hand on the household.
And the food: Ali's gourmet breakfasts will set you on the right foot for a day of exploring. For dinner, the town has some fantastic eateries. Try Gianni and Cristiana Minori's La Sosta for authentic Italian fare (thankfully, not a pizza in sight!), or Koornland's Restaurant for a taste of 'Cuisine du Cap'.
What there is to see on the way: Rolling hills of wheat and canola against a backdrop of rugged Cape mountains. Take R62 for an even more scenic detour.
Rates: From R550 - R850 per person sharing until 30 November, and R600 - R925 from 1 December to 30 November 2009. Low season specials valid until 31 August.
Getting there: Follow the N2 from Cape Town for 240kms. Take the second exit to Swellendam which leads you into Swellengrebel Street.
Contact: Telephone 028-514-1248 or email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it . Visit www.schooneoordt.co.za for more information and online bookings.

This article originally appeared in The Sunday Times on August 3, 2008.

Egypt; it's just an eight-hour flight away but a world apart. As the flight from Johannesburg descends into Cairo, chances are you'll have mixed emotions at the scene unfolding below. The winding streets of Africa's largest city, home to some 18 million people, are abuzz with a chaotic, frenetic energy that'll both exhaust and excite you.

Gridlocked traffic and crowded pavements aside, the city is a mesmerising maze of history and cultures. Egypt is predominantly a Muslim country, and al-Qahirah (the official name for Cairo) is home to some of the holiest sites in the Middle East. The Citadel – part palace, part fortress – was the seat of power for over 700 years and survives to this day, while the magnificent mosque of Amr Ibn al-As is the oldest in Africa.

In amongst the minarets piercing the skyline you'll be surprised to see almost as many crosses alongside the crescents. Egypt was a Christian country until 650AD, and these historic Coptic churches offer a quiet respite from the city heat.

The sprawling metropolis is unbearably hot and humid in the summer months, so plan your visit between November and April when you're more like to enjoy mild days and sunny skies. Even in winter the city can be hard work to explore though, and many visitors do little more than walk from hotel lobby to tour bus and back again. However, take to the streets in between the sightseeing and you'll soon scratch the surface of this captivating capital.

It all makes sense really. Just as the pharaohs wanted their prized possessions buried beneath layer upon layer of stone in the famous pyramids at Giza, in Cairo you'll find the real gems require a bit of effort to uncover.

The city is an intoxicating mix of east and west, and there's no better place to be assaulted by the sights and sounds than at Khan al-Khalili, one of the world's largest markets. Traders have been bargaining with buyers in these twisting alleyways for over 600 years, and this historic bazaar in the heart of Islamic Cairo has been declared a World Heritage Site. This is the place to keep your cash in your pocket and put your bargaining skills to the test for spices, perfumes and handfuls of gold trinkets to take home.

To see some trinkets that are slightly more valuable, a visit to the world-famous Egyptian Museum of Antiquities is something no visitor to Cairo should miss out on.

You could spend days exploring the 107 halls which hold the museum's astounding collection of over 120 000 artefacts from tombs across Egypt, but most visitors head straight for the Tutankhamen gallery where treasures from the tomb of the boy-king, as well as his solid-gold death mask, are on display. If the history grabs you, the statue of Khafre (more about him later) and the Royal Mummy Room are other highlights not to be missed.

If you have the time and money it's best to take a guided tour of the museum so that knowledgeable guides can put the thousands of years of history into context.

Mummies in a museum are one thing, but seeing their intended resting place is the reason most visitors come to Egypt.

The pyramids are the planet's oldest man-made tourist attraction, and although conspiracies abound that the pyramids of Giza are alien landing lights or star maps, Egyptologists agree that they were most likely burial tombs for powerful kings and pharaohs.

"…a hot and dusty day amongst the ancients…"

The Great Pyramid of Khufu (also known as Cheops) is the only ancient wonder of the world still standing, and the main attraction at Giza, just 20 kilometres away from central Cairo. This incredible monument was the tallest building in the world for over 4000 years, towering 138-metres above the sun-baked sands. With not many cranes around in 2560BC it's no surprise that it took over 20 years to assemble the Great Pyramid's two million two-ton blocks of limestone!

Flanking the Great Pyramid are the smaller tombs of Menkaure and Khafre, and Egyptologists agree that it is probably the face of Khafre on the Great Sphinx, another popular site at Giza. With the face of a man and the body of a lion, the statue is also known as 'The Father of Fear'… a fitting title for one of Egypt's greatest pharaohs.

The pyramids are easily visited on a day trip from Cairo, but in peak season be prepared to share the ancient monuments with hordes of other tourists. Camel rides, tourist stalls and annoying touts are plentiful, but ignore the hassles and soak up the history of one of the Seven Wonders of the World.

The pyramids of Giza look down towards the Nile, flowing languidly back towards Cairo, and after a hot and dusty day amongst the ancients a Nile river-cruise is the ideal way to chill out and let the chaos of the city float by. There's a wide range of cruise companies, but try and book your trip on one of the traditional feluccas. Most cruises leave around 8pm and return two hours later after a buffet dinner-cruise with voluptuous belly-dancers for entertainment!

At the end of a long day it's tempting to head back to the hotel, but when the sun goes down Cairo comes to life. Down almost any alleyway you'll see locals huddled around tables outside their local coffee house, and visitors are always welcome to pull up a chair and order a pot of freshly-brewed Arabica.

The perfect accompaniment, of course, is the traditional shisha water-pipe. No, you won't find any Durban Poison in the mix, just delicious fruit tobacco that's bubbled through water to soften the flavours and cool the smoke. With the throb of Africa's largest city surrounding you, images of ancient civilisations burned into your mind and the bubble of a shisha echoing off the alleyway, it's easy to feel like a king in the land of the pharaohs.

» Originally published in Greenside Golf World

Young South Africans' care-free days of pulling pints and earning pounds may be numbered, as the United Kingdom’s Border Agency and Home Office plans to abolish the popular Working Holidaymaker Scheme and replace it with the Youth Mobility Scheme (YMS).

This new scheme is part of the largest overhaul of UK immigration policies in 40 years, with all immigration to the UK set to be judged on a points-based system similar to the one currently used by Australia.

"The UK conducted a wide-ranging review of all of the routes for overseas nationals to come to the UK for work or study purposes," says Apsara McNaught, official spokesperson for the British High Commission. "Over 80 different routes for entering the UK are gradually being replaced with the points based system which has just five tiers."

The Home Office has not declared a final date for the switch to the Youth Mobility Scheme, but the British High Commission expects it to be in November or December this year. "The Working Holidaymaker visa category will continue to be available until the new scheme is introduced," said Ms McNaught.

"Those interested in a holidaymakers’ visa equivalent would fall into tier 5 which allows temporary workers and youth entry to the UK to satisfy non-economic objectives," says Marc Whitmill, general manager of Youth Discovery Programmes. However, it seems likely that South African travellers will not be eligible for the YMS visa.

"The Statement of Intent clearly says that countries need to meet qualifying criteria relating to the level of immigration risk posed, the country’s return arrangement policy and reciprocal opportunities for UK nationals,” says Mr Whitmill

It is this last point that's proving to be most problematic, as South Africa does not offer a working holidaymaker scheme for British (or other) nationals and Home Affairs is unlikely to institute such a system in time.

"We have explained the new scheme and criteria for countries to join," says Ms McNaught. "We await the response of the South African government."

"All things considered, it is looking very unlikely that South Africa will qualify for the new system. All young South Africans between the ages of 18 and 30 wishing to apply for a two year working holidaymakers’ visa for the UK should do so immediately,” urges Mr. Whitmill.

This sentiment was echoed by Angela Lansdell, Director of Smooth Landings Arrival Assistance: “We are recommending that anyone thinking of going on a gap year to the UK apply for their Working Holiday Visa as soon as possible. This advice extends not only to Working Holiday Visa applications, but to all immigration categories for the UK."

6936 South Africans (out of 9049 applicants) received Working Holidaymaker visas in 2007, and the visa change could have a significant impact on the youth travel market.

"Youth travellers tend to go directly to the British High Commission approved visa company," says Shannon Oddie, marketing manager for Student Flights. "But it is the flights, accommodation and side trips of this travel experience that is an integral part of our business."

"If the visa falls away we will almost certainly feel the loss of this business."

However, Sean Hough, MD of youth travel specialist STA Travel is confident the change will have little effect on their business.

"I don't think the impact is going to be that great," he says. "There are still many routes of entry into the UK, and the YMS is only designed to keep out those who want to go over and work and come back with their pockets lined with pounds, not genuine travel-gappers.

"We've gone out and looked for really good working holiday programs in other parts of the world and we've got much greater diversity of product now, and genuine gappers want that," says Mr Hough.

This article originally appeared in Travel Industry Review.

When it comes to a safari holiday in Aaaafrica (say it in a deep, James Earl Jones voice) Kenya and Tanzania often steal the… ahem… lion's share of the limelight. With their wide open savannahs, enormous herds of wildebeest thundering across the plains and alluring names like the Ngorongoro Crater it's no wonder they attract thousands of safari-seekers each year.

Although South Africa may not match them for grandeur, what we lack in size we more than make up for in diversity. From homesteads in the Cape mountains to the last-word in luxury tents and gravity-defying lodges that will take your breath (and a healthy chunk of your bank balance) away, there are idyllic wilderness areas spread across South Africa just waiting to be explored…

Western Cape
Tell anyone that you're going on a safari holiday and my bet is that the last place they'll expect you to be going is the Western Cape. More famous for its vineyards and beaches, the Western Cape is slowly building a name for itself as a great place to enjoy a wilderness – with a bit of safari thrown in – escape.

With Cape Town far and away the country's most popular tourist destination it's easy to see why visitors would far rather have their safari cake in the Cape than fly 1500-kilometres to the more famous game parks of the Lowveld. Throw in the lack of malaria, dramatic mountain scenery and a host of attractions within easy reach and it's no surprise that the province now boasts some excellent wilderness escapes. With hot sunny summers and chilly wet winters, Spring and Autumn are the 'secret season' in the Western Cape, when the weather is (usually) fine and the tourists are few and far between.

Tucked away in the far reaches of the Cederberg mountains (about 270km north of Cape Town), Bushmanskloof Wilderness Reserve & Retreat (www.bushmanskloof.com) is undoubtedly one of the Western Cape's hidden gems, although a stay here is less about the wildlife and more about the wilderness. Yes, it's a 7500-hectare private reserve and sure, it's got antelope and a selection of game… but don't expect the big five or many toothy predators, even if there are elusive Cape Mountain Leopard in these hills.

A regular highlight (especially for locals) is the annual selection of speciality weekends. Whether it's star-gazing under the crystal clear Cederberg skies, learning more about the region's diverse fynbos (the reserve is a stone's throw from the floral wonderland of the Biedouw Valley) or getting gastronomic with a Food & Wine weekend, the special breaks offer great value for money as well as another good reason to leave the big city for the big mountains.

Just over some more southerly big mountains from Cape Town (an easy 90-minute drive through the picturesque winelands) is a good place to squeeze a wildlife experience into a trip to Cape Town. The four-star Aquila Private Game Reserve (www.aquilasafari.com) offers a quick and easy way to get up close to the Big Five, with a wide variety of animals on offer, but at just 4500 hectares don't come to Aquila expecting wide open wilderness. It's a good (and affordable) spot to tick a few sightings off your list, but if you've got a few Rands to spare and are looking for that idyllic safari escape you'd do well to try the luxurious Sanbona Wildlife Reserve in the Klein Karoo.

The scenic Route 62 from Cape Town to Oudtshoorn is probably better known for its lush vineyards and quaint country towns than Big Five safaris, but when a rather large earthquake in 1969 (the same one that flattened Tulbagh) shifted the tectonic plates and turned off the springs that fed many of the fields of fruit trees between Montagu and Barrydale, the Klein Karoo reclaimed its own.

Sanbona (www.sanbona.com) has two lodges, but the historic Tilney Manor is without doubt the main attraction. Once the manor house of a thriving fruit farm dating back to the 1800s, there are just six luxurious suites on offer, so first-name service and homely hospitality is guaranteed. The manor house has comfortable lounges and a cosy dining room, but the suites are the real highlight here.
Private verandahs overlooking the vastness of the Klein Karoo, beds big enough for Jacob Zuma and all his wives, romantic free-standing baths and naughty outdoor showers make this a fantastic romantic getaway.
Given the harsh landscape you're unlikely to see large herds of game stampeding across the horizon, but the magic of Sanbona is that this is the only real Big Five reserve in the Western Cape, where the ecosystem by and large looks after itself. There are no animals in large bomas, no feeding and no tour buses pulling in for their zoofari experience.
Swing south off Route 62 and the N2 freeway will bring you to the lush foothills of the Langeberg Mountains near the town of George. Here, the Garden Route Game Lodge (www.grgamelodge.co.za) marks the entrance to South Africa's world famous Garden Route coast. This malaria-free private game reserve is home to an abundance of animal and bird life including the Big Five, and is a popular stop for visitors touring from Cape Town up the east coast.

Eastern Cape
Hop to the eastern end of the Garden Route, past Port Elizabeth, and you reach what is perhaps the fastest growing safari destination in South Africa. Since Shamwari Game Reserve first brought the Big Five experience to the Eastern Cape in 1992, the stretch of N2 between Port Elizabeth and Grahamstown has mushroomed into one of the most popular game-viewing areas in the country; a malaria-free book-end to the traditional tourist route up the Garden Route from Cape Town.



Shamwari (www.shamwari.com) certainly lays claim to having the most land given over to big game in this part of the world, but there are a host of lodges offering top-notch accommodation with decent game-viewing to boot. One of my favourites is Pumba Private Game Reserve (www.pehotels.co.za/pumba), about 75 minutes drive from PE. The Eastern Cape has never been a hotbed of chic design and innovation, but evidently the designers of Pumba Water Lodge had some brought in special.

The 12 thatched cottages all open onto their own private timber deck with outdoor shower and plunge pool just a stone's throw from the Kariega Lake. Was that a hippo in the night, or your partner snoring? You're close enough to wonder which…

The Addo Elephant National Park (www.sanparks.org/parks/addo) is also in the area, so if pachyderms are your pet favourite then you'd do well to stop by. The reserve also offers a range of self-catering accommodation to suit all pockets.

KwaZulu-Natal
Speaking of elephants, the Elephant Coast in the far northern reaches of KwaZulu-Natal is the place to zoom to for a 'beach-and-bush-safari'. There are safari lodges spread throughout Zululand and the Elephant Coast offering everything from Zulu history to scuba diving and whale-watching along with your safari getaway.

Amakhosi, in the heart of Zululand, is a pretty regal place to end up. Meaning 'Place of Kings', the lodge is situated on the banks of the Mkuze River surrounded by the 12 000ha AmaZulu Private Game Reserve and offers just six luxurious River Suites, along with two Umntwana river suites for that special romantic getaway.

A touch further north, the Greater St Lucia Wetland Park has been renamed the iSimangaliso Wetland Park to reflect the various attractions that make up this enormous World Heritage site, which include Kosi Bay, Lake Sibaya, Sodwana Bay, Mkhuze Game Reserve, Lake St Lucia, Cape Vidal and Kosi Bay.

Unless you're working on your tan, the heat of summer in KZN could see you spending your safari at the poolside to escape the heat and humidity, and with balmy weather almost year-round there's no reason to suffer in the mid-summer sun. Only mad dogs and Englishmen, remember…

There's no threat of malaria in KZN except for the far northern corner bordering Mozambique, but even that is only really a problem in the height of summer.

Limpopo & North West
Completely malaria-free is the Waterberg region of Limpopo; a wild part of the province which is proving popular as a weekend getaway for stressed out Gauties. The heart of the area is the Waterberg Biosphere, which was declared a protected area by UNESCO in 2001, and the reserves in the area are bringing conservation and eco-tourism to an area better-known for hunting farms and biltong makers.

Tucked away near Vaalwater, Ka’Ingo Private Reserve & Spa is the kind of place where you leave your airs and graces at the door. No stuck-up tourists allowed. It may be five-star, and it is part of the prestigious African Pride portfolio (www.africanpridehotels.com), but Ka'Ingo is the kind of place where kids can run on the grass (the lodge is fenced, in case you were worried) and the rangers join you for a beer after your game drive. There's no haute cuisine here either… it's potjies, barbecues and South African favourites all the way, whipped up from morning till night. It's good rib-sticking stuff that'll ward off the icy nights in Limpopo – it gets cold up here in winter, so don't be shy to pack your woollies.

Also popular as a weekend getaway from Gauteng is the Pilanesberg National Park near Sun City, where you'll find lodges such as Ivory Tree and Kwa Maritane. A little further afield, the Madikwe Game Reserve is famous for its packs of wild dogs. Also malaria-free, Madikwe covers 75 000 hectares of prime game-viewing bush where you can also expect to see Black and White Rhino, plains game and over 300 species of birds.

Kruger National Park
Last, but certainly not least, there is the Kruger National Park. Covering an area the size of Israel, Kruger is South Africa's premier game reserve. If you want to experience the diversity of the African bush, Kruger is the place to be: the reserve is home to 336 varieties of tree, 49 types of fish, 114 species of reptiles, 507 types of birds and an impressive 147 species of mammals.

Stretching some 350 kilometres from north to south, Kruger is vast and offers seemingly limitless places to stay. If you're on a budget the self-catering accommodation (everything from campsites to well-equipped cottages) run by South African National Parks is probably the best way to stretch your Rands. If you've got some cash to spoil yourself with though, the Park is your oyster.

Your first port of call should be one of the private concessions within Kruger. These are on land leased out by SANParks to private operators, and offer the best game-viewing Kruger has to offer combined with luxurious accommodation, great food and excellent guides. Because you're on a private concession you'll also get to explore off the beaten track and enjoy sightings without the traffic jams.

One of the best on offer is the Mantis Collection's luxurious Jock Safari Lodge (www.jocksafarilodge.com), boasting 12 air-conditioned suites which combine the wilderness with just a touch of elegance. Throw in romantic mozzie nets, a bottle of wine in the fridge and stylish décor and you've got the perfect honeymoon getaway. Feeling hot? No need to take a dip in the Mitomeni or Biyamiti Rivers (the lodge sits on the confluence)… your suite has a private plunge pool where you can cool off between game drives. Tired of rolling through the bushveld? Pull up a comfy chair on your private deck and watch the wildlife stroll by. This southern section of the Kruger National Park is one of the most famous game viewing areas in the world, and you won't be disappointed… especially if you want to see elephant.

Just outside the southern Malelane gate you'll also find the four-star Pestana Kruger Lodge (www.pestana.com), offering an affordable option right on the Park's doorstep. It's less than a kilometre from the gate, but you will need to pay entrance fees each time you enter the Park.

50 kilometres from the Orpen Gate you'll find the interesting Hoyo Hoyo Tsonga Lodge (www.capemilner.com/hoyo-hoyo), which offers a more cultural safari experience. Set in its own 10 000 hectare concession, a stay at the lodge combines great game viewing with intriguing suites in the form of traditional Tsonga 'beehive' huts. What's more, all fabrics, décor and objet d’art have been sourced from the local Tsonga community.

On the eastern border of the park, Singita Lebombo (and the neighbouring Singita Sweni) has exclusive traversing rights to a large chunk of the Kruger National Park and, as you'd expect, the game viewing is excellent with plains game and rhino in abundance.

The jewel in the Singita group's safari crown, each of the 15 suites at Singita Lebombo has been designed to resemble an eagle's nest, perched on the craggy cliff-tops of the Lebombo Mountains on the border with Mozambique. A five-star eagle with impeccable taste who likes their home comforts in jaw-dropping style, that is. A stay at Singita Lebombo (www.singita.com) is not cheap by any means, but it is certainly worth every cent… this is one of those 'before-I-die' places to add to your list.

If that's a little rich for your blood, the private reserves bordering Kruger offer similar luxury with slightly less damage to your credit card.

There are a number of private reserves which share borders with Kruger, many of which have dropped fences between their property and the park which means that the game-viewing is as good as in Kruger itself. Except you have the whole place to yourself. And you see more animals. And your ranger will point out a hundred things you've just missed on the side of the road. And, after all that, you have a lovely lodge to come back to.

One of my favourites is Ngala Private Game Reserve (www.ngala.co.za) whose tented camp on the banks of the Timbavati River offers the tent to end all tents. A tent with lofty canvas ceilings, elephantine bed, wicker armchairs on the porch, flickering paraffin lamps winking hello after dinner and an outdoor shower simply made for watching heavenly bodies. Stars… I mean.

The Ngala (which means 'lion' in Shangaan) reserve itself is a modest 14 000ha, but with fences dropped with the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve to the West and Kruger to the East, it’s as diverse as if you were in the National Park.

The Timbavati is one of the most famous private reserves in the country and is home to a wide selection of excellent lodges. For somewhere that's child-friendly, try the Gomo Gomo Game Lodge (www.gomogomo.co.za) built on the banks of the Nhlaralumi River, which offers five fully-furnished thatched chalets and four East African-style luxury tents in the shade of age-old Jackalberry and Leadwood trees. South of the Timbavati, the Sabi Sand is another well-known private reserve famous for its excellent game-viewing, where you'll find lodges such as Elephant Plains, Leopard Hills, Ulusaba and the iconic Londolozi,

Whether it's mountainous or malaria-free, bushveld or by the beach, South Africa's vast range of safari getaways means you'll never have to leave the country to enjoy some of the best wildlife safaris the world has to offer.

» This article originally appeared in travelideas magazine.

There are few things in the bush more frightening than the spectacle of an enraged elephant matriarch. More than once an over-zealous game ranger has, in the interests of showing safari-goers a good time, landed my Land Rover slap-bang in the middle of a breeding herd when the ever-present matriarch decides enough is enough and shows us the way out. At speed! With flapping ears amid a cloud of red dust, motherly love has never looked so malevolent.

Elephant cows are perhaps the perfect matriarchs; immensely strong in both body and spirit, ever-present and soft of touch for loved ones, but willing to do almost anything to protect their family. A tower of stability in an otherwise chaotic world.

Not unlike one Hester Catherina Vermaak, another great matriarch of the Eastern Cape. Hester who? We'll get to her in a second.

If you want to see elephants, particularly without the risk of malaria, the Eastern Cape's Addo Elephant National Park is the place to be. Less than an hour from Port Elizabeth, the park has been a sanctuary for elephants (the local farmers were none too keen on them damaging their crops) since it was proclaimed in 1931. Back then a mere 11 pachyderms remained, but today the herds have returned once more and the families of Loxodonta Africana have prospered thanks to migration, a safe place to settle and the help of some motherly love. Again, not unlike old Hester Catherina Vermaak.

So who was Hester?

Born in the Free State in 1841, she arrived in the Eastern Cape in 1854 as the young bride (she was just 13) of Thomas Anthony Mueller Vermaak; a kind and prosperous farmer on land known as Gorah; the Khoi Khoi word for 'spring'.

Gorah was one of the wealthiest farms in the district, due to both hard work and the boom in ostrich feathers, and prospered through the years under the firm hand of Hester. Known far and wide for her lavish parties and warm hospitality, she has long been known as the legendary matriarch of the Gorah.

Unable to have children of her own, her motherly instincts prompted her to adopt a niece and even an orphan from Victorian London. The years passed, the family bloomed and when Hester passed away in 1915 her adoptive niece Blanche Crozier took over as the grand lady of Gorah.

Life was not always easy though, as influenza and drought swept the region killing both husbands and profitable farms and leaving widows homeless in their wake. As the tendrils of World War II stretched even to the rolling hills of Addo, Blanche was forced to leave the farm and the family's connection to Gorah was lost.

Gorah was sold and bought, and then sold again, as a succession of farmers and their stoic wives tried in vain to eke a living from the hills, but the land was having none of it, and eventually the Gorah was incorporated into the Addo Elephant National Park and the grand farmhouse of Hester Vermaak fell to ruin.

Until 1998 that is, when Ian Hunter's group of hotels were given a concession – the first private concession ever awarded in a South African National Park – to run a lodge in the park. Despite searching for a location to build a brand new lodge, Ian was always drawn back to the original farmhouse; a grand old lady fallen on hard times looking for a saviour. And so, the Gorah Elephant Camp was born.

Today it is one of South Africa's top safari lodges, tucked amidst 14 000 hectares of lush Eastern Cape bushveld in the shadow of the Zuurberg mountains. Gorah’s 11 luxurious tented suites recall the golden era of safari, albeit updated with a few 21st century conveniences!

Apart from the luxurious accommodation, fine dining and opportunity to spot an array of wildlife weird and wonderful, the highlight for guests at the five-star Gorah Elephant Camp is their time spent in the farmhouse that Hester called home. Originally built in 1856, the Gorah House is a National Monument and has since been fully restored to reflect the elegant period furnishings that guests at Hester Vermaak's hunting parties and grand soirees would have enjoyed.

Hester's gravestone lies not far from the house she called home for over 60 years, and on nights when her old stomping ground is bathed in the light of a full moon there are often elephants to been seen lingering nearby, grumbling gently to each other as if in greeting. Elephant graveyards are said to be the stuff of legend, but clustered together in the pale lunar light, it's almost as if today's matriarchs of Gorah are watching over the strong women of years gone by.

• For more information visit www.hunterhotels.com or call Hunter Hotels on 044 501 1111. Much of the historical information above is from Nicola Schwimm's fascinating 'Elephant Footprints - A Photographic Journal of the Gorah Elephant Camp'.