Southern Mozambique has long been popular with self-drive South African tourists, but local travellers are now discovering the idyllic islands and pristine beaches of our neighbour's northern reaches.

South Africans "are looking for new and unique experiences and have heard about the beautiful, undiscovered and less crowded nature of the north," says Fiona Record, co-founder of tour operator Mozambique Travel.

The region is proving popular with both leisure and corporate travellers, and is even seeing a boom as travellers tighten their purse strings.

"With the current downturn we have seen an increase in interest in domestic and regional products, which includes Mozambique," says Wendy Goutier, Thompsons Holidays Product & Contract Executive, Indian Ocean Islands.

The town of Pemba is the gateway to the region, which includes the magnificent Quirimbas Archipelago, and is served by both Airlink and Linhas Aéreas de Moçambique (LAM).

"Airlink launched the direct service on 24 March 2007, departing every Tuesday and Saturday," says Karin Murray, Marketing Manager for Airlink. "From Jan 2009 we will reduce the service to Saturdays only due to the low season and low demand up to March 2009."

Despite the current low demand, the direct flight has certainly boosted visitor numbers.

"We estimate a 30 percent increase in arrivals since the inception of Airlink's direct flight," says Michèle Abraham, Marketing Manager for Rani Resorts. "Pemba is steadily increasing in popularity for both corporate (business and groups/incentive) and leisure travellers from South Africa."

So what is the attraction of this region some three hours flight from Johannesburg?

"Mozambique is well known for its pristine beaches and romantic island style hotels and Pemba is no exception," enthused Ms Goutier.

The range of quality accommodation on offer is certainly a major draw card, says Carien van den Berg, General Manager of Flame of Africa: "The hotels that operate in the area are renowned for their superb service and cater for a broad base of travellers from groups and incentives straight through to honeymooners."

Luxury accommodation in an unspoiled tropical location is the main attraction of the region, although there are also cultural attractions, dhow cruises and a range of watersports to keep clients busy.

There is certainly more to the area than lying on a beach, says Ms Record. The activities on offer "include community tourism at Nkwichi and Guludo Lodge; snorkelling and world class cuisine at Londo Lodge; scuba diving at Medjumbe Island and game fishing at Vamizi Island."

Paradise beaches, plentiful seafood and luxury lodges. Sounds like paradise… so what's the downside? Well, the region is mainly geared for the upper-end of the market, with luxury hotels and air transfers standard for most visitors.

"By no means is it a 'cheap' destination, but then you are guaranteed exclusivity and for the discerning traveller that is ideal," says Ms van den Berg.

However, "there are currently some extremely attractive specials in the marketplace," says Ms Record, "and it is important to understand that the north and in particular the Quirimbas Archipelago has been Africa's secret for the last few years.

"It is sought after for its pristine nature, conservation and community-oriented tourism developments that offer discerning visitors the luxury of space."

» This article was originally published in Travel Industry Review, February 2009

I was never very good at Twister. I just never seemed to be able to contort my body into the unnatural reef knots that the spinning arrow and multi-coloured tablecloth demanded. However, after an hour-and-a-half with Kong I'm certain I could put those double-jointed Mongolian circus twins to shame.

With arms as strong as his demeanour is gentle, and the flexibility of Angelina Jolie on a good Tomb Raider day, Kong is perhaps the best Thai masseuse west of Chiang Mai, his hometown in northern Thailand.

From the hill tribes of Chiang Mai to the horsey-set of the Natal Midlands; Kong is one of six Thai massage therapists brought over to twist, contort, crack and destress highly-strung city-dwellers who make the wise decision to chill out at Karkloof Spa in the green, green hills outside Pietermaritzburg.

As a region, the area is perhaps not as sexy as the North Coast or Garden Route, but as soon as you turn in the gates of Karkloof you might as well call me Adam.
With its lush landscapes stretching up into the valleys, delicious food (not mere apples) on offer at every turn and dozens of Eves offering every spa treatment known to man this is a Garden of Eden wild horses couldn't drag me away from.

However, it's not wild horses you'll find roaming the 3500 hectares of Karkloof. In addition to the spa Karkloof is a private nature reserve that's stocked with animals great and small, from rhino to warthog and almost everything in between. The only thing you won't find here are elephant and big cats, which means it's safe to explore parts of the reserve (which are kept free of buffalo and rhino) on foot or mountain bike.

If wild and woollies sound simply too daunting the 17 treatment rooms and army of therapists make Karkloof one of the largest destination spas in South Africa, where you can steam yourself serene before indulging in a range of treatment 'journeys'. The Thai massage is, however, the main attraction and one not to be missed.

After Kong has limbered you up for the Twister World Championships with a 90-minute traditional Thai massage you'll be hard-pressed to do more than amble off to the spa's 'Tranquility Lounge' to contemplate the verdant Karkloof Valley.

With green hills rolling to the horizon and the 105-metre Karkloof Falls rumbling away in the distance, the view is – to steal a phrase from a man born not far from here – lovely beyond any singing of it.

A visit to Karkloof is certainly not your usual Big Five safari escape, but an agreeable blend of game viewing, spa treatments, fine living and the great outdoors.

IF YOU GO…
Where it is: Twenty-four kilometres outside Pietermaritzburg
Why go there: Apart from enjoying the best Thai massage in the country, it's a retreat where your time is your own. Dine, spa, explore and relax on your own terms. There are no hard-and-fast schedules and 'what-you-want-when-you-want-it' is the name of the game.
What it offers: One of South Africa's top spa retreats. Apart from the 17 therapy rooms and bevy of therapists, there's an extensive hydro-area offering everything from hot-and-cold Kneipp pools to saunas and Roman Baths. Sixteen spacious villas dot the hillside below the spa, offering gorgeous views of the Karkloof valley from every angle.
What it's like: Luxurious, without being pretentious. The down-to-earth owners ensure there's enough extravagance for a pampering weekend away, without going over the top.
And the food: Outstanding. Indulge in the chef's gourmet creations, or stick with the regular raw food option which proves detoxing doesn't have to be deadly boring. The impressive wine cellar offers some of South Africa's top vintages… you'll be spoilt for choice.
Rates: R3990 per person per night sharing, fully inclusive of all meals and beverages. This also includes a complimentary 60-minute massage voucher on arrival, use of the spa during your stay and one game drive/walk daily.
Getting there: Follow the N3 to Pietermaritzburg and take Exit 81 towards Greytown. Turn left into Otto's Bluff Road and follow this for 20-kilometres. After Morton's Drift, look out for the Karkloof Spa sign to your left.
Contact: Visit www.karkloofspa.com to find out more, or call 033 569 1321. You can also email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .

LOCAL ATTRACTION
Once you're settled at Karkloof you won't want to leave, so make the most of your time on the property with a trip to the Karkloof Falls. Tucked in a quiet corner of the reserve, the area is safe to explore on foot or bike and you can even pack a picnic and spend the day at one of the scenic viewpoints. A wooden walkway has been built over the slippery sandstone boulders allowing you to wander to within the spray from the Falls.

In season you can cast a line for Yellowfish further downstream in the Karkloof River; on a catch-and-release basis of course. Or lace up your walking shoes and take a stroll through the dense forests where Knysna Loeries hide in the shadows. Make sure you pack the binoculars… over 300 species of birds have been identified on the reserve, including the Bronze-Naped Pigeon unique to the area.

» Originally published in the Sunday Times, December 7 2008.

"Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats."
Kenneth Grahame may have written 'The Wind in the Willows' nearly a century ago, but his touching tale of Toad, Mole and Rat taking to the water in search of adventure and good times is as inspiring today as it was back then.

But the sailors taking to the waters of Table Bay this December to compete in two of South Africa's premier yachting regattas are going to be doing more than simply messing about in their boats.

From the fun-filled CROCS Summer Regatta in and around Table Bay to a downwind dash across the South Atlantic Ocean, there is bound to be high adventure on the high seas in Cape Town this summer.

The Cape of Good Hope has a rich nautical history, dating back to 1652 when Jan van Riebeeck established a refreshment station here for passing ships of the Dutch East India Company. In those early days the sailors could rest, restock and take shelter from the howling Southeaster – nowadays affectionately known as 'The Cape Doctor' - which whips across the Cape Flats in summer and turns Table Bay into a sea of white-caps.

And in 350 years not much has changed: the strong seasonal winds still put sailors to the test, and the welcome on dry land is as warm as it was back then. No wonder the city is also known as the Tavern of the Seas!

"Sail hard, Party hard." That's what the CROCS Summer Regatta is all about, says Ron Keytel, Sailing Officer at Royal Cape Yacht Club. Based on the Caribbean's popular Antigua Week, the CROCS Summer Regatta will showcase the magnificent sailing on offer in and around Table Bay.

Unlike the round-the-buoys sailing of the famous Lipton Cup "the emphasis is on longer races to actual places," says Keytel. One day will see the fleet racing towards the sparkling waters and glistening beaches of Clifton (covered, as usual, with glistening sun-tanners), while other courses will be out towards Robben Island, where former president Nelson Mandela spent 18 years behind bars, or ending in the popular V&A Waterfront.

Wherever the yachts are headed, the magnificent skyline of Table Mountain will be the backdrop to four days of competitive yachting in the chilly waters of Table Bay.

Rob Meek, the Organising Chairman, says that up to 70 boats are expected to enter the regatta, making for exciting racing.

"Between our local and overseas yachts we have a range of entries from racing boats to more sedate cruisers, but the regatta is really about exploring the corners of Table Bay.

"However, last year we arrived at Clifton in the pouring rain to find the beach completely deserted. Even our welcoming party of bikini girls had left, so this year we're hoping for warmer weather!"

While the (hopefully) sunny skies and short courses of the CROCS Summer Regatta will make for enjoyable day-racing, the hardened yachties on the quaysides of Cape Town are also gearing up for one of the world's most famous blue-water regattas: The Governor's Cup.

"The Governor's Cup is an exciting 1700-mile summer ocean race from Cape Town to James Bay on St. Helena Island," says Andrew McKenzie, Vice Chairman of the False Bay Yacht Club, which organises the race. "Entrants typically range from fast racing boats with experienced crews to cruising boats manned by small families."

Famous for its stunning sub-tropical landscapes and as the final resting place of Napoleon Bonaparte, St. Helena is a paradise in the South Atlantic only accessible by sea. The supply ship RMS St. Helena sails from Cape Town to the island roughly every four weeks, and accompanies the fleet to the island, but if you haven't booked a berth then a yacht is your only ticket to the island of Saints!

Held every two years since 1996 The Governor's Cup isn't always plain-sailing though.

In 2006 the fleet was hit by a fierce cold front on the first night out of Cape Town. "Cold, wet and seasick" is how many of the crew described themselves, says McKenzie. Which brings to mind the sailors' adage: "For the first hour that you're seasick you feel like you're going to die. After that you're worried you won't!"

So what's the attraction in spending 10 days at sea getting damp and delirious, you might ask?

While the cut-glass trophy donated by the Governor of St. Helena in 1996 is incentive enough, Petr Muzik, who won the Cruising class on his yacht 'Shoestring' in 2004, reckons that the race is quite simply a life-changing event.

"St Helena will blow you away with its charm and hospitality. The sail there is idyllic in the South East Trades and the 1650-odd miles will bring back happy memories for years to come."

Warm island hospitality is just one of the attractions of sailing in The Governor's Cup.

In a previous race the organisers were alarmed when one yacht veered a long way off the conventional course to the island. Was it storms or sickness that had pushed the yacht out into the Atlantic? No, it turned out that the crew were all keen anglers and wanted to try their luck on the Vema Seamount in the South Atlantic!

From day-sailors to salty sea dogs, it's not hard to see the attraction of "messing about in boats", but as one weathered sailor on the quayside of False Bay Yacht Club remarked recently: "A yacht race is really just an excuse to go sailing".

True words indeed, and the Governor's Cup and CROCS Summer Regatta are as good an excuse as any to enjoy a few days (or weeks!) on the water this summer.

The Governor's Cup starts in Table Bay at 2pm on 29 December. Visit www.thegovernorscuponline.com to find out more.

The CROCS Summer Regatta takes place from 13-16 December in Table Bay. Visit the website of the Royal Cape Yacht Club at www.rcyc.co.za

» This article was originally published in Sawubona , the in-flight magazine of South African Airways.

Selecting an appropriate holiday read is perhaps one of the most important parts of my pre-trip preparation. Richard Dawkins' discussion on the hereafter made good reading in Hindu-heavy Bali, AA Gill kept me company on the Danube and Gregory David Roberts' 'Shantaram' (largely fictitious though it may be) is unbeatable on a long-haul flight.

But for a long weekend on the languid Breede River, glass of wine in hand and canoe tugging gently at the jetty? Well, it's hard to beat 'The Wind in the Willows': a classic celebration of life's simple joys; good food, friendship and the beauties of nature.

So with a well-thumbed early edition of Kenneth Grahame's 1908 classic tucked safely between the bottle opener and the braai-broodjies we tackled the road to Bonnievale on a busy Friday morning.

"After all," says Mole, "the best part of being on holiday is perhaps not so much to be resting yourself, as to see all the other fellows busy working."

Bonnie-where I hear you ask? Well, that's exactly the point.

The Breede River valley has become a popular destination for Capetonians and up-country wanderers alike, thanks in no small part to the marketing of Route 62 through the winelands to Oudtshoorn. But while the wine-tasting day-trippers converge on Robertson to gorge themselves on the area's delicious reds, anyone with more time on their hands would do well to keep going for an extra 20 minutes to the 'dorpie' of Bonnievale.

Hang a right at Robertson and follow the Breede most of the way into town: a "sleek, sinuous full-bodied animal, chasing and chuckling, gripping things with a gurgle and leaving them with a laugh… all was a-shake and a-shiver – glints and gleams and sparkles."

Through the dusty main street, past the obligatory NG steeple and out the other side of town brings you, after a pasture and vineyard or two, to the wonderfully named Peet-se-Plek.

The 'peet-oom' (godfather) has since passed on down the river, but the cottages on Jan and Maretha van der Merwe's farm Merwespont are still very much a family affair.

Peet's is a simple place; comfortable enough for a country bolthole and with few frills to push up the price. Besides, you'll spend most of your time outdoors on the wooden deck overlooking the river. The deck faces west, the braai faces west, the view of the vineyards stretches to the horizon. Do you need any more reasons to be here at sunset?

It was so very beautiful that the Mole could only hold up both fore-paws and gasp, "O my! O my! O my!"

"But isn't it a bit dull at times?" the Mole ventured to ask. "Just you and the river, and no one else to pass a word with?"

Well, your days can be as half-empty or half-full as you like. If watching the river head seawards is a little sedate, the cottage has its own canoe for a leisurely paddle or you can cast a line for Black Bass, Eel and Carp. The river is teeming with them. Allegedly.

The valley is also home to 10 wine estates and two major cheese producers so it's no wonder the brochure proclaims it "the valley of cheese and wine."

It's typical of this laid-back corner of the winelands. Low on glitz and marketing-speak and big on the simple country way of life. It's an ideal getaway for anyone looking for a quiet escape that will, with any luck, remain unchanged forever; like the wind in the willows.

IF YOU GO…
Where it is: Outside Bonnievale, off the R317.
Why go there: Live out your Huckleberry Finn fantasies at this tucked away riverside escape. Just you, the braai tongs and Old Man Breede.
What it offers: Beds for six people in three bedrooms. Small kitchen and indoor braai for those occasional rainy days, but in summer you'll live out on the deck. There's a small patch of grass too, but keep an eye on small kids as there's a steep slope down to the river.
What it's like: More like Water Rat's comfy cottage than the palatial Toad Hall, but perfect for those who prefer character over mod-cons.
And the food: It's self-catering all the way, although Heidi at the Merwestein Farm Kitchen next door can whip up a no-nonsense dinner of old Cape favourites on request.
What there is to see on the way: The vineyards of R62 are your oyster. Take a slow (and sober, with a designated driver!) wander through the vinous delights of the Robertson wineries. For a round trip back to Cape Town head home on the N2.
Rates: A bargain at just R100 per person per night, with a minimum of R400 for the cottage. For long weekends the minimum tariff is R600/cottage/night.
Getting there: Follow the N1 and R60 to Robertson. Turn onto the R317 for 36 kilometres and follow the signs. Or call for directions.
Contact: Telephone 023 616 3151 or email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it . Visit www.peet-se-plek.co.za for more information.

LOCAL ATTRACTION
It may be overshadowed by the local NG Kerk, but the story behind the Norman-style Mary Myrtle Rigg Church makes it well-worth a visit. Her father, Christopher Forrest Rigg, was a successful businessman and landowner who laid the foundations for the present-day town of Bonnievale.
As Myrtle lay dying of meningitis in 1911 she asked her father to build her a church so that Bonnievale would be considered a 'proper' town. Her grief-stricken father kept his promise and in 1921 the small church was built of local sandstone in her favourite playground, a lucerne field near her home where she lay buried.
The modest church boasts stained glass windows from England, an Italian marble floor and a door shipped in from Zanzibar. Keep an eye out for the statue of Mary Myrtle at the entrance. In the background is a rose tree with seven roses, depicting the seven years of her life. Ask for keys and direction at the tourist information bureau (023 616 3563) in the Main Road.

» This article originally appeared in the Sunday Times, 9 November 2008.

At first I thought I'd been fooled. I had spent the best part of the day flying from Cape Town to experience the Okavango Delta; a lush landscape of rivulets and hippo pools where Red Lechwe and Sitatunga leap from the grasslands sending cascades of water into the humid sub-tropical air.

But this? This dry, dusty landscape falling away below us? Surely this couldn't be the world-famous Okavango Delta?

The view from our Airvan as we bounced our way across the thermals toward Xudum airstrip was of a desiccated land, parched at the end of a long dry winter.

But as they say, patience is a virtue and before long the landscape began to change, little by little transforming into the green sea of water, grassland and termite islands I'd been expecting.

You see, the Okavango Delta is a land in constant flux. From May to August the floods arrive from the highlands of Angola, spreading the watery tendrils of the Delta as for south as the tourist hub of Maun. Nope, contrary to what you may think, it's not the heavy summer rains that form the famous floodplain, but the meandering waters of the Okavango River flowing from their source 1600-kilometres away to empty into the world's largest inland delta.

During this time the water, and the wildlife, is spread far and wide until the rivers start to dry up in summer. From December to March the rains arrive, soaking the landscape and providing welcome relief from the heat for animals human or otherwise. As the rains peter out in April and May the floods begin to trickle southwards again, marking the best time to visit the Delta.

As some wise man once said, the only thing that's constant is change. I wonder if he'd visited the Delta?

There are few better places to witness this change first-hand than Xudum Delta Lodge, one of two lodges in the Okavango recently built by respected safari operator &Beyond (formerly known as CC Africa).

Situated on a permanent channel of the Delta, Xudum is frequently marooned by the floodwaters, providing an exciting entrance for guests as the only way to or from the lodge is by boat!

As the waters recede though the lodge becomes an island in a sea of grassland; oceans of tawny Turpentine Grass wave in the wind, perfectly camouflaging the tawny cats that stalk these plains. Red Lechwe are common in these parts, as are zebra, giraffe and large herds of buffalo, all of which you'll get to meet on daily game drives.

Well-trained rangers – CC Africa boasts some of the best in Africa – bring the landscape to life, and when the big five are hiding you can rely on guides like Ona and Basha to point out a myriad of fascinating plant and bird life that your careless city eyes failed to spot.

When you're exploring a sea of grass it seems fitting to have a wooden cabin to return to. The nine luxurious safari suites at Xudum are built entirely of wood and make the most of the outstanding vistas stretching out over the reed beds. Deep baths, billowing mosquito nets and a romantic roof-top day bed make this the perfect honeymoon escape.

While Xudum enjoys a sea of grasses, its sister lodge a short boat ride away offers a different experience altogether.

Situated on its own private island, Xaranna Tented Camp is cut off by water almost all-year round. Now before you scream 'Robinson Crusoe!' and have images of talking to your own private Wilson à la Tom Hanks, remember that when CC Africa does a tent on an island it is the canvas dream to end all those teenage camping nightmares. This is one island you would happily be marooned on!

Elephantine beds, alfresco showers and yet another heavenly day bed complement the quirky decor that make this camp ideal for the design-conscious younger traveller. Sure, you might need to save your pennies for awhile, but for that once-in-a-lifetime Delta experience it's worth the chunk of change it'll cost you to spend the night in one of the nine intimate suites.

At Xaranna the water confronts you at every turn. Each group of guests is assigned a ranger and tracker to make your Delta dreams come true. Mokoro rides are on tap and are the perfect way to get up close and personal with the landscape.

Keep a keen eye out for Painted Reed Frogs (the tip is to look near the top), have your binoculars handy for Fish Eagles and African Jacanas or just sit back and enjoy the gentle swish of the traditional canoe through the reeds. Oh yes, and try not to remember that you're poling along the same channels the notoriously grumpy hippo use to wander the Delta. Luckily the oversized herbivores stick to the pools during the day and only go a' wandering at night.

Ambling along on a mokoro seem all too sedate? There are speedboat safaris, fishing trips and game drives to enjoy that'll get your pulse going.

Whether you're kicking back with a G&T in your private sala or admiring the evening glow from your sundowner stop on a private island, the ever-flowing waters of the Okavango Delta will keep you entertained one way or the other.

Visit www.andbeyond.com to find out more about Xudum and Xaranna, or call +27 11 809 4300.

» This article originally appeared in Indwe, the in-flight magazine of SA Express airlines.