12 Oct |
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On the one hand – the left, if you’re heading south – there is the tempestuous Indian Ocean. Whipped into frenzy by a winter cold front it’s wild and untamed, and it’s easy to see why hundreds of ships have foundered here over the centuries, their hulls ripped to splinters on the sharp rocks below.  On the other side, the road is bordered by that most ghastly of South African invention. The Holiday House. More than a few are evidently ‘self-designed’ by proud owners with Norman Foster delusions, and the houses of L’Agulhas are by and large a blight on the landscape. If only a building code had been drawn up before the face-brick and plate glass brigade moved in, the town may have been a prettier sight. As the winding road follows the coastline from the sleepy dorp of Struisbaai –home to the longest white sand beach south of the equator, and yellowtail capital of the world, I’m reliably told – I’m split between admiration for the pounding sea, and derision for the pox of boxy holiday houses. Thankfully though, there is one building in L’Agulhas that is striking enough to erase all of its neighbours’ sins. Built of sandstone, which is weathering away at an alarming rate, and modelled on the famous light of Pharos in Ancient Egypt the Cape Agulhas lighthouse is easily one of the most beautiful structures on the entire South African coastline. Built in 1848 the light came 360 years too late for Bartholomeu Dias, the Portuguese explorer who sailed past here in 1488 and named it L’Agulhas; The Needles. Opinion is still divided as to whether it was for the razor-sharp rocks or reports of compass needless going haywire as they rounded the southern tip of Africa, but today ships stay well offshore to avoid the rough seas of the shallow Agulhas Banks. One thing’s for sure though; every five seconds throughout the night a comforting light cuts through the darkness to mark the treacherous southern tip of Africa. Navigation aside, the lighthouse has become one of the region’s most popular tourist attractions. A paltry R15 gets you access into the small museum, but more importantly it leads you to the steps heading heavenwards. Claustrophobics and vertigo-sufferers might want to think twice before ascending, but the view from the gantry surrounding the light is certainly worth conquering a few fears. Besides, you can always soothe those frayed nerves with a cuppa in the cosy restaurant below. The Lighthouse Restaurant has some lovely home-baked goodies for elevenses, but is equally a cosy spot for dinner, especially on a wintry evening with rain lashing the windows to make you feel like a real lighthouse-keeper. A short walk from the lighthouse you’ll find the town’s other main attraction; the southern tip of Africa. The end of the continent it may be, but it’s little more than a rocky windswept point popular with fishermen and there’s not much to keep you here once you’ve taken the obligatory photo with a foot in each ocean. Rather hop back into your car and drive a short distance along the coast to the start of the Rasperpunt Hiking Trail. It’s a leisurely five-kilometre walk that traverses the coastline before looping inland and back to the starting point at the wreck of the Meisho Maru 38, which ran aground here in 1982. Maps are available from the lighthouse information office, and anyone who’s reasonably fit can handle the trail that leads you past unique coastal fynbos, Stone Age fish traps and Khoi shell middens. If you’re more hedonist than hiker you’ll certainly be glad to hear that the flat Agulhas Plain which stretches for dozens of kilometres inland is also home to some of South Africa’s newest wineries. Sea breezes and consistently low temperatures have made this a popular spot for growing cool climate grapes, from Sauvignon Blanc to the notoriously pernickety Pinot Noir. While a number of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek wineries are now sourcing white wine grapes from the region, there is also a handful of wineries growing, fermenting and bottling their wines in the region. Strandveld Vineyards is one of the most successful wineries in the area, producing a handful of award-winning vintages just four years after a run-down sheep and wheat farm was ploughed over and carpeted with vines. The fruits of those vines provide winemaker Conrad Vlok with the raw materials for his range that’s spread across two labels, both heavy on the whites. First Sighting is the more accessible (read, more affordable) range; with the highlight being a Chardonnay Semillon Viognier blend which all comes together rather nicely. The more upmarket Strandveld line includes the award-winning Adamastor; a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon named after a mythological titan of the sea that would wreck sailors daring to round Cape Agulhas. Perhaps fitting for the brave winemakers daring to plant vines in this windswept place. They’re hardly the first pioneers to settle here though. The Moravian mission village of Elim, a short drive from the cellar, dates back to 1824 and has changed little since then. Famous for its skilled thatchers who find work across the globe, it’s a colourful village well suited to wandering. That said, you might enjoy it all the more if you call the tourism office (028 482 1806) beforehand to arrange a guided tour of the village with its old mill wheel and impressive church. While the longest, oldest and brightest are certainly to be found in this southern corner of the country, when it comes to somewhere to stay I’ve always found myself going back to basics. With no electricity, a donkey-boiler for hot water, a rainwater tank to top up your whisky and only lamplight to play cards by, Langrug Lodge may not be for everyone, but when it comes to a bit of peace and quiet on the empty Agulhas plains it’s hard to beat. Standing alone on the banks of Soetendalsvlei, the largest natural freshwater lake in South Africa, there’s outstanding bird watching to keep you busy, but I usually find little time for that in between a full schedule of staring at the horizon. Lush pastures (well, in winter at least) stretch for kilometres and there’s hardly another soul in sight. It’s the ideal place to catch up with old friends, dive into that book you’ve been saving or find some peace and quiet with your other half. “A little peace of Africa” is exactly what owner Jenny Uys says of her lovingly restored farm cottage. The seas nearby may be anything but peaceful, but as the sun sets over the vlei and a flock of endangered Blue Cranes flaps noisily overhead, I reckon she’s coined it just right. Perhaps this is the most peaceful spot in Africa. Even if you do have to travel to the end of the continent to find it. Useful info
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