There was only one road, not two. It didn’t really diverge, so much as meander ponderously up the northern side of the valley. But there was a yellow wood, many small glades of yellowwoods, in fact. In the bright autumn sunshine, long I stood and looked down the path as far as I could.
Unlike Robert Frost though I could see to the end, for this path didn’t bend in the undergrowth but led ever upwards to the magnificent massif above me. Five kilometres wide, nearly one thousand metres from base to summit, and home to the world’s fourth-highest waterfall (the Tugela plunges 614 metres, if you must know), the wall of basalt known as the Amphitheatre is – quite simply – spectacular.
And all the more so, now that the clouds that had shrouded it for the past three days had the good grace to lift for our only day of wandering in the Royal Natal National Park.
Day walks abound in this, the most popular section of the Ukhahlamba-Drakensberg World Heritage Site, but for first-timers like myself there is really only one to consider: the Tugela Gorge. Wandering up the valley for 11-kilometres, the path offers spring flowers, rolling hills of grassland that are beautiful beyond writing, pockets of Yellowwood forest, stands of bright red KwaZulu-Natal Bottlebrush and, finally, fantastic views of the spectacular Amphitheatre.
Along the way there are waterfalls to stand under, caves to scramble through, ladders to clamber up and crystal-clear river pool to skinny-dip in… just watch out for fellow walkers!
It’s one of the finest days I’ve ever spent in the mountains, and I was sorry to leave. The clouds were building again and it was time to seek shelter. The hills around the Park are filled with sprawling hotels and self-catering cottages, but we’d chosen the playfully named Catfish Caterpillar Cookhouse.
Built early last century out of rough-hewn sandstone by renowned local stonemason Otto Zunckel, the Cookhouse was built to last, with thick stone walls to keep the heat in and the chilly winter nights out. Three large St. Bernard’s are on hand to welcome trail-weary travellers who usually head straight to the cosy pub for a pint or two.
Me, I chose to use the last rays of day to wander to the edge of the Oliviershoek Pass for one last glimpse of dragon’s back. As the sun hid behind the Amphitheatre to bathe the Free State in its final glow, I looked out over the Royal Natal National Park and felt sure, not doubting, that I should ever come back. Following that path has, indeed, made all the difference.
IF YOU GO…
Where it is: On the crest of the Oliviershoek Pass, overlooking the sweep of the northern Drakensberg.
Why go there: It’s a great base for exploring the Royal Natal National Park and surrounding areas. Thick stone walls and creaky wooden floors speak the history of this old trading store. The Golden Gate National Park and the arty town of Clarens are an hour’s drive away if you want a change of scenery
What it offers: Seven non-smoking rooms in a mix of doubles and twins with a bath or shower, along with a family suite that sleeps four. A Jetmaster keeps the communal lounge cosy when the winter snows arrive, but on balmy evenings the Adirondack chairs on the stoep, or the garden gazebo, are the places to enjoy your sundowners.
What it's like: A cosy, but quiet guesthouse where you’ll spend your days exploring and your nights by the fire. A convivial pub comes complete with board games and upright piano for festive evenings. There are a few rough edges, and it’s a little close to the road, but for the price it’s a value-for-money getaway.
And the food: A small menu scribbled on the blackboard each evening. Fresh Drakensberg trout is a popular permanent feature, in between steaming pastas fit for hungry hikers and slabs of pan-fried rump steak. Not many frills, but hearty home cooking. The wine-list has bagged a few awards, but some vintages may be out of stock. Best to simply go and explore the small cellar.
Rates: From R360 per person sharing, bed-and-breakfast. Lunch and dinner are a la carte.
Getting there: Turn off the N3 at Harrismith and follow signs for R712. Before the Sterkfontein Dam turn left onto the R74 towards Bergville. The Cookhouse is 23-kilometres further on, at the top of the Oliviershoek Pass.
Contact: Visit www.cookhouse.co.za or call 087 940 6860/1.
First published in the Sunday Times, May 2010
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Or just a sign of commercialism heading south? Refuse to shop at Melissa's nowadays: overpriced and average
