At first I thought I'd been fooled. I had spent the best part of the day flying from Cape Town to experience the Okavango Delta; a lush landscape of rivulets and hippo pools where Red Lechwe and Sitatunga leap from the grasslands sending cascades of water into the humid sub-tropical air.
But this? This dry, dusty landscape falling away below us? Surely this couldn't be the world-famous Okavango Delta?
The view from our Airvan as we bounced our way across the thermals toward Xudum airstrip was of a desiccated land, parched at the end of a long dry winter.
But as they say, patience is a virtue and before long the landscape began to change, little by little transforming into the green sea of water, grassland and termite islands I'd been expecting.
You see, the Okavango Delta is a land in constant flux. From May to August the floods arrive from the highlands of Angola, spreading the watery tendrils of the Delta as for south as the tourist hub of Maun. Nope, contrary to what you may think, it's not the heavy summer rains that form the famous floodplain, but the meandering waters of the Okavango River flowing from their source 1600-kilometres away to empty into the world's largest inland delta.
During this time the water, and the wildlife, is spread far and wide until the rivers start to dry up in summer. From December to March the rains arrive, soaking the landscape and providing welcome relief from the heat for animals human or otherwise. As the rains peter out in April and May the floods begin to trickle southwards again, marking the best time to visit the Delta.
As some wise man once said, the only thing that's constant is change. I wonder if he'd visited the Delta?
There are few better places to witness this change first-hand than Xudum Delta Lodge, one of two lodges in the Okavango recently built by respected safari operator &Beyond (formerly known as CC Africa).
Situated on a permanent channel of the Delta, Xudum is frequently marooned by the floodwaters, providing an exciting entrance for guests as the only way to or from the lodge is by boat!
As the waters recede though the lodge becomes an island in a sea of grassland; oceans of tawny Turpentine Grass wave in the wind, perfectly camouflaging the tawny cats that stalk these plains. Red Lechwe are common in these parts, as are zebra, giraffe and large herds of buffalo, all of which you'll get to meet on daily game drives.
Well-trained rangers – CC Africa boasts some of the best in Africa – bring the landscape to life, and when the big five are hiding you can rely on guides like Ona and Basha to point out a myriad of fascinating plant and bird life that your careless city eyes failed to spot.
When you're exploring a sea of grass it seems fitting to have a wooden cabin to return to. The nine luxurious safari suites at Xudum are built entirely of wood and make the most of the outstanding vistas stretching out over the reed beds. Deep baths, billowing mosquito nets and a romantic roof-top day bed make this the perfect honeymoon escape.
While Xudum enjoys a sea of grasses, its sister lodge a short boat ride away offers a different experience altogether.
Situated on its own private island, Xaranna Tented Camp is cut off by water almost all-year round. Now before you scream 'Robinson Crusoe!' and have images of talking to your own private Wilson à la Tom Hanks, remember that when CC Africa does a tent on an island it is the canvas dream to end all those teenage camping nightmares. This is one island you would happily be marooned on!
Elephantine beds, alfresco showers and yet another heavenly day bed complement the quirky decor that make this camp ideal for the design-conscious younger traveller. Sure, you might need to save your pennies for awhile, but for that once-in-a-lifetime Delta experience it's worth the chunk of change it'll cost you to spend the night in one of the nine intimate suites.
At Xaranna the water confronts you at every turn. Each group of guests is assigned a ranger and tracker to make your Delta dreams come true. Mokoro rides are on tap and are the perfect way to get up close and personal with the landscape.
Keep a keen eye out for Painted Reed Frogs (the tip is to look near the top), have your binoculars handy for Fish Eagles and African Jacanas or just sit back and enjoy the gentle swish of the traditional canoe through the reeds. Oh yes, and try not to remember that you're poling along the same channels the notoriously grumpy hippo use to wander the Delta. Luckily the oversized herbivores stick to the pools during the day and only go a' wandering at night.
Ambling along on a mokoro seem all too sedate? There are speedboat safaris, fishing trips and game drives to enjoy that'll get your pulse going.
Whether you're kicking back with a G&T in your private sala or admiring the evening glow from your sundowner stop on a private island, the ever-flowing waters of the Okavango Delta will keep you entertained one way or the other.
Visit www.andbeyond.com to find out more about Xudum and Xaranna, or call +27 11 809 4300.
» This article originally appeared in Indwe, the in-flight magazine of SA Express airlines.
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