While some people huddle by the fire in their woollen slippers come wintertime, few travellers realise that this is the perfect time to experience a South African safari. In the reserves of the Western and Eastern Cape the hills are lush after the first rains, with smiling antelope out grazing on the abundance and spring flowers beginning to poke their heads through the grass.
Up north, in the bushveld of Mpumalanga and Limpopo, the thinning foliage makes spotting game easier, while the dry rivers force hunter and hunted out to the waterholes. And KZN? Well, KwaZulu-Natal never gets cold, but the clear days and quiet roads are just further proof that winter is South Africa’s secret season for safari escapes.
So you’re convinced? Excellent. But now you encounter your first problem… where, oh where, to go! Decisions, decisions. Well, I’ve spent more than my fair share of time on the back of a Land Rover, careering through the bushveld, and I reckon you simply can’t go wrong with these great lodges…
Western Cape: Sanbona Wildlife Reserve
Where is it? A three-hour drive from Cape Town, off the famous Route 62 wine route.
Why go here? This is your best option in the Cape for an authentic Big Five experience, and the landscapes are as much of an attraction as the game.
And the lodge? You’ve got three options. Dwyka Tented Lodge offers secluded under-canvas luxury ideal for romantic escapes, Gondwana Lodge is family-friendly and offers the ‘Kids on Safari’ programme, while Tilney Manor offers a tranquil escape with an on-site spa for stressed out travellers.
Good for game? The reserve stretches across 54 000ha of Klein Karoo veld, and all the game are free roaming. It’s a self-sustaining eco-system, but the large distances can mean long drives to see the Big Five.
Pick this… if you’d also like to discover the spectacular San rock art on the reserve.
Find out more: www.sanbona.com or call +27 (0)41 407 1000
Western Cape: Bushmanskloof Wilderness Reserve & Retreat
Where is it? 270km north of Cape Town, in the majestic Cederberg Mountains.
Why go here? It’s one of the Cape’s best wilderness retreats; a Relais & Chateaux getaway that combines game, gourmet and outstanding accommodation.
And the lodge? Unforgettable. Cosy fireplaces, outstanding food, and an exciting wine-list make this a good one for rainy winter weekends. The self-contained Koro Lodge is ideal for families.
Good for game? Fair. There are antelope on the reserve, and wild leopards, but the attraction here is equally the spectacular scenery and luxury accommodation. There’s good birding on offer though, as well as rock art walks and fishing.
Pick this… for a gourmet wilderness getaway. Look out for their great-value winter specials.
Find out more: www.bushmanskloof.co.za or call +27 (0) 21 481 1860
Eastern Cape: Samara Private Game Reserve
Where is it? The Plains of Camdeboo, 2½ hours from Port Elizabeth.
Why go here? To get up close to the agile cheetah. Samara is home to a successful breeding program to help save this endangered cat.
And the lodge? Karoo Lodge offers homely hospitality in an old farmstead, The Manor is great for small groups and the Mountain Retreat is the perfect place for peace and quiet. Décor is discreet and thoughtful, rather than OTT luxury.
Good for game? Excellent cheetah and antelope sightings. Specialist safaris help you find the elusive Aardvark and endangered Cape Mountain Zebra. There are also fun safari options for kids.
Pick this… if you’ve seen the Big Five and want something different. Stalking cheetah on foot is a thrill you won’t quickly forget!
Find out more: www.samara.co.za or call +27(0)49 891 0558
Eastern Cape: Amakhala Game Reserve
Where is it? 63kms from Port Elizabeth
Why go here? A great mix of beach and bush, just 40 minutes from Port Elizabeth.
And the lodge? Six lodges scattered across the reserve, offering everything from restored farmhouses for families and groups, to romantic tents for honeymooners. Four- and five-star options available to suit every budget.
Good for game? At 7000 hectares it’s one of the largest private reserves in the Eastern Cape. Four of the Big Five are regularly sighted (little chance of spotting leopard), with unusual options like boat-safaris on offer too.
Pick this… for a clear conscience. Amakhala Game Reserve is Fair Trade in Tourism certified.
Find out more: www.amakhala.co.za or call +27 (0)46 636 2750
KwaZulu-Natal: Phinda Private Game Reserve
Where is it? 3 hours’ drive from Durban, in Zululand
Why go here? It’s one of SA’s finest private reserves. 23 000 hectares have been restored and restocked in a groundbreaking community partnership.
And the lodge? Four gorgeous options: Mountain Lodge (25 suites with wraparound views), Rock Lodge (six intimate stone and adobe suites), Forest Lodge (16 suites set deep in the rare Sand Forest) and Vlei Lodge (six elegant thatched suites with private plunge pools).
Good for game? Outstanding. Some of the best safari guides in the business ensure you have a wildlife experience bar none. Apart from copious Big Five and other game, there’s also excellent birding (415 species) on offer.
Pick this… if you’ve never been on safari before. It’ll have you hooked forever. Look out for the good value ‘bushbreaks’ in winter.
Find out more: www.andbeyond.com or call 011 809 4300.
KwaZulu-Natal: Karkloof Lodge & Spa
Where is it? 24km from Pietermaritzburg
Why go here? An addictive blend of safari and spa. The award-winning wellness facility is one of the best in Africa.
And the lodge? Sixteen elegantly decorated villas with magnificent valley views are situated in a fenced-off section of the reserve, so walking and cycling is safe. Outstanding cuisine paired with an impressive wine cellar.
Good for game? A relaxed game experience. No Big Five but expect black and white rhino, giraffe, zebra and antelope. Karkloof is home to a buffalo-breeding project, so plenty of grumpy Cape buffalo to be seen! Good birding too.
Pick this… for a rejuvenating weekend. The ‘raw food’ menu will have you as good as new!
Find out more: www.karkloofspa.com or call +27 (0)33 569 1321
Mpumalanga: Tanda Tula
Where is it? 40kms from Hoedspruit, which has daily flights from Johannesburg.
Why go here? It’s a wonderfully low-key lodge offering all the comforts of a five-star bush getaway, but without the airs and graces.
And the lodge? 12 elegantly furnished safari tents spread out along the banks of the Nlharalumi River that are luxurious without being pretentious. The bush breakfasts are delicious, and there’s little that can beat a braai under the stars in a dry riverbed.
Good for game? Situated in the legendary Timbavati, the game viewing is exceptional. Twice-daily drives will keep you entertained and enthralled. Be sure to ask for a tour of the on-site elephant research project.
Pick this… for the best game-viewing Kruger has to offer (the fences are dropped), but without the crowds.
Find out more: www.tandatula.co.za or call +27 (0)15 793 3191
Mpumalanga: Singita Castleton
Where is it? In the heart of the famous Sabi Sand Reserve, bordering the Kruger National Park. Direct flights available from Johannesburg.
Why go here? It’s the ‘secret’ in the acclaimed Singita collection, and a stay at Castleton Camp is like owning your own slice of Africa. This exclusive-use lodge hosts only 12 guests at a time, so it’s just you and your 11 favourite people!
And the lodge? The historic stone farmhouse is where you’ll enjoy the signature Singita cuisine, with the six charming rooms scattered throughout the gardens. Rates are all inclusive so you can kick back and relax.
Good for game? There’s game-viewing right on your doorstep, but twice-daily drives and guided bush walks ensure you won’t go home without seeing the best of the Sabi Sand. The reserve is especially famous for its big cat sightings.
Pick this… for your bucket list. It’s pricey, but then it’s only money, right?
Find out more: www.singita.com or call +27 (0)21 683 3424
Mpumalanga: Ngala Tented Camp
Where is it? In its own private reserve bordering the Kruger National Park, 30 minutes’ drive from Hoedspruit.
Why go here? Ngala has the best safari tents outside the Okavango. It’s a laid-back camp that never fails to deliver on everything from great food to homely hospitality. It also ticks all the eco-tourism boxes, working with local communities through &Beyond’s Africa Foundation.
And the lodge? Delightful, and brimming with old world charm and a style that's missing from so many other safari-spots. No zebra skin couches here, just chic retro chairs and rough stone walls in place of tacky prints of Africa’s Big Five.
Good for game? ‘Ngala’ means ‘lion’ in Shangaan, so big cat sightings are almost guaranteed. Fences have been dropped with the Timbavati to the West and Kruger to the East, so it’s as good as being in the Park itself. Excellent guides are certain to find you creatures great and small.
Pick this… to discover what all safari tents should be like.
Find out more: www.andbeyond.com or call 011 809 4300.
North-West Province: Madikwe Collection
Where is it? Four hours’ drive from Gauteng, on the border with Botswana. Direct flights available from Johannesburg.
Why go here? A good option if you’ve done Kruger backwards and want a different safari experience. The reserve also has wonderful community projects to discover and support.
And the lodge? Six options spread across the Reserve, from the expansive views of Buffalo Ridge to the tented intimacy of Thakadu River Camp. The low-key Bush House is a more relaxed camp that’s great for families.
Good for game? The 75 000 hectare reserve is home to a vast array of animals, with the land all restored from cattle farms to open wilderness. Excellent game-viewings guaranteed.
Pick this… if you want to see African Wild Dog. The park is famous for its packs.
Find out more: www.madikwecollection.com or call +27 (0)11 805 9995
First published in Explore South Africa magazine, Winter 2010
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