The steamy tropical climate in the far reaches of Zululand is reason enough to head straight for the beach, but this lush north-east corner of KwaZulu-Natal is famous for more than powdery white sand and secret beaches you'll have all to yourself.
The ancestral lands of the famous Zulu king Shaka offer everything from historical landmarks and bloody battlefields to luxurious Big Five escapes. It's no wonder he defended the rolling hills and sub-tropical coastline to the death!
A good, if unashamedly touristy, place to start any tour of Zululand is Shakaland.
And by the way, it's more dramatic when you say it like James Earl Jones and throw in a drumbeat or two.
"Shakaland! Doo-doom!"
Originally built as the set for the 1986 movie 'Shaka Zulu', Shakaland is a re-creation of the king's Great Kraal overlooking the Phobane Lake. Although assegaai-wielding warriors will turn up the cheese to welcome you to Shaka-Disney, it's still a good place to learn a little about the Zulu nation. The Nandi experience is a worthwhile display of Zulu culture and customs, while tourists are never disappointed by the foot-stomping displays of traditional Zulu dancing.
It's certainly not for the jaded traveller, but if you want to learn a little about the man and people that once ruled these hills with an iron fist then Shakaland is the place to start. And if all that beer-drinking and spear-throwing has you tired out, there's even a hotel on-site cleverly designed as 55 traditional bee-hive huts. With all the mod-cons thrown in, of course.
Shaka was famous as a warrior king, and the battles between English soldiers and the Zulu impis are the stuff of legend. While the far western reaches of Zululand – areas such as Isandhlwana and Blood River - draw most of the Battlefields tourists, there are a number of historic sites nearby worth visiting.
From Shakaland the road north to Ulundi is your best bet, with diversions to Coward's Bush and Dingaan's Kraal possible if you have time. There's not much to recommend the town of Ulundi itself, but the region is famously home to the site of the battle that finally ended the bloody Anglo-Zulu war.
After the six-month Battle of Ulundi, Cetshwayo's capital of Ondini was finally razed by the victorious British troops and he was imprisoned in Cape Town's castle. The royal kraal (isigodlo) has since been rebuilt and, along with the KwaZulu Cultural-Historical Museum, is an excellent way to experience some of the Zulu history and culture. Nearby, some of the most famous Zulu kings lie buried in the Emakhosini Ophathe Heritage Park. Make sure you pick up the excellent brochure which has a good map of the historic sites on offer.
From Battlefields to the Big Five, in the heart of Zululand you will also find one of the country's undisputed wilderness gems: the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve.
Established in 1895, Hluhluwe-Imfolozi holds the honour of being the oldest game reserve in Africa. Once the private hunting grounds of Zulu kings Shaka and Dingiswayo, the park has since become famous for its efforts to conserve the White Rhino. In 1960 these lumbering beasts were on the verge of extinction due to loss of habitat and poaching, yet today the white rhino population is now 12 times what it was back then!
In addition to the now-famous herds of Ceratotherium simum the park is a Noah's Ark of wildlife, including the ever-popular Big Five. With its hilly topography the park is also a haven for birdlife, with over 300 species recorded.
Wildlife aside, it's the wide range of ways to enjoy the wilderness that brings many visitors to Hluhluwe-Imfolozi.
Sign-posted auto-trails allow you to drive explore on your own, or you can join one of the guided game drives in open safari vehicles where knowledgeable rangers will bring the bush to life.
The reserve was one of the pioneers of walking trails in Big Five country, and there are a range of options on offer if you'd like to stretch your legs.
The Imfolozi section of the park has three self-guided walking trails - at Emoyeni Mpila, Enkulu and Masinda Ncane – for you to explore on your own. Guide books are available to help you follow the path and interpret the bush along the way. If you'd rather not take the road less travelled there are also guided walks (about two hours) from both Mpila and Hilltop Camps. Remember to book your spot at reception though. If you like to walk on the wild side, then the famous Hluhluwe-Imfolozi wilderness trail is one not to be missed.
Available from mid-March to mid-December, the three-day hike starts at Mndindini Trails Camp overlooking the White Mfolozi River, and takes you deep into the heart of the 30 000-hectare wilderness area. You'll spend two nights at a tented camp in the bush, accompanied by an experienced ranger of course, before returning to Mndindini
But what if you're not a bush-baby?
Luckily there are a range of accommodation options in and around the reserve.
KZN Wildlife offers a variety of places to stay within the park; from self-catering chalets to upmarket bush lodges complete with their own chef and wilderness guide. Many visitors also choose to stay on the outskirts of the park and drive in each day.
A good option if you choose this route is the Zululand Tree Lodge. Run by the Three Cities group, this popular lodge on the outskirts of the reserve offers 24 thatched rooms raised on stilts in the tranquillity of a Fever Tree forest.
While the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve is justifiably the most famous, Zululand offers a range of wildlife getaways to suit most pockets. Hluluwe is your best bet if you're travelling on a budget, but if your credit card is charged up then Zululand's your five-star safari oyster!
It's hard not to fall in love with Thanda Private Game Reserve, just 23-kilometres from the town of Hluhluwe. It's very name means 'love' in Zulu and that's just what has gone into creating this stunning Big Five reserve.
When you're not out tracking Lion or Elephant you could find yourself having a breakfast feast out in the bush, or taking a walk in the footsteps of rhino on a guided bush walk. That is, however, if you can tear yourself away from the gorgeous suites of the Main Lodge.
Just nine luxury bush villas are on offer, each measuring an elephantine 220m² with their own private deck and 'sala' day-bed for afternoon siestas, well as a refreshing plunge pool. Stretched out along the hillside there are fantastic views of the reserve from almost every corner of the suite. Need some extra-pampering or want to pop the question? Book a treatment in the wellness centre, and ask for a romantic candlelit dinner to be served in your suite's private boma.
Not far off is Phinda Private Game Reserve, run by the respected safari operator &Beyond (previously known as CC Africa). Covering 23 000 hectares, Phinda is one of the largest game reserves in the region and covers seven diverse habitats which shelter everything from the Big Five to over 380 bird species.
Tucked away in the wilderness are six lodges, each with their own distinct character and charm. From Forest Lodge set deep in the heart of a rare Dry Sand Forest to the dramatic mountain-top setting of Rock Lodge there's something to tickle your fancy.
In addition to the usual game drives and walks, Phinda also offers a range of specialist safari activities. These include the unique opportunity to shadow Phinda's leopard research team, as well as the four-day Bush Skills Academy where you can learn a little about what it takes to be a game ranger.
From wildlife to wetlands, Phinda borders another of South Africa's natural highlights.
This stretch of Zululand coastline is world-renowned for its magnificent coastal estuaries, and none is more impressive than Lake St Lucia; a 38 000 hectare expanse that's the pride and joy of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park (www.isimangaliso.com), which was recently declared a World Heritage Site.
In the reserve, you can wander along deserted beaches, cast a line for Garrick or watch humpback whales calve offshore. There are also daily boat tours out on to the lake run by KZN Wildlife. Tickets cost in the region of R120 per adult. Whatever you do, don't take a dip in the Lake… the Nile Crocodiles lie in wait!
If you want to swim with the wildlife then your best bet is to head a little further north to Sodwana Bay where you'll find any number of dive boats heading for Two- and Quarter Mile Reefs; popular with divers for their resident Ragged Tooth sharks.
Whether history marks him as murderous dictator or defender of the people, the land of the King Shaka is without doubt one of the most scenic areas of South Africa. If looking for adventure on the coast or simply admiring the scenery further inland, the kingdom of the Zulus will welcome you with open arms.
Originally published in travelideas, Summer 2009
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