16 Feb |
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Alan Paton may have penned these words about the hills of Ixopo, but the great author may just as easily have been writing about the lush Karkloof valley. Paton was born in Pietermaritzburg, just 25 kilometres away, and he certainly would have smiled at the sight of these verdant hills. Up on the hillside a herd of Cape buffalo grazes quietly, keeping to themselves. The reserve is home to a disease-free breeding project for these lumbering animals that are infamous for their bad temper. Higher up, a journey of giraffes nibble their way around the thorns of the plentiful Paper-Bark Acacias; while zebra and wildebeest make the most of the long summer grass.  It’s the view that I’m soaking up from the Tranquillity Lounge at Karkloof Spa, one of the largest destination spa resorts in Africa and one of just a handful that throws a wildlife experience into the mix. But first and foremost it’s all about the spa; and in this case it’s a spa built on superlatives. 17 treatment rooms, highly-trained therapists flown in from across the globe, the best equipment, a range of hydrotherapy options, the finest organic therapy products, foot-rubs from David Beckham on request. OK, I made that last one up, but you get the idea. The spa is divided into distinct areas, with wooden walkways and thoughtfully landscaped gardens leading you into treatment rooms custom-designed for specific therapies. The five rooms of the ‘Wetlands’ area include a hydro-bath and couple’s room, a popular facility that’s also found in the ‘Forest’ section used for general massage therapies. Wander past the ‘Savannah Plains’ and Tranquillity Lounge to head down to the highlight of Karkloof; the Thai Sala, with its outstanding valley views. If you love to spa, you’ll think you’ve died and gone to heaven. I, on the other hand, am a bit of a spa newbie. I’m also not very good at wrapping my leg around my neck. No matter, that’s what Kong is for. When it comes to massage it's hard to beat the traditional Thai method, and you’re safe in the arms of Kong. With hands as strong as his demeanour is gentle, and the flexibility of Angelina Jolie on a good Tomb Raider day, Kong is perhaps the best Thai masseuse west of Chiang Mai, his hometown in northern Thailand. One of six Thai massage therapists hand-picked for the Karkloof Spa, he’s an expert at twisting, contorting and cracking every joint in your body. Including a few you didn’t even know you had! While some may consider this cruel and unusual punishment, you’ll float out of the serene massage studio with a smile stretched across your face and joints so loose you’ll feel like a marionette. Which is how I find myself, 30-minutes post-Kong, in a happy stupor gazing out over the valley. Later, perhaps I’ll unleash my metrosexual side and try a pedicure. Or maybe a session in the Moroccan-themed Rassoul Chamber before a dip in the hot/cold Kneipp pools to get the circulation going. Tomorrow, I see a signature ‘spa journey’ in my future. But there's more to Karkloof than the spa. Beyond these eco-friendly confines there’s a 3500ha reserve to explore, stocked with animals great and small from rhino to warthog and almost everything in between. Usefully though, it’s divided into two sections; the big dangerous stuff with horns and claws are kept securely on one side, allowing you to wander at will on the other. "...there’s certainly no need to rush. .." Morning and afternoon game drives with experienced rangers lead you into the ‘wilder’ section of the reserve, and although first-time safari-goers may find it a little tame there’s still a wonderful range of game to discover. About the only thing you won't find here are elephant and big cats, but if you put the cameras away, leave the bincoculars in their pouch and stop ticking birds off the sighting list you’ll soon start to feel the magic. Chuckle at the officious warthog family darting under the zebra, spend a while gazing at the pattern on a giraffe’s rump or learn why the wildebeest is the ‘spare parts’ shop of the African bush. Perhaps best of all, unlike at many of the Big Five reserves there are no competing game vehicles jostling for a sighting before tearing off in a swirl of dust. Slowing down is what getaways like this are all about, and at Karkloof there’s certainly no need to rush. You can take it even slower in the other half of the reserve which is fenced off to be safely free of rhino and buffalo, but can’t keep out the wily antelope and warthog. It’s here that you’ll find the spa and lodge, which means you can wander around freely without keeping an eye open for a grumpy two-ton resident. There are a range of walking trails to discover, or hop on one of the lodge’s mountain bikes to explore the far corners of the reserve. Grassy glades and deserted dirt-tracks are a highlight in themselves, but the reserve is also home to a rather more boisterous attraction. Secreted away in a quiet corner, the 105-metre Karkloof Falls is one of South Africa's tallest waterfalls and well worth a visit. A wooden walkway has been built over the slippery sandstone boulders allowing you close enough to be drenched by the spray. At the end of a day filled with spa and safari, there are few better places to watch the sun go down than the private deck of your luxury villa. There are just 16 villas on the property, each striking the perfect balance of being luxurious but not pretentious. A delicate blend melds contemporary décor with a touch of African style, while moody wildlife photos hint at what lies beyond the fence-line. All the mod cons are in place, but you’ll probably be just as happy sinking into an armchair on the balcony and listening to the birdsong. Once you’ve wallowed in your over-sized bath, dinner awaits, and meals are a stylish affair served in the main lodge. As with the rooms, it’s glamorous yet down-to-earth. More moody wildlife photos, offset by a crystal chandelier. Crackling fires in the stone hearth make you want to curl up with a good book, while the well-stocked wine cellar offers some of South Africa’s best vintages. Meals are an occasion to be savoured at Karkloof, with both indulgent and healthy options available for each course allowing you to indulge or detox as you see fit. 'What you want, when you want' is the name of the game and the ever-friendly staff ensure that no request is too much trouble. Trouble. It’s about the farthest thing from my mind as I slip in and out of a blissful doze in the Tranquillity Room, deciding between the Rassoul and the pedicure. Oh heck, perhaps I’ll just have both. Being a little indulgent is what places like Karkloof are all about. Visit www.karkloofspa.com to find out more, or call 033 569 1321. You can also email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it . First published in Indwe, the in-flight magazine of SA Express; February 2010 Add this page to your favorite Social Bookmarking websites            |