12 Dec |
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 “They must know what they’re doing,” I think to myself as I wander off to find a lounger. Arab traders brought them down the east coast in search of gold and slaves to trade for their spices. They found both in abundance on the coastline here at Mombasa, and for hundreds of years the Portuguese and Arab traders battled for supremacy of this strategic island city. Little wonder then Mombasa’s Old Town was known in kiSwahili as Kisiwa Cha Mvita; ‘Island of War’. But those days are long gone. Mombasa may still be the largest port in East Africa, but today the most lucrative trade is in the tourists who flock here to enjoy the long white sandy beaches that seem to stretch on forever. With a gentle slope, fringing coral reef and swaying palms there are sections of coastline that might as well appear in the dictionary alongside ‘paradise’. The city itself is a bustling, chaotic place; an enjoyable excursion, but not the place to be for a little R&R. Luckily it’s easy to escape the chaos of Kenya’s second city and enjoy the sands stretching out to the north and south of town. Sea and sand. Two things Mombasa has in abundance. Apart from the odd bit of seaweed that washes up, the coral sands are as gleaming white as you could ask for, and the seas the clear turquoise postcards are made of. Even Karen Blixen – she of ‘Out of Africa’ fame – waxed lyrical about that view: “The sea at Mombasa is as blue as a cornflower… the long breakers of the Indian Ocean draw a thin crooked white line, and give out a low thunder even in the calmest weather. " That low thunder comes from the Indian Ocean breaking on the second-longest barrier reef on the planet, which runs from Somalia all the way south to Tanzania. A rich wall of coral teeming with marine life, it makes for excellent scuba diving. Some stretches have been hit by over-fishing, but areas within Kenyan waters are declared marine parks, and are a delight to snorkel and dive. Further out the deep-sea fishing in the area is legendary, with record marlins taking the bait in season and great reef fishing (outside of the marine parks, of course) all year round. About the only thing that’ll keep most beachgoers out of the water is the wind. The east coast of Africa is famous for the strong, steady trade winds. The southeast monsoon wind that brings rain and rough seas is the one to watch out, but the kusi only blows between May and July. At most other times of year the gentler kaskazi blows out of the north, taking the edge off the steamy tropical heat. These steady winds – along with flat reef-protected seas and warm waters – have made this stretch of coastline one of the world’s top kite-surfing destinations, and kiters flock here from across the globe. If that sounds a little extreme, most beachfront resorts offer a range of fast-but-fun sailing boats for you to use. And if you don’t know how to sail there’s sure to be an instructor on hand to greet you with a friendly ‘Jambo’ and show you the ropes. Chances are you’ll be staying at one of the resorts strung out along the coast north and south of town. From trendy all-inclusive hotels to more basic beach bungalows, there’s something to suit every pocket and taste. After sampling a few of them, my favourite is still the Serena Beach Hotel & Spa to the north of Mombasa that offers delightful rooms built in the style of a traditional Swahili town. Lush gardens separate the four-room villas, while carved wooden balconies – complete with naughty macaques – overlook courtyards that melt into winding lanes leading towards the beach. Every morning as I wandered out onto the lush beachfront lawns, eyes peeled for a spare sun lounger to settle into, I’d find myself unconsciously scanning the horizon. Without fail I’d see a lonely dhow making its slow, but steady way through the warm waters of the Indian Ocean. Resorts now line the beach and tourists are the new gold, but perhaps – after 500 years of sailing these waters – not that much has changed after all. Kenya Airways flies daily from Johannesburg to Nairobi, with easy connections to Mombasa. For reservations, call 082 2345 786 or visit www.kenya-airways.com. For Serena Beach Hotel & Spa bookings visit www.serenahotels.com or call Johannesburg reservations on 011 0212 607/8/9. Add this page to your favorite Social Bookmarking websites            |