08 Jul |
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 Below, a fine filigree of rivers is laid out on the landscape like the veins of a desiccated leaf. With just over two million people sharing these wide open plains there's one thing Namibia is certainly not short of: space. Set amongst rolling hills, Windhoek is the main point of entry for most visitors to Namibia, and the best place to collect your hire car and hit the road. If you want to take it easy it's worth spending a night in Windhoek to see the landmark Christuskirche, the Alte Fest (old fort) and historic Tintenplaat; the home of Namibia's parliament. Joe's Beer House is another Windhoek institution, with its hearty portions, cold beer and quirky furniture. Get there early and bag a table with Joe's famous toilet seats! Heading north Okahandja will be your first stop, 70-kilometres from the capital. This small town is brimming with history, from the old Rhenish Mission Church to Herero graves. Gross Barmen resort to the south-west of town is popular for its thermal springs, or head to the craft market to stock up on traditional Kavango woodcarvings. At Okahandja it's time to hang a left, leave the camelthorn bushveld behind and cross the flat gravely plains towards Swakopmund on the B2 highway. Shortly beyond Usakos look out for the road to the right towards Spitzkoppe; this 600m granite outcrop is a popular rock-climbing spot that locals like to call 'the Matterhorn of Namibia'! Another 70 kilometres will bring you into Swakopmund; Namibia's premier coastal resort and a town that's brimming with German character. Well-preserved colonial buildings peer above the rooftops of modern holiday homes, and an excellent museum tells the history of the area. The town is famous for its traditional German confectionery, while Eisbein and locally-brewed Tafel lager will satisfy any hungry road-tripper. The town is a popular centre for adventure sports, with a range of desert activities on offer in the dunes south of town. Quad-bike tours will get the adrenalin pumping, or join Tommy Collard for his 'Living Desert' tour which will bring the shifting sands to life. Watch out for those sidewinders! There's also the fascinating 'Welwitschia Drive' to explore. North of town, the landscape changes again, and the flat, gravely plains of the Central Namib desert will keep you company on the coastal road towards Henties Bay. This area is popular with fishermen, who come to try their luck at spots like 'Sarah se Gat' and 'Bennie se Rooi Lorrie'! This area is known as the National West Coast Tourist Recreation Area, and has been set aside for visitors to enjoy. One of the most popular attractions is the seal colony at Cape Cross, which is home to the largest colony of Cape Fur Seals in Namibia. These seals could do with some deodorant though, so pack some nose-plugs! At Henties Bay it's time to leave the coast behind and head inland again. Following the C35 towards Khorixas, the Brandberg looms large on your left. A popular spot for hiking, this is the highest mountain in Namibia towering 2574m above sea level – that's over twice the height of Table Mountain! This UNESCO World Heritage Site is also said to be the largest open-air art gallery in Africa, with over 44 000 rock paintings recorded at 900 different sites. The most famous of these is the so-called 'White Lady' in the Tsisab Ravine, which is a 40-minute walk from the parking area. You'll find further rock engravings around the corner at Twyfelfontein, which is also famous for ancient welwitschia plants, Petrified Forest and rock outcrops. A diversion to just beyond Khorixas is also worthwhile to see the Vingerklip, a magnificent 35m high pillar of rock looming over the Ugab Terraces. After a long day in the mountains, the three-star Twyfelfontein Country Lodge is a good spot to rest your weary legs. A little further north, the Palmwag Lodge is also a good option with its regular tours to track the area's famous desert elephants. If it's game you're after then it's best to hit the road for Etosha National Park, one of Africa's most famous game reserves. Centred around the Etosha Pan, the Park is home to many species of antelope, endangered black rhino, black-faced impala, lion and large herds of elephant. September is a great time to visit, as the temperatures warm up and European tourists head home. The excellent accommodation on offer in the park is run by Namibia Wildlife Resorts, and is available at Okaukuejo (popular for its waterhole), Halali and Namutoni. What's more, the well-maintained roads in the Park mean that you don't need a 4x4 to go exploring. By now, it's probably time to start heading home. But what's the rush? Leave a day or two for the journey back to Windhoek. A short way outside Otjiwarongo you'll find the Waterberg Plateau Park, the perfect spot for one last Namibian sunset. Towering above the acacia-filled savannah, the sheer orange cliffs of the plateau offer fantastic walking and game-drive opportunities; with rhino, roan, sable and buffalo for company! As the rising sun sets the Waterberg's sandstone cliffs on fire, it's time to pack the hire car one last time and hit the B1 back to Windhoek. But before you drop the keys at Hosea Kutako perhaps there's time for one last stop. And where better to toast a fantastic Namibian adventure than back at Joe's Beerhouse… a cold Tafel lager in hand! For more information:
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