Battling the Friday afternoon traffic out of Cape Town is never much fun;but as soon as you've cleared Grabouw, done a few turns through the Canola fields and whipped right at Caledon onto the R316 you know you're on your way to finding some peace and quiet.

Stop off in Napier (if you left town early enough) to pick up some fresh 'tuisgebak' at the ever-friendly farm-stall and then it's all downhill through Bredasdorp and onto the lonely road towards Cape Agulhas.

About halfway to the town of L'Agulhas (best to call ahead for directions) a dusty road takes you into the wild blue yonder. Through farm gates (this is sheep and cattle country) and across the plains until a yellow speck rolls into view atop on a hill.

Welcome then, to what owner Jenny Uys like to call her 'perfect peace of Africa'; and a more accurate description would be hard to come by.

Without another soul for miles around, Jenny's rustic farm cottage is the place I'd choose to hole up and write a book. Longhand, in pen and pencil of course, as there is no electricity at the cottage and that's just the way regular visitors like it.

Hot water comes courtesy of a donkey-boiler at one end of the cottage, with a plentiful supply of wood to ensure you'll have hot showers all weekend. Indoors; the low-ceilings and solid beams come straight out of Hobbiton, while the large hearth is perfect for crackly evenings spent in front of the fire while the winter nor'wester does its worst against the window panes.

When the weather's fine it's best to simply put your feet up on the rough stone wall and just let your pupils scan the horizon for nothing in particular. It's a place for reading that book you keep meaning to, catching up with old friends over a game of cards and simply taking a little time out from the rat race.

If your itchy feet can't keep still you can stroll across the farm fields (don't forget to close the gates) or cast a line in Soetendalsvlei for Carp or Black Bass.

Soetendalsvlei, I hear you ask? I hadn't heard of it either, but this is no pipsqueak of a farm dam and it's said to be the largest natural body of freshwater in Southern Africa. And it's right on your doorstep.

Lodge is perhaps a misnomer for this lovingly restored farm cottage, but personal touches abound and it's kitted out with everything a weekend escape artist could need.

"The house is fully equipped so all you have to bring along is food and some very nice wine to drink," says Jenny. Take wine, food and good company… how much easier can it be to enjoy a great weekend escape?

IF YOU GO…
Where it is: Near the southern tip of Africa, about 20 kilometres from L'Agulhas.
Why go there: Space, space and more space that you'll only have to share with the odd sheep and your chosen companions. Every frazzled city-dweller should have a country bolthole. This is one of my favourites.
What it offers: Two bedrooms sleeping six people in total, both en suite, leading onto a cosy lounge/dining room and through to a simple, but well-equipped kitchen. Remember that there's no power, so don't expect a dishwasher… you'll have to draw straws. Regulars will be glad to hear there's now a double bed in the 'old folks' bedroom.
What it's like: Screed floors, rough wooden beams and a rietdak ceiling set the scene nicely. Time will both slow to a crawl and fly by until you're on the road back to town, wondering when you can next return.
And the food: It's self-catering all the way, so you choose; but it would be a crime to not make use of the mountain of firewood and outdoor braai area. You can also pick up fresh fish at Struisbaai harbour.
What there is to see on the way: The Overberg's your oyster. Take a wander through Napier, stock up on the world-famous Kapula Candles in Bredasdorp or walk for hours on the longest white-sand beach in the southern hemisphere at Struisbaai.
Rates: Cheap as chips at just R170 per person per night, and kids under 12 stay free. Perfect for those credit-crunched wallets in 2009.
Getting there: Turn off the N2 at Caledon and follow the R316 to Bredasdorp, then the R319 towards L'Agulhas/Struisbaai
Contact: Call Jenny on 082 493 8875 or email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it . For more info you can also visit www.budget-getaways.co.za.

LOCAL ATTRACTION
A visit to the rough and rocky Cape Agulhas is a great way to spend a morning if you want to go exploring, and briefly be the southernmost person in Africa.

Since 1848 the famous lighthouse here has cast its beam 50-kilometres out to sea to warn passing ships of these treacherous shores. For R15 (open 9am – 5pm daily) you can climb to the top for great views of the surrounding coastline.

The jagged rocks off Agulhas have claimed over 2000 ships over the years, and a great place to explore the history of the area is at Bredasdorp's excellent Shipwreck Museum; the only one of its kind in Africa.

Housed in an historic building at the centre of town, this quirky museum is home to a fascinating collection of artefacts and memorabilia, telling the stories of some of the famous shipwrecks in the region, including the Arniston and Birkenhead. The sailors of the Birkenhead are credited with starting the famous nautical tradition of 'women and children first' when abandoning ship.

» Originally published in the Sunday Times; March 29 2009.

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