I’ve always imagined stargazing to be a fairly solemn, solitary activity. Bearded men with sensible shoes peering up at the heavensthrough their glass telescopes. It never sounded like much fun, to be honest.


The reality, however, is quite different and meanders through the Milky Way are rapidly becoming a popular family activity for starry-eyed South Africans. To keep up with demand, B&Bs, guesthouses and game farms are offering astronomy weekends to keep you up after dark.


For a clear view of the stars you’ll do best to head out into the country, but if time is short and the petrol tank is low there are a few spots close to SA’s major cities where you can get up close and personal with the cosmos.


So what are your options if you’ve fancy having a gander at some heavenly bodies… other than the wife, that is.


Sutherland


For stargazing in South Africa there is really only one place to start: Sutherland. This small town 360 kilometres from Cape Town is home to… well, not much really. And that’s exactly why it has attracted astronomers from across the globe.


Nearly 1500m above sea level, and far enough inland to receive very little rainfall, the crystal clear skies here are simply perfect for gazing heavenwards. The collection of domes 20 kilometres outside of town has been the headquarters of the South Astronomical Observatory (SAAO) since 1972, but it’s only recently that this patch of dusty Karoo had South Africans star-struck.


And it’s all thanks to the large chunk of glass known as SALT; the Southern African Large Telescope. With a mirror measuring 11-metres across, SALT is the most powerful optical telescope in the southern hemisphere – able to detect light a billion times too faint to be seen with the human eye; the equivalent of a candle burning on the surface of the moon!


SALT has certainly brought South Africa astronomy stardom, but it has also drawn in the tourists.


For a wander amongst the various domes that make up the observatory, and a peek inside SALT, the SAAO offers informative guided daytime tours (Monday to Friday, 10h30 and 14h30; Saturday 11h30 and 14h30; R20pp). The informative visitor centre offers a good – if a little dry – introduction to the hard science behind astronomy, so expect a bit of a brain workout as you grapple with the concepts of refraction, the speed of light and exploding gases.


However, it’s the night tours that are the, ahem, star attraction.


The 90-minute tour is your opportunity to get a close-up view of the rings of Saturn, the moons of Jupiter and a bevy of other celestial beauties through two hefty telescopes. I challenge you not to ‘ooh’ and ‘aah’ at the sight of Saturn’s racetrack of rock and dust!


About the only downside to the night tours is that you won’t be able to visit any of the main telescopes or SALT itself… they are being used by astronomers, of course!


The night tours (Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday; R40pp) are extremely popular and must be booked in advance.


Cape Town


South Africa’s eyes to the universe may gaze out of Sutherland, but its soul is in the heart of the Mother City.


In the suburb of – you guessed it – Observatory you’ll find the original home of South Africa’s starry-eyed scientists. On the site of the former Royal Observatory (1828-1971) are the offices and laboratories where the reams of data collected in Sutherland are decoded.


The SAAO throws open its gates to the public twice a month (second and fourth Saturday, 20h00, free) offering the chance to peer through a range of powerful telescopes. To celebrate the International Year of Astronomy 2009, these evenings also include a fascinating lecture on everything from the search for extra-terrestrial life to the birth and death of stars.


Cederberg


Coming in a close second to Sutherland in the clear-sky stakes is the magnificent Cederberg Mountains, some 250 kilometres north of Cape Town.


To stargaze in style, the luxurious Bushmanskloof Wilderness Reserve in the northern Cederberg is offering two value-for-money stargazing weekends (20-22 Sept, 8-10 November) with Cliff Turk; a fellow of the Royal Astronomical Society.


Turk is also one of the passionate volunteers who own and run the Cederberg Astronomical Observatory. On the doorstep of Cederberg Cellars – do taste their excellent ‘wines with altitude’ – the Observatory is open most Saturday evenings; closing only when the moon is full or winter storms obscure the heavens. There’s no charge for their stargazing events, but donations are welcome.



Swellendam


If rugged isn’t your scene, perhaps the pastoral Hermitage Valley will suit?


Just a few minutes from Swellendam in the picturesque Overberg, this secret valley against the Langeberg Mountains is the largest producer of Youngberries in the world. No surprise then that it’s also home to the delicious Wildebraam Berry Liqueur... just the thing to keep away the stargazing chills at bay!


The Wildebraam estate holds weekly astronomy evenings (Mondays, or min. 4 people, R80pp) with Swellendam Stargazers.


Heading north


A stopover in the Hermitage is perfect if you’re exploring the Garden Route, but what about those doing the N1 run between Gauteng and Cape Town?


The clear Karoo skies are ideal for stargazing, and a number of guest farms offer astronomy weekends on request. Louis Barendse of Big Skies Astronomy – also the co-host of ‘Sterre-en-Planete’ on Radio RSG – hosts entertaining astronomy evenings on the Karoo Gariep Conservancy and Noorspoort Guest Farm. His talks cover everything from a Beginners’ Guide to the Galaxy to Mars’ Little Green Men!


The Boyden Observatory a short way outside of Bloemfontein is also worth a visit, but stargazing evenings are by appointment only. If that’s a little far-flung you can also wish upon a star just a short drive from the bright lights of Gauteng.


Cradle to the galaxy


The Aloe Ridge Hotel in Muldersdrift is home to a gargantuan 25” telescope; the largest privately owned telescope in South Africa! Their regular “Astronomy with gastronomy” evenings (R100pp, excluding dinner) offer a wonderful three-course meal – expect dishes like Sunspot Soup, Ravioli Balls of Fire and Black Hole Beef Fillet – served with a dollop of after-dinner comet-hunting!


There’s a similar gourmet and galaxies evening on offer at nearby Maropeng, the official visitor centre for The Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site. Themed stargazing evenings (from 6pm, R295 including 3-course dinner) are held monthly, with resident astronomer Vincent Nettmann on hand to guide you across the heavens through his range of large aperture telescopes.


Much has changed in the Cradle of Humankind since Australopithecus africanus and his pre-human buddies wandered these hills, pursued by sabre-toothed cats and long-legged hunting hyenas, but by and large one thing has remained the same. We’re still looking up at the same old stars.

First published in AA Traveller magazine; Winter 2009

---

Add this page to your favorite Social Bookmarking websites