The explosion of spring flowers has fast become one of South Africa’s most popular natural events, drawing visitors from across the country and the world to marvel at the carpets of colour that bloom in the Western and Northern Cape each year.

You’ll see magnificent spring flowers as far south as the Western Cape wine lands town of Darling, but if you have a little more time on your hands the Northern Cape is the place to visit. Heading north on the N7 freeway, you’ll pass the turnoff to Clanwilliam, but keep driving past the vineyards and rooibos tea plantations until you reach Vanrhynsdorp; the ‘gateway to Namaqualand’.

It’s here that you’ll need to choose between left and right; the high road or the low road. Left takes you north along the N7 to the famous Namaqualand, while right will lead you over the winding Vanrhyn’s Pass to the Bokkeveld Plateau and Nieuwoudtville.

If you stick to the N7 – the main drag north which runs right up to Namibia – you’re on your way to perhaps the most famous flower gardens on earth; Namaqualand. Dry and barren in summer, winter rains transform the dusty landscape almost overnight as the famous Namaqualand daisies, gazanias and succulent vygies turn the desert into a riot of colour.

The gravelly plains of the Knersvlakte that surrounds Vanrhynsdorp may seem barren, but take a closer look and you’ll find that in amongst the dry white pebbles are thousands of tiny succulents, eking out an existence.

These small thick-leafed plants are a hallmark of the region, and you can discover more about the boksportjies, kameelspoor, baby toes, hitch-hikers and candy toes at the nursery in Vanrhynsdorp’s Voortrekker Street. Also make time to stop at the Kersbos Flower Park, about eight kilometres north of Bitterfontein, where a nature-loving farmer has established a 100-hectare flower reserve on his farm to preserve this delicate vegetation for future generations.

A profusion of spring flowers dots the roadside all the way to the ‘dorpie’ of Garies, which sprang up in 1845 on land given to the Dutch Reformed Church by the owner of the farm Goedeverwagting. Although the town was originally named after the farm, its present name comes from the local Nama word ‘Th’aries’, meaning ‘coach-grass’. For a peek into the history of the area stop by the Letterklip, where early travellers to Namaqualand inscribed their names on huge megalithic boulders.

Another fifty kilometres brings you to Kamieskroon, the gateway to the Skilpad section of the Namaqua National Park. The reserve, which only operates during the flower season, was established in 1988 by the South African arm of the World Wildlife Fund to conserve the remarkable indigenous flora of the region.

Named after the plentiful tortoises found here, the section is home to some of the best spring flowers you’re likely to find in the Northern Cape. Skilpad’s ridge of hills snares clouds racing in from the coast, and the Park receives most of what little rain blows in off the sea. In years when surrounding areas don’t put on much of a show, Skilpad is always a reliable bet. With the opening of the Skilpad Rest Camp, which offers four fully equipped self-catering cottages; you can now also spend the night in the Park.

From the Namaqua National Park, take a scenic drive along the Wildeperdehoek and Messelpad Passes for a glimpse of gorgeous purple Namaqualand felicia, orange and pink vygies, and an array of daisies. This road will lead you towards the town of Springbok, the end of the Namaqualand Wildflower Route where you can visit the nearby Goegap Nature Reserve for excellent flowers and birding.

If you’re looking to explore off-the-beaten-track, and have a car that doesn’t mind a fair bit of gravel, three of South Africa’s top national parks lie in wait beyond Springbok.

The mountain deserts of the Ai-Ais/Richtersveld National Park offers some of the continent’s most spectacular scenery and the ‘Richtersveld Cultural and Botanical Landscape’ was designated a World Heritage Site in 2007. Although there are chalets and campsites for hire, this is a rugged unforgiving landscape and you’ll need a 4x4 to properly explore the Park.

More accessible is the Augrabies Falls National Park, a few hours northeast of Springbok. The highlight of the Park is the 56m waterfall as the mighty Orange River makes its way through a sinuous sandstone gorge.

Apart from the waterfall there are a range of self-drive routes to explore, with a wide variety of game on offer, as well as hiking trails ranging from a few hours to a few days. To get the adrenalin flowing sign up for the ‘Gariep 3-in-1 Adventure’, which takes you canoeing for three kilometres down the Orange River, hiking for four kilometres and returning to the camp on an exciting mountain bike trail.

For a real dose of adventure you can tackle the long and bumpy gravel road to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier National Park, where red dunes and low scrub are home to herds of antelope, and camel thorn trees (Acacia erioloba) offer shade for the park’s legendary black-mane lions. Few travellers venture this far north, so the effort of driving the long road to the Kgalagadi will be rewarded with spectacular scenery and supreme solitude.

If that’s a sand dune too far, turn your wheels south and make sure you leave a day or two for one last glimpse at the Northern Cape’s magnificent floral spectacle. From Augrabies, follow the back-road along the R27 through the farming town of Calvinia – famous for its annual ‘Vleisfees’ braai festival – until you reach the green fields of Nieuwoudtville.

This sleepy village becomes a hive of activity in flower season (see sidebox), when tourists descend on the town that’s as famous for its honey-coloured sandstone houses as its flowers. The fields around here boast the most interesting spring flowers in South Africa and the town’s numerous B&Bs and guesthouses make this a great base for exploring the area.

The town bills itself as the ‘bulb capital of the world’, and it’s not hard to see why. The farms around Nieuwoudtville spring to life in season as millions – literally – upon millions of Tritonia, Freesia, Ixia, Babiana, Sparaxis and Dierama bulbs burst through the usually arid soil. The Nieuwoudtville wildflower reserve two kilometres east of town is always a good bet to enjoy the blooms, and a number of local farmers arrange flower tours in season. Check with the local information office in town for what’s available.

Another must-see is the Hantam National Botanical Garden. The farm Glenlyon was purchased by the South African National Biodiversity Institute in 2007, and today offers a fantastic floral display across its 6200 hectares. The Garden is open daily during flower season, and booking is essential for the popular guided tours.

At the height of spring you’ll see flowers growing out of ever nook and cranny, so once you’ve had your fill of flowers take a drive out to the Bokkeveld Nature Reserve where you can see the Doring River tumble 90 metres into a rocky gorge. A few kilometres further north on the road to Loeriesfontein is the largest and most southerly colony of Aloe Dichotoma – the mysterious kokerboom, or quiver tree. If you haven’t seen one of these incredible trees before it’s well worth the detour.

The other side of Nieuwoudtville, on the road towards the Botterkloof Pass is the Oorlogskloof glacial pavement, where you can look back in time to when glaciers covered much of South Africa. It’s clearly signposted from the gravel road, and just a 100-metre stroll through the low bush.

These ancient rocks were scraped smooth some 300 million years ago, so the Northern Cape knows all about taking things slow. The rivers flow, the seeds germinate and the warm African sun beats down. In this corner of South Africa, there’s really no excuse not to stop and smell the flowers.

Flower tips
Want to get the most out of your flower tour? Follow these handy tips…

• The height of the flowering season is between August and October, but the peak season depends on when the winter rains arrive. September is usually a safe bet.
• The flowers are at their best during the hottest part of the day, from approximately 11am until 3pm.
• Flowering starts in the Northern Cape around Springbok area and spreads southwards as the season progresses and the weather becomes warmer. If you’re visiting early, head further north.
• The flowers turn during the day to follow the movements of the sun, so for the full effect try and have the sun behind you while you’re walking or driving.
• Don’t just marvel at the carpets of colour. Get down on your hands and knees to appreciate the smaller specimens that are often overshadowed by the millions of daisies.

First published in Explore SA magazine; May 2010

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