"The President of the Republic of Swellendam requests all whom it may concern to allow the bearer of this passport to pass freely without let or hindrance and to afford the bearer all necessary assistance and protection."
That's how the preamble to your little green book may have started if one Hermanus Steyn had had his way.
Back in 1746 the Dutch East India Company decided they'd had enough of free burghers disappearing beyond the Breede River and failing to pay rent to the company, and the decision was made to build a Drostdy to keep the errant farmers in line. What was once a dusty dorp soon became a thriving town, and the booming settlement was named in honour of the Dutch governor at the time, Hendrik Swellengrebel, and his wife Helena ten Damme.
Unsurprisingly, the farmers weren't too charmed with the Company keeping tabs on them and in the late 1790s they – led by Hermanus himself – forced the landdrost to resign and declared the area an independent republic. That, however, lasted all of three months until the British took control of the Cape and Steyn's global ambitions were extinguished.
Thankfully, Swellendam is a far more-laid-back place these days. The Drostdy is still there, but it's now a fine country museum (www.drostdymuseum.com) filled with tourists, not truants. Period houses and delightful rose gardens also form part of the museum complex, while the Gaol that housed runaways and renegades is home to one of the best coffee shops in the Overberg.
After indulging in their signature 'roosterkoek' it's just a short wander down the hill to Schoone Oordt, a Victorian landmark at the foot of historic Swellengrebel Street. Built in 1853, Schoone Oordt (which, fittingly, translates from Dutch as 'beautiful place') has been home to school matrons and mayors, but was in a sorry state when Richard and Alison Walker discovered the property in 2003.
Four years of painstaking restoration followed, with the couple – along with friend and partner Roy Hunter – giving the magnificent manor house a new lease on life. Paint was stripped, furniture was restored and new life was breathed into this National Monument. The addition of eight guest suites and a honeymoon cottage scattered around the lush grounds has made this a charming country escape for the weekend.
Not that you need the honeymooners hide-out for a romantic weekend away. Every suite boasts a gargantuan bed decked in quality linen and a Victorian tub big enough for two. Private patios overlooking the blooming beds of roses beg for a tipple on warm summer evenings, but when there's snow on the Langeberg behind town the bedside fireplace is laid, simply waiting to be lit.
Tastefully chosen period furniture is a credit to Richard's keen eye for antiques, and further blends the suites with the Victorian manor house. Yet another small piece of history unobtrusively tucked away in the side-streets of Swellendam.
With grain silos and factories lining the N2 you could be forgiven for driving straight past Swellendam as you zoom to and from the Garden Route or Mother City, but the town is a treasure trove of architecture and next time you're passing it's well worth giving this historic heart of the Overberg the recognition it deserves. Hermanus Steyn would be pleased.
IF YOU GO…
Where it is: Swellengrebel Street, Swellendam.
Why go there: Swellendam is perhaps the most under-rated town in the Overberg, with fascinating history and fabulous restaurants. It's the perfect overnight stop on a Garden Route trip, but is close enough for a weekend getaway from Cape Town.
What it offers: Eight gorgeous guest suites and one private honeymoon cottage tucked under the trees on the banks of the Koornlands River. Rose gardens, croquet set and a Victorian pool complete the period picture.
What it's like: A little like having good friends with a magnificent country pad. Richard's eye for detail brings the suites to life, Roy is always on hand with an entertaining tale and Alison keeps a calm maternal hand on the household.
And the food: Ali's gourmet breakfasts will set you on the right foot for a day of exploring. For dinner, the town has some fantastic eateries. Try Gianni and Cristiana Minori's La Sosta for authentic Italian fare (thankfully, not a pizza in sight!), or Koornland's Restaurant for a taste of 'Cuisine du Cap'.
What there is to see on the way: Rolling hills of wheat and canola against a backdrop of rugged Cape mountains. Take R62 for an even more scenic detour.
Rates: From R550 - R850 per person sharing until 30 November, and R600 - R925 from 1 December to 30 November 2009. Low season specials valid until 31 August.
Getting there: Follow the N2 from Cape Town for 240kms. Take the second exit to Swellendam which leads you into Swellengrebel Street.
Contact: Telephone 028-514-1248 or email
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. Visit www.schooneoordt.co.za for more information and online bookings.
This article originally appeared in The Sunday Times on August 3, 2008.
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