22 Jun |
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 "What did she just say?" I asked my ever-patient guide Joe. "Fish stomach," he beamed. "She's saying that those are the steamers with Steamed Pork Wrapped in Fish stomach. I'll get you some." In a minute he was back, an armful of steamers filled with more delicacies of Cantonese cuisine. The fish stomach actually wasn't bad… a little spongey and tasteless, but edible. The "White Cloud Phoenix Talons" or bak wun fung jau was an altogether different story. Try as I might, I just can't do chicken feet. Especially not when you pop the whole steamed talon into your mouth and roll it around. Nope, not for me. I won't tell you about the steamed duck feet either. The kitchens of Hong Kong may offer a mouth-watering range of dishes from all over China, but the city is the home of Cantonese cuisine and the humble dim sum dumplings are far and away the city's favourite snack. Dim sum literally means "to touch the heart" and the sight of a table full of bamboo steamers is sure to bring a smile to your face. Hong Kong boasts the world's best dim sum chefs, but there are few better places to try these steamed delicacies than the work-a-day Lan Fong Yuen. It might be slap-bang in the heart of Central, a glitzy district on Hong Kong Island, but this is a place that hasn't changed much since it first threw open its doors in the 1920s. The fans just barely get the humid air moving and those grumpy old men topping up your teapot look like they've poured one kettle too many. But there's a reason this place is buzzing any day of the week… the food is outstanding, and affordable. Over 400 people cram into this restaurant at any one time, the communal tables seating anywhere from six to 10 diners. Fold in your elbows and grab a seat wherever you can. Before you tuck in, wash your chopsticks with the first pot of tea and leave the lid off for a refill. Can't trust those dishwashers it seems! Well-fed and ready to hit the streets, you'll be spoilt for places to explore. Perhaps a ride on the Ngong Ping 360 cableway to see the giant seated Buddha at Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island? Peaceful temples and a 268-step climb lead you to, if not enlightenment itself, the foot of the world's largest outdoor seated Buddha. Politics plays a role even in this peaceful spot though and the Buddha, which was built shortly before Hong Kong was handed back to China, faces north; blessing the Motherland. From Po Lin you can follow the winding road through the rainforest to the long and laid-back Cheung Sha Beach for a swim. It's also not far to the tumble-down fishing village of Tai O, a rare example of a traditional Chinese stilt-village built over the waters of the South China Sea. Stop in at the rarely-visited Kwan Yam Temple, with its breathtaking views. Seldom visited by tourists, the tranquil temple is maintained by a handful of female monks who tend to the shrine's main attraction; the serene 10 000 Buddha Temple. Sound a bit sedate for you? Hong Kong has two fantastic theme parks to keep young ones, and the young-at-heart, happy. Lantau Island is home to Hong Kong Disneyland; the fifth and smallest Disneyland park in the world where Mickey and his assorted friends entertain guests in English, Cantonese and Mandarin. Open since 2005, it is riding on the coat-tails of Hong Kong's legendary attraction; Ocean Park. With roller-coasters, aquariums and over a dozen rides – all connected with a scenic gondola system – it's no surprise this entertainment venue on Hong Kong Island draws nearly five million visitors each year. But it's not just about family fun. This is a city of lights that puts Paris to shame in the romance stakes. The best place to escape the crowds is with a romantic stroll along Bowen's Walk, a tree-lined promenade hugging the hillside above the bustling Wan Chai district. Perched just above the last row of skyscrapers, and offering fantastic views of the city below, Bowen’s Walk winds its way through the forest and offers one of Hong Kong’s most delightful, and peaceful, spots. Be sure to stop in at 'Lover’s Rock', a small temple which draws couples from far and wide to pray for a happy marriage. Mrs Chiu, who has looked after the temple for over 40 years, is on hand each day with incense, candles and paper lotus flowers to offer to the gods in exchange for a good love life. Come sunset the romance continues as the Hong Kong skyline becomes a blaze of colour as skyscrapers light up the sky. As the shadows lengthen head straight for the pier on Victoria Harbour and hop on-board the Aqua Luna. Built in the style of the traditional Chinese junks that have plied these waters for hundreds of years, the open-air top deck – cocktail and significant other at your side – is the perfect place to watch the sun slip behind the hills of Hong Kong Island. In the darkness, the best spot to view the twinkling city lights is from the top of the famous Victoria Peak. The Peak Tram runs from Central to the top of the peak at least every 10 minutes, offering one of the most memorable views on earth as it scales the impossibly steep hills en route to the top. At the summit, the Peak Tower offers 270° views of Hong Kong Island and across to Kowloon. The Peak Tower restaurant is also a popular spot for dinner by candle- (and city-) light a deux, offering awesome views and some of the best cuisine in the city. Just below the peak is another of the city's top restaurants. The Yung Kee Restaurant in Wellington Street, Central, draws local celebrities and tourists in the know to sample the eatery's famous Roast Goose. Yung Kee may now attract the A-list crowd, but it started life with somewhat humbler ambitions. Back in 1942 Mr. Kam Shui Fai's 'restaurant' was a humble cooked food stall in Kwong Yuen West Street, but word of his Roast Goose has spread far and wide and since the 1960s it has been one of the city's most popular restaurants. The dish that made him famous is the main draw card, but the menu offers quite a few other Chinese delicacies for the daring diner. Bird's Nest soup is a pricey yet popular choice, while Shark's Fin, Pigeon and Frog all come flying out of the kitchen. If you're not an adventurous eater there is a range of other chicken, beef and seafood dishes to enjoy. As you savour your last sip of Jasmine tea, sit back and wonder what tomorrow might hold. Can't decide between a visit to the quaint village and outdoor seafood restaurants of Sai Kung, or a wander through the shops of Tsim Sha Tsui? Perhaps the fortune tellers of the Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin temple can help. However, you don't want to come face to face with your destiny dressed in your drab travelling gear. Kowloon's Nathan Road is famous for its clothing shops and bespoke tailors, but ignore the cut-price touts and head straight for Hong Kong's most famous man of the cloth. Sam’s Tailor has whipped up natty threads for everyone from Princess Di to Bill Clinton and Nelson Mandela… and has the thank-you letters from his famous clients adorning the walls to prove it! His tiny shop in a small arcade off Nathan Road has become a regular stop for presidents and princes visiting Hong Kong. With suits starting at a few thousand rand it’s not the cheapest in town, but for perfectly tailored suits and shirts it’s certainly money well spent. If your pocket is more suited to pauper than prince, then best to head for one of Hong Kong's many clothing shops offering everything from international labels to cut-price knock-offs. Not too concerned about the pedigree of the label? The Ladies Market and Temple Street Market are the place to be, where the regular cry of "Hello Missy Sir! Handbag, copy watch?" makes it pretty clear that this is where you come to shop on a budget. It's a vibrant stew of stalls, restaurant and street performers where confident bargaining and feigning disinterest in that fake-Fendi will knock a third off the asking price. So, suitably attired it's time to see what the future has in store, and in the 'fragrant harbour' there is only one place to visit. The wafts of incense assault the senses the moment you leave the MTR station and you simply follow your nose to the Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin temple. Surrounded by soaring apartment blocks, the temple is a small slice of serenity amongst the busy northern neighbourhoods of Kowloon on the Chinese Mainland. Locals come here to present offerings (including whole suckling pigs!) and burn incense to the gods in the hope that their prayers will be answered. Ask a local to show you how a handful of burning incense and the clatter of fortune sticks on the flagstones can be the first steps on the path to happiness. But back to those fortune tellers. Once you've let a single fortune stick emerge from the pile, wander down to the rows of mystics who will reveal your future in a parable. Being born in the year of the snake my outlook wasn't fantastic, so I agreed to heed the teller's advice and be cautious. All that future-gazing tends to work up an appetite, and if there's a man who has elevated cuisine to a religion of his own it's Alvin Yeung Jr. Not one to ignore a challenge, Leung has given the boundaries of Chinese cuisine a shove and brought molecular gastronomy to Asia with what he bills as 'X-treme Chinese Cuisine'. With a degree in science it's no surprise that he's dedicated his time in the kitchen to picking apart the flavours of Chinese cooking and reassembling them in an unrecognisable, yet strangely familiar, form. "I want to challenge the traditional style of Chinese cooking and eating," says Leung and, judging by the crowds of the city's young and beautiful gracing his tables one Friday evening in early summer, he's touched a nerve. The 'Chef's Menu' at his restaurant – Bo Innovation – doesn't come cheap, but for a gourmet adventure it's worth every well-spent dollar. A Sashimi of Tuna Belly comes dusted with foie gras powder and served with tweezers, while the traditionally salty and heavy 'Yun Nam Ham' surprises every diner with its petite serving of ham-infused jelly. Traditional cooking infused with a hefty dose of entrepreneurial spirit and the glitz of Asia's most exciting city. Bo Innovation is a mirror to the rest of Hong Kong; breaking new ground while keeping one foot firmly rooted in the past. From Feng Shui masters and fortune tellers to world-class entertainment and an über-modern Asian tiger, Hong Kong is certainly a place where tradition and modernity collide. Now, I wonder if there's any fish stomach still on offer at Lan Fong Yuen…
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