I’m not a city person. Give me soaring snow-capped peaks rather than cityscapes any day of the week. But Hong Kong… aah, that’s a different story altogether. This is not just any city. It’s the most exciting city on the planet.
Sure, some might argue that New York deserves that moniker, but where else can you worship a Buddha before a dim sum breakfast, deal in global equities mid-morning before grabbing McDonalds for lunch, enjoy an English high-tea at one of the world’s finest hotels and then feast on 100-year-old eggs, bird’s nest soup and fried goose tongue for dinner? You want a taste of East meets West? You can’t beat Hong Kong.
Just one problem though… it’s not cheap. If you’ve got cash to burn then China’s ‘fragrant harbour’ is your own private playground, but on a budget you need to get a little clever about how you spend your dollars. Here’s where to start…
No man is an island
Although Hong Kong is made up of dozens of islands, the best place to start is on the mainland on the Kowloon peninsula. This is the throbbing heart of Hong Kong where you’ll find the famous Nathan Road, a wide range of accommodation (whatever you do, avoid the infamous Chungking Mansions if you can) and great shopping. It’s not as glitzy as Hong Kong Island (more on that later), but you couldn’t ask for a better taste of nitty gritty Hong Kong.
Most tourists head for Tsim Sha Tsui at the southern end of Nathan Road. To get your bearings, take a stroll along the Avenue of Stars - Hong Kong’s answer to Hollywood Boulevard - for a gander over the famous Victoria Harbour and to pose with the statue of local hero Bruce Lee. Karate poses are optional.
Tsim Sha Tsui is also where you’ll find some of the best hotels in Hong Kong. The Peninsula is Hong Kong’s Mount Nelson, and offers unmatchable five-star luxury… at a price of course. If nothing else, find an excuse to head to the top-floor Felix bar for the ultimate men’s loo with a view. If it’s views you’re after, the Sheraton Hong Kong across Nathan Road is the place to be. Their Sky Lounge offers one of the best views in town of the nightly (at 8pm) 'Sound and Light Spectacular', the largest permanent laser and light show on earth. www.starwoodhotels.com/sheraton/hongkong & http://hongkong.peninsula.com
Hit the steamy streets
Drag yourself away from the air-conditioning though and let the steamy sounds and smells of Nathan Road envelope you as you dodge tourists, touts and traders for a stroll north towards the famous Temple Street market.
It’s a vibrant area of stalls, restaurants and street performers where the cries of “Hello Missy Sir! Handbag, copy watch?” makes it pretty clear that this is where you come to shop on a budget. As with markets everywhere, sharp bargaining skills and feigning disinterest in that fake-Fendi will help you knock at least 30 percent off the price.
For reliable electronics, avoid the bright lights of Nathan Road and shop with the locals at the Mong Kok computer centre in Tung Choi Street. More into window shopping? Make sure you take a turn through the fascinating Goldfish, Flower and Yuen Po Bird market. For something a little more spiritual, grab a taxi and head for the stunning Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple. Surrounded by high-rise apartments, the scene of chic city-slickers carrying whole roast pigs to offer is quite a sight. The temple is also famous for its fortune tellers, who will explain your future in an ever-so-slightly mysterious parable.
What should definitely be in your future is to head south of Victoria Harbour to Hong Kong Island.
The clean, fast and efficient Mass Transit Railway (buy a pre-paid Oyster card when you arrive for easy access) will zip you from Kowloon across to the Island in just a few minutes, but why rail, when you can sail?
Do pay the ferryman
OK, so the Star Ferry doesn’t really sail, but for great views of Victoria Harbour it’s a few dollars well spent. Step off the Star Ferry and you can almost feel the money oozing out of the high-rise towers on Hong Kong Island. The suburbs of Central and Wan Chai are the financial hub of Hong Kong - home to the likes of HSBC and Bank of America - so it’s the place to come if you want to hang with expat bankers and Hong Kong’s nouveau riche. Despite the tacky Irish pubs aimed at expat bankers, the area is also home to some of the city’s top restaurants. www.mtr.com.hk & www.starferry.com.hk
You’ll need to book a few days in advance to get a table at Yung Kee (32-40 Wellington Street, Central), which offers authentic Cantonese cuisine. Roast goose with plum sauce has been their signature dish since opening 65 years ago, attracting everyone from government high-fliers to local gourmands. Save up your dollars and have at least one meal here.
For something a little more low-key, Shui Hu Ju (68 Peel Street, Central) is a cosy little place at the top of the steep streets of Central. It’s so tucked away that you won’t find many tourists here… there isn’t even a sign outside, so just look out for the Chinese entrance with two red lanterns outside. Feeling brave? Order the explosive Deep Fried Chicken with Sichuan Chilis. Watch out for the home-made litchi wine though, or you could find it a struggle to make your way down the steep streets to the glitzy Lan Kwai Fong nightclub district. http://www.yungkee.com.hk & http://www.aqua.com.hk
After dinner, a visit to the top of Victoria Peak (think Rio’s Sugarloaf in Asia) is obligatory. The Peak Tram’s slow climb up the steep Peak is thrilling enough, but on top you’ll be rewarded (provided that the weather is clear) with one of the most breathtaking cityscapes on the planet. www.thepeak.com.hk
Not a city-slicker?
Surprisingly, a visit to Hong Kong doesn’t have to be all about the city. If you feel the need for some greenery, grab a taxi (or a bus, but taxis aren’t too expensive) and head to the small resort town of Stanley in the south of Hong Kong Island. There’s a great market here for clothes and souvenirs, and the whole place has the feel of a seaside holiday town far from the madding crowds. Fancy a swim? Stop off at the stunning Repulse Bay along the way, but make sure you stick to the areas protected by bathing nets - the South China Sea is filled with sharks who wouldn’t mind a nibble.
Neighbouring Lantau Island is also worth exploring for a day. Apart from Disneyland Hong Kong, the main attraction is the world's largest outdoor seated Buddha, towering 26-metres above the hillside. It's a 268-step climb from the peaceful temples below, but well worth the effort to see this Hong Kong icon up close. For more great views, avoid the 54 minute bus ride from the MTR to Pol Linm and take the Ngong Ping 360 cableway instead. Pricey, but worth it. www.np360.com.hk
This article originally appeared in the Out There Travel Guide.
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