Your first steps onto the streets of Bangkok are likely to be a shock to the system. The traffic-clogged streets, bustling markets and glitzy malls are a world away from the paradise islands and serene temples you were expecting, but take a deep breath, drop your bags and embrace the capital of the ‘Land of Smiles’.
It may sound like trite brochure-speak, but Thailand is quite easily the friendliest country on earth, and everyone from the tuk-tuk driver to your waiter will be only too happy to chat and offer help if you need it.
Bangkok is also home to its fair share of tourists sights, and most visitors head straight for the Grand Palace, a gorgeous gleaming complex on the banks of the Chao Phraya River that’s home to some of the country’s most magnificent temples. A few steps away you’ll also find Wat Po, the oldest temple in Bangkok and home to the colossal 45-metre Reclining Buddha. The outer courtyards are also worth exploring, and Wat Po is home to a famous school of Thai massage. If you feel the need to have some kinks ironed out just pitch up and wait your turn. Across the Chao Phraya, the mosaics of Wat Arun gleam in the sunlight and the temple is worth visiting on one of the popular river cruises.
Bangkok has dozens of attractions to keep you busy, but if the crowds get too much there are wonderful day trips to consider: don’t miss the 14th century ruins in historic Ayutthaya, or west to the Damnoen Saduak floating markets and the war memorials of Kanchanaburi; home of the famous ‘Bridge on the River Kwai’.
When you’re done with Bangkok you really have two choices: south to the islands, or north to the jungles. The country may be vast, but it’s surprisingly easy to explore on long-distance buses and an extensive network of domestic flights. However, the train system is ideal for independent travellers and offers air-conditioned carriages and comfy seats that fold down into spacious bunk beds with linen supplied!
The train tracks north will undoubtedly lead you to Chiang Mai, gateway to the jungles of the far north where elephant trekking, river rafting and visits to the hill tribes will keep you buys for days on end. Over 800 years old, Chiang Mai is the relaxed Cape Town to Bangkok’s Johannesburg, and the perfect place to slowly soak up local culture or perhaps try your hand at a Thai cooking course.
Sooner or later though, the beaches will beckon, and Thailand is famous for its palm-fringed sands that fall into aquamarine seas; the picture-postcard of paradise.
Ko Samui in the Gulf of Thailand and Phuket on the Andaman Sea are still popular with package tourists, but can be crowded in the high season. For sand with a bit of space rather head further south to Ko Lanta and its Marine National Park, or west to Ko Chang and the far-flung Ko Tarutao.
It’ll take a little longer, but the jealousy on your friends’ faces – and the grin on yours – when you show them where you spent your holiday will make it all the more worthwhile. Perhaps Thailand is the ‘Land of Smiles’ after all.
If you’re planning your second trip to Thailand and have ticked all the major sights, don’t miss out on these top spots a little off the beaten track.
- Sangkhlaburi: in the far west of the country, a stone’s throw from Myanmar, this small country town is way off the beaten track. Like all border towns it’s a mish-mash of cultures and languages, and is becoming a good spot to go elephant- and jungle-trekking without the crowds of Chiang Mai.
- Ko Tao: Avoid the crowds on nearby Ko Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan and head for this tiny slice of sand. It’s the ideal place to finally get that scuba qualification you’ve always dreamt of, as the courses are cheap and there are dozens of coral reefs to gawk at. With a name like ‘Turtle Island’ you may just bump into a few too!
- Khao Sok National Park: Dust the sand off your shoes and head for the verdant jungles of Surat Thani province. Together with its four neighbouring parks Khao Sok forms the largest nature reserve on the Thai peninsula and offers spectacular trekking. Discover thundering waterfalls, 180 species of bird, an explosion of flowers and, if you’re exceptionally lucky, spot the resident wild elephants, leopard, dusky langurs and Malayan sun bears. Don’t forget the binoculars!
First published in HighFlyers magazine, February 2010
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