It was almost a cliché. As we crested the rise of Calton Hill, one of the seven hills surrounding the city, the sound of bagpipes wafted up from the historic streets below. The Firth of Forth glistened to the north, Princes Street stretched out below us like a strip of shopper-friendly tartan and Arthur's Seat sat looming to our right. Bagpipes, Check. Grey Skies, Check. An ancient Castle, Check. Stunning architecture, great shopping and friendly locals, Check. Yup, I had well and truly arrived in Edinburgh.
Calton Hill is certainly the best place to begin any tour of the Scottish capital. The stiff walk will make your legs forget all about the long-haul flight, there are interesting monuments to explore and it’s the ideal place to get your bearings in Scotland’s city of spires.
Views aside, the highlight of Calton Hill, rising from the eastern end of Princes Street, is without doubt the magnificent Nelson's Monument. Built in 1807, the tower resembles an upturned telescope and commemorates Admiral Horatio Nelson's historic victory over the French at the Battle of Trafalgar two years earlier.
From the top of the tower it's easy to see the layout of modern Edinburgh; with Princes Street and the Royal Mile running parallel to the west, separated by the peaceful Princes Street Gardens. Princes Street is Edinburgh's answer to London's buzzing Oxford Circus, with brand name boutiques and department stores beckoning shoppers to part with their pounds.
It's not all about the shopping though. One of the highlights of Princes Street is the towering Walter Scott Monument; a Gothic spire in memory of one of the country’s most famous writers, the author of Scottish classics 'Ivanhoe' and 'Rob Roy'. The four pillars and central tower of the monument may look unassailable, but for a few coins and a bit of puffing you can ascend the 287 steps to the summit for fantastic views over Edinburgh and beyond. You’ll also get to look down on the statue of David Livingstone, another of the city's famous sons.
Falling away below Princes Street, and lying at the foot of Castle Hill, is the pleasant Princes Street Gardens; a great place to get some air and stretch your legs, or grab a sandwich and watch the world go by. During the festive season the Gardens host a traditional German Christmas Market, the Edinburgh Wheel and a large outdoor ice rink.
… Witch trials were a simple affair...
It wasn’t always such a cheerful spot though. In days gone by, the gardens were covered by the dark waters of Loch Nor' (the north Loch); a putrid pool of water, faeces and rubbish tumbling down from the residents of the Old Town on the hills above. Apart from playing the unusual dual role of both sewer and well, Loch Nor was also a popular spot for witch trials.
The trial was a simple affair. If you were accused of being a witch you’d be thrown into the Loch, hands and feet bound. If you sank like a stone you were declared innocent and would receive a Christian burial. Float to the surface and you were, without doubt, a witch and would be strangled or burnt at the stake. Charming.
From the gardens, tackle the stiff walk up The Mound to the famous Royal Mile, the heart of historic Edinburgh. For all its fame as one of the world's great walkways, it's a curious mix of history and modern high street, where cobbled lanes and centuries-old churches sit cheek by jowl with tacky shops selling tourist tat.
As you wander down the Royal Mile, keep your eyes open for small alleys and hidden closes.
Covenant Close inspires visions of meetings in the shadows and oaths to the cause, but one can only wonder how Fleshmarket Close got its name. Whatever its origins, it's an apt name for the strip of trendy student hangouts that line the road today.
From Fleshmarket it's a choice of down the hill to Holyrood House, or up to Edinburgh Castle… and you simply can’t come to Edinburgh and not visit the Castle!
Looming over the city from its rocky seat atop an extinct volcano, the Castle is as dear to the city as Big Ben is to London. But perhaps don't mention the English in these parts… the Scots have a long and chequered history with their southern neighbours and the Castle has seen its fair share of battles between Scots and English. There has been a fortress here for over 1000 years, and it still offers fantastic views of the surrounding countryside. Visitors can also see the Scottish Crown Jewels and Scottish National War Memorial.
From the castle it’s an easy stroll down the Royal Mile to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, home to Queen Elizabeth II when she’s in town. When she’s not, visitors can tramp around the historic palace for a good look at how the other half lived.
On your way down the Royal Mile stop in at St. Giles Cathedral, whose eye-catching arches can be seen from across Edinburgh. The soaring stonework, intricate stained-glass windows and tributes to Robert Louis Stevenson and Robert Burns – two of the city's most famous sons – make it well worth a visit.
'Haggis samoosas are back!'
The Royal Mile is also your best bet for a taste of Scotland. Jackson's (209 High Street; 0131 225 1793) is where you'll find tender Scottish lamb, Haggis (with neeps and tatties, of course), salmon as well as roe deer and local scallops. The Wee Windaes (144 High St; 0131 225 5144) across the Mile is also worth a look-in for similar fare. If you just want a quick snack keep an eye out for the shop with the curious cross-cultural sign in the window: 'Haggis samoosas are back!'
The Royal Mile ends on the doorstep of Holyroodhouse; a favourite palace of Queen Victoria - who loved all things Scottish, including its men - and the Queen Mum, and history buffs will enjoy the time-warp walk through the royal history of Scotland.
The highlight of the Palace is the bed chamber of Mary Queen of Scots. Or, more specifically, the bloodstained floorboards where her adviser David Rizzio was murdered before her very eyes in 1566. This act of jealousy by Mary's husband, Lord Darnley, sparked a chain of events that would lead to her imprisonment in the Tower of London, and subsequent execution in 1587 on trumped up charges of treason.
Before you leave, be sure to take a walk through the brooding remains of Holyrood Abbey, the oldest part of the Palace. Originally a monastery founded in 1128, the looming ruins exposed to the frigid Scottish weather are what inspired Felix Mendelssohn's 'Scottish Symphony'.
… everything has a story in Edinburgh…
Feeling parched from all that walking?
It would be easy to pop into the 'Deacon Brodie' pub on the Royal Mile without giving a second thought to the name, but everything has a story in Edinburgh. Deacon Brodie may sound like an upstanding member of the community to name your pub after, but in fact he was a real-life criminal to rival the famous Jekyll and Hyde of Robert Louis Stevenson. A pious deacon by day, he was a gambler and thief by night, and fittingly met his end on the nearby gallows on 1 October 1788.
Another great place for a pint of the local brew is the Grassmarket in the shadow of the Castle.
Unlike the nearby gallows that gave it its name, 'The Last Drop' is still standing and serves a mean pint of locally-brewed Belhaven Best or Deuchars Pale Ale. Although the last person met their end at the gallows in 1864, the pub is still a great place for a drink before you leave. Unlike the poor souls who left the city for good at the end of a rope in the square outside, chances are that the charms of Edinburgh will draw you back to the city of seven hills someday.
Travel advisory:
Getting there: British Airways flies daily from Cape Town and Johannesburg to Edinburgh, via London. Visit www.ba.com or contact your travel agent.
Accommodation: Edinburgh is, like London, an expensive city to sleep in and you'll be limited only by your budget when it comes to finding a hotel. There are excellent backpackers and even better hotels on offer, or you could stay in a castle on the outskirts of town. The mid-range Mount Royal Ramada Jarvis Hotel is slap-bang in the middle of Princes Street and offers wonderful Castle views from most rooms. Visit www.ramadajarvis.co.uk.
Visa: South Africans do not currently require a visa for the United Kingdom, although your passport must be valid for six months after your date of departure.
More info: Go to www.edinburgh.org or www.visitscotland.com for help in planning your trip.
» This article originally appeared in The Saturday Star Travel 2008.
|
