A flash of iridescent blue disappears into the undergrowth, the wild peacock’s luxuriant coat of green providing perfect camouflage even in the dry days of winter. An indignant squawk lets us know that the disturbed fowl with his harem of hens still considers himself in charge here in Bandhavgarh National Park.

Beautiful he may be, but certainly not the king of this jungle. That honour goes to the reason that I and five other guests are jolting along the potholed roads of this park in India’s central Madhya Pradesh province. Panthera tigris tigris. The Bengal Tiger.

South Africa can justifiably lay claim to some of the best wildlife experiences on the planet, but despite being home to the Big Five the striped coat of the Bengal Tiger is something you won’t see in the wild in Africa. With most of the other big cats ticked off my ‘to-see’ list it was time to add one of the world’s rarest animals to the tally.

And when it comes to tiger sightings there are few better places to head for than Bandhavgarh. Situated almost slap-bang in the middle of the sub-continent, the national park is said to have the highest density of Bengal tigers in the world. Once a hunting reserve of the maharajahs, this 105km² reserve traverses a stunning landscape of thick jungle where deer, sambar, sloth bear, leopard and dozens of other species hide in the shadows.

But the word ‘jungle’ is perhaps misleading, suggesting damp and impenetrable Amazonian forests. The hills and valleys of Bandhavgarh are thick and lush, but it is glades of leafy sal trees that blanket the hillsides, while in the north of the park vast grasslands and bamboo forests offer a welcome change of scenery.

In January the monsoons have yet to arrive, and only small streams trickle through the forest to the swampy meadows. Kingfishers and egrets hunt in these boheras, but they are also prime stomping grounds for tigers hoping to catch a Spotted Deer unawares.

But it’s the warning bark of a sambar – a large antelope similar to a waterbuck – that sets our hearts racing one sunset. With the dying rays of the sun turning the boheras auburn, the sentry alerts us to a predator in the grass: the park’s dominant male is on the move. In the boughs above, acrobatic langurs chatter in excitement as they swing from tree to tree to get a better view of the action.

And likewise with the jeeps filled with eager tourists. Where tigers are involved, the national parks of India tend to be over-subscribed, and there are nearly two-dozen vehicles jostling for a view this evening.

The revving engines and chatter of tourists takes away some of the magic of the moment, but the tiger seems entirely unconcerned with either the tourists or the sambar. He wanders slowly along the riverbank, scent-marking his territory
Perhaps he was hoping that feigning disinterest might lull the deer into a false sense of security.

But this evening they’re on full alert, and so the male wanders up a hillside and disappears into the sunset. Which also marks our time to leave. Unlike most reserves in Africa, no visitors are allowed to stay overnight within the tiger reserves of Madhya Pradesh. Permits are issued for morning and afternoon game drives, and all vehicles must exit the park before sunset.

We’ve been lucky this evening, with a lengthy sighting of the park’s most impressive tiger, but I still smile at the billboard that greets visitors as they exit. Alongside a hand-painted image of a tiger, the cheeky apology: “Even if you haven’t seen me, be sure that I’ve seen you.”

On the outskirts of the park, dozens of lodges have sprung up to cater for the tourists that visit Bandhavgarh each day. There are lodges to cater for every pocket, but after a week of travelling rough through India we (well, my wife) decide that it’s time for a few home comforts. Having enjoyed their high quality safaris in Africa, we opt for the &Beyond lodge Mahua Kothi, happily just 10 minutes’ drive from the reserve.

Taking its name from the mahua, or Butter Tree, and the word kothi, for homestead, the lodge certainly feels like a home from home. Just 12 rooms dot the forests surrounding the main lodge, each decorated with the deft touch and down-to-earth luxury typical of &Beyond. Serene courtyards offer day beds for lazy afternoons, while hand-woven textiles and antique brass statues add a sensual touch of exotic India.

Evening meals are shared communally, with guests swopping tales over a fireside drink or a thali of Indian curries. Local chefs may temper the chilli to suit a Western palate, but take pride in preparing dishes from across India. Staff are largely drawn from the local villages, and – despite broken English – delight in sharing their stories. Ask for a slightly spicy masala chai and you’ll be rewarded with a broad smile and their mother’s recipe to take home with you.

A spicy chai is the perfect warming wake-up call for an early-morning game drive in the chill dawn of winter. We have no luck with tigers that morning, but we discover another highlight of Bandhavgarh; its namesake.

The park is named for the mountain that towers above the reserve, a mountain that – according to legend – was given by the Hindu Lord Rama to his brother Lakshmana to keep a watch on Lanka, the island of Ceylon. For time immemorial it has been known simply as Bandhavgarh; Sanskrit for ‘Brother's Fort’.

Primitive caves and rock paintings in the park show that people have lived here for over 2000 years, but it is the impressive ruins on the summit of the peak that delight us on our last day in the reserve.

Few people agree when the fort was built, but the best guess is that it was at least 1000 years ago.  A succession of dynasties ruled from this hilltop eyrie until the mid-1600s, but today just echoes of these peoples remain, with incredible architecture to be seen in the hilltop reservoirs and the intricate Treasury building. The Bandhavdheesh Temple is still a place of worship, with devotees making the long journey (although walking is no longer allowed) to perform puja at this ancient site.

Tiger tracks dot the dusty paths on the summit, and vultures soar on the zephyrs rising from the plains below. Is that a tiger I see stalking in the distant grassland, or just some deer finding safety in numbers? From the rocky summit of Bandhavgarh the plains of Madhya Pradesh stretch out in all directions. I might not be able to see Lanka from up here, but for travellers wary and weary of the crazy, colourful streets of India, this tiger’s eyrie is the perfect escape.

SMART TRAVELLER

• South African passport holders require a visa to visit India on holiday. Visit www.indiainsouthafrica.com for more info.
• Qatar Airways flies daily from South Africa to New Delhi (via Doha), with frequent connections to Khajuraho or Jabalpur, a few hours’ drive from the central tiger reserves. Visit www.qatarairways.com or call 011 523 2928.
• For more information on accommodation, tours and tiger spotting in India, contact &Beyond India on www.andbeyond.com, or email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .

First published in Garden&Home magazine, July 2010

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