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17

May

A pleasant surprise

It comes from Franschhoek, is fermented in steel tanks, matured underground, uses only natural Going gourmet at Dieu Donneingredients and is described as having biscuity, melted butter characters, fine bubbles and a creamy, citrus aftertaste. So it must be the latest Methode Cap Classique, Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc from the Cape's most prestigious wine region, right? Wrong…

In a valley that's long been renowned for its fine wines Dieu Donné winemaker Stephen du Toit, who recently opened the valley's first micro-brewery, has evidently lost the plot. Or has he?

"It's a lot more technical than I would ever have imagined," says Stephan who trained himself on the art of brewing beer and then composed the recipes.


Something a little different

True to the non-conformist nature of the Cross of Lorraine (as featured in the vineyard's logo), Dieu Donné's coup of offering the first micro-brewery in the winelands is just the ticket to attract visitors away from the fine wines of the area to try something a little different.

Purchasing malt from Caledon, hops from George and yeast from abroad, Dieu Donné now produces a British-style Ale, German-style Pilsner and Irish-style Stout, catering for everything from hot summer days on the terrace to chilly winter days next to the fire.

On a sweltering summer afternoon it was no surprise that the brewery was fresh out of the crisp Pilsner, which Stephan describes as having a "light straw colour, with a fine white foam cap". "The bubbles are fine leaving a long refreshing finish in the mouth."

Simply no contest

Those fine bubbles would be thanks to the more labour-intensive, but ultimately worthwhile, process of leaving yeast in the beer to react with the sugar and create those fine bubbles of carbon dioxide. Think bottle-fermented Methode Cap Classique versus a cheap and nasty carbonated sparkling wine. There's simply no contest.

With no Pilsner to be had for love or money, the unfiltered ale is certainly your next best bet for something refreshing.

"The Ale has a darker amber colour, light beige foam with small bubbles and good foaming properties," says Stephan, of the slightly bitter ale which has all the malty creaminess you'd expect of Britain's favourite beer.

For something that'll put hairs on your chest, the pitch-black Stout is the way forward. Stephan jokingly says that a teaspoon should stand up straight in this foam, but after a long hard day in the winelands the explosion of rich maltiness on the palate will have you perking up in no time.

It's all about getting back to nature, it would seem, and the concept of terroir is even applied to the beer.

"We use pure spring water in the process which is sourced right here on the farm. It's very soft water and it makes a world of difference," says Stephan.

But what good is beer without somewhere suitable to drink it?

And a 'sexy world menu'

Thank goodness then for the lovely restaurant just a few steps from the brewery, where a journey through executive chef Jo Van Staden's "sexy world menu" is the perfect way to while away an afternoon.

Built beneath a fynbos-covered hillside, the raw stone steps and bubbling water-feature at the entrance leads into a grand entrance hall dominated by dramatic chandeliers.

Once your eyes adjust to the light inside, the main attraction becomes quickly apparent and you'll be glad you asked for a seat by the window — the jaw-dropping 180° views on offer across the Franschhoek Valley and down into the village.

At sunset, the view of the Drakenstein Mountains in orange-tinted silhouette is surely one of the best the Cape has to offer.

When it comes to winelands restaurants a chef can't afford to trade on views alone, but Van Staden’s menu more than holds its own.

Collected influences


The restaurant seats up to 120, but it feels more intimate than that, with low ceilings and pillars dividing the space into more cosy chunks. Elegant cutlery and tableware make it immediately apparent that a meal at Dieu Donné is an occasion to be savoured, and yet the menu is surprisingly affordable.

"Its sexy nosh," says executive chef Jo van Staden, whose husband Gerard is executive chef of Relais Gourmand and Le Verger restaurants, situated across the valley at Le Franschhoek Hotel & Spa.

Both Jo and Gerard have travelled extensively locally and abroad and the menu at Dieu Donné reflects the influences they've collected along their travels. Starters range from the Mediterranean-style Tomato & Mozzarella tart (R45) to the more adventurous Wood-smoked Squid (R50), so there's a wide array on offer.

The slightly limited winelist features only Dieu Donné wines, but on the upside each wine is available by the glass, well-priced from R15 to R45. And, of course, there's the range of Dieu Donné beers.

A pleasant surprise


If you're enjoying the beers, make sure you try the Beer-baked Mussels that work beautifully with Stephan's Ale. Mussels and beer? The Belgians would be proud.

There's also a kiddies menu, and at lunchtime the restaurant is fairly child-friendly, but with the evening addition of setting sun and romantic dinners I imagine that a chattering child would probably win you a few glares from your fellow diners. Rather hire a babysitter.

Many of the lunchtime favourites are on offer at dinnertime too, but with the exciting addition of options like Crab Mesclun Salad for starters and a tempting main course of Lemon and Chilli Tiger Prawns. Jo's Eastern influences also come to the fore at night, with temptations such as seafood cappuccino with a saffron essence soup and salmon trout sashimi served with buchu tea soba noodles on offer.

Beer in the winelands and Asian influences in the 'French Corner'? Dieu Donné is sure to be a pleasant surprise next time you visit…

Dieu Donné Restaurant & Micro-Brewery is open from 10am – 10pm Monday to Saturday and 11am – 4pm on Sundays. Call +27 21 876 3384 or visit their website.


This article originally appeared on http://iafrica.com.

 



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