20 Nov |
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It's not bad, really, travelling up at the sharp end of a Cathay Pacific plane as it makes the globe-crossing journey from Johannesburg to Hong Kong. Comfy seats, great service and – most importantly, if you're fond of your food – outstanding cuisine. Throw in a glass or three of fine French (and South African, to be fair) wine and there really isn't a much better way to start a foodie tour of Hong Kong.  For centuries Hong Kong – the 'fragrant harbour' – has attracted traders, settlers and businessmen from across the globe, and this intoxicating blend of cultures and cuisines has made the city Asia's gourmet hotspot. Yes there's the shopping, nightlife and sightseeing, but for a real insight into how the locals live and love you need to sit down, charge your chopsticks and share a meal. Hong Kong is a "special administrative region" of Mainland China, but the Chinese influence is strong. However, if you think Chinese cuisine is some noodles thrown together with sweet 'n sour sauce then you're sorely mistaken. The kitchens of Hong Kong offer a mouth-watering range of dishes from all over China, from spicy Szechuan to salty Shanghainese. Hong Kong is the home of Cantonese cuisine though, and the delicious dim sum dumplings it's famous for are far and away the city's favourite food. …To touch the heart… Dim sum literally means "to touch the heart" and your order will usually contain three or four heart-warming portions, served at your table in a bamboo steamer straight from the kitchen. Hong Kong boasts the world's best dim sum chefs, who prepare everything from the basic har gao Shrimp Dumplings to mouth-watering steamed buns and spare ribs. A meal of dim sum is usually enjoyed as part of a yum cha ceremony, which quite literally translates to "drinking tea". A pot of aromatic green or jasmine tea is essential to enjoying dim sum, and when the tea runs out just leave the lid off to signal to the waiter that you need a top-up of boiling water. The leaves are good for at least five or six pots, so don't order a fresh one each time. You'll find dim sum restaurants across Hong Kong, but if you're looking for the authentic experience you should head straight for Lan Fong Yuen in the district of Central. This bustling restaurant opened its doors in the 1920s, and not much has changed since. The fans barely move the humid air and the old men topping up your teapot look like they've poured one kettle too many. But there's a reason this place is buzzing any day of the week. For starters, don't expect a maitre'd at the door. Over 400 people cram into this restaurant at mealtimes, and the communal tables seat anywhere from six to 10 diners. Fold in your elbows and grab a seat wherever you can. Before you tuck in, wash your chopsticks with the first pot of tea and leave the lid off for a refill. Can't trust those dishwashers it seems! Mountains of steamers trundle out of the kitchen every few minutes, and just as quickly disappear as dashing diners grab a basket, have their till slip stamped and rush back to their seat. Steamed Chicken Feet (bak wun fung jau) or Rice Noodles rolled with Pork and Fish Stomach are popular if you're feeling adventurous, or satisfy that sweet tooth with a delicious bun of Lotus Seed Paste wrapped around the yolk from a duck egg. For something a little less adventurous, but equally interesting, the Super Star Restaurant in the glitzy Times Square shopping mall is a good bet. Bright lights, linen tablecloths and hundreds of happily munching diners make this a good spot to ease into dim sum. Through the glass-walled kitchen you can see an army of chefs steaming up the windows as they pile basket upon basket of dim sum. Super Star is also known for taking a comic look at this Cantonese treat, so don't be surprised if your Shrimp Dumpling comes out in the shape of Nemo, or you find a small steamed penguin in your basket. It's not for the traditionalists, but in a city where innovation is king the kitchen at Super Star is certainly pulling in the punters. …When the sun goes down… In Hong Kong, dim sum is usually only eaten until mid-afternoon, so come evening-time you'll find a completely different menu to tease your taste buds. When the sun goes down, head straight for the top of Victoria Peak to be dazzled by the view of the city lights below. The Peak Tram (R32) runs every 10 to 15 minutes from 7am until midnight, and is the perfect way to work up an appetite or walk off your dinner! Luckily, some of the best restaurants in the city are to be found on the steep streets of Central just below the tram station. The Yung Kee Restaurant in Wellington Street, Central, draws everyone from celebrities to tourists in the know, but started life with somewhat humbler ambitions. Back in 1942 Mr. Kam Shui Fai's 'restaurant' was a humble cooked food stall in Kwong Yuen West Street, but the word of his Roast Goose spread far and wide and since the 1960s it has been one of the city's most popular eateries. The dish that made him famous is far and away the main draw card, but the menu offers quite a few other Chinese delicacies for the daring diner. Bird's Nest soup is a pricey yet popular choice, while Shark's Fin, Pigeon and Frog all come flying out of the kitchen. If you're not an adventurous eater there are dozens of other chicken, beef and seafood dishes to enjoy. You can even enjoy Braised Abalone flown in from… South Africa. Tables at Yung Kee are reserved months in advance, and if you want to eat at any of the city's top restaurants it pays to be organised. The tiny Alcove, clinging to the top of Peel Street in Central, is even more likely to be booked up. This low-key addition to the gourmet scene has just a handful of tables and offers 'private dining'; a new trend in Hong Kong eating. The menu changes daily and the emphasis is on personal attention and an innovative look at classic Chinese dishes. Stir-fried Green Beans, Chinese Kale with Garlic Sauce and Scrambled Egg with Crab Meat are all favourites dished up with immaculate attention to detail. Dark wood panelling, jazz in the background and eclectic décor make this a far cry from the typically bright-and-brash Chinese restaurant, and the perfect romantic hideaway amongst the Hong Kong skyscrapers. When it comes to pushing the boundaries of Chinese cuisine though, none has given them as much of a shove as Alvin Leung Jr. Leung has brought molecular gastronomy to Asia with what he bills as 'X-treme Chinese Cuisine'. With a degree in science it's no surprise that he's dedicated his time in the kitchen to picking apart the flavours of Chinese cooking and reassembling them in an unrecognisable, yet strangely familiar, form. The 'Chef's Menu' at his restaurant – 'Bo Innovation – doesn't come cheap, but for a gourmet adventure it's worth every well-spent dollar. A Sashimi of Tuna Belly comes dusted with foie gras powder and served with tweezers, while the traditionally salty and heavy 'Yun Nam Ham' surprises every diner with its petite serving of ham-infused jelly. "I want to challenge the traditional style of Chinese cooking and eating," says Leung and, judging by the crowds of the city's young and beautiful gracing his tables one Friday evening in early summer, he's touched a nerve. From backstreet cafes that haven't changed for decades to restaurants serving a dollop of glamour with your gau, dining out in Hong Kong is just like the city itself. Innovation and glitz grab the headlines, but underlying everything is a deep-rooted respect for the past. Tradition abounds, but behind every bright light in the fragrant harbour there's something new waiting to be discovered. TRAVEL ADVISORY
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