02 Sep |
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 If this dictionary definition of synergy is what the restaurateurs behind Synergy on 7 had in mind, then the jury is still out on whether this stylish Mother City eatery lives up to its namesake.This is not to say that the restaurant doesn't have a few good things going for it. Tucked away on the… yup, you guessed it… seventh floor of Mandela Rhodes Place, the multi-million rand development in the heart of the Cape Town CBD, Synergy on 7 evidently has its eye on attracting the city's trendy dining set. Trying to be the new 'Antique'? Luxuriant banquettes, sleek décor and minimalist furniture are reflected in the mirrored pillars to offer what could easily be a pretender to Antique's since-departed throne when it comes to fine dining above ground level. With just a handful of diners on a chilly winter's night it feels a little cold and impersonal, but with tables spilling out onto the pool deck it's not hard to see how this could be an ideal spot for dining al fresco on a still summer's evening. So far, so good, as décor and setting are an important part of the synergy that makes up a good restaurant. Or perhaps that should be a trinity, rather than synergy, for in my mind it's the atmosphere/décor, service and food that combine to define a dining experience as great or ghastly. Which is why the service is slightly jarring in the glitzy confines of the seventh floor of Mandela's namesake. What the uninitiated diner may not realise is that Synergy on 7, in addition to billing itself as a night-time "theatre of dining", is also the restaurant for residents of the hotel-apartments offered upstairs by Three Cities. And, unfortunately, it shows. While the waitrons are as friendly and accommodating as can be, the staff lack the polish you'd expect of a restaurant charging upwards of R120 for a main course. Although there was no red wine spilt in laps or plates stacked at tables, there's equally a lack of the immediate warmth and 'second sense' that diners at the city's top restaurant have come to expect from waitrons. In a nutshell, there's not much synergy between décor and service, with the former outclassing the latter. And so, to the last member of the trinity: the food. 'Classic-meets-modern affair' The menu promises a "classic-meets-modern affair", and the selection certainly offers an intriguing range of dishes. Seafood features prominently on the menu, which leans towards Europe with a dash of Asia thrown in for interest. Prawn Tails with Calamari, complemented by Lemongrass and Sweet Chilli served with Spring Roll Pastry is one of the highlights amongst the starters, while the Onion & Tomato Tart served with Boccancino and Herb Salad will delight vegetarians. Home Cured Norwegian Salmon served with Parmesan Crisps was wonderfully fresh and well-presented. Norwegian salmon is also one of the best main courses on offer, encrusted in sesame seeds and served with pumpkin and coriander gnocchi. At R125 it's on the steep side for fish, but given that it's been flown 15 000 kilometres that's understandable. But that's no excuse for the Grilled Linefish for R135... at that price I expect it to be brought, still flapping, straight from the boat once I place my order. The same goes for the Roast Rack of Lamb with Pistachio Crust and Truffle Vegetables, and the Char-Grilled Ostrich Fillets with Sweet Potato Mash. Both dishes are delicious, well-cooked and hard to fault… but at R145 are hard to justify for average portions that hardly blow your taste buds back. Desserts are more reasonably-priced, but fail to rouse much interest from the palate. The wine-list is wide-ranging and offers an excellent selection from South African estates, but at a hefty mark-up. Even with a fairly steep R45 corkage charge it is worth bringing your own. In a city with no shortage of excellent restaurants and a shrinking pool of wallet-conscious diners, any eatery expecting diners to part with up to R250 per head of their hard-earned cash has to score top-marks on the trinity of décor, service and food. Synergy on 7 tries hard to hit the right notes on all three, but in the end the result is less than the sum of its parts. It hits the mark on some and tries valiantly with others, but in the end is simply not up to the prices being charged. The restaurant also offers a range of breakfasts and light lunches, although these were not sampled for this review. Synergy on Seven, Rhodes Mandela Place, corner Wale and Burg Street. Call +27 21 481 400 for reservations. This review originally appeared on http://food.iafrica.com. Add this page to your favorite Social Bookmarking websites            |