I’m not really a big-city person; give me a pebbled path over packed pavement any day. I’d rather be immersed in the great outdoors than cheek-by-jowl in the urban jungle. But New York? Well, this is a city that combines the best of both.
It may be home to a few million people, but thankfully the island of Manhattan is about more than skyscrapers and subway rides. Since Central Park was first laid out in 1876 the city planners have ensured that New Yawkers have some of the world’s best urban parks to relax, picnic, jog, cycle and sweat in.
Which is just as well, because after a few days in the maelstrom of Times Square and the busy streets of the Lower East Side, I’m about ready to discover a little greenery.
New York is a city of walkers, and whether I was ambling along the Highline or sweating it out with the speed walkers in Central Park, I was never short of company. Even on a crisp autumn morning in Battery Park the locals were out in force. Whether you visit in leafy summer or skeletal winter, the wooded pathways of this park on the tip of Manhattan make up one of the city’s loveliest open spaces.
Out across the Hudson River the Statue of Liberty, a gift from the people of France, glistens in the choppy harbour waters. Since 1886 she has welcomed visitors and immigrants, millions of whom entered the USA through nearby Ellis Island. If you don’t want to fork out for a ticket, hop on the free Staten Island ferry from the eastern edge of Battery Park for a great close-up view of the Statue. She’s smaller, but more beautiful, than you expect.
Battery Park blends seamlessly into the riverside promenade of Battery Park City, an enormous strip of reclaimed land created by soil dug for the foundations of the Twin Towers. Gleaming office and apartment blocks tower over a broad, leafy promenade where joggers, cyclists and roller-bladers enjoy a world away from the bustle of Manhattan.
After 30 minutes walking the greenery runs out though, and you’ll need to brave the crowds for a subway ride uptown to Greenwich Village. A single subway trip costs $2.25, so it’s usually cheaper to buy an unlimited-use Metro card for 24-hours ($8.50) or seven days ($27).
Take the A-train up to 4th Street where you’ll find the delightful Washington Square; the first of four wonderful parks in central Manhattan that you’d miss out on if you weren’t exploring the city on foot.
When the sun comes out the Square bursts into life as chess-players do battle at the board-tables, buskers unclip instrument cases and tourists snap away at the Memorial Arch framing the Empire State Building. Take a turn past the Greek Revival townhouses on the park’s northern edge; the reclusive artist Edward Hopper once lived and worked at #3 Washington Square North, while the apartment at #11 was the setting for Will Smith’s apocalyptic ‘I Am Legend’.
Make your way through the bustle of college students and go seven blocks – at a brisk walk it’ll take about 10 minutes – up University Place to Union Square. The park pales in comparison to Washington Square, but redeems itself with the city’s finest farmers’ market.
Small-scale producers from across New York State set up shop four days a week (Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat) from 8am-6pm with gourmet offerings like hot apple cider, fresh breads, artisanal cheese, fruit and farm produce. It’s a great spot to stock up if you’re self-catering, or to whip together a picnic.
If you feel like throwing your low-fat diet to the wind, sneak up to the legendary Shake Shack on the leafy lanes of Madison Square a few blocks north. On sunny days you could spend over 30 minutes in the queue for a ShackBurger and hand-spun shake, but locals swear it’s worth the wait. Besides, you’ll walk off the calories in no time, so splurge on what is easily the best burger in the city.
If you need proof about what walking can do for your figure, just take a look at the locals striding past you. New Yorkers are the exception that proves the rule about Americans being unfit and overweight. The streets may be jammed with traffic, but the sidewalks are equally crammed with locals using leg power to get around.
After all, this is a city made for walking and if you’re stuck in an underground subway or a gridlocked taxi you’ll miss out on half the highlights.
Highlights like the famous Flatiron Building on the corner of Broadway and Fifth. Built in 1902, it was the city’s first skyscraper at a towering 20 stories! Your legs may be tiring as you stride up Fifth Avenue towards Bryant Park, but crane your neck and gaze upwards for an energizing view of the Empire State Building. It’s a must-do attraction, but keep walking for now – it’s best to visit mid-morning to avoid the long queues.
After 25 minutes of sidewalk dodgems you’ll stumble into Bryant Park, the glamorous green lung in the heart of Manhattan. Well-funded by corporate donations, the free classical concerts and film festivals draw the crowds here in summer. Beyond the park’s elegant row of oaks you’ll find the neo-classical New York Public Library, which is worth a quick visit to admire the frescoed Rose Reading Room that stretches two city blocks.
If architecture’s your thing, the famous Radiator Building is to the south of the park and lofty Grand Central Terminal is just two blocks away. There’s a free tour Wednesdays at 12.30pm.
But enough of the city already! It’s been a few hours hard walking and countless blocks of pavement, and it’s time to find some more parkland. Across town in Chelsea ¬– a brisk 45-minute walk away – a rusty elevated railway that once carried freight from the Hudson River to the Meatpacking District has been transformed into the sleek Highline Park.
Running from West 20th Street south to Gansevoort, the elevated Highline Park allows joggers and walkers (no cyclists allowed) to cover 20 blocks of the city without battling the pavements. Minimalist benches (and even sun loungers) are moulded into the concrete pathways that wind through beds planted with indigenous grasses and hardy shrubs. It’s got all the style of Scandinavia with the grittiness of New York City.
Quite unlike rambling Central Park ¬– a short ride away on the ‘A’ train – which feels a world away from the urban jungle. Covering 840 acres of prime Manhattan real estate that’s said to be worth over $500-billion, Central Park is worth every penny to New Yorkers who flock to the shady glades, open fields and jogging tracks to escape their high-rise apartments.
The massive park is almost impossible to cover in a single visit, so if you’re short on time it’s best to choose what you want to see. The park is divided roughly in two by The Reservoir, and while the northern park has a wilder feel and is a good spot to avoid the crowds, most of the best attractions are down south.
Seemingly fenced in by skyscrapers, the lush Sheep Meadow was home to a flock of its namesake until 1934, but is today the ideal place to toss a Frisbee or lay out your picnic.
It’s also a good spot to start your wanderings. Keep to the Western edge and you can pay homage to John Lennon at ‘Strawberry Fields’, which is opposite the Dakota building where he was shot in 1980. There are normally buskers ignoring the signs and strumming ‘Imagine’ for tips.
To the north, ‘The Lake’ is a popular spot for couples to get romantic with a lazy (and usually circular) glide across the water in a rowing boat. From the Loeb Boathouse (home to an excellent, but pricey restaurant) myriad paths criss-cross the delightful attractions of the Park.
And the same goes for much of New York. Paths and roads lead you into undiscovered corners and hidden surprises so ignore the bright yellow taxis and keep your subway card for emergencies… the only way to really get a feel for New York City is to hit the streets.
Smart traveller:
- Direct flights to the United States will shave a few hours off your travel time, but can be expensive. Shape Magazine flew via Abu Dhabi on Etihad Airways, and although the journey is a little longer you’ll save a pocket of Rands to spend while you’re there. Visit www.etihadairways.com or call 0800 98 2363.
- A self-catering apartment is a great way to live like a local, and save a few dollars. We loved the spacious rooms of the Hotel Beacon on the Upper West Side, which is right across from the bountiful Fairway Market. Another good option is the trendy AKA, which has hotel-apartments near Central Park and Times Square.
- Request a visit with a Big Apple Greeter, where a volunteer local will help you find your feet. Visits, which last 2-4 hours, are free of charge. Find out more on www.bigapplegreeter.org.
- Buy a New York Citypass for $79 for entrance to six of the city’s top attractions. You’ll get to skip the ticket queues, and save 40% on the usual admission fee.
- Plan your visit at www.nycgo.com.
First published in Shape Magazine; March 2010 |
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With a clickety-clack and sea-spray on the windows you'll soon see why the Muizenberg-Simon's Town train journey is one of the best in the country.
Long-board or latté?
Get set for your journey at Knead Bakery in Muizenberg, who make great pastries and even better coffee. If you're feeling adventurous wriggle into a wetsuit and hit the waves with Roxy's Surf School who will have you hanging ten in no time.
Slat my dood
"Slat my dood met 'n pap snoek!" is a classic Cape saying, but you won't find any pap snoek at Kalk Bay Harbour… just the fresh smack of the sea as the boats come in. It's a bit smelly to stash a Stumpnose in your bag for the day, so head to Kalky's on the dock for a great portion of snoek 'n tjips.
Do you speak whale?
By now the first Southern Right whales have just started arriving in False Bay, so hop off at Fish Hoek and stroll the kilometre-long Jager Walk to Sunny Cove for a bit of whale-watching. Pack a flask of coffee, grab a bench and read up about these annual visitors on the informative signboards.
The dock of the bay
Simon's Town is the home of the SA Navy and those great, grey warships certainly look like they mean business. You can get up close and personal with them on an entertaining harbour cruise with the Simon's Town Boat Company. Visit www.boatcompany.co.za.
Take a shortcut
Instead of heading back on the train, take a shortcut to Kalk Bay with the Mellow Yellow Water Taxi. It runs (weather permitting) every hour on the hour from the Simon's Town public jetty, and costs R100 one-way. If you're lucky you'll even meet some whales on the way!
First published in Juice; the in-flight magazine of Mango airlines. February 2010. |
Tue 16 Feb 2010 |
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Kinks and knots at Karkloof |
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“The hills are grass covered and rolling, and they are lovely beyond any singing of it… the grass is rich and matted, you cannot see the soil. It holds the rain and mist, and they seep into the ground, feeding the streams in every kloof.”
Alan Paton may have penned these words about the hills of Ixopo, but the great author may just as easily have been writing about the lush Karkloof valley. Paton was born in Pietermaritzburg, just 25 kilometres away, and he certainly would have smiled at the sight of these verdant hills. Up on the hillside a herd of Cape buffalo grazes quietly, keeping to themselves. The reserve is home to a disease-free breeding project for these lumbering animals that are infamous for their bad temper. Higher up, a journey of giraffes nibble their way around the thorns of the plentiful Paper-Bark Acacias; while zebra and wildebeest make the most of the long summer grass.
It’s the view that I’m soaking up from the Tranquillity Lounge at Karkloof Spa, one of the largest destination spa resorts in Africa and one of just a handful that throws a wildlife experience into the mix. But first and foremost it’s all about the spa; and in this case it’s a spa built on superlatives. 17 treatment rooms, highly-trained therapists flown in from across the globe, the best equipment, a range of hydrotherapy options, the finest organic therapy products, foot-rubs from David Beckham on request. OK, I made that last one up, but you get the idea.
The spa is divided into distinct areas, with wooden walkways and thoughtfully landscaped gardens leading you into treatment rooms custom-designed for specific therapies. The five rooms of the ‘Wetlands’ area include a hydro-bath and couple’s room, a popular facility that’s also found in the ‘Forest’ section used for general massage therapies. Wander past the ‘Savannah Plains’ and Tranquillity Lounge to head down to the highlight of Karkloof; the Thai Sala, with its outstanding valley views. If you love to spa, you’ll think you’ve died and gone to heaven.
I, on the other hand, am a bit of a spa newbie. I’m also not very good at wrapping my leg around my neck. No matter, that’s what Kong is for.
When it comes to massage it's hard to beat the traditional Thai method, and you’re safe in the arms of Kong. With hands as strong as his demeanour is gentle, and the flexibility of Angelina Jolie on a good Tomb Raider day, Kong is perhaps the best Thai masseuse west of Chiang Mai, his hometown in northern Thailand.
One of six Thai massage therapists hand-picked for the Karkloof Spa, he’s an expert at
twisting, contorting and cracking every joint in your body. Including a few you didn’t even know you had! While some may consider this cruel and unusual punishment, you’ll float out of the serene massage studio with a smile stretched across your face and joints so loose you’ll feel like a marionette.
Which is how I find myself, 30-minutes post-Kong, in a happy stupor gazing out over the valley. Later, perhaps I’ll unleash my metrosexual side and try a pedicure. Or maybe a session in the Moroccan-themed Rassoul Chamber before a dip in the hot/cold Kneipp pools to get the circulation going. Tomorrow, I see a signature ‘spa journey’ in my future.
But there's more to Karkloof than the spa. Beyond these eco-friendly confines there’s a 3500ha reserve to explore, stocked with animals great and small from rhino to warthog and almost everything in between. Usefully though, it’s divided into two sections; the big dangerous stuff with horns and claws are kept securely on one side, allowing you to wander at will on the other.
"...there’s certainly no need to rush. .."
Morning and afternoon game drives with experienced rangers lead you into the ‘wilder’ section of the reserve, and although first-time safari-goers may find it a little tame there’s still a wonderful range of game to discover. About the only thing you won't find here are elephant and big cats, but if you put the cameras away, leave the bincoculars in their pouch and stop ticking birds off the sighting list you’ll soon start to feel the magic.
Chuckle at the officious warthog family darting under the zebra, spend a while gazing at the pattern on a giraffe’s rump or learn why the wildebeest is the ‘spare parts’ shop of the African bush. Perhaps best of all, unlike at many of the Big Five reserves there are no competing game vehicles jostling for a sighting before tearing off in a swirl of dust. Slowing down is what getaways like this are all about, and at Karkloof there’s certainly no need to rush.
You can take it even slower in the other half of the reserve which is fenced off to be safely free of rhino and buffalo, but can’t keep out the wily antelope and warthog. It’s here that you’ll find the spa and lodge, which means you can wander around freely without keeping an eye open for a grumpy two-ton resident.
There are a range of walking trails to discover, or hop on one of the lodge’s mountain bikes to explore the far corners of the reserve. Grassy glades and deserted dirt-tracks are a highlight in themselves, but the reserve is also home to a rather more boisterous attraction. Secreted away in a quiet corner, the 105-metre Karkloof Falls is one of South Africa's tallest waterfalls and well worth a visit. A wooden walkway has been built over the slippery sandstone boulders allowing you close enough to be drenched by the spray.
At the end of a day filled with spa and safari, there are few better places to watch the sun go down than the private deck of your luxury villa. There are just 16 villas on the property, each striking the perfect balance of being luxurious but not pretentious. A delicate blend melds contemporary décor with a touch of African style, while moody wildlife photos hint at what lies beyond the fence-line. All the mod cons are in place, but you’ll probably be just as happy sinking into an armchair on the balcony and listening to the birdsong.
Once you’ve wallowed in your over-sized bath, dinner awaits, and meals are a stylish affair served in the main lodge. As with the rooms, it’s glamorous yet down-to-earth. More moody wildlife photos, offset by a crystal chandelier. Crackling fires in the stone hearth make you want to curl up with a good book, while the well-stocked wine cellar offers some of South Africa’s best vintages.
Meals are an occasion to be savoured at Karkloof, with both indulgent and healthy options available for each course allowing you to indulge or detox as you see fit. 'What you want, when you want' is the name of the game and the ever-friendly staff ensure that no request is too much trouble.
Trouble. It’s about the farthest thing from my mind as I slip in and out of a blissful doze in the Tranquillity Room, deciding between the Rassoul and the pedicure. Oh heck, perhaps I’ll just have both. Being a little indulgent is what places like Karkloof are all about.
Visit www.karkloofspa.com to find out more, or call 033 569 1321. You can also email
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First published in Indwe, the in-flight magazine of SA Express; February 2010
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Fri 12 Feb 2010 |
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Smile, you’re in Thailand! |
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Your first steps onto the streets of Bangkok are likely to be a shock to the system. The traffic-clogged streets, bustling markets and glitzy malls are a world away from the paradise islands and serene temples you were expecting, but take a deep breath, drop your bags and embrace the capital of the ‘Land of Smiles’.
It may sound like trite brochure-speak, but Thailand is quite easily the friendliest country on earth, and everyone from the tuk-tuk driver to your waiter will be only too happy to chat and offer help if you need it.
Bangkok is also home to its fair share of tourists sights, and most visitors head straight for the Grand Palace, a gorgeous gleaming complex on the banks of the Chao Phraya River that’s home to some of the country’s most magnificent temples. A few steps away you’ll also find Wat Po, the oldest temple in Bangkok and home to the colossal 45-metre Reclining Buddha. The outer courtyards are also worth exploring, and Wat Po is home to a famous school of Thai massage. If you feel the need to have some kinks ironed out just pitch up and wait your turn. Across the Chao Phraya, the mosaics of Wat Arun gleam in the sunlight and the temple is worth visiting on one of the popular river cruises.
Bangkok has dozens of attractions to keep you busy, but if the crowds get too much there are wonderful day trips to consider: don’t miss the 14th century ruins in historic Ayutthaya, or west to the Damnoen Saduak floating markets and the war memorials of Kanchanaburi; home of the famous ‘Bridge on the River Kwai’.
When you’re done with Bangkok you really have two choices: south to the islands, or north to the jungles. The country may be vast, but it’s surprisingly easy to explore on long-distance buses and an extensive network of domestic flights. However, the train system is ideal for independent travellers and offers air-conditioned carriages and comfy seats that fold down into spacious bunk beds with linen supplied!
The train tracks north will undoubtedly lead you to Chiang Mai, gateway to the jungles of the far north where elephant trekking, river rafting and visits to the hill tribes will keep you buys for days on end. Over 800 years old, Chiang Mai is the relaxed Cape Town to Bangkok’s Johannesburg, and the perfect place to slowly soak up local culture or perhaps try your hand at a Thai cooking course.
Sooner or later though, the beaches will beckon, and Thailand is famous for its palm-fringed sands that fall into aquamarine seas; the picture-postcard of paradise.
Ko Samui in the Gulf of Thailand and Phuket on the Andaman Sea are still popular with package tourists, but can be crowded in the high season. For sand with a bit of space rather head further south to Ko Lanta and its Marine National Park, or west to Ko Chang and the far-flung Ko Tarutao.
It’ll take a little longer, but the jealousy on your friends’ faces – and the grin on yours – when you show them where you spent your holiday will make it all the more worthwhile. Perhaps Thailand is the ‘Land of Smiles’ after all.
If you’re planning your second trip to Thailand and have ticked all the major sights, don’t miss out on these top spots a little off the beaten track.
- Sangkhlaburi: in the far west of the country, a stone’s throw from Myanmar, this small country town is way off the beaten track. Like all border towns it’s a mish-mash of cultures and languages, and is becoming a good spot to go elephant- and jungle-trekking without the crowds of Chiang Mai.
- Ko Tao: Avoid the crowds on nearby Ko Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan and head for this tiny slice of sand. It’s the ideal place to finally get that scuba qualification you’ve always dreamt of, as the courses are cheap and there are dozens of coral reefs to gawk at. With a name like ‘Turtle Island’ you may just bump into a few too!
- Khao Sok National Park: Dust the sand off your shoes and head for the verdant jungles of Surat Thani province. Together with its four neighbouring parks Khao Sok forms the largest nature reserve on the Thai peninsula and offers spectacular trekking. Discover thundering waterfalls, 180 species of bird, an explosion of flowers and, if you’re exceptionally lucky, spot the resident wild elephants, leopard, dusky langurs and Malayan sun bears. Don’t forget the binoculars!
First published in HighFlyers magazine, February 2010
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Mosaics.
Who would have thought that discovering humble mosaics would be one of the most memorable moments of my all-too-short visit to New York City?
I was expecting many things from my trip to the Big Apple. Towering skyscrapers, brusque New Yorkers, corn beef on rye sandwiches, ubiquitous yellow cabs. Shards of tile, however, were far from my mind.
And yet it’s mosaics, dotted across the East Village like breadcrumbs left by an artistic Hansel, that seem to catch my eye at every turn.
“See the mosaic of the beaver, up there in the eaves?” asks Andrea, pointing to the ceiling of the Astor Street subway stop. “You could say New York was built on beaver fur; it was one of the exports that made the early Dutch traders fabulously wealthy. You’ll see that beaver motif all over New York.”
And Andrea should know. As a New York local (although she now lives over the East River in Brooklyn) she knows the city backwards and is one of the extraordinary volunteers with an organisation called Big Apple Greeter.
Offered as a service to New York visitors, a ‘Greet’ – offered free of charge – pairs tourists up with a local who will show them the city for a few hours. It’s a visit, not a tour; so don’t expect a head full of facts and figures. Instead, you’ll get to know a small slice of the city, understand how the subway works and peek under the covers of some of New York’s multi-faceted neighbourhoods.
As we climb the subway steps out into the bright autumn sunlight of Astor Place there’s more public art on offer. A five-square-metre black steel cube known as ‘Alamo’, sculpted by artist Tony Rosenthal, has been perched on one corner here since the ‘60s and dominates Astor Place, named for 18th-century beaver-magnate John Jacob Astor.
But it’s the rubbish bin next to it that catches my eye. And then the lamppost. And the road-sign across the street. Each of them intricately decorated in a tapestry of pottery shards, glass and mosaics.
“These are all done by Jim Power, a homeless artist who has been in the area for years,” explains Andrea. “I was hoping he’d be around here today, but…” she trails off.
Carefully themed to their surroundings, Power’s mosaic murals commemorate everything from the 9/11 attacks to rock gods from the ‘60s; the latter on a lamppost outside where the legendary Fillmore East concert hall used to stand.
Jimi Hendrix and The Who may well have had a few pints at McSorley’s Old Ale House around the corner on East 7th Street. Opened in 1854, just three families have owned it in its 150-year history and today you’ll still find sawdust scattered on the floor and an apronned barman pulling pints.
But it’s too early for a drink, so we keep walking. Up one block to St. Mark’s Place, where St. Mark’s Comic Shop holds thousands of vintage comics and every action figurine you could ask for. It’s heaven on earth for adults who never left their childhood behind.
Across the block is Trash & Vaudeville, a glam-punk clothing store that resolutely refuses to leave the ‘70s. “We used to have some wild times in the Village. I used to shop there,” Andrea says a laugh. “Now my daughter does!”
This schizophrenic mish-mash of cultures and cliques is typical of the East Village, a suburb of immigrants where cultures mingled and merged. European Jews were first, Germans followed and when they left the Ukrainians, hippies and beat-poets moved in.
Veselka, a 24-hour Ukrainian restaurant on Second Avenue, has become one of lower Manhattan’s most popular diners. New Yorkers flock here from across the city for a plate of pierogis; steamed (or fried) Hungarian dumplings filled with anything from spicy rocket to sweet pumpkin.
We wander back down Second Avenue and Andrea pulls me into the Gem Spa, a legendary café serving a Manhattan institution. ‘Egg Cream’ contains neither – it’s a curious mix of syrup, soda water and milk – but is as New York as corn beef on rye.
And there is no better place to sample the quintessential New York sandwich than the Lower East Side; the spiritual home of the deli.
The pavements are buzzing as we walk to the area where hundreds of thousands of Jewish immigrants crowded into tenements in the late-1800s. Although many of them prospered and moved on, they left behind a legacy of fabulous bakeries, delis and restaurants.
It’s impossible to ignore Katz’s Deli on East Houston Street; home to the city’s most celebrated Corn Beef on Rye sandwiches and made famous in ‘When Harry met Sally’. A sign with “I’ll have what she’s having” still hangs over the ‘orgasm’ table today. It’s a cheerful, no-frills place filled with gawking tourists and hungry locals.
A few doors down, the family-owned Russ & Daughters deli has been open since 1914, “and we still get customers coming in who’ve been shopping here for the past 60 years,” a smiling Nicky Russ tells me over a counter brimming with kosher goodies.
The typically Jewish deli is an ‘appetizing’ store and sells only fish, dairy and baked goods. The closest you’ll get to meat is a ‘pastrami-spiced salmon’, one of a dozen varieties of cured salmon on offer. Along with wonderful cream cheese and fresh-baked bagels it’s the perfect place to stock up for a picnic.
And where better to enjoy it than a few subway stops across town on the newly opened Highline Park.
Where Central Park is spacious, lush and an escape from the city, the Highline embraces the cityscape of Chelsea. Landscaped on an abandoned elevated-railway track, the Highline runs for about 10 blocks (with another 10 in the pipeline) to the old Meatpacking District where butcher’s yards and warehouses are being transformed into chi-chi boutiques and top-end restaurants.
It’s been 25 years since the last train trundled along these tracks, but clever landscaping with hardy grasses and indigenous shrubs, and the addition of sleek concrete walkways and wooden benches, has turned this derelict railway into the city’s most exciting open space.
And perhaps that’s why I fell in love with New York. It’s a bright and brash metropolis that is home to some of the world’s greatest architecture and art galleries, yet cares enough to give a set of old railway tracks a new lease on life. Family-owned delis last for generations, vacant lots transform into community gardens, and simple lampposts become works of art.
The Highline and Jim Power’s street-art may be overshadowed by Central Park and the Guggenheim, but even in the Big Apple small things matter. A little like those mosaics.
TRAVEL TIPS
- Where to stay: I loved the Hotel Beacon on the Upper West Side. The rooms are some of the most spacious I found in New York, and come with handy kitchenettes. The views over Central Park and Midtown are wonderful and it’s right across from the bountiful Fairway Market. It’s a great spot to feel like you’re ‘living’ in New York, not just visiting as a tourist, and it’s only a few subway stops from the bright lights of Times Square. Visit www.beaconhotel.com or call 001 212 787 1100.
- Big Apple Greeter: If you’re a first-time visitor you shouldn’t miss out on a visit with a Big Apple Greeter. It’s a marvellous way to be introduced to the city and will help you find your feet in no time. Visits, which last around 2-4 hours) are free of charge, and Greeters do not accept tips. Find out more on www.bigapplegreeter.org.
- Flights: A number of major international airlines fly to New York, but I flew via Abu Dhabi with Etihad Airways. It may take a little longer, but you’ll find a cheaper fare and the award-winning airline’s brand-new Airbus fleet is a pleasure to fly on. Visit www.etihadairways.com or call 0800 98 2363.
- Top tip: The New York Citypass is a great way to save money. For just $79 you get entrance to six of the city’s top attractions, including the Empire State, Statue of Liberty and the three major art museums. You’ll save 40% on the usual admission price, and get to skip the long lines. Go to www.citypass.com.
- Web: Visit the official New York City tourism board website at www.nycgo.com
Published in the January 2010 edition of Garden & Home magazine.
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Want to go wandering, but don’t have grands of Rands? Here are six exotic overseas destinations that won’t send your bank manager running…
India
Why go? Whether you’re a beach bum or intrepid explorer there’s little you won’t find in India. Jungles prowled by endangered tigers, ancient forts marooned in the desert, lake palaces, exquisite monuments, exotic temples, towering mountains… the country has it all, and that’s without mentioning the glorious food. India is dirt-cheap on the Rand, so if you don’t mind sharing it all with a billion locals India is your oyster.
When to go: India is vast, so when also depends on where. Monsoons hit the southern regions in May/June and move across the country. December and January are your best bet for clear skies and mild temperatures in the most popular tourist areas.
Make it happen: You’ll need to apply for a visa, but these are issued free of charge at the Consulate in Durban or Johannesburg. Flights start from about R6000 return, and you can either fly direct from Johannesburg on SAA, or get a cheaper fare with one of the Middle Eastern airlines. Travelling around is cheap if you live like a local and use the extensive train system, the world’s largest. Expect to pay from R50 – R150 per night for a double room in a decent small hotel.
Indonesia
Why go? With 17 000 islands flung across 5000 kilometres of ocean, there’s an island destination for everyone. The western reaches of Sumatra are prone to earthquakes, but surfers let nothing stand between them and the legendary breaks of the Mentawai Islands. You’ll find more great surf and sand on the popular holiday island of Bali, which is also famous for its affordable spa retreats in Ubud. On Java you’ll get ancient temples and rumbling volcanoes, while the Gili Islands off Lombok are the place to turn to turn up, tune in and chill out.
When to go: Straddling the equator, Indo is hot and humid almost any time of year. In most parts of the country there’s slightly more rain (which usually comes in short, intense downpours) from October to April, but you’ll also benefit from low season prices and fewer European tourists.
Make it happen: A visa-on-arrival will cost you $25 and a clean and a comfortable beach bungalow will set you back as little as R150/night for two. The easiest way to get there is via Singapore on Singapore Airlines. Expect to pay from R8000 for a return ticket from Johannesburg. Keep an eye out for super-cheap stopover specials.
Madagascar
Why go? Enjoy tropical paradise just a few hours from Johannesburg, with a healthy dose of adventure thrown in for good measure. Choose between an island-hopping dhow expedition through the northern islands, hiking through the spectacular spiny forests of the west coast, whale watching in the east or tracking rare lemurs in the tropical rainforests of the Central Highlands. Just surviving the chaotic streets of the capital Antananarivo is a story in itself!
When to go: The best time to travel in most areas is April and October/November, and you’d best avoid January to March when there’s heavy rainfall across the country and a high risk of cyclones in the northeast. Hotels get full (and expensive) during the European holidays in July and August.
Make it happen: All passport holders require a visa, which can be issued at the Consulate in Cape Town, or Embassy in Pretoria. Accommodation ranges from pauper to prince, but you should get a decent double room on the coast for around R350. Don’t forget the island is malarial, so see your travel doctor well before you leave! You can fly from Johannesburg to Antananarivo with Air Madagascar or Airlink, with fares starting at around R5000.
Argentina
Why go? Buenos Aires, the ‘Paris of South America’, is full of faded glamour and long-legged Latino women dancing the sensual tango. The glaciers and forests of Patagonia are like nothing you’ve ever seen, while the snow-capped peaks of San Carlos de Bariloche offer excellent skiing in winter. Aconcagua, the highest peak in South America, towers above the wineries of Mendoza, and the cataracts of Iguassu form one of the world’s most spectacular waterfalls.
When to go: Similar to South Africa, spring is gorgeous just about everywhere in Argentina. If you want to explore Tierra del Fuego or climb the high Andean peaks you’ll have to visit in the height of summer. Which is just as well, as it’s the time to avoid the steamy tropical north.
Make it happen: South Africans can get a visa on arrival at Buenos Aires, so there’s no paperwork to worry about! A decent guesthouse double room will cost around R200, but is likely to be about 25% higher in Buenos Aires and Patagonia. South African Airways is now giving Malaysia Airlines a run for its money on the SA-Buenos Aires route. Expect to pay around R8000 return.
Peru
Why go? Hidden to the western world until the early 1900s, the ancient Inca city of Machu Picchu ranks as one of the world’s greatest wonders. Whether you tackle the Inca Trail or take the lazy route to the top, the sight of this ancient citadel (and the altitude!) will leave you breathless. With a camera full of photos set off to explore the rest of the country, from the floating villages of Lake Titicaca to the gorgeous Pacific beaches.
When to go: Late May until early September is the best time to visit Machu Picchu so it’s wise to plan your trip around then. If you’re sticking to the coastline, hot and humid December to March is best as the central and southern beaches are cloaked in garúa (coastal fog) for the rest of the year.
Make it happen: No visa is required for tourist visits up to 90 days. A double room will cost from around R150/night, but considerably more in the capital Lima. A permit for the Inca Trail is a hefty R2400, but can you really put a price on a view like that? You’ll need to fly via Buenos Aires or São Paulo (both served by SAA). You won’t get much change from R10 000, but once you’re there the living is cheap.
Jordan
Why go? Home to the enigmatic ancient city of Petra, Jordan is the ancient foil to the glitz and glam countries of the Middle East. Once you've soaked up the 2000 years of history, head to the blood-red dunes of Wadi Rum to experience a night out in the desert. Go for a little float around the oh-so-salty Dead Sea, and then wash the sand out of your hair with a dip in the coral-filled Gulf of Aqaba. End off your trip with a bittersweet cardamom coffee and fragrant nargileh water pipe in Amman, enjoyed to the hip-swinging beat of Arabic pop.
When to go: Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are best, with mild daytime temperatures. March can be cold and rainy in the north, but is perfect for diving in the Gulf of Aqaba. Snow can fall in some parts in winter, so go prepared, and avoid travelling during the (very quiet) holy month of Ramadaan.
Make it happen: An entry visa is issued on arrival, and will cost around R100. A decent room in a mid-range guesthouse will set you back about R250 per couple. Fly there with one of the Middle Eastern carriers: a return ticket can be yours for around R6900 all-in.
First published in HIgh Flyers magazine, |
As hidden attractions go, Cape Town's Noon Day Gun is hard to miss.
Jaded office workers barely look up from their desks when the cannons of Lion Battery boom across the city, but tourists are easy to spot, jumping in alarm with the frenzied look of someone under attack.
In truth, though, the two 18-pounder smooth-bore muzzle-loading guns on the slopes above the city have not been fired in anger since the short-lived Battle of Muizenberg on 7 August 1795.
That’s just one snippet of Cape Town trivia you’ll discover on a visit to the Lion Battery on the rump of Signal Hill, where each day an officer from the South African Navy regales a small crowd of tourists and curious locals with the history of Cape Town’s oldest living tradition.
Cast by London’s Walker & Company in 1794, the two cannons were brought to the Cape during the 1795 British occupation and for over a century were fired from the Imhoff Battery in the city bowl.
The noon firing wasn’t simply a case of trigger-happy soldiers, though. The daily firing allowed ships to set their chronometers to the correct time — vital information when navigating by sextant on the high seas. During the First and Second World Wars the daily firing was also used to mark a two-minute silence for the fallen.
In 1902, with the city of Cape Town growing around the Imhoff Battery, the decision was made (presumably encouraged by deafened residents) to move them to their current site on the slopes of Signal Hill.
The two cannons — only one is fired, but both are loaded daily in case of a misfire — are the oldest of their type in the world and, as the signboard at the Battery will tell you, have been fired over 63 800 times since 1803. In all that time it has failed to fire only once — in January 2005.
Although the Battery now falls within the Table Mountain National Park, the South African Navy is still responsible for firing the guns six days per week. Sundays are for rest … and peace and quiet.
So, with cannons loaded, how is the gun fired (video) at exactly noon each day? The apocryphal explanation goes like this. A man walks into a Long Street watchmaker, and notices that all the clocks on the wall are showing precisely the same time. “How do you always know the correct time?” the man asks.
"Well, I simply listen for the Noon Day Gun, and I set all my clocks by that," replies the watchmaker.
Intrigued, the man decides to visit the Noon Day Gun, and asks the Navy officer on duty how he knows when it’s exactly noon to fire the cannon. "Well," says the officer, holding a telescope to his eye, "there’s this watchmaker down there on Long Street with a clock in the window …"
The reality is far more precise. An electrical signal is sent from the South African Astronomical Observatory (which has an unfailingly accurate atomic clock) a few milliseconds before noon. This burst of energy zips across telephone lines, ignites the firing cap on the cannon, sparks the gunpowder and … boom!
"… a slice of the Cape’s culinary history…"
The show might be over for another day, but that's only half the attraction of this corner of Cape Town. Just a short walk from the cannons you'll find a slice of the Cape’s culinary history.
At the top of Longmarket Street, surely the steepest road in Cape Town, the last house on the left has been home to the Misbach family for over 65 years. For the last 16 it’s also been home to one of Cape Town’s loveliest restaurants, the Noon Gun Tea Room and Restaurant.
Long popular with overseas tourists, curious locals are slowly starting to venture up the steep cobbled street to tuck into the delicious bredies, breyanis and bobotie cooked up by Zaini Misbach and her family.
"These are all my grandmother’s recipes. Passed on from her grandmother, and then her grandmother," says Zaini. "The original Malay people made do with the spices they found here in the Cape so they are spicy dishes, but toned down from what you’d find in the East."
Main courses range from R75 to R95, but come in hearty portions that offer great value for money.
Whether you stop in for a recession-busting bredie or just block your ears at the stroke of noon, this is certainly one corner of the Cape’s colourful history worth exploring. Noon Day Gun
For more info:
- Lion Battery, Military Road, Bo-Kaap. Turn from Buitengracht into Bloem Street, and follow the signs. Arrive before 11.45am to hear the history of the Noon Day Gun. Admission is free.
- The Noon Gun Tea Room & Restaurant is at 273 Longmarket Street, Bo-Kaap. Phone 021 423 9978. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday. Lunch only on Sundays. In keeping with Malay culture, no alcohol is served, or allowed, in the restaurant.
First published on http://travel.iafrica.com courtesy of www.mediaclubsouthafrica.com. |
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