“I like to spend some time in Mozambique, The sunny sky is aqua blue. And all the couples dancing cheek to cheek. It's very nice to stay a week or two.There's lots of pretty girls in Mozambique. And plenty time for good romance.”

Bob Dylan may have penned those lines somewhere down south, but the swaying palm trees, friendly ‘Bom Dia’ from the locals and idyllic white sand beaches that prompted him to “spend some time” in Mozambique are just as common in the unexplored north of the country.

The southern reaches of Mozambique have become the tropical playground for South African visitors over the last decade or two, but it’s only recently that the pristine north of the country has begun vying for the attention of local and overseas travellers.

And when you head north the town of Pemba is, without doubt, your first stop.
The capita of Cabo Delgado province, the town has become the transit point for tourists in search of sun, sea and sand. And my goodness, they’ve come to the right place!
The Pemba Beach Hotel is many visitors’ first taste of Pemba, either by choice or if the weather grounds their onward connecting flight.
A ??-room resort hotel built in a beguiling Arabic style, it’s an echo of the colourful history of the region. Arabs traded here, the Portuguese colonised and took over where the Arabs left off… even Chinese explorers sailed through these waters on journeys of exploration.
Any journey at the Pemba Beach Hotel & Spa should certainly lead you to the Sanctuary Spa, commanding a fantastic position overlooking the sands of Wimbe beach and the Indian Ocean beyond. A beachfront Jacuzzi, chill-out room with a view and ever-present healing hands make this a great place to ease into your island holiday.
For a true taste of island living though, you need to hop in a Cessna Caravan and hit the high road – about 3500-feet, to be exact – north with the trusty pilots of Rani Air.

Flying high to the islands

“That’s Matemo down below,” said the passenger next to me as we circled and lined up for landing.
Skimming the palm trees as the early trade winds fluttered the windsock, the ground rushes up to meet our Cessna as the plane comes to ground with a satisfying bump and taxis to the side of the runway.

“Welcome to Matemo!” says Tony Vernon-Driscoll the friendly manager of Matemo Island as the coconut palms wave hello in the background.
With a wide sandy beach, gentle currents and activities a-plenty, Matemo is well suited to families looking for a bit of bonding in the sunshine. Halyards flap on sailing dinghies waiting to be launched, kayaks stand at the ready and the fishing boat bobs at anchor, safely offshore from the low tide.

If you’d rather just sloth by the seaside, grab a good book and hit the hammock thoughtfully swaying from your private deck. Sitting cosily along the beachfront Matemo’s chalets are Robinson Crusoe gone five-star. Outdoor showers add a touch of romance, you can tumble from your bed to the beach and Makuti palm fronds rustle in the wind. It’s island style like no other.
After a busy day in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean your stomach will rumble at the thought of dinner; served either in the restaurant or perhaps under the stars at the poolside. Grilled crayfish, succulent prawns, fresh tuna… this is a paradise for pescatarians! Matemo is also an ‘all-inclusive’ resort, so you can ask for another local 2M beer (just ask for a ‘dosh-em’) without worrying about the bill.
After all, the Quirimbas are the place to escape the outside world; where bills and credit cards are to be forgotten. If dropping out of the world for a while is what you’re after, a castaway experience to remember awaits just 20 minutes north of Matemo.

My own private island… almost

When a resort comes with the word “private” before “island” you know you’re in for something special, and Medjumbe Private Island certainly doesn’t disappoint.
A slender sand-spit lying like a giant comma in the Bombay Sapphire waters of the Indian Ocean, landing at Medjumbe is not for the faint hearted. A short runway with sea lapping at both ends makes for a breathtaking bump back to earth, but the island is worth every heart-stopping moment.

Just 13 rooms dot the northern side of the island, gazing towards Tanzania a few hundred kilometres away. Hand-in-hand sunset walks – this is the perfect honeymoon destination – around the island will help you work up an appetite for the seafood feasts served by candlelight on the panoramic stone terrace.

When the sun comes up it’s time to get active. Medjumbe offers much the same activities at Matemo, but the island’s scuba diving is particularly outstanding.
“Our best dive is one we like to call ‘The edge of reason’,” says resort Divemaster Peter. “It drops from 16 metres into… well, we’re not quite sure how deep it goes but it’s the big blue!”
This dramatic wall dive offers both novice or experienced divers, with the chance to see large pelagic fish rising out of the depths. For the less adventurous, the large fringing reef surrounding Medjumbe offers fantastic snorkelling, and you can even fin away from the beach on an underwater safari of your own.

And that’s pretty much what a Quirimbas holiday is all about – a slice of ‘me-time’ in a tropical paradise. Whether it’s blowing bubbles underwater or enjoying a glass of bubbly surrounded by it, a visit to the Quirimbas is the ultimate island escape. Wouldn’t you also like to “spend some time in Mozambique”?

For more information on Pemba Beach Hotel & Spa, Matemo Island or Medjumbe Private Island, please visit www.raniresorts.com or call +27 11 467 1277.

• Published in Indwe magazine, the in-flight mag of SA Express, May 2009
  

It's not often I get to watch tanned young things surf tropical waters as my international flight comes into land. Yet just beyond the wingtip, or so it seemed, herds of young Australians cut and ride the warm waters of Jimbaran Bay as our Singapore Airlines flight glides down onto the runway at Ngurah Rai airport.

"Salamat dating," wafts the voice over the intercom. "Welcome to Bali".

Of the 17 000 islands that make up Indonesia, Bali is far and away the most popular with tourists, offering tropical beaches, great surfing, outstanding cuisine and a wonderful mix of cultures and religions.

Most travellers find their feet in the tourist hotspot of Kuta, a short ride from the airport, but once you've recovered from the jetlag it's best to escape this package-tourist-purgatory of Irish pubs and fake sunglasses. It might be your first stop, but it's also the last place you want to spend time on the beautiful islands of Indonesia.

If you want to ease into your Indonesian escape, Bali's southern Bukit Peninsula is a good bet. From Mauritian-style resorts in Nusa Dua to humble surf-shacks near the fabled left-hand break of Ulu Watu there will be something to suit your pocket.

You're also just a short taxi-ride away from Jimbaran Bay where, come sunset, the stretch of sand transforms into a stunning strip of outdoor seafood restaurants. While your lobster grills over smouldering coconut husks, wiggle your toes deep down into the sand and call for another ice-cold Bintang beer.
Many of the restaurants even offer a free-shuttle service for the quick ride back to your hotel. One of the beauties of Bali is that nothing is ever very far away.

Just 145km wide by 80km long, the main sites are clustered in the centre of the island just an hour or two's drive from the south.

To be polite, the Balinese have a 'unique' style of driving so it's best to hop on a tour or charter a taxi if you don't want to collect a few grey hairs along the way. Perama Tours has offices throughout the island and is an affordable, reputable operator.

From the south a day-tour could include visiting the dive sites of the north coast, rice paddies of the interior or the slopes of Mount Agung; the island's highest volcano at 3142m.

Many tours also stop off in Ubud, but this village in the heart of Bali deserves a few days, not hours, of your holiday. A cool retreat from the steamy coast, it is also the cultural heart of Bali where galleries and craft shops line the streets and the island's top chefs compete with artistry on a plate. Don't leave town without trying the Babi Guling (Roast suckling pig) on offer at the Ibu Oka food stall.

Ubud is also home to dozens of outstanding spa retreats; from five-star resorts to one-room operations where an hour's Balinese massage can cost as little as R60. For something a little more active, the area offers excellent mountain biking, river-rafting (in the rainy season), walking and birding.

A visit to Ubud's Sacred Monkey Forest in the centre of town is also a must. Over 300 Long-tail Macaques live in the forest, clambering over the 14th century Holy Monkey Temples to make light work of the daily offerings.

Unlike most of Indo (as seasoned travellers like to call it), Bali is a largely Hindu island and the locals make small offerings each morning, leaving bamboo-leaf parcels of food, flowers and incense on doorsteps, tables and dashboards to appease the gods. Whether irreverent or just plain peckish, the macaques don't take long to pull the parcels apart looking for anything edible.

Hinduism is woven throughout the fabric of daily life in Bali, and temples dot the roadside at almost every turn. Tours of the island routinely include some of the most spectacular, and inevitably end up at the magnificent Pura Tanah Lot.

Facing the setting sun, the temple is built on an island just offshore that is surrounded by sea on the high-tide. When the tide is out the temple monks will show you the fresh-water spring that flows from beneath the rocks, and bestow a short rice blessing. For a donation of course.

Tanah Lot is at its most spectacular at sunset, but be prepared to share it with hundreds of other tourists and touts. Off beyond the sunset lies the powerhouse of Indonesia; the island of Java.

The capital Jakarta is the island's financial hub, but the central city of Yogyakarta is its soul; home to universities, artists and some of the world's most evocative temples.

The city centre is small enough to explore on foot, but if the tropical stickiness gets to you then there are always becak rickshaws around to give you a lift.

The palace of the sultans – the kraton – in the heart of Yogyakarta is the main attraction, but the city is also famous for its batik paintings. Cheap knock-offs abound in the main market, so rather head for a smaller gallery where you can see the craftsmen at work and learn a little about this delicate art.

However, the main artistry that draws tourists to this corner of Java lies a little way outside of town. In a curious mix of religions, Yogya is home to two notable holy sites from two different religions; the Buddhist temple of Borobodur and the Hindu ruins of Prambanan.

Prambanan was badly damaged in recent earthquakes, but is well-worth a visit for its intricate stone-work and a performance of the Ramayana ballet in a nearby amphitheatre.

My favourite, however, is the lost in time temple of Borobodur.

Built over 1200 years ago, the temple lay forgotten in the jungle until Sir Stamford Raffles discovered it buried under layers of volcanic ash in 1815.

Today, it sits serenely amongst the palms and is a popular spot at sunset when tourists clamber over the two million stone blocks to admire the intricate carvings of the path to Buddhist nirvana.

Nirvana is also what you'll find on the beaches of the Gili Islands, a ferry-ride away off the east coast of Bali.

Each of the three islands has its own character; from party-heavy Gili Trawangan favoured by backpackers and student-types to the cast-away Gili Meno where nothing much happens too quickly. Somewhere in-between is the delightful Gili Air, a heavenly mix of tropical escape and island style.

After a day spent diving in the channels or snorkelling the nearby reefs, you can crawl under a palm-thatch gazebo, order another Bintang and make that all-important dinner choice between freshly-caught prawns or still-flapping Snapper.

To the west the setting sun turns the skies above Mount Agung the colour of a monk's saffron robes. As you lean back, toes wiggling in the sand of yet another perfect beach, it's easy to see how these three tiny islands are the perfect place to turn up, tune in and bliss out.

• Originally published in Garden & Home Magazine, May 2009
  

The steamy tropical climate in the far reaches of Zululand is reason enough to head straight for the beach, but this lush north-east corner of KwaZulu-Natal is famous for more than powdery white sand and secret beaches you'll have all to yourself.

The ancestral lands of the famous Zulu king Shaka offer everything from historical landmarks and bloody battlefields to luxurious Big Five escapes. It's no wonder he defended the rolling hills and sub-tropical coastline to the death!

A good, if unashamedly touristy, place to start any tour of Zululand is Shakaland.
And by the way, it's more dramatic when you say it like James Earl Jones and throw in a drumbeat or two.

"Shakaland! Doo-doom!"

Originally built as the set for the 1986 movie 'Shaka Zulu', Shakaland is a re-creation of the king's Great Kraal overlooking the Phobane Lake. Although assegaai-wielding warriors will turn up the cheese to welcome you to Shaka-Disney, it's still a good place to learn a little about the Zulu nation. The Nandi experience is a worthwhile display of Zulu culture and customs, while tourists are never disappointed by the foot-stomping displays of traditional Zulu dancing.

It's certainly not for the jaded traveller, but if you want to learn a little about the man and people that once ruled these hills with an iron fist then Shakaland is the place to start. And if all that beer-drinking and spear-throwing has you tired out, there's even a hotel on-site cleverly designed as 55 traditional bee-hive huts. With all the mod-cons thrown in, of course.

Shaka was famous as a warrior king, and the battles between English soldiers and the Zulu impis are the stuff of legend. While the far western reaches of Zululand – areas such as Isandhlwana and Blood River - draw most of the Battlefields tourists, there are a number of historic sites nearby worth visiting.

From Shakaland the road north to Ulundi is your best bet, with diversions to Coward's Bush and Dingaan's Kraal possible if you have time. There's not much to recommend the town of Ulundi itself, but the region is famously home to the site of the battle that finally ended the bloody Anglo-Zulu war.

After the six-month Battle of Ulundi, Cetshwayo's capital of Ondini was finally razed by the victorious British troops and he was imprisoned in Cape Town's castle. The royal kraal (isigodlo) has since been rebuilt and, along with the KwaZulu Cultural-Historical Museum, is an excellent way to experience some of the Zulu history and culture. Nearby, some of the most famous Zulu kings lie buried in the Emakhosini Ophathe Heritage Park. Make sure you pick up the excellent brochure which has a good map of the historic sites on offer.

From Battlefields to the Big Five, in the heart of Zululand you will also find one of the country's undisputed wilderness gems: the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve.

Established in 1895, Hluhluwe-Imfolozi holds the honour of being the oldest game reserve in Africa. Once the private hunting grounds of Zulu kings Shaka and Dingiswayo, the park has since become famous for its efforts to conserve the White Rhino. In 1960 these lumbering beasts were on the verge of extinction due to loss of habitat and poaching, yet today the white rhino population is now 12 times what it was back then!

In addition to the now-famous herds of Ceratotherium simum the park is a Noah's Ark of wildlife, including the ever-popular Big Five. With its hilly topography the park is also a haven for birdlife, with over 300 species recorded.

Wildlife aside, it's the wide range of ways to enjoy the wilderness that brings many visitors to Hluhluwe-Imfolozi.

Sign-posted auto-trails allow you to drive explore on your own, or you can join one of the guided game drives in open safari vehicles where knowledgeable rangers will bring the bush to life.

The reserve was one of the pioneers of walking trails in Big Five country, and there are a range of options on offer if you'd like to stretch your legs.

The Imfolozi section of the park has three self-guided walking trails - at Emoyeni Mpila, Enkulu and Masinda Ncane – for you to explore on your own. Guide books are available to help you follow the path and interpret the bush along the way. If you'd rather not take the road less travelled there are also guided walks (about two hours) from both Mpila and Hilltop Camps. Remember to book your spot at reception though. If you like to walk on the wild side, then the famous Hluhluwe-Imfolozi wilderness trail is one not to be missed.

Available from mid-March to mid-December, the three-day hike starts at Mndindini Trails Camp overlooking the White Mfolozi River, and takes you deep into the heart of the 30 000-hectare wilderness area. You'll spend two nights at a tented camp in the bush, accompanied by an experienced ranger of course, before returning to Mndindini

But what if you're not a bush-baby?

Luckily there are a range of accommodation options in and around the reserve.

KZN Wildlife offers a variety of places to stay within the park; from self-catering chalets to upmarket bush lodges complete with their own chef and wilderness guide. Many visitors also choose to stay on the outskirts of the park and drive in each day.

A good option if you choose this route is the Zululand Tree Lodge. Run by the Three Cities group, this popular lodge on the outskirts of the reserve offers 24 thatched rooms raised on stilts in the tranquillity of a Fever Tree forest.

While the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve is justifiably the most famous, Zululand offers a range of wildlife getaways to suit most pockets. Hluluwe is your best bet if you're travelling on a budget, but if your credit card is charged up then Zululand's your five-star safari oyster!

It's hard not to fall in love with Thanda Private Game Reserve, just 23-kilometres from the town of Hluhluwe. It's very name means 'love' in Zulu and that's just what has gone into creating this stunning Big Five reserve.

When you're not out tracking Lion or Elephant you could find yourself having a breakfast feast out in the bush, or taking a walk in the footsteps of rhino on a guided bush walk. That is, however, if you can tear yourself away from the gorgeous suites of the Main Lodge.

Just nine luxury bush villas are on offer, each measuring an elephantine 220m² with their own private deck and 'sala' day-bed for afternoon siestas, well as a refreshing plunge pool. Stretched out along the hillside there are fantastic views of the reserve from almost every corner of the suite. Need some extra-pampering or want to pop the question? Book a treatment in the wellness centre, and ask for a romantic candlelit dinner to be served in your suite's private boma.

Not far off is Phinda Private Game Reserve, run by the respected safari operator &Beyond (previously known as CC Africa). Covering 23 000 hectares, Phinda is one of the largest game reserves in the region and covers seven diverse habitats which shelter everything from the Big Five to over 380 bird species.

Tucked away in the wilderness are six lodges, each with their own distinct character and charm. From Forest Lodge set deep in the heart of a rare Dry Sand Forest to the dramatic mountain-top setting of Rock Lodge there's something to tickle your fancy.

In addition to the usual game drives and walks, Phinda also offers a range of specialist safari activities. These include the unique opportunity to shadow Phinda's leopard research team, as well as the four-day Bush Skills Academy where you can learn a little about what it takes to be a game ranger.

From wildlife to wetlands, Phinda borders another of South Africa's natural highlights.

This stretch of Zululand coastline is world-renowned for its magnificent coastal estuaries, and none is more impressive than Lake St Lucia; a 38 000 hectare expanse that's the pride and joy of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park (www.isimangaliso.com), which was recently declared a World Heritage Site.

In the reserve, you can wander along deserted beaches, cast a line for Garrick or watch humpback whales calve offshore. There are also daily boat tours out on to the lake run by KZN Wildlife. Tickets cost in the region of R120 per adult. Whatever you do, don't take a dip in the Lake… the Nile Crocodiles lie in wait!

If you want to swim with the wildlife then your best bet is to head a little further north to Sodwana Bay where you'll find any number of dive boats heading for Two- and Quarter Mile Reefs; popular with divers for their resident Ragged Tooth sharks.

Whether history marks him as murderous dictator or defender of the people, the land of the King Shaka is without doubt one of the most scenic areas of South Africa. If looking for adventure on the coast or simply admiring the scenery further inland, the kingdom of the Zulus will welcome you with open arms.

Originally published in travelideas, Summer 2009

Let's say a big thank you to Angola for skimpy thongs and golden tassles. Wait, hold on… don't turn the page just yet… bear with me for a second. It goes like this…

If the shiploads of African slaves hadn't brought their ritual 'semba' music to Brazil a few hundred years back it wouldn't have morphed into the 'samba' we see today. And without samba, all those lithe Brazilian women would be barefoot in the kitchen instead of bare-breasted atop a Carnival float.

The slaves' semba music was a bit like blues (who can blame them), but today the samba is an excuse to strip off, get down and shake some serious Brazilian booty. If that sounds like your idea of a damn fine spectator sport, start booking your tickets now for the 2010 Rio Carnival from February 13 – 16. You've just missed this year's shindig I'm afraid.

So, what's the deal?
The annual Carnival is celebrated across Brazil, but the four-day party that hits the streets of Rio 40 days before Easter is far and away the world's most famous, pulling in over 500 000 punters each year. The debauchery ends on the day before Ash Wednesday; the start of Catholic Lent when one is supposed to abstain from pleasures of the flesh.

Perhaps the Rough Guide to Rio puts it best: "Boasting the largest gathering of transvestites in the world, Carnival is infamous for its 'I-went-to-bed-with-a-woman-and-woke-up-with-a-man' style incidents. Leave your inhibitions at the airport!"

During Carnival (Carnaval if you're Portuguese) you'll find parties in squares, streets and clubs across the city, but they are all just a warm-up for the main event: the Samba Parade in the Sambadromo.

While it's just a massive party for the thousand of tourists and cariocas (Rio dwellers) on the grandstands, for the samba schools strutting their stuff it's a dance-to-the-death competition. Teams of judges rate each school on everything from their float theme and samba song to the glittering costumes. Or lack of.

Complete nudity is not officially allowed in the parade, but it's not unusual to find topless or near-naked beauties (of both sexes) wearing glitter, body paint and not much else!

And before the Carnival?
The good news is that there is more to Rio than four days of debauchery and dancing. You can promenade with the beautiful people along the glamorous Copacabana, join a volleyball game on the laid-back Ipanema beach (Saturdays are best) or pay your respects to the awesome statue of Christ the Redeemer on Corcovado mountain.

If all that sounds too taxing you can simply kick back and order a caipirinha; the national cocktail of Brazil. If you like mojitos you'll love this simple cocktail of cachaça (a local rum), lime and Muscovado Sugar. Best of all, in anything-goes Rio you can order them at your deckchair on the beach while you soak up the views.

The city boasts one of the world's most spectacular locations, washed up between glamorous beaches and towering peaks coated in thick tropical forest, so there are adventure options aplenty.

Surf-breaks abound at Prainha, nearby Tijuca offers incredible rain-forests for walking or you can rock-climb the iconic Sugarloaf Mountain. If you make it to the top you can even paraglide back down, getting a bird's-eye view of the Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvelous City) before floating down to earth on Copacabana's São Conrado Beach.

My bags are packed, any last words?
Well, one of the things you'll see from up above are the favelas (slums) stretched out above the city. These are desperate places home to desperate people, rife with drugs and crime which often spills onto the streets of Rio. Street-crime and pick-pocketing are common in Rio, so be cautious where you walk at night. You wouldn't take your video camera to Hillbrow at night, so don't do it in Rio! If in doubt, ask your hotel for advice.

But don't let it spoil your fun. As you'd tell your mates visiting Jozi from London – be aware of the bad stuff, but focus on the good. And my, oh my, with a few thousand tanned, toned and topless Brazilians ready to samba in the summer sun you won't be short of distractions.

Visit www.rio-carnival.net to find out more.

Originally published in GolfPunk magazine; March 2009.

Crayfish season closes in a few weeks' time, so hit the R27 to Paternoster and sample some 'red gold' on a West Coast weekend escape

RUSTIC: The Beach Camp (www.beachcamp.co.za; 082 926 2267)
It's all about getting back-to-basics at The Beach Camp, plonked on the rocky shoreline of Cape Columbine Nature Reserve. Choose a wooden A-frame hut (R250 pp) or dome tent (R200pp). The kitchen tent is well kitted out for self-catering.

When you get tired of watching the tide roll in and out, there is fishing, walking and some of the best sea-kayaking (guided tours R110/hour) in the country to enjoy. In springtime the reserve is a riot of colour as flowers carpet the hills, and the lighthouse is perhaps the best sundowner spot in the country.


HOMELY: Mosselbank B&B (www.weskus.com, 022 752 2027)
Petro and Koos make you feel like family at this owner-run B&B set a Frisbee-throw from the beach. The upstairs rooms are your best bet, with a balcony offering a view of the bright blue sea and, in season, whales cavorting in the bay. If the cold fronts roll in, the fireplace in your room will keep you cosy. The family unit and downstairs rooms don't have the views, but are a little cheaper if you're on a budget. The breakfast, like the warm welcome, is legendary. You will be return. R295-R365 pp


GREAT DEAL: Sugarshack (www.sugarshackcollection.co.za; 082 828 5168)
The candy-pink shutters are a hint that this isn't your usual West coast cottage. Beyond the white walls are three stylish bedrooms to share with friends and family, where playful touches abound from the woven heart above the bath to quirky art on the walls.

It's just two minutes walk to the beach, or kick back in the Adirondack chairs on the balcony and while away the late summer days. As the sun dips throw some crayfish on the braai or wander down to 'The Voorstrand' restaurant for a feast right on the beach. R1500-R2000/night for the cottage.

Originally published in Mango Juice; the in-flight magazine of Mango Airlines

Battling the Friday afternoon traffic out of Cape Town is never much fun;but as soon as you've cleared Grabouw, done a few turns through the Canola fields and whipped right at Caledon onto the R316 you know you're on your way to finding some peace and quiet.

Stop off in Napier (if you left town early enough) to pick up some fresh 'tuisgebak' at the ever-friendly farm-stall and then it's all downhill through Bredasdorp and onto the lonely road towards Cape Agulhas.

About halfway to the town of L'Agulhas (best to call ahead for directions) a dusty road takes you into the wild blue yonder. Through farm gates (this is sheep and cattle country) and across the plains until a yellow speck rolls into view atop on a hill.

Welcome then, to what owner Jenny Uys like to call her 'perfect peace of Africa'; and a more accurate description would be hard to come by.

Without another soul for miles around, Jenny's rustic farm cottage is the place I'd choose to hole up and write a book. Longhand, in pen and pencil of course, as there is no electricity at the cottage and that's just the way regular visitors like it.

Hot water comes courtesy of a donkey-boiler at one end of the cottage, with a plentiful supply of wood to ensure you'll have hot showers all weekend. Indoors; the low-ceilings and solid beams come straight out of Hobbiton, while the large hearth is perfect for crackly evenings spent in front of the fire while the winter nor'wester does its worst against the window panes.

When the weather's fine it's best to simply put your feet up on the rough stone wall and just let your pupils scan the horizon for nothing in particular. It's a place for reading that book you keep meaning to, catching up with old friends over a game of cards and simply taking a little time out from the rat race.

If your itchy feet can't keep still you can stroll across the farm fields (don't forget to close the gates) or cast a line in Soetendalsvlei for Carp or Black Bass.

Soetendalsvlei, I hear you ask? I hadn't heard of it either, but this is no pipsqueak of a farm dam and it's said to be the largest natural body of freshwater in Southern Africa. And it's right on your doorstep.

Lodge is perhaps a misnomer for this lovingly restored farm cottage, but personal touches abound and it's kitted out with everything a weekend escape artist could need.

"The house is fully equipped so all you have to bring along is food and some very nice wine to drink," says Jenny. Take wine, food and good company… how much easier can it be to enjoy a great weekend escape?

IF YOU GO…
Where it is: Near the southern tip of Africa, about 20 kilometres from L'Agulhas.
Why go there: Space, space and more space that you'll only have to share with the odd sheep and your chosen companions. Every frazzled city-dweller should have a country bolthole. This is one of my favourites.
What it offers: Two bedrooms sleeping six people in total, both en suite, leading onto a cosy lounge/dining room and through to a simple, but well-equipped kitchen. Remember that there's no power, so don't expect a dishwasher… you'll have to draw straws. Regulars will be glad to hear there's now a double bed in the 'old folks' bedroom.
What it's like: Screed floors, rough wooden beams and a rietdak ceiling set the scene nicely. Time will both slow to a crawl and fly by until you're on the road back to town, wondering when you can next return.
And the food: It's self-catering all the way, so you choose; but it would be a crime to not make use of the mountain of firewood and outdoor braai area. You can also pick up fresh fish at Struisbaai harbour.
What there is to see on the way: The Overberg's your oyster. Take a wander through Napier, stock up on the world-famous Kapula Candles in Bredasdorp or walk for hours on the longest white-sand beach in the southern hemisphere at Struisbaai.
Rates: Cheap as chips at just R170 per person per night, and kids under 12 stay free. Perfect for those credit-crunched wallets in 2009.
Getting there: Turn off the N2 at Caledon and follow the R316 to Bredasdorp, then the R319 towards L'Agulhas/Struisbaai
Contact: Call Jenny on 082 493 8875 or email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it . For more info you can also visit www.budget-getaways.co.za.

LOCAL ATTRACTION
A visit to the rough and rocky Cape Agulhas is a great way to spend a morning if you want to go exploring, and briefly be the southernmost person in Africa.

Since 1848 the famous lighthouse here has cast its beam 50-kilometres out to sea to warn passing ships of these treacherous shores. For R15 (open 9am – 5pm daily) you can climb to the top for great views of the surrounding coastline.

The jagged rocks off Agulhas have claimed over 2000 ships over the years, and a great place to explore the history of the area is at Bredasdorp's excellent Shipwreck Museum; the only one of its kind in Africa.

Housed in an historic building at the centre of town, this quirky museum is home to a fascinating collection of artefacts and memorabilia, telling the stories of some of the famous shipwrecks in the region, including the Arniston and Birkenhead. The sailors of the Birkenhead are credited with starting the famous nautical tradition of 'women and children first' when abandoning ship.

» Originally published in the Sunday Times; March 29 2009.