Mosaics.
Who would have thought that discovering humble mosaics would be one of the most memorable moments of my all-too-short visit to New York City?
I was expecting many things from my trip to the Big Apple. Towering skyscrapers, brusque New Yorkers, corn beef on rye sandwiches, ubiquitous yellow cabs. Shards of tile, however, were far from my mind.
And yet it’s mosaics, dotted across the East Village like breadcrumbs left by an artistic Hansel, that seem to catch my eye at every turn.
“See the mosaic of the beaver, up there in the eaves?” asks Andrea, pointing to the ceiling of the Astor Street subway stop. “You could say New York was built on beaver fur; it was one of the exports that made the early Dutch traders fabulously wealthy. You’ll see that beaver motif all over New York.”
And Andrea should know. As a New York local (although she now lives over the East River in Brooklyn) she knows the city backwards and is one of the extraordinary volunteers with an organisation called Big Apple Greeter.
Offered as a service to New York visitors, a ‘Greet’ – offered free of charge – pairs tourists up with a local who will show them the city for a few hours. It’s a visit, not a tour; so don’t expect a head full of facts and figures. Instead, you’ll get to know a small slice of the city, understand how the subway works and peek under the covers of some of New York’s multi-faceted neighbourhoods.
As we climb the subway steps out into the bright autumn sunlight of Astor Place there’s more public art on offer. A five-square-metre black steel cube known as ‘Alamo’, sculpted by artist Tony Rosenthal, has been perched on one corner here since the ‘60s and dominates Astor Place, named for 18th-century beaver-magnate John Jacob Astor.
But it’s the rubbish bin next to it that catches my eye. And then the lamppost. And the road-sign across the street. Each of them intricately decorated in a tapestry of pottery shards, glass and mosaics.
“These are all done by Jim Power, a homeless artist who has been in the area for years,” explains Andrea. “I was hoping he’d be around here today, but…” she trails off.
Carefully themed to their surroundings, Power’s mosaic murals commemorate everything from the 9/11 attacks to rock gods from the ‘60s; the latter on a lamppost outside where the legendary Fillmore East concert hall used to stand.
Jimi Hendrix and The Who may well have had a few pints at McSorley’s Old Ale House around the corner on East 7th Street. Opened in 1854, just three families have owned it in its 150-year history and today you’ll still find sawdust scattered on the floor and an apronned barman pulling pints.
But it’s too early for a drink, so we keep walking. Up one block to St. Mark’s Place, where St. Mark’s Comic Shop holds thousands of vintage comics and every action figurine you could ask for. It’s heaven on earth for adults who never left their childhood behind.
Across the block is Trash & Vaudeville, a glam-punk clothing store that resolutely refuses to leave the ‘70s. “We used to have some wild times in the Village. I used to shop there,” Andrea says a laugh. “Now my daughter does!”
This schizophrenic mish-mash of cultures and cliques is typical of the East Village, a suburb of immigrants where cultures mingled and merged. European Jews were first, Germans followed and when they left the Ukrainians, hippies and beat-poets moved in.
Veselka, a 24-hour Ukrainian restaurant on Second Avenue, has become one of lower Manhattan’s most popular diners. New Yorkers flock here from across the city for a plate of pierogis; steamed (or fried) Hungarian dumplings filled with anything from spicy rocket to sweet pumpkin.
We wander back down Second Avenue and Andrea pulls me into the Gem Spa, a legendary café serving a Manhattan institution. ‘Egg Cream’ contains neither – it’s a curious mix of syrup, soda water and milk – but is as New York as corn beef on rye.
And there is no better place to sample the quintessential New York sandwich than the Lower East Side; the spiritual home of the deli.
The pavements are buzzing as we walk to the area where hundreds of thousands of Jewish immigrants crowded into tenements in the late-1800s. Although many of them prospered and moved on, they left behind a legacy of fabulous bakeries, delis and restaurants.
It’s impossible to ignore Katz’s Deli on East Houston Street; home to the city’s most celebrated Corn Beef on Rye sandwiches and made famous in ‘When Harry met Sally’. A sign with “I’ll have what she’s having” still hangs over the ‘orgasm’ table today. It’s a cheerful, no-frills place filled with gawking tourists and hungry locals.
A few doors down, the family-owned Russ & Daughters deli has been open since 1914, “and we still get customers coming in who’ve been shopping here for the past 60 years,” a smiling Nicky Russ tells me over a counter brimming with kosher goodies.
The typically Jewish deli is an ‘appetizing’ store and sells only fish, dairy and baked goods. The closest you’ll get to meat is a ‘pastrami-spiced salmon’, one of a dozen varieties of cured salmon on offer. Along with wonderful cream cheese and fresh-baked bagels it’s the perfect place to stock up for a picnic.
And where better to enjoy it than a few subway stops across town on the newly opened Highline Park.
Where Central Park is spacious, lush and an escape from the city, the Highline embraces the cityscape of Chelsea. Landscaped on an abandoned elevated-railway track, the Highline runs for about 10 blocks (with another 10 in the pipeline) to the old Meatpacking District where butcher’s yards and warehouses are being transformed into chi-chi boutiques and top-end restaurants.
It’s been 25 years since the last train trundled along these tracks, but clever landscaping with hardy grasses and indigenous shrubs, and the addition of sleek concrete walkways and wooden benches, has turned this derelict railway into the city’s most exciting open space.
And perhaps that’s why I fell in love with New York. It’s a bright and brash metropolis that is home to some of the world’s greatest architecture and art galleries, yet cares enough to give a set of old railway tracks a new lease on life. Family-owned delis last for generations, vacant lots transform into community gardens, and simple lampposts become works of art.
The Highline and Jim Power’s street-art may be overshadowed by Central Park and the Guggenheim, but even in the Big Apple small things matter. A little like those mosaics.
TRAVEL TIPS
- Where to stay: I loved the Hotel Beacon on the Upper West Side. The rooms are some of the most spacious I found in New York, and come with handy kitchenettes. The views over Central Park and Midtown are wonderful and it’s right across from the bountiful Fairway Market. It’s a great spot to feel like you’re ‘living’ in New York, not just visiting as a tourist, and it’s only a few subway stops from the bright lights of Times Square. Visit www.beaconhotel.com or call 001 212 787 1100.
- Big Apple Greeter: If you’re a first-time visitor you shouldn’t miss out on a visit with a Big Apple Greeter. It’s a marvellous way to be introduced to the city and will help you find your feet in no time. Visits, which last around 2-4 hours) are free of charge, and Greeters do not accept tips. Find out more on www.bigapplegreeter.org.
- Flights: A number of major international airlines fly to New York, but I flew via Abu Dhabi with Etihad Airways. It may take a little longer, but you’ll find a cheaper fare and the award-winning airline’s brand-new Airbus fleet is a pleasure to fly on. Visit www.etihadairways.com or call 0800 98 2363.
- Top tip: The New York Citypass is a great way to save money. For just $79 you get entrance to six of the city’s top attractions, including the Empire State, Statue of Liberty and the three major art museums. You’ll save 40% on the usual admission price, and get to skip the long lines. Go to www.citypass.com.
- Web: Visit the official New York City tourism board website at www.nycgo.com
Published in the January 2010 edition of Garden & Home magazine.
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Want to go wandering, but don’t have grands of Rands? Here are six exotic overseas destinations that won’t send your bank manager running…
India
Why go? Whether you’re a beach bum or intrepid explorer there’s little you won’t find in India. Jungles prowled by endangered tigers, ancient forts marooned in the desert, lake palaces, exquisite monuments, exotic temples, towering mountains… the country has it all, and that’s without mentioning the glorious food. India is dirt-cheap on the Rand, so if you don’t mind sharing it all with a billion locals India is your oyster.
When to go: India is vast, so when also depends on where. Monsoons hit the southern regions in May/June and move across the country. December and January are your best bet for clear skies and mild temperatures in the most popular tourist areas.
Make it happen: You’ll need to apply for a visa, but these are issued free of charge at the Consulate in Durban or Johannesburg. Flights start from about R6000 return, and you can either fly direct from Johannesburg on SAA, or get a cheaper fare with one of the Middle Eastern airlines. Travelling around is cheap if you live like a local and use the extensive train system, the world’s largest. Expect to pay from R50 – R150 per night for a double room in a decent small hotel.
Indonesia
Why go? With 17 000 islands flung across 5000 kilometres of ocean, there’s an island destination for everyone. The western reaches of Sumatra are prone to earthquakes, but surfers let nothing stand between them and the legendary breaks of the Mentawai Islands. You’ll find more great surf and sand on the popular holiday island of Bali, which is also famous for its affordable spa retreats in Ubud. On Java you’ll get ancient temples and rumbling volcanoes, while the Gili Islands off Lombok are the place to turn to turn up, tune in and chill out.
When to go: Straddling the equator, Indo is hot and humid almost any time of year. In most parts of the country there’s slightly more rain (which usually comes in short, intense downpours) from October to April, but you’ll also benefit from low season prices and fewer European tourists.
Make it happen: A visa-on-arrival will cost you $25 and a clean and a comfortable beach bungalow will set you back as little as R150/night for two. The easiest way to get there is via Singapore on Singapore Airlines. Expect to pay from R8000 for a return ticket from Johannesburg. Keep an eye out for super-cheap stopover specials.
Madagascar
Why go? Enjoy tropical paradise just a few hours from Johannesburg, with a healthy dose of adventure thrown in for good measure. Choose between an island-hopping dhow expedition through the northern islands, hiking through the spectacular spiny forests of the west coast, whale watching in the east or tracking rare lemurs in the tropical rainforests of the Central Highlands. Just surviving the chaotic streets of the capital Antananarivo is a story in itself!
When to go: The best time to travel in most areas is April and October/November, and you’d best avoid January to March when there’s heavy rainfall across the country and a high risk of cyclones in the northeast. Hotels get full (and expensive) during the European holidays in July and August.
Make it happen: All passport holders require a visa, which can be issued at the Consulate in Cape Town, or Embassy in Pretoria. Accommodation ranges from pauper to prince, but you should get a decent double room on the coast for around R350. Don’t forget the island is malarial, so see your travel doctor well before you leave! You can fly from Johannesburg to Antananarivo with Air Madagascar or Airlink, with fares starting at around R5000.
Argentina
Why go? Buenos Aires, the ‘Paris of South America’, is full of faded glamour and long-legged Latino women dancing the sensual tango. The glaciers and forests of Patagonia are like nothing you’ve ever seen, while the snow-capped peaks of San Carlos de Bariloche offer excellent skiing in winter. Aconcagua, the highest peak in South America, towers above the wineries of Mendoza, and the cataracts of Iguassu form one of the world’s most spectacular waterfalls.
When to go: Similar to South Africa, spring is gorgeous just about everywhere in Argentina. If you want to explore Tierra del Fuego or climb the high Andean peaks you’ll have to visit in the height of summer. Which is just as well, as it’s the time to avoid the steamy tropical north.
Make it happen: South Africans can get a visa on arrival at Buenos Aires, so there’s no paperwork to worry about! A decent guesthouse double room will cost around R200, but is likely to be about 25% higher in Buenos Aires and Patagonia. South African Airways is now giving Malaysia Airlines a run for its money on the SA-Buenos Aires route. Expect to pay around R8000 return.
Peru
Why go? Hidden to the western world until the early 1900s, the ancient Inca city of Machu Picchu ranks as one of the world’s greatest wonders. Whether you tackle the Inca Trail or take the lazy route to the top, the sight of this ancient citadel (and the altitude!) will leave you breathless. With a camera full of photos set off to explore the rest of the country, from the floating villages of Lake Titicaca to the gorgeous Pacific beaches.
When to go: Late May until early September is the best time to visit Machu Picchu so it’s wise to plan your trip around then. If you’re sticking to the coastline, hot and humid December to March is best as the central and southern beaches are cloaked in garúa (coastal fog) for the rest of the year.
Make it happen: No visa is required for tourist visits up to 90 days. A double room will cost from around R150/night, but considerably more in the capital Lima. A permit for the Inca Trail is a hefty R2400, but can you really put a price on a view like that? You’ll need to fly via Buenos Aires or São Paulo (both served by SAA). You won’t get much change from R10 000, but once you’re there the living is cheap.
Jordan
Why go? Home to the enigmatic ancient city of Petra, Jordan is the ancient foil to the glitz and glam countries of the Middle East. Once you've soaked up the 2000 years of history, head to the blood-red dunes of Wadi Rum to experience a night out in the desert. Go for a little float around the oh-so-salty Dead Sea, and then wash the sand out of your hair with a dip in the coral-filled Gulf of Aqaba. End off your trip with a bittersweet cardamom coffee and fragrant nargileh water pipe in Amman, enjoyed to the hip-swinging beat of Arabic pop.
When to go: Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are best, with mild daytime temperatures. March can be cold and rainy in the north, but is perfect for diving in the Gulf of Aqaba. Snow can fall in some parts in winter, so go prepared, and avoid travelling during the (very quiet) holy month of Ramadaan.
Make it happen: An entry visa is issued on arrival, and will cost around R100. A decent room in a mid-range guesthouse will set you back about R250 per couple. Fly there with one of the Middle Eastern carriers: a return ticket can be yours for around R6900 all-in.
First published in HIgh Flyers magazine, |
As hidden attractions go, Cape Town's Noon Day Gun is hard to miss.
Jaded office workers barely look up from their desks when the cannons of Lion Battery boom across the city, but tourists are easy to spot, jumping in alarm with the frenzied look of someone under attack.
In truth, though, the two 18-pounder smooth-bore muzzle-loading guns on the slopes above the city have not been fired in anger since the short-lived Battle of Muizenberg on 7 August 1795.
That’s just one snippet of Cape Town trivia you’ll discover on a visit to the Lion Battery on the rump of Signal Hill, where each day an officer from the South African Navy regales a small crowd of tourists and curious locals with the history of Cape Town’s oldest living tradition.
Cast by London’s Walker & Company in 1794, the two cannons were brought to the Cape during the 1795 British occupation and for over a century were fired from the Imhoff Battery in the city bowl.
The noon firing wasn’t simply a case of trigger-happy soldiers, though. The daily firing allowed ships to set their chronometers to the correct time — vital information when navigating by sextant on the high seas. During the First and Second World Wars the daily firing was also used to mark a two-minute silence for the fallen.
In 1902, with the city of Cape Town growing around the Imhoff Battery, the decision was made (presumably encouraged by deafened residents) to move them to their current site on the slopes of Signal Hill.
The two cannons — only one is fired, but both are loaded daily in case of a misfire — are the oldest of their type in the world and, as the signboard at the Battery will tell you, have been fired over 63 800 times since 1803. In all that time it has failed to fire only once — in January 2005.
Although the Battery now falls within the Table Mountain National Park, the South African Navy is still responsible for firing the guns six days per week. Sundays are for rest … and peace and quiet.
So, with cannons loaded, how is the gun fired (video) at exactly noon each day? The apocryphal explanation goes like this. A man walks into a Long Street watchmaker, and notices that all the clocks on the wall are showing precisely the same time. “How do you always know the correct time?” the man asks.
"Well, I simply listen for the Noon Day Gun, and I set all my clocks by that," replies the watchmaker.
Intrigued, the man decides to visit the Noon Day Gun, and asks the Navy officer on duty how he knows when it’s exactly noon to fire the cannon. "Well," says the officer, holding a telescope to his eye, "there’s this watchmaker down there on Long Street with a clock in the window …"
The reality is far more precise. An electrical signal is sent from the South African Astronomical Observatory (which has an unfailingly accurate atomic clock) a few milliseconds before noon. This burst of energy zips across telephone lines, ignites the firing cap on the cannon, sparks the gunpowder and … boom!
"… a slice of the Cape’s culinary history…"
The show might be over for another day, but that's only half the attraction of this corner of Cape Town. Just a short walk from the cannons you'll find a slice of the Cape’s culinary history.
At the top of Longmarket Street, surely the steepest road in Cape Town, the last house on the left has been home to the Misbach family for over 65 years. For the last 16 it’s also been home to one of Cape Town’s loveliest restaurants, the Noon Gun Tea Room and Restaurant.
Long popular with overseas tourists, curious locals are slowly starting to venture up the steep cobbled street to tuck into the delicious bredies, breyanis and bobotie cooked up by Zaini Misbach and her family.
"These are all my grandmother’s recipes. Passed on from her grandmother, and then her grandmother," says Zaini. "The original Malay people made do with the spices they found here in the Cape so they are spicy dishes, but toned down from what you’d find in the East."
Main courses range from R75 to R95, but come in hearty portions that offer great value for money.
Whether you stop in for a recession-busting bredie or just block your ears at the stroke of noon, this is certainly one corner of the Cape’s colourful history worth exploring. Noon Day Gun
For more info:
- Lion Battery, Military Road, Bo-Kaap. Turn from Buitengracht into Bloem Street, and follow the signs. Arrive before 11.45am to hear the history of the Noon Day Gun. Admission is free.
- The Noon Gun Tea Room & Restaurant is at 273 Longmarket Street, Bo-Kaap. Phone 021 423 9978. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday. Lunch only on Sundays. In keeping with Malay culture, no alcohol is served, or allowed, in the restaurant.
First published on http://travel.iafrica.com courtesy of www.mediaclubsouthafrica.com. |
The Whale Trail could easily have been called the Bottlenose Dolphin Trail, the endangered Black Oystercatcher Trail, the Deserted Beaches Trail or the Pristine Fynbos Trail. We saw all of these and more on the five-day, 55-kilometre wander through the De Hoop Nature Reserve, but in the end the best part of all remained the daily whale acrobatics.
Lying 240 kilometres east of Cape Town, the De Hoop Nature Reserve is known as the jewel in the crown of Cape Nature, the Western Cape’s nature conservation body. The reserve covers around 34 000 hectares, but the offshore marine protected area is just as important. Stretching five kilometres out to sea, it is one of the largest protected ocean areas in Africa and provides a sanctuary for an array of marine life.
Marine life like the whales gamboling just behind the breakers, and the pair of African Black Oystercatchers that keep me company as I grab a seat on a rock to jot a few notes in my Moleskine.
But let me go back a few days.
Despite its name the Whale Trail starts a dozen kilometres inland in the shadow of the Potberg. It’s here that new arrivals settle into the first night’s hut, get briefed by conservation staff about do’s and don’ts for the trail, and get set to tackle five days of wilderness.
Not that the trail is all about hardship. Each of the five overnight huts is well equipped with bunk beds, hot showers, flush loos and cosy living areas. What’s more, you can pay a little extra to have your luggage portaged from one hut to the next, so you only have to walk with a day-bag for your lunch, camera and raingear.
The trail has rapidly become one of the country’s iconic hikes, so popular you need to book months in advance if you want to walk it during the peak whale season from August to October. Even if you walk out of season, when whales are few, it remains one of South Africa’s most incredible walks.
Day one
If the weather plays ball you’re bound to see one of the trail’s highlights a few minutes into the first day’s walk, as you ascend the slopes of the Potberg. The 611-metre peak will certainly get you puffing, but the sight of endangered Cape vultures — Potberg is home to the last breeding colony in the Western Cape — soaring on the thermals will make you forget all about those aching legs.
The summit is worth the huffing and puffing too, offering magnificent 360° views, with the Breede River and Langeberg Mountains to the north and the dazzling Indian Ocean to the south.
You won’t reach the sea on your first day. From the top the path winds its way through unspoiled fynbos, down into the Melkhout River (a great spot for lunch and a swim) and then over one last hill to the hut at Cupidoskraal. Boots off, shower on (or grab a swim in the nearby dam) and celebrate: the most strenuous day is behind you.
Day two
Not that the second day’s route is a walk in the park. Make an early start, as you’ll have 14.7 kilometres to cover, and the first stretch heads straight up the flanks of the Hamerkop. The fynbos is just as stunning as the Potberg, but luckily it’s only 45 minutes to the top and then a long meandering stretch towards the sea.
Take your time and keep an eye out for some of the reserves smaller beauties. Delicate ericas, rustling restios and colourful watsonias — along with hundreds of other fynbos species — hide among the thick stands of protea.
As you drop off the sandstone mountain onto the limestone cliffs, the changing vegetation is the first clue that you’re approaching the coast. Through a riverbed, past a flock of blue cranes (South Africa’s national bird), around a bend and … there it is, Noetsie, the first of three spectacular coastal huts you’ll call home for the most impressive section of the Whale Trail.
As I arrive and drop down my pack a southern right whale cruises into the small bay, her young calf huddled beside her. Just 50 metres from the shore, they skirt the rocks and linger in the shallows for a minute before moving on. Spectacular.
It’s almost as spectacular as the dolphins that use the bay as a playground that evening. Up to 40 bottlenose dolphins glide, leap and hunt through the stormy waters in a grand show of bravado, either for us or themselves. I brave the chilly waters for a quick swim, but the currents can be swift here so I don’t venture deeper than my waist before heading back to the braai fire at the scenic seaside lapa.
Day three
Day three is perhaps the best of the entire trail. You’ll feel your calves working on the steep climbs up and down the eroded limestone hills, but you can rest them in the calm pools of Stilgat come lunchtime, and long flat sections along the cliff-tops allow ample time for spotting whales, dolphins and birds. Apart from oystercatchers, you’ll see white-breasted cormorants, Hartlaub’s gulls, terns, sandpipers and — bizarrely — Egyptian geese along the trail.
The restless sea has eroded the limestone cliffs into fantastical formations, but it has also claimed its fair share of victims. Apart from countless shipwrecks along this coast, the last steps of the day wander past the small granite memorial to Daniel de Wet, washed off the rocks here in 1933. The pounding surf has carved some lovely rock pools to explore at low tide, but it’s a stark reminder to always keep one eye on the sea.
A kilometre from where De Wet met his end, the Hamerkop hut is perfectly situated just behind the dunes. A wonderful two-story cottage, the second-floor deck is the best spot for sundowner whale-watching. Even after dark you should keep an eye out for wildlife; Hamerkop Hut is home to a curious spotted genet, who regularly visits to see what all the fuss is about.
Day four
The penultimate day dawns and a long beach walk lies ahead. But it’s only 7.8 kilometres to the next hut, so take it easy on the soft sand beaches and enjoy the sensation of a beach with no other footprints but your own. The route wanders past Lekkerwater, once the holiday home of former President FW de Klerk.
Keep an eye out for the camouflaged nests of the oystercatchers: they lay their eggs just above the high-tide mark. From sand and up onto more cliffs, you’ll wander past magnificent blowholes where the high tide blasts up through gaps in the soft limestone.
It’s the same limestone the last night’s hut is perched on. Vaalkrans has the most dramatic position of all the overnight stops, clinging to a cliff some 50 metres above surf crashing onto wave-cut platforms. More spectacular sunset spots are hard to come by.
Day five
It takes no more than three hours to walk the final stretch to Koppie Alleen, but leave plenty of time to explore at Hippo Pools, a wonderful network of rock pools where you can cool off before catching the shuttle-bus back to Potberg.
Whether you walk for the whales or the vultures, the fynbos or the wide open spaces it’s easy to see why hikers from across the globe are flocking to this wonderful trail through the Overberg. Dust off your hiking shoes, book some leave and come and wander with whales.
For more on walking the Whale Trail, visit CapeNature at http://www.capenature.org.za.
Originally published on http://travel.iafrica.com, courtesy www.mediaclubsouthafrica.com.
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The dhow is mesmerising. Battling against the southerly trade wind, its patchwork lateen sail pulls against the mast, straining the makeshift rigging to breaking point. With the crew lazily bailing out the bilges and leaning to windward for ballast it all looks a little haphazard, but these dhows have been sailing these waters for over 500 years.
“They must know what they’re doing,” I think to myself as I wander off to find a lounger.
Arab traders brought them down the east coast in search of gold and slaves to trade for their spices. They found both in abundance on the coastline here at Mombasa, and for hundreds of years the Portuguese and Arab traders battled for supremacy of this strategic island city. Little wonder then Mombasa’s Old Town was known in kiSwahili as Kisiwa Cha Mvita; ‘Island of War’.
But those days are long gone. Mombasa may still be the largest port in East Africa, but today the most lucrative trade is in the tourists who flock here to enjoy the long white sandy beaches that seem to stretch on forever. With a gentle slope, fringing coral reef and swaying palms there are sections of coastline that might as well appear in the dictionary alongside ‘paradise’.
The city itself is a bustling, chaotic place; an enjoyable excursion, but not the place to be for a little R&R. Luckily it’s easy to escape the chaos of Kenya’s second city and enjoy the sands stretching out to the north and south of town.
Sea and sand. Two things Mombasa has in abundance. Apart from the odd bit of seaweed that washes up, the coral sands are as gleaming white as you could ask for, and the seas the clear turquoise postcards are made of.
Even Karen Blixen – she of ‘Out of Africa’ fame – waxed lyrical about that view: “The sea at Mombasa is as blue as a cornflower… the long breakers of the Indian Ocean draw a thin crooked white line, and give out a low thunder even in the calmest weather. "
That low thunder comes from the Indian Ocean breaking on the second-longest barrier reef on the planet, which runs from Somalia all the way south to Tanzania. A rich wall of coral teeming with marine life, it makes for excellent scuba diving. Some stretches have been hit by over-fishing, but areas within Kenyan waters are declared marine parks, and are a delight to snorkel and dive.
Further out the deep-sea fishing in the area is legendary, with record marlins taking the bait in season and great reef fishing (outside of the marine parks, of course) all year round.
About the only thing that’ll keep most beachgoers out of the water is the wind. The east coast of Africa is famous for the strong, steady trade winds. The southeast monsoon wind that brings rain and rough seas is the one to watch out, but the kusi only blows between May and July. At most other times of year the gentler kaskazi blows out of the north, taking the edge off the steamy tropical heat.
These steady winds – along with flat reef-protected seas and warm waters – have made this stretch of coastline one of the world’s top kite-surfing destinations, and kiters flock here from across the globe.
If that sounds a little extreme, most beachfront resorts offer a range of fast-but-fun sailing boats for you to use. And if you don’t know how to sail there’s sure to be an instructor on hand to greet you with a friendly ‘Jambo’ and show you the ropes.
Chances are you’ll be staying at one of the resorts strung out along the coast north and south of town. From trendy all-inclusive hotels to more basic beach bungalows, there’s something to suit every pocket and taste.
After sampling a few of them, my favourite is still the Serena Beach Hotel & Spa to the north of Mombasa that offers delightful rooms built in the style of a traditional Swahili town. Lush gardens separate the four-room villas, while carved wooden balconies – complete with naughty macaques – overlook courtyards that melt into winding lanes leading towards the beach.
Every morning as I wandered out onto the lush beachfront lawns, eyes peeled for a spare sun lounger to settle into, I’d find myself unconsciously scanning the horizon. Without fail I’d see a lonely dhow making its slow, but steady way through the warm waters of the Indian Ocean. Resorts now line the beach and tourists are the new gold, but perhaps – after 500 years of sailing these waters – not that much has changed after all.
Kenya Airways flies daily from Johannesburg to Nairobi, with easy connections to Mombasa. For reservations, call 082 2345 786 or visit www.kenya-airways.com.
For Serena Beach Hotel & Spa bookings visit www.serenahotels.com or call Johannesburg reservations on 011 0212 607/8/9.
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Thu 03 Dec 2009 |
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Business Traveller: Cape Town |
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From world-class hotels and conference venues, to the city’s finest restaurants; Business Traveller has rounded up the best of the best for your next visit to the Mother City…
>> WHERE TO STAY
Westin Grand Cape Town
It’s hard to beat the Westin when it comes to location, location, location. Built as part of the precinct around the Cape Town International Convention Centre it’s ideally placed for attending events at the CTICC, or the CBD is just a short walk away. The hotel offers over 480 sleek modern rooms, each boasting floor-to-ceiling views over the Mother City. There’s a well-equipped gym in the top-floor spa (try out the pool with a view) or book one of the WestinWORKOUT® Rooms that come fitted with state-of-the-art gym equipment.
You’ll like: that there’s free wireless Internet access in all rooms
Web: www.starwoodhotels.com
The Cullinan Hotel
If you’re watching your budget (and who isn’t these days!) The Cullinan will help to knock a little off your expense account. It’s still in a great location though, just minutes from the city centre and CTICC, and a short walk from the popular V&A Waterfront. There’s a small business centre on-site, and wireless Internet available throughout the hotel.
You’ll like: that it’s a more affordable option in a great location
Web: www.southernsun.com
Cape Royale Luxury Hotel and Residence
Overlooking Cape Town’s gleaming football stadium, the Cape Royale is one of the new faces on the trendy Green Point block. The elegant façade and marbled entrance give the Cape Royale a vintage European flair, but the 95 suites are decidedly modern. The large (minimum 63m²) suites all feature a well-equipped kitchenette, while lavish bath products, good coffee and designer furniture make this a welcoming home-from-home. The Equinox Spa also recently launched a convenient Executive Spa Menu if you need a treatment on the run.
You’ll like: the complimentary transfers within a 5-kilometre radius of the hotel, and double-glazed windows to ensure a good night’s rest.
Web: www.caperoyale.co.za
The Grand Daddy
Just because you’re on business doesn’t mean you can’t have fun! The Grand Daddy in trendy Long Street is ideal for travellers with an eye for design with a sense of humour. Cape Town ‘décor-magician’ Tracy Lynch has infused each room with a sense of local style, so why not splash out on one of the Sugar Daddy Suites which each have their own secluded, wooden-decked patio. The hotel also offers two multi-functional spaces for meetings and events.
You’ll like: the Daddy Cool Bar, one of the hippest places in town for meeting over drinks.
Web: www.granddaddy.co.za
Vineyard Hotel & Spa
If you prefer to escape the city after 5pm, the historic Vineyard Hotel in leafy Newlands is ideal. With its 175 rooms spread over six acres of stunning gardens on the banks of the Liesbeeck River, this four-star hotel has the feel of a country estate. However, it’s just 15-minutes from the city centre and is the perfect place to relax and recharge after a busy day. Once you’ve soaked up the mountain views the hotel offers a top-notch fitness centre as well as two excellent restaurants. The Cavendish Square shopping centre is five minutes’ walk away if you need some retail therapy.
You’ll like: to reward yourself with a massage at the serene Angsana spa.
Web: www.vineyard.co.za
>> WHERE TO EAT
95 Keerom
With his own Karoo farm and fishing boat to ensure his meat and tuna are of the finest quality; Executive Chef Giorgio Nava takes fresh ingredients seriously. So it’s no surprise that the authentic Milanese cuisine from his kitchen has made this one of Cape Town’s top eateries. Choose between the elegant open-plan upstairs or one of three more intimate rooms on the ground floor. A stylish private-dining room can accommodate up to 12 people.
Insider’s tip: don’t miss the Butternut Ravioli with Sage Butter Sauce.
Web: www.95keerom.com
Jardine
Voted one of SA’s top 10 restaurants in 2009, Jardine is the place to woo clients or celebrate a done deal. Contemporary European cuisine using the finest local ingredients is the signature of Scottish-born chef George Jardine. The five-course chef’s menu paired with some of the Cape’s top wines is ideal for that special occasion.
Insider’s tip: Ask for a table away from the kitchen, where it can get noisy.
Web: www.jardineonbree.co.za
Salt
If you’re in the Cape you need to be by the sea, right? Well, few restaurants have a front-row view that can compete with Salt. Floor-to-ceiling sunset views are well matched by the modern Cape cuisine – with an Asian twist – whipped up by globe trotting chef Dave Winton. The restaurant boasts an impressive wine list, with over 70 wines by the glass for you to toast the sunset.
Insider’s tip: Book in advance to get a table at the window.
Web: www.newmarkhotels.com
Beluga
A firm favourite with Capetonians, Beluga is buzzing almost any night of the week. The open courtyard is perfect for after-work drinks, while inside the glam Art-Deco restaurant is perennially packed with diners enjoying the excellent wine list, varied menu and decent prices. Need to impress your clients? Reserve the glass-walled Wine Attic for a private function and enjoy dinner surrounded by over 7000 bottles of premium wine.
Insider’s tip: The service can be patchy when things get busy, so get your orders in early.
Web: www.beluga.co.za
Cape Quarter
It’s been a long day; you’re tired and just need to unwind a little. Head straight to the Cape Quarter in colourful De Waterkant where you’ll be spoilt for choice. The open courtyard is idyllic on warm summer evenings, and you can take your pick between sushi at stylish Tank, Italian at Andiamo, fine wines at Chenin or let your hair down a little at the Mexican-inspired Fiesta.
Insider’s tip: Street parking in De Waterkant is a nightmare, so head straight for the underground parkade in Hudson Street.
Web: www.capequarter.co.za
For more great business travel tips in Cape Town, get the latest issue of Business Traveller magazine. |
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