I was 23 years old when I first met my grandmother Liisi. An elfin face with smiling eyes peering around the door of her neatly trimmed house in a small coastal village in Essex, England. The years were etched deeply on her cheeks, but the twinkle never left those mischievous eyes as she told us – all the while fussing over the plates of food she was famous for – in her lilting Scandinavian accent of her youth in Finland, a country more famous for Nokia and Marimekko than its rich history and outstanding beauty.
I said my last goodbyes to Liisi in Helsinki's Hietaniemi cemetery, planting smiling daisies at her Tuomainen family gravestone on a glorious mid-summer's morning. After half a century in England she had passed away peacefully and her ashes had been brought to rest in the country she loved.
She'd been born in Ylämaa, a small trading town in eastern Finland, but moved to the capital as a young woman. Of all the tales she told, the one that sticks in my mind is of her walking across the frozen sea to work on one of the hundreds of islands that make up the archipelago surrounding the Finnish capital.
The seas are clear on our warm summer day though. Having said our goodbyes at the cemetery we wander down to the Helsinki harbour-front where the famous fleet of sturdy ice-breakers are safely tethered to their summer moorings. Gone are the sub-zero temperatures and snowy streets; the clear Finnish air is filled with the soft evening light of long summer days on the doorstep of the Arctic Circle. It's a time when the capital springs to life as Finns come out to play; pavement cafes are packed with trendy office workers and the Gulf of Finland teems with sailing boats.
It's no surprise that Finns love the water. With over 300 000 kilometres of coastline there is plenty of space for their 750 000 boats! Frozen commuting aside, the sea has long played an important role in the history of Helsinki and a boat trip around the islands is a great way to get a feel for the city and soak up the fantastic views of the Helsinki skyline.
Sightseeing trips leave from the Marinkasernskajen pier at the bottom of Esplanade Park, a green lung in the heart of the city, and take anywhere from a few hours to an entire day to meander through the maze of islands where wealthy Finns own holiday cottages, each with a sauna on the jetty and steps down to the Baltic for a bracing dip.
Your first stop will be the island fortress of Suomenlinna; literally the "Fortress of Finland". This UNESCO World Heritage Site stretches across six small islands and, due to its strategic location in the Gulf of Finland, has seen fierce battles throughout its 250-year history. Although cannons still guard the fortified ramparts, and a few naval areas are off-limits to tourists, the fortress was opened up to the public in the mid-70s and has since become a popular destination for Finns and tourists to walk and picnic. The fortress is one of Helsinki’s main attractions and, apart from sight-seeing tours, is also easy to access on one of the commuter ferries that leave every half hour from the market square.
Built in 1748 when Finland was ruled by Sweden, Suomenlinna is just one reminder that for centuries Finland was a political football squabbled over by Russia and Sweden, and even today the Finns are not especially fond of their eastern neighbours. Yet contrary to what you'd expect, while the Swedes left behind an impenetrable sea fortress the Russian legacy is both sacred and stunning.
The Uspenski Cathedral; Finland's most important Russian Orthodox Church and the largest in Western Europe, is a magnificent site. Placed regally on a hill overlooking the harbour, the green and gold onion domes glinting in the sun are a powerful reminder of the sway that Mother Russia once held over the Finns.
Not as ornate, but equally impressive, is the striking Lutheran Church that dominates the Senate Square a few steps away. Compared to the elaborate Uspenski Cathedral the stark white interior of the church is a breathtaking contrast that is striking in its simplicity. The expansive Square is also where locals come to see in the New Year in the depths of winter, but in the long summer days the Senate steps are simply a great place to marvel at the city skyline.
"But where are the forests?" I hear you ask. "Tell me about lakes and Lapps, forests and fjords!"
Well, there isn't much to tell I'm afraid. With its coiffed streets and stylish architecture Helsinki is a world away from the dank forests and dark lakes further north. Your best bet, if you don't have time to venture further afield, is to head for Seurasaari.
Just 20-minutes from the city centre, Seurasaari is an open-air museum celebrating the rural culture of Finland. The main attraction is the number of historic wooden houses dismantled from across the country and reconstructed here as a living museum, but the island is also simply a wonderful break from the city streets. Paths meander through the forest, squirrels harass you for nuts and swans paddle elegantly through the waters of the Gulf of Finland. It's the perfect place to pack a picnic and spend the day out of the city.
Speaking of food, eating and drinking in the Euro-zone is likely to give your credit card palpitations and Finland is among the worst culprits. If you can stomach the high prices though, the city is your culinary oyster. Save those cents and fork out for Reindeer in Elderberry sauce washed down with berry vodka at the wood-panelled 'Lappi', or splash out on the R900 Lappish game selection, which includes grilled Elk fillet, fried Deer sausage and roast Reindeer.
If you're on a budget, or looking for Seurasaari picnic supplies, the harbour-front kauppatori is home to a vibrant marketplace in the summer. Pocket a punnet of fresh cherries, bag a bread from the nearby indoor market, grab some smoked herrings off the fishermen's boats and you'll have a feast for under R100. For something warm, local stalls sell generous plates of vendace (similar to British whitebait) and chips for around €10
It's worth saving a few euros too, as the Fazer shop in Kluuvikatu is one place you can’t miss. This Helsinki institution been in the same spot since 1891, and has become the capital's most famous coffee shop. The best cake and coffee in town shouldn’t set you back more than about €5, and the experience of living the Helsinki café life is a real highlight. No wonder Liisi often stopped off there to warm up after her walk across the icy sea.
With its high style and haute cuisine, Helsinki is one of Europe’s undiscovered gems. Brimming with history and combining cutting-edge culture with age-old customs, the Finnish capital is rapidly becoming one of the hottest destinations in Scandinavia. Start saving now…
» Originally published in The Weekender Travel & Food, 16 November 2008. |
"Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats."
Kenneth Grahame may have written 'The Wind in the Willows' nearly a century ago, but his touching tale of Toad, Mole and Rat taking to the water in search of adventure and good times is as inspiring today as it was back then.
But the sailors taking to the waters of Table Bay this December to compete in two of South Africa's premier yachting regattas are going to be doing more than simply messing about in their boats.
From the fun-filled CROCS Summer Regatta in and around Table Bay to a downwind dash across the South Atlantic Ocean, there is bound to be high adventure on the high seas in Cape Town this summer.
The Cape of Good Hope has a rich nautical history, dating back to 1652 when Jan van Riebeeck established a refreshment station here for passing ships of the Dutch East India Company. In those early days the sailors could rest, restock and take shelter from the howling Southeaster – nowadays affectionately known as 'The Cape Doctor' - which whips across the Cape Flats in summer and turns Table Bay into a sea of white-caps.
And in 350 years not much has changed: the strong seasonal winds still put sailors to the test, and the welcome on dry land is as warm as it was back then. No wonder the city is also known as the Tavern of the Seas!
"Sail hard, Party hard." That's what the CROCS Summer Regatta is all about, says Ron Keytel, Sailing Officer at Royal Cape Yacht Club. Based on the Caribbean's popular Antigua Week, the CROCS Summer Regatta will showcase the magnificent sailing on offer in and around Table Bay.
Unlike the round-the-buoys sailing of the famous Lipton Cup "the emphasis is on longer races to actual places," says Keytel. One day will see the fleet racing towards the sparkling waters and glistening beaches of Clifton (covered, as usual, with glistening sun-tanners), while other courses will be out towards Robben Island, where former president Nelson Mandela spent 18 years behind bars, or ending in the popular V&A Waterfront.
Wherever the yachts are headed, the magnificent skyline of Table Mountain will be the backdrop to four days of competitive yachting in the chilly waters of Table Bay.
Rob Meek, the Organising Chairman, says that up to 70 boats are expected to enter the regatta, making for exciting racing.
"Between our local and overseas yachts we have a range of entries from racing boats to more sedate cruisers, but the regatta is really about exploring the corners of Table Bay.
"However, last year we arrived at Clifton in the pouring rain to find the beach completely deserted. Even our welcoming party of bikini girls had left, so this year we're hoping for warmer weather!"
While the (hopefully) sunny skies and short courses of the CROCS Summer Regatta will make for enjoyable day-racing, the hardened yachties on the quaysides of Cape Town are also gearing up for one of the world's most famous blue-water regattas: The Governor's Cup.
"The Governor's Cup is an exciting 1700-mile summer ocean race from Cape Town to James Bay on St. Helena Island," says Andrew McKenzie, Vice Chairman of the False Bay Yacht Club, which organises the race. "Entrants typically range from fast racing boats with experienced crews to cruising boats manned by small families."
Famous for its stunning sub-tropical landscapes and as the final resting place of Napoleon Bonaparte, St. Helena is a paradise in the South Atlantic only accessible by sea. The supply ship RMS St. Helena sails from Cape Town to the island roughly every four weeks, and accompanies the fleet to the island, but if you haven't booked a berth then a yacht is your only ticket to the island of Saints!
Held every two years since 1996 The Governor's Cup isn't always plain-sailing though.
In 2006 the fleet was hit by a fierce cold front on the first night out of Cape Town. "Cold, wet and seasick" is how many of the crew described themselves, says McKenzie. Which brings to mind the sailors' adage: "For the first hour that you're seasick you feel like you're going to die. After that you're worried you won't!"
So what's the attraction in spending 10 days at sea getting damp and delirious, you might ask?
While the cut-glass trophy donated by the Governor of St. Helena in 1996 is incentive enough, Petr Muzik, who won the Cruising class on his yacht 'Shoestring' in 2004, reckons that the race is quite simply a life-changing event.
"St Helena will blow you away with its charm and hospitality. The sail there is idyllic in the South East Trades and the 1650-odd miles will bring back happy memories for years to come."
Warm island hospitality is just one of the attractions of sailing in The Governor's Cup.
In a previous race the organisers were alarmed when one yacht veered a long way off the conventional course to the island. Was it storms or sickness that had pushed the yacht out into the Atlantic? No, it turned out that the crew were all keen anglers and wanted to try their luck on the Vema Seamount in the South Atlantic!
From day-sailors to salty sea dogs, it's not hard to see the attraction of "messing about in boats", but as one weathered sailor on the quayside of False Bay Yacht Club remarked recently: "A yacht race is really just an excuse to go sailing".
True words indeed, and the Governor's Cup and CROCS Summer Regatta are as good an excuse as any to enjoy a few days (or weeks!) on the water this summer.
The Governor's Cup starts in Table Bay at 2pm on 29 December. Visit www.thegovernorscuponline.com to find out more.
The CROCS Summer Regatta takes place from 13-16 December in Table Bay. Visit the website of the Royal Cape Yacht Club at www.rcyc.co.za
» This article was originally published in Sawubona , the in-flight magazine of South African Airways.
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"It's the end of the world as we know it, and I feel fine".
Michael Stipe was running through my head as our Aerolineas Argentinas flight from the sub-tropical steaminess of Buenos Aires wheeled to starboard and dived for the runway at Ushuaia's tiny international airport .
The flight into Ushuaia is not for the faint-hearted. With a runway built on land reclaimed - no doubt without a fight - from the storm-tossed Beagle channel and an approach that dodges the jagged peaks of the Andes and Chilean airspace (the latter being more important) this is no gentle touchdown. It's only once the screaming (engines, not passengers) dies away that you realise you've made it. This is the end of the world, and you are fine.
Clinging to the little toe of South America at a few minutes shy of 55 degrees from the equator, Ushuaia is generally agreed to be the most southernmost town on earth. There is the small matter of that Chilean navy base across the Beagle Channel at Puerto Williams, but any Argentine worth his football shirt will tell you that the Chileans built that just to annoy them. But I digress…
"… the best place to start exploring is down at the pier…"
Ushuaia (pronounced oo-swai-ya) draws tourists from across the globe throughout the year, but is perhaps a little curious in its popularity. At first glance there is little to recommend it… from the air it seems a nondescript settlement clinging to the slopes of Cerro Martial. With deserted streets and snowmelt on the outskirts it's curiously reminiscent of Northern Exposure's Cicely, only Chris the hot DJ speaks Spanish.
As with many seaside towns the best place to start exploring is down at the pier, Ushuaia’s Muelle Tourístico. It’s here where you’ll find a number of tour operators running trips out into the Beagle Channel, and no journey to the deep south is complete without a trip onto this magnificent waterway linking the Atlantic to the Pacific.
Although it’s very name means 'Land of Fire', when you’re crouched in the cabin of one of the many boats sailing on the strait that separates Argentine and Chilean Tierra del Fuego it’s hard to think of any flames other than the ones in the hearth keeping the cabin a toasty twenty degrees above the freezing temperatures outside.
With winds blowing straight up from Antarctica, the temperature in the channel can plummet unexpectedly, and snow can fall at any time of the year. As tempting as the fire may be, don a down jacket and brave the outside deck and you’ll be rewarded with sightings of black-browed albatrosses, giant petrels, Magellanic penguins and even the occasional orca. Wildlife aside, the landscape stretching into the distance has hardly seen the touch of civilisation and appears much as the indigenous Yamana people would have seen it a thousand years ago.
During the summer months yours is unlikely to be the only boat out on the Channel. Although Ushuaia is over 1000 kilometres north of the Antarctic Peninsula it’s still the world’s closest harbour to the great white continent and many tourists leave from here to cross the storm-tossed Drake Passage that separates the two. Regular cruise ships leave from the harbour between November and March, with many calling in at the Malvinas (as the Falklands are known in Argentina) and South Georgia. Trips last anywhere from eight days to three weeks and cost upwards of $3000; not a cheap holiday by any means but certainly an experience worth every cent.
But don't worry if you can't afford a visit to the wilds of Antarctica. Tierra del Fuego is an untamed landscape itself, and it's this very edge-of-the-world remoteness that attracts thousands of visitors to the region every year.
One of the most popular excursions is down the coastline to Lapataia Bay, the small harbour in the Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego. Just 12 kilometres west of Ushuaia, the park’s 630km² of dramatic coastline, pristine mountains and lakes overflowing with trout and salmon attracts adventurous tourists from all over the world.
Well-marked trails meander across the Parque, and a good map is available free of charge form the tourist office in town. Keen walkers can happily spend a few days exploring from sea to peak, wandering through ancient beech forests and past beaver dams while Magellanic woodpeckers and steamer ducks flap overhead. Keep an eye out for the rare sea otter and Patagonian grey fox, which are also found in this area. The park is accessible by boat or car (regular mini-buses also run from Ushuaia), and is a popular day trip to enjoy the scenery and adventure activities.
How low can you go?
If you're the competitive type, Ushuaia is a great place to pick up accolades that'll fuel dinner party one-upmanship for months to come. Apart from standing on as near as damnit to the end of the Americas, you can also play a round of 18 on the world’s most southerly golf course or take a ride on the southernmost train in the world, unsurprisingly billed as Tren fin del Mundo; "The Train at the End of the World".
Steam train sound too sedate? Even if it’s just for the bragging rights of hitting the slopes so far south, the mountains around Ushuaia offer fantastic skiing and snowboarding from May to September and it's well worth hitting the slopes. The Glacier Martial seven kilometres behind town is the closest run to Ushuaia, while Cerro Casto (26 kilometres away) offers up to 15 kilometres of pistes. If you’re looking for something a little different, there are also several winter-sports centres in the area which offer ice-skating, snow-shoe excursions, snowmobile trips and dog-sledding.
All that fresh air is bound to work up an appetite, and thankfully Ushuaia does not disappoint when it comes to cuisine. Lamb from the Patagonian steppe a few hundred kilometres north compares with the best the Karoo has to offer, but it’s the seafood that’ll have you coming back for more. The region’s rivers teem with salmon and trout that are slapped on the grill not long after being hooked, and won't set you back a fortune. The region’s speciality though is the mighty Centolla, or King Crab.
Sporting spindly legs up to a metre from tip to tip, these colossal crustaceans make for fine eating. Just be sure that it’s fresh though, as frozen or tinned crab is often used out of season.
The eclectic Volver seafood restaurant on the sea-facing Avenida Maipú is certainly one of the best in town, offering well-priced seafood and fantastic views of the Beagle Channel. Given that it's over 3000 kilometres to the nearest vineyard their wine list is also fairly reasonable. No surprise then that the best tables with a view are often booked up, so make sure you reserve a seat in advance.
For something lighter, take a wander through the coffee shops and restaurants scattered along the bustling Avenida San Martin, where you can pick up anything from pizza to a traditional Argentine parilla. The Argentines are famous for their chocolate, and a mug of traditional Ushuaia hot chocolate is the perfect way to beat the chills after a day in the mountains.
Chilly it may well be, but like the fictional Cicely, Alaska, there's a quirkiness and character to Ushuaia that makes it more than a place to escape from. After days spent tramping through the forest or sailing the seas made famous by Sir Francis Drake, this charming little town - shoulders hunched against the elements - is as fine a place as any to enjoy the end of the world.
If you go…
Getting there: Malaysia Airlines flies twice-weekly from Johannesburg to Buenos Aires, stopping in Cape Town en route. From BA, it's a 3½-hour flight on Aerolineas Argentinas to Ushuaia. A metered taxi from the airport into town costs about R25. Long-distance buses from Buenos Aires will take about 36 hours to reach Ushuaia.
Accommodation: Ushuaia offers everything from backpacker hostels (often with comfortable en-suite rooms) to five-star hotels. The excellent tourist office at 674 Avenida San Martín can help you find accommodation in town and has a wealth of information on local tours and attractions. The Cumbres del Martial Hotel (www.cumbresdelmartial.com.ar) is a little way out of town, but boasts one of the best views in town at the foot of the glacier chairlift and is popular with skiers in winter.
Currency: Argentina is an affordable destination for South Africans. The current exchange rate is R2.57/$1 (Argentine Peso).
Visa: South Africans do not require a visa for Argentina for trips shorter than three months.
Language: Spanish is the official language of Argentina. Although English is spoken in most tourist areas a smattering of Spanish will certainly help you get around.
» Originally published in the Saturday Star Travel supplement; December 2008
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Tue 18 Nov 2008 |
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Robertson's quieter cousin |
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Selecting an appropriate holiday read is perhaps one of the most important parts of my pre-trip preparation. Richard Dawkins' discussion on the hereafter made good reading in Hindu-heavy Bali, AA Gill kept me company on the Danube and Gregory David Roberts' 'Shantaram' (largely fictitious though it may be) is unbeatable on a long-haul flight.
 But for a long weekend on the languid Breede River, glass of wine in hand and canoe tugging gently at the jetty? Well, it's hard to beat 'The Wind in the Willows': a classic celebration of life's simple joys; good food, friendship and the beauties of nature.
So with a well-thumbed early edition of Kenneth Grahame's 1908 classic tucked safely between the bottle opener and the braai-broodjies we tackled the road to Bonnievale on a busy Friday morning.
"After all," says Mole, "the best part of being on holiday is perhaps not so much to be resting yourself, as to see all the other fellows busy working."
Bonnie-where I hear you ask? Well, that's exactly the point.
The Breede River valley has become a popular destination for Capetonians and up-country wanderers alike, thanks in no small part to the marketing of Route 62 through the winelands to Oudtshoorn. But while the wine-tasting day-trippers converge on Robertson to gorge themselves on the area's delicious reds, anyone with more time on their hands would do well to keep going for an extra 20 minutes to the 'dorpie' of Bonnievale.
Hang a right at Robertson and follow the Breede most of the way into town: a "sleek, sinuous full-bodied animal, chasing and chuckling, gripping things with a gurgle and leaving them with a laugh… all was a-shake and a-shiver – glints and gleams and sparkles."
Through the dusty main street, past the obligatory NG steeple and out the other side of town brings you, after a pasture and vineyard or two, to the wonderfully named Peet-se-Plek.
The 'peet-oom' (godfather) has since passed on down the river, but the cottages on Jan and Maretha van der Merwe's farm Merwespont are still very much a family affair.
Peet's is a simple place; comfortable enough for a country bolthole and with few frills to push up the price. Besides, you'll spend most of your time outdoors on the wooden deck overlooking the river. The deck faces west, the braai faces west, the view of the vineyards stretches to the horizon. Do you need any more reasons to be here at sunset?
It was so very beautiful that the Mole could only hold up both fore-paws and gasp, "O my! O my! O my!"
"But isn't it a bit dull at times?" the Mole ventured to ask. "Just you and the river, and no one else to pass a word with?"
Well, your days can be as half-empty or half-full as you like. If watching the river head seawards is a little sedate, the cottage has its own canoe for a leisurely paddle or you can cast a line for Black Bass, Eel and Carp. The river is teeming with them. Allegedly.
The valley is also home to 10 wine estates and two major cheese producers so it's no wonder the brochure proclaims it "the valley of cheese and wine."
It's typical of this laid-back corner of the winelands. Low on glitz and marketing-speak and big on the simple country way of life. It's an ideal getaway for anyone looking for a quiet escape that will, with any luck, remain unchanged forever; like the wind in the willows.
IF YOU GO…
Where it is: Outside Bonnievale, off the R317.
Why go there: Live out your Huckleberry Finn fantasies at this tucked away riverside escape. Just you, the braai tongs and Old Man Breede.
What it offers: Beds for six people in three bedrooms. Small kitchen and indoor braai for those occasional rainy days, but in summer you'll live out on the deck. There's a small patch of grass too, but keep an eye on small kids as there's a steep slope down to the river.
What it's like: More like Water Rat's comfy cottage than the palatial Toad Hall, but perfect for those who prefer character over mod-cons.
And the food: It's self-catering all the way, although Heidi at the Merwestein Farm Kitchen next door can whip up a no-nonsense dinner of old Cape favourites on request.
What there is to see on the way: The vineyards of R62 are your oyster. Take a slow (and sober, with a designated driver!) wander through the vinous delights of the Robertson wineries. For a round trip back to Cape Town head home on the N2.
Rates: A bargain at just R100 per person per night, with a minimum of R400 for the cottage. For long weekends the minimum tariff is R600/cottage/night.
Getting there: Follow the N1 and R60 to Robertson. Turn onto the R317 for 36 kilometres and follow the signs. Or call for directions.
Contact: Telephone 023 616 3151 or email
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
. Visit www.peet-se-plek.co.za for more information.
LOCAL ATTRACTION
It may be overshadowed by the local NG Kerk, but the story behind the Norman-style Mary Myrtle Rigg Church makes it well-worth a visit. Her father, Christopher Forrest Rigg, was a successful businessman and landowner who laid the foundations for the present-day town of Bonnievale.
As Myrtle lay dying of meningitis in 1911 she asked her father to build her a church so that Bonnievale would be considered a 'proper' town. Her grief-stricken father kept his promise and in 1921 the small church was built of local sandstone in her favourite playground, a lucerne field near her home where she lay buried.
The modest church boasts stained glass windows from England, an Italian marble floor and a door shipped in from Zanzibar. Keep an eye out for the statue of Mary Myrtle at the entrance. In the background is a rose tree with seven roses, depicting the seven years of her life. Ask for keys and direction at the tourist information bureau (023 616 3563) in the Main Road.
» This article originally appeared in the Sunday Times, 9 November 2008. |
"Guut moooooooorning! Zis is Hans!"
It's 8.30am – in Bavaria, I think - and Hans Beckert, our ever-smiling, patience-of-a-saint cruise director, is doing his best to hustle 150-odd passengers from boat to bus. Instructions rattle cheerfully from the intercom as the passengers of the Avalon Tranquility clatter off the gangplank and head into town for a day of exploring.
The Tranquility is one of a number of cruise ships plying the rivers of Europe, offering a stress-free way to criss-cross the continent. Routes range from a few days to over two weeks, but when it comes to the classic cruise through Europe it's hard to beat a week on the legendary Danube.
After an optional three-day visit to Prague, the cruise itself begins in the quaint German town of Nuremberg. The town is perhaps most famous for hosting the post-war trials of Nazi war criminals, but that sad chapter has been largely washed from the city, and the cobbled squares and lively village market makes it a wonderful place to spend a few hours. The town is also famous for the lebkuchen and festive finery for sale at the Christkindlmarkt, held each December.
Sailing out of Nuremberg, Lutheran church steeples rise above the terracotta roofs of villages dotted amidst a sea of cornfields. With locals waving from the riverbank and rolling hills of ploughed fields, the slow stream of scenery is mesmerising. A hypnotic procession of countryside where you're left wondering what ruined castle or quaint village lies in wait around the next bend.
Danube means 'deep river' in Celtic, but from the rooftop viewing deck of the Avalon Tranquility the river looks shallow and peaceful. No waves to splash over the deck, no rolling swell to make you seasick… the Danube is, on the upper reaches at least, the river mild.
One of the highlights of the journey downstream is the medieval town of Regensburg, which is famous for two things: alcohol and religion.
The town dates to AD 179, when the Roman fortress Castra Regina ('fortress by the river Regen') was founded during the reign of Emperor Marcus Aurelius. Fought over and conquered throughout its history, the town's dramatic stone bridge over the Danube rattled to the hooves of the Crusaders, who gathered here on their way to the Holy Land in the 11th and 12th century.
Nowadays though it's a peaceful sort of place; a university town home to 20 000 students who no doubt enjoy the labours of the monks at the Weltenburg Abbey outside town. Tucked away amongst the cliffs of the Danube Gorge, Weltenburg's beer taps started flowing in the year 1050 making it the oldest monastic brewery in the world. So that's alcohol, what about religion?
The town was, until 2005 when he moved to Italy, home to one Joseph Alois Ratzinger. Ratzinger's house is now a popular stop on the tourist route, although nowadays he's better known as Pope Benedict XVI. Popes aside, the magnificent Gothic cathedral of St Peter is the highlight of a wonder through the old town.
The excursion to Weltenburg Abbey is just one of a number of historical sites to be seen along the Danube. Cruising has long been a favourite pastime of the older traveller, but if you like to get out and about each day and still have a comfortable cabin to return to each evening, then river cruising is ideal.
The itinerary changes each day, but most mornings will see you waking in a new town, setting off to explore after a generous buffet breakfast. In each town there is an included tour, along with a variety of optional excursions (at an extra cost). Passengers return to the ship for a buffet lunch and the ship sets sail sometime in the afternoon for the next port of call.
Dinners are smart-casual affairs, served in a single sitting, with local wines included. Although most of the cruising is done at night to allow time to explore the towns en route, a few sections are sailed during the day allowing passengers to enjoy the passing scenery
From Regensburg the Danube heads to the south-east, where it crosses the border into Austria and heads through the town of Passau. The town made its fortune from the trade in wine, wheat and salt, and the city's St. Stephen's Cathedral houses the world's largest church organ with over 17 000 pipes! However, it's also the spot where most cruisers hop on an optional excursion to Salzburg, the birthplace of Mozart where the Von Trapp's found the hills alive with the sound of music.
Whether you sing-along through the Austrian Lake District or drift downstream on-board, your next port-of-call is Linz; a take-it-or-leave-it city that's most famous as the industrial heartland of Austria. Enough said.
Setting sail from Linz at sunset, the new day brings you to the most spectacular part of the journey; the Wachau Valley. After a morning visit to the 18th century Melk Abbey your floating hotel pushes out into the current and motors slowly downstream through the heart of Austria's wine-producing region. With cliff-top castles and towering spires, the Wachau combines the beauty of Franschhoek with 1000 years of history.
With a glass of the Wachau's finest in hand, keep an eye out for the ruined castle above the village of Durnstein. In 1191 English King Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned in the Castle for offending the local Duke during the Crusades. King Richard had tried to sneak through the region dressed as a peasant, but was discovered and tossed into jail. His loyal minstrel Blondel tracked him down by wandering along the river singing a popular English ballad until the King joined in. It later cost England 23 000 kilograms of silver to secure his freedom!
"Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar"
As the Wachau vanishes behind a bend in the river, the cosmopolitan city of Vienna rises into view on the right bank. A stunning city of extravagant Baroque architecture, it seems each building is grander and more elaborate than the next. From St. Stephen's Cathedral in the centre of the Old Town to the magnificent Hofburg Palace you could easily spend a few days exploring the city and surrounds.
Vienna is also the city of Sigmund Freud, the father of psychoanalysis. His house at Berggasse 19 is now a museum and displays many of the original furnishings and his letters. Before you read too much into his empty cigar case, remember Freud's warning over interpreting phallic symbols: "Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar".
A celebratory cigar is just the thing to indulge in for your last night on the river as the captain puts his foot down to sail overnight for Budapest. The beguiling mix of Gothic architecture and Communist legacy sets Budapest apart as the cosmopolitan capital of Eastern Europe, The liveliest city to emerge from Communism, the 'Paris of the East' boasts outstanding architecture and historic attractions, but part of the joy of the city is simply finding a pavement café on Andrássy Road and watching the world go by.
It's not unlike being back on board really. Whether you're in a pavement café or on the Tranquility's roof-top viewing deck, watching the ebb and flow of life pass you by is one of the best ways to get a feel for the historic cities of Europe.
USEFUL INFO
- Avalon Waterways is represented in South Africa by Holiday Tours. For more information visit www.holidaytours.co.za or call 0861 102 137
- Find out more about the Avalon Tranquility at http://travel.avalonwaterways.com.au
- South African passport holders require a Schengen visa, as the tour passes through the Czech Republic, Germany, Austria and Hungary.
- British Airways flies daily from South Africa to London and on to Prague, the starting point for the cruise.
» This article originally appeared in Diversions Magazine, October 2008. |
At first I thought I'd been fooled. I had spent the best part of the day flying from Cape Town to experience the Okavango Delta; a lush landscape of rivulets and hippo pools where Red Lechwe and Sitatunga leap from the grasslands sending cascades of water into the humid sub-tropical air.
But this? This dry, dusty landscape falling away below us? Surely this couldn't be the world-famous Okavango Delta?
The view from our Airvan as we bounced our way across the thermals toward Xudum airstrip was of a desiccated land, parched at the end of a long dry winter.
But as they say, patience is a virtue and before long the landscape began to change, little by little transforming into the green sea of water, grassland and termite islands I'd been expecting.
You see, the Okavango Delta is a land in constant flux. From May to August the floods arrive from the highlands of Angola, spreading the watery tendrils of the Delta as for south as the tourist hub of Maun. Nope, contrary to what you may think, it's not the heavy summer rains that form the famous floodplain, but the meandering waters of the Okavango River flowing from their source 1600-kilometres away to empty into the world's largest inland delta.
During this time the water, and the wildlife, is spread far and wide until the rivers start to dry up in summer. From December to March the rains arrive, soaking the landscape and providing welcome relief from the heat for animals human or otherwise. As the rains peter out in April and May the floods begin to trickle southwards again, marking the best time to visit the Delta.
As some wise man once said, the only thing that's constant is change. I wonder if he'd visited the Delta?
There are few better places to witness this change first-hand than Xudum Delta Lodge, one of two lodges in the Okavango recently built by respected safari operator &Beyond (formerly known as CC Africa).
Situated on a permanent channel of the Delta, Xudum is frequently marooned by the floodwaters, providing an exciting entrance for guests as the only way to or from the lodge is by boat!
As the waters recede though the lodge becomes an island in a sea of grassland; oceans of tawny Turpentine Grass wave in the wind, perfectly camouflaging the tawny cats that stalk these plains. Red Lechwe are common in these parts, as are zebra, giraffe and large herds of buffalo, all of which you'll get to meet on daily game drives.
Well-trained rangers – CC Africa boasts some of the best in Africa – bring the landscape to life, and when the big five are hiding you can rely on guides like Ona and Basha to point out a myriad of fascinating plant and bird life that your careless city eyes failed to spot.
When you're exploring a sea of grass it seems fitting to have a wooden cabin to return to. The nine luxurious safari suites at Xudum are built entirely of wood and make the most of the outstanding vistas stretching out over the reed beds. Deep baths, billowing mosquito nets and a romantic roof-top day bed make this the perfect honeymoon escape.
While Xudum enjoys a sea of grasses, its sister lodge a short boat ride away offers a different experience altogether.
Situated on its own private island, Xaranna Tented Camp is cut off by water almost all-year round. Now before you scream 'Robinson Crusoe!' and have images of talking to your own private Wilson à la Tom Hanks, remember that when CC Africa does a tent on an island it is the canvas dream to end all those teenage camping nightmares. This is one island you would happily be marooned on!
Elephantine beds, alfresco showers and yet another heavenly day bed complement the quirky decor that make this camp ideal for the design-conscious younger traveller. Sure, you might need to save your pennies for awhile, but for that once-in-a-lifetime Delta experience it's worth the chunk of change it'll cost you to spend the night in one of the nine intimate suites.
At Xaranna the water confronts you at every turn. Each group of guests is assigned a ranger and tracker to make your Delta dreams come true. Mokoro rides are on tap and are the perfect way to get up close and personal with the landscape.
Keep a keen eye out for Painted Reed Frogs (the tip is to look near the top), have your binoculars handy for Fish Eagles and African Jacanas or just sit back and enjoy the gentle swish of the traditional canoe through the reeds. Oh yes, and try not to remember that you're poling along the same channels the notoriously grumpy hippo use to wander the Delta. Luckily the oversized herbivores stick to the pools during the day and only go a' wandering at night.
Ambling along on a mokoro seem all too sedate? There are speedboat safaris, fishing trips and game drives to enjoy that'll get your pulse going.
Whether you're kicking back with a G&T in your private sala or admiring the evening glow from your sundowner stop on a private island, the ever-flowing waters of the Okavango Delta will keep you entertained one way or the other.
Visit www.andbeyond.com to find out more about Xudum and Xaranna, or call +27 11 809 4300.
» This article originally appeared in Indwe, the in-flight magazine of SA Express airlines. |
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