The Karoo has always been a place for wanderers. The soles of the nomadic San Bushmen were the first to raise plumes of dust from South Africa's great semi-desert as they trod the sun-baked plains they called 'Garob': dry thirstland.

Living in harmony with the seasons, they followed the rain and the game, inscribing their lives and visions on the walls of overhangs throughout the Western Cape.

To the south and east of the Great Karoo, beneath the basalt cliffs that tower over the expansive Plains of Camdeboo, they followed vast herds of springbok. Herds so great that later settlers said they took days to pass through town, and yet more days for the dust to settle once the buck had moved on in search of greener pastures.

Greener pastures that are few and far between, for searing heat, sun and dust are a fact of life in the Karoo.

"It is a country flooded by sun; lonely, sparse, wind-swept, treeless on the flats for many miles," writes Eve Palmer, whose book 'The Plains of Camdeboo' is perhaps the most evocative history of the Karoo ever written.

Yet the harsh conditions didn't stop settlers and explorers from following in the Bushmen's footsteps. And unfortunately, it wasn't a happy meeting.

The arrival of Europeans inevitably led to clashes over scarce resources, with both sides fearing the other. Colonists and travellers regularly hunted Bushmen in the hills, while "no man journeying across the Karoo, no farmer tending his animals, was ever safe" from the Bushmen's poisoned arrows, writes Palmer.

In the end muskets trumped arrows and today the only evidence you'll find of these ancient people is their mysterious rock art daubed on cave walls in paint of ochre and blood.

However, many travellers came to explore, not exterminate. Some of the 19th century's greatest naturalists wandered through the Plains of Camdeboo, collecting and documenting as they went.

Carl Thunberg, 'the father of Cape Botany'; Andrew Sparrman, the Swedish naturalist; and William Burchell all passed over the Plains which stretch to the horizon around the present-day town of Graaff-Reinet.

Burchell went on to become one of the century's greatest botanists, and in his four-year journey through the Cape he covered 4500 miles and catalogued over 40 000 plants, writes Palmer. Robert Moffat, who would later become father-in-law to one David Livingstone, also passed through in the early 1830s.

They would stop at places like the Melkrivier (Milk River) and Leeufontein (Lion Fountain), to find precious water in the desert. And if they were lucky they would arrive in the rainy season, when the landscape is transformed.

Eve Palmer, whose family have farmed on the Plains of Camdeboo for over 120 years, puts it best: "Within days – hours, it seems – the dust-dry soil is engulfed in succulence, every bare twig covered with leaves, the plains enamelled with flowers, the air filled with scents. The mountains cascade water, the rivers and pools brim over, frogs bellow, birds fill the trees and bees make honey all over the countryside. The great intricate web of Karoo life begins to function once again."

There is without doubt an abundance of life and vitality in the Karoo, yet few things put down roots. It's only the hardy, determined and passionate that can grow a dream, blurred by the shimmering heat, into a reality.

Mark and Sarah Tompkins managed to see through the mirage when they first came to the Plains of Camdeboo in 2000. Wavering above the over-farmed landscape they saw a vision of the Plains restored to how they once were.

"Here moves a steenbok, a springbuck, a lark clapping its wings above us; here are the tracks of an ant-bear in the soil;" writes Palmer. "Red dust and a mottled egg upon it; arrowheads; the smell of rain, karoo bush, wild asparagus; mountains and hills floating in a mirage of water; a white hot sky; the sound of cicadas and wings and wind."

Falling head over heels in love with the Camdeboo, the Tompkins' set about achieving their dream of restoring the land to how it was before settlers arrived.
A land where Sweet Thorn Acacia coloured the land; and grass, not gravel, blanketed the hillside; where herds of antelope roamed the plains, keeping a wary eye out for the cheetah that hide in the shade of a Shepherd's Tree.

"The dream ensued," says Sarah. "Amass enough land to have a self-sustaining eco-system that would carry the game, the herds of antelope that used to inhabit this area and the predators to keep the balance that helps maintain these fragile eco-systems."

And so they began buying up overgrazed farmland and Monkey Valley was the first of 11 farms that would, eight years later, form the 70 000-acre Samara Private Game Reserve. These old Karoo farms were famous for their hospitality to passing travellers and, happily, nothing has changed.

The five-star Karoo Lodge is the heart and soul of Samara Private Game Reserve, where twinkling paraffin lamps welcome you home after an evening game drive out on the Plains.

There are three luxury Lodge Suites in the old homestead, each individually decorated with an Afro-chic collection of antiques, zebra skins, African ceramics and nineteenth-century memorabilia. They all open out onto a deep wrap-around 'stoep' that's simply perfect for long, lazy afternoons gazing over the veld.

A stone's throw from the homestead are three free-standing Karoo Suites which offer the same level of luxury, with the added benefit of a bit more privacy and quirky touches such as an outdoor shower in an old Karoo water tank. Expect a romantic fireplace for those chilly Karoo nights, free-standing Victorian baths to wash away the dust and Yellowwood four-poster beds to lull you to sleep.

The Karoo Suites are without doubt your best bet if you're looking for uninterrupted peace and quiet, as Samara prides itself on being a family-friendly game reserve.

Children of all ages are welcome at the Karoo Lodge, with special activities such as fossil-finding and bug-hunts to keep them entertained between game drives. Thoughtfully there is even a special play area set up – a respectable distance from the lodge – for them to pitch tents, play games and generally go wild.

...What you want, when you want it, is the name of the game here...

Come dinner time, the lodge is your oyster as the team ensures every meal is an occasion in itself.

Executive chef Quintinn van Rensburg conjures up a feast of dishes inspired by the Karoo and served in a different spot almost every time; from local Karoo Lamb and crème brulée in the formal dining room, to a picnic lunch by the river or a braai in the boma.

You can expect something similar at Samara's latest addition, the exclusive-use Manor House.

'What you want, when you want it, is the name of the game here, with a personal chef, butler and ranger on hand to ensure your stay is perfect, and nothing seems to be too much trouble for the ever-friendly staff.

With dramatic vistas of the Aasvoëlberg (Vulture Mountain) and distant Tandjiesberg (Tooth Mountain) this intimate lodge sleeps just eight guests in four luxurious rooms, each with private patios and Karoo views. Your days will follow a similar pattern as guests at the Karoo Lodge, with morning and afternoon game drives out into the reserve in an open safari vehicle. In between game drives you can cool off with a few laps in the 21-metre infinity pool overlooking the waterhole, have a picnic out in the reserve or just treat yourself to a well-earned afternoon nap. Those 5.30am game drives take their toll, after all!
Bleary-eyed or not, it's well worth hauling yourself from under the down duvet and onto the open-top Land Cruiser for the morning drive.

Samara boasts a wide range of animal life; from the common Duiker and Kudu, to the magnificent Gemsbok, giant Eland, and flamboyant Nyala. Black Eagles soar above the crags and Clapper Larks leap into the air, beating their wings together as they fall back to earth.

Our ranger André says it's a male looking for a mate, but the Lark may just be applauding the recovering landscape, as abundant Spekboom and Sweet Thorn Acacia make the most of the late-summer rains. When the Tompkins' merged the farms they pulled down boundary fences, ploughed over eroded farm roads and removed alien vegetation across the reserve.

Six years ago, with the landscape well on the road to recovery, it was time to slot in the one piece of the ecological jigsaw which hadn't been seen on the Plains of Camdeboo for nearly 125 years. Cheetah.

Sibella was the first cheetah to arrive at Samara and is far and away the queen of the reserve. And, true to her feline ways, she's had to make full use of the nine lives at her disposal.

Born in the wild, Sibella nearly met her end at the hands of hunters in the northern Limpopo province. Then caged and cruelly treated in captivity, she was lucky to make her way to the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Trust, who operated and nursed her back to health.

In December 2003 she was given another lease on life when she was relocated (along with two young males) to Samara, and just one year later showed she was right at home by producing a litter of five cubs.

Fourteen months on, another six cubs arrived, providing offspring that have spread throughout southern Africa to boost the populations of this critically endangered species. 

Today there are 12 cheetahs on Samara, but with Sibella proving elusive on our morning drive we head for the hills in search of two males; Mozart and Beethoven. Most of the cheetahs on the reserve are fitted with specialised radio collars, to ensure they don't stray off the reserve.

André hops out of the Land Cruiser and we listen through the crackle and hiss of the telemetry receiver for the tell-tale beep that will point us in the right direction. On the open grassy plateau of Bouwershoek it doesn't take long to find the two boys, out cruising the plains in search of their next meal.

With no lion or elephant to give you a nasty surprise it's safe to track the cheetah on foot at Samara, allowing you to feel the privilege of being a guest in their domain. 

The two males are on the move; their powerful shoulders flexing as they pad silently through the shin-deep grass. They allow us to follow them – at a respectable distance – for a few hundred metres before a pointed look leaves us in no doubt that they would like some privacy now please. Perhaps they've got their eye on a wildebeest.

Back in the Cruiser, the sun is starting to burn off the mist that has shrouded the Plains of Camdeboo. Beyond a herd of wildebeest a few rare and endangered Cape Mountain Zebra gaze at us warily from the hillside.

The day starts to heat up. The glistening snares of Funnelweb spiders lose their droplets of mist collected overnight. Soon the afternoon thunderclouds will start to build once more, and rumble across the Camdeboo with flashes of lightning and torrents of warm rain. The game starts to disappear in search of shade to escape the heat of the day, and we do likewise.

It's a tough choice too; retreat to the shady stoep of the Manor House, or perhaps take a dip in the lap pool under the curious gaze of the Vervet Monkeys. With the cicadas buzzing in the trees it's hard not to doze off to the sound of a Clapper Lark performing its bizarre mating dance in the shimmering Karoo heat.

"Heat, I suppose, is the most positive and formidable thing on the Karoo," writes Eve Palmer, "and the beginning and sometimes the end of many a Karoo story."

For more information visit www.samara.co.za or call +27 (0) 49 891 0558. Karoo Connections offer day-tours in the area and transfers from Port Elizabeth Airport. Visit www.karooconnections.co.za or call +2749 892 3978.

» Originally published in Sawubona Magazine, March 2009

"Bonjour, monsieur," said the man in the airport queue behind me. With a weatheredface and a handful of surfboards stacked on his trolley it was clear he was heading for somewhere sunny and salty. "Parlez vous Française?"

It was a phrase I'd hear more than a few times as I travelled through Reunion, the island that's a close cousin of Mauritius and a four-hour flight east of Johannesburg.

Sadly, I did not speak much French… well, apart from a smattering of long-forgotten school phrases. But telling your hotelier that "the pencil is behind the rabbit" is unlikely to help you find your way to the charred slopes of the Piton de la Fournaise!

The alluring Piton is far and away Reunion's most popular attraction, drawing hundreds of visitors each day despite the precipitous route from the coast.

Is the road really that steep, I hear you ask? Well, climbing a chest-heaving 2300 metres in under 40 kilometres it's like heading out of Durban and reaching Sandton City before you're halfway to Pietermaritzburg. Zut alors!

Once you've gotten used to driving in permanent second gear you'll be mesmerised by the views as the road winds through lush pastures and fields of spring flowers.  Wonderful picnic spots dot the roadside, so bag a baguette et fromage at one of the many boulangeries and pack a picnic for an alfresco lunch en route.

The route heads ever upwards into high altitude scrubland until, just when you're beginning to doubt those volcano road signs, you reach the main attraction: the Rempart de Bellecombe and the edge of the Piton's outer crater. In the distance, the lava-spewing volcanic mount of the Piton de la Fournaise rises from the area known as the Enclos Fouqué.

On 2 April 2007 the Piton's entire magma chamber blew itself into the sky, dropping the crater floor by 300m and sending molten lava cascading down the peak's eastern slopes to live up to its name: 'Peak of the Furnace'. The Piton has since calmed down, but the summit is unstable and has been closed to hikers. However, you can still explore the larger crater as a steep path leads you down the Pas de Bellecombe and into a landscape cracked and buckled like a vinyl record left out in the sun. Darker patches singe the earth where magma oozed and bubbled, solidifying in waves frozen in time.

The Citroen's thermometer had earlier read a mild 19°, but with the sun beating down on the stiff climb back up the Pas de Bellecombe, I was soon working off that extra pain au chocolat from breakfast!

In the distance loomed the Piton Neige; at 3069-metres the tallest peak in the Indian Ocean and the higher, colder cousin of the Piton de la Fournaise. Towering above my next destination, the village of Cilaos, the Piton Neige is just 25-kilometres away as the crow flies, but I had a solid two hours in the car ahead of me.

The road to Cilaos, a lost-in-time village cradled in an ancient volcanic crater, would put legendary road-builder Thomas Bain to shame. With over 500 bends, two tunnels (just wide enough for a single car, mind you) and any number of blind corners it's a white-knuckle, heart-in-the-throat kind of journey. Single lane sections require a combination of caution and blind faith to prevent you from coming head-to-head with a bus, truck or (evidently mad) cyclist.

When you finally make it the village is worth every twist and turn though. Nestled at the bottom of towering cliffs, every step you take in town offers breathtaking views of the sheer slopes of the towering Cirque de Cilaos.

The area is famous for its mountaineering, horse-riding and canyoning, and the steep slopes bring mountain bikers from around the world, says Christopher Payet, one of Reunion's top pedallers and owner of Tof' Bikes in Rue du Pere Boiteau. Payet rents out bikes (€15/day) or can take you on a guided tour of the region's best single-track routes.  At the end of the day you can rest those tired limbs in the thermal baths above town.

Et moi? I'm happier wandering one of the 10 well-marked hiking trails that climb the slopes above town, gazing up at the clouds that cling to the Cirque as if debating whether to stick around and enjoy the view or flit westwards towards the coast.

As for me, time was running short so I fired up the Citroen and hit the N5 back towards St. Louis. Twist, wind, heart attack and one hour of beating the bends brought me back down to the coast. My destination? The beach of Roches Noires at the seaside town of St. Gilles-les-Baines, and a surfer named Bertrand.

Easier said than done. You'll only need a smattering of French phrases to get by on Reunion, but it's a good idea to keep a French phrase book on hand. My directions to Bertrand's 'Ecole de Surf des Roches Noires' went something like "Ah oui, le plage est droite, droite, aprés le cimitiere premier gauche, droite, gauche et deuxième droite. D'accord?"

Um, well, yes. Best throw in a map along with that phrasebook. Luckily it's fairly easy to find your way around, with a ring road circumnavigating the island.

Reunion is not especially famous for its beaches, and it's easy to see why. Few match the powder white stretches of its Indian Ocean neighbours, but what they lack in picture-postcard perfection they make up for with dramatic scenery and plenty to keep you busy, and there are a few worth a visit.

For sheer novelty value a dip at the black-sand Etang-Salé-les-Baines is something not to be missed on your way down from Cilaos or the Piton de le Fournaise. The beach is popular with swimmers and surfers, but watch out for the area's notoriously fickle currents.

Further north, Boucan Canot is the Camps Bay of Reunion; a glamorous strip where the bathing beauties go topless and top-notch hotels overlook one of the island's best strips of sand. This is the place to be if you want to catch some rays and strut your stuff.

There's more of a family feel at the nearby St. Gilles-le-Bain though. Ice-cream vendors line the promenade, beach buckets dangle in shop windows and kids make the most of the safe swimming area. Or they hang 10 with local surf coach Bertrand Piece, who I found at last.

Bertrand's easy-going surf academy makes light work of the eponymous 'black rocks' and he regularly sends swarms of young grommets out into the surf to learn the ropes.

Further down the coast there's surfing of a different sort on the go at St. Leu. This laid-back resort is Reunion's shot at Jeffrey's Bay. There's a beach, sure, but it's the gnashing left-hander that brings tourists to what is one of the island's best surf spots.

Not a surfer? There's safe swimming to the left of 'Le Port', and a number of dive schools offer regular trips from the harbour. The nearby Pointe au Sel is the best reef on Reunion, dropping to 60m and offering fantastic hard corals. From July to October you also – given the lack of regulations – have the chance to get up close and personal with humpback whales migrating south with the currents.

St. Leu is also famous for currents of a different sort, with the hills above town known as one of the best spots in the world for paragliding. Steady thermals ensure paragliders can stay aloft for hours, and the town hosted a leg of the Paragliding World Cup late last year. Now that the pros have left, the skies are clear for tourists to catch a few thermals and admire the view, with companies like Parapente offering daily sightseeing flights.

There are few better places to take in the action above and below you than the deck of the Hotel Blue Margouillat. Perched on a hillside a short way out of town, the hotel offers laid-back island hospitality with a European twist.

Resident Chef Marc Chappot will weave his magic onto your plate each night if you have a few euros to spend, or head into town where you'll find a range of great dining options. L'Auberge du Relais in the Rue General Lambert is an excellent choice. This bare basics spot in the main road through town offers no-frills Creole cuisine. Local 'cari' is the typical flavour of Reunion, and you can put your palate to everything from Duck Cari to Cari Langouste. At just €13 for curry, rice, lentils and a starter salad it's an affordable, authentic taste of the island.

Reunion may not be a cheap destination for South Africans converting many Rands into a handful of euros, but with everything from soaring volcanoes to shimmering sands it's a small price to pay for a slice of joie de vivre in the Indian Ocean.

» Originally published in Shape Magazine, March 2009

I'll never forget the pay-off line from that mid-1990s advert for Je T'aime perfume. In between the soft focus, pouting lips and sexy red dress a husky voice (if memory serves me well) informs us: "Nobody says 'I love you' quite like the French".

For my wife though, nothing says 'I love you' quite like a spa treatment. Whether it's a Balinese massage, avocado-infused body scrub or eye-firming facial I seem to have found the key to matrimonial bliss. Gentlemen, take note; with a spa voucher in hand you can do no wrong!

But what's the fun in sitting in traffic to get to a spa squeezed between the suburbs… to really impress in this month of lurve a country spa escape is the way to go, and we've scouted some of the best Southern Africa has to offer.

Majeka House
From fine cuisine to some of South Africa's best vintages, the Stellenbosch winelands are famous for the finer things in life, and you'll find them in abundance at Majeka House; a new boutique hotel and spa on the outskirts of the 'Eikestad'.

Tucked away in the quiet suburb of Paradyskloof, Majeka House is a stylish winelands getaway that's a good base for getting out and exploring the region.

After a hard day on the estates you can relax with a signature treatment in the intimate Sanctuary Spa, relax in the Jacuzzi or wind down in the sauna or steam room; and then round off your day with an evening of fine dining in the glamorous Baroque-inspired restaurant. What a pleasure. www.majeka.co.za

Klein Genot
If it's pleasure you're after then look no further than Klein Genot. Nestled in the upper reaches of the picturesque Franschhoek valley this delightful estate released its maiden vintages just two years ago and recently threw open the doors to its tasting room and restaurant. The winery is already producing outstanding reds, most notably its Black Swan Reserve blend of Cabernet, while its 'Genot' restaurant is welcoming diners from far and wide.

After all that good living you'll need some pampering to get your body back in shape. All treatments at the spa use high-quality products such as Lilian Terry Aromatherapy oils together with the Dermalogica, OPI and Theravine product ranges.

With gorgeous views over the terraced vineyards of the Franschhoek Valley, Klein Genot is just the spot to caress the stress away. Don't miss the Klein Genot Signature Treatment, which includes a full body exfoliation, body wrap and a 40 minute massage. For a serious detox try the Ocean Wrap or Manual Lymphatic Massage.

Karkloof Spa
When it comes to massage it's hard to beat the traditional Thai massage on offer at Karkloof Spa in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands. With therapists flown in from Asia this is as authentic as it gets, and offers a detox like no other. If you're in need of serious R&R opt for one of the five signature spa 'journeys' through this world-class destination spa and indulge in the range of facilities on offer; from the Moroccan-themed Rassoul Chamber to the Roman bath and sauna/steam rooms.

But there's more to Karkloof than the spa. Set on a 3500-hectare private reserve, you can game-drive through herds of buffalo and giraffe, or mountain bike down breathtaking valleys with a dazzle of zebra for company. You can also stretch your legs with a walk to the 105-metre Karkloof Falls; one of South Africa's tallest waterfalls

At the end of the day, relax on the deck of your luxurious private villa and enjoy a glass of fine wine from the well-stocked cellar before dinner.

Meals are an occasion to be savoured at Karkloof, with both indulgent and healthy options available for each course allowing you to indulge or detox as you see fit. 'What you want, when you want' is the name of the game and the ever-friendly staff ensure that no request is too much trouble. Once you walk through the front door you can leave all your troubles behind and simply relaaaaaax. www.karkloofspa.com

Zau spa
Heading north, the Zau spa in the Cullinan house of JanHarm Vorster, owner of the famous JanHarmsGat se Agterplaas, offers a more personal approach. A short drive from Pretoria and taking only 18 guests at a time, Zau is also an affordable option if you’re looking for wellness on a slim wallet. You won’t find all the bells and whistles here, but you can enjoy treatments like the popular Yin Yang full-body massage and walk away without worrying about your bank balance. www.zauspa.co.za

Ka'ingo
The Zorgvliet Bush Spa at Ka'Ingo Private Reserve & Spa in the Waterberg is a good spot for wellness in the wilderness.  Treatments on offer range from basic facials to specialized body therapies, including a wide variety of massages, body wraps and alternative healing such as Indian head massages and reflexology. Throw in an outside treatment room on an enclosed deck overlooking the reserve and you’ve got heaven on earth. www.kaingo.co.za

David Livingstone Safari Lodge
The Victoria Falls should be on every traveller's to-do list, and late summer is when the 'smoke that thunders' is at its most dramatic. After a day in the spray admiring the Falls or rafting the mighty Zambezi, you'll want somewhere quiet to escape to. Somewhere like the recently-opened David Livingstone Safari Lodge.

A few kilometres upstream from the Falls, the Lodge enjoys a gorgeous stretch of prime Zambezi waterfront, with wonderful river views from many of the 77 rooms. Come sunset, a cruise on the Lady Livingstone is a must as she meanders gently upstream... don't forget to keep an eye out for hippo and elephant!

Back at the Lodge, you can soothe those tired limbs in the intimate Camelot spa.
Offering everything from intensive sports therapies to mud wraps and facials, you'll feel right at home in the richly furnished treatment rooms. Feeling romantic? Book a couples treatment and enjoy a Bali spa ritual for two finished off with a glass of bubbly! www.dlslandspa.com

» Originally published in Indwe magazine; the in-flight mag for SA Express.

There's just a month or two left of summer, so strap on your walking shoes and hit the streets of Cape Town's city centre.

Shop: Pan African Market
Stock up on funky souvenirs for the folks back home at the Pan African Market in Long Street. You'll find art, sculptures and artefacts from across Africa in this three-story treasure trove. Take your time, smile and get ready to bargain. 76 Long Street. www.panafrican.co.za.

Stroll: Company's Gardens
Shew! For a break from the hot summer sun and the storming south-easter take a stroll through the shady Company's Garden, laid out by Jan van Riebeeck in 1652 to provide fresh produce to passing ships of the Dutch East India Company. Grab a bench and watch the world go by or tuck into a toasted sarmie at the shady café.

Stars: Planetarium
Ever wondered what lies beneath Orion's Belt? The daily star shows at the Iziko Planetarium will leave you starry-eyed with wonder. This star-spangled attraction is a great way to explore the skies above, so settle into your comfy seat and let the Milky Way flow above you. South African Museum, Queen Victoria Street. 021 481 3900. Shows take place daily. Adults: R20, Children: R6.

Sip: Church Street
There's no better place to quench your thirst (and appease those tummy rumbles) than the pedestrianised Church Street. Pull in for breakfast at the delightful Café Mozart, or go local at the Nzolo Brand Café.

Stone: St. George's Cathedral
Designed by Sir Herbert Baker and built out of Table Mountain sandstone, St. George's is one of South Africa's most beautiful churches. Wander in (quietly) and gaze at the largest stained-glass window in the country, or come by on Sunday evenings to hear the church bells in full cry. 5 Wale St. 021 424 7360.

» This article was originally published in Mango airline's in-flight magazine, February 2009.

With the rand heading south it might be time to shelve that European sojourn until you can afford a few more euros. If you're looking for a break in a big city, but without the big budget, then Buenos Aires is for you. Brimming with culture, history and beautiful porteños this sprawling metropolis of 13 million people offers everything from ornate opera houses and fine dining to rabid football fans.

The entire city covers over 1400km², but it's the 47 barrios of the 'Capital Federal' that'll keep you entranced. Take a turn through the obligatory tango show and fill up at an 'asado', but don't think that a hunk of beef and sultry dancers are all that BA has to offer. Take a turn off the tango track and discover all that the 'Paris of the South' has to offer…

Why did the chicken…
They like to do things big in Buenos Aires. Big steaks, big buildings and - it seems - big roads, with BA boasting what is said to be the widest boulevard in the world.
Avenida 9 de Julio, celebrating Argentina's independence in 1816, throws 12 lanes of traffic in the path of unsuspecting pedestrians! Luckily you can have a break in the middle and gaze up at the magnificent 'obelisco' — a 67-metre tall granite obelisk – so take your time and wait for the little green man.

Despite losing some of their lustre, the grand avenues of Buenos Aires are destinations in themselves. Browse the bookshops of Avenida Corrientes, join the throngs of tourists in the pedestrian district along Avenidas Lavalle and Florida, or stop in at the famous ice-cream parlours and coffee shops of Avenida de Mayo.

Join a protest
Avenide de Mayo will (unsurprisingly, I suppose) lead you slap bang into the middle of Plaza de Mayo and, if you're there on a Thursday afternoon, yet another protest march. Argentines love to protest, and to get a taste of life at the picket line all you need to do is head for the Plaza at 3.30pm when mothers of the thousands who were abducted and killed — dubbed ‘the disappeared’ — by the security police in the turbulent '70s protest at the lack of information on the fate of their loved ones.

Keep your eye on the ball
Speaking of loved ones, football comes a close second to Catholicism as the national religion and you shouldn’t leave the city without experiencing a local football match.
The rough 'n jumble harbourfront suburb of La Boca is best-known for its colourful array of houses and tacky tourist shops, but it's also home to one of the planet's most famous football teams.
Boca Juniors is where football legend Diego Maradona cut his teeth and games at their home ground La Bombonera are a mixture of unbridled fury and passionate fervour. Support the opposition at your peril!
Tickets start from $80 (R250) or you can pay about $250 (R780) to go with a tour operator, which will include transfers and a guide.

Get theatrical
From the theatre of dreams to theatres of a different sort, the city's Teatro Colon has hosted everyone from Maria Callas to Rudolf Nureyev, and is the first stop for cultured travellers. Celebrating its centenary this year, the ornate theatre is said to have some of the best acoustics in the world.

Unfortunately the renovations which began in 2006 are two years behind schedule, and the theatre will only reopen for performances and the popular guided tours in 2010. Until then you'll have to make do with admiring the ornate French Renaissance exterior.

Tango in San Telmo
Dancing on stage might be in short supply, but this is the city that gave birth to the tango! All you need to trip the light fantastic is to head for the cobbled streets of San Telmo and find yourself a traditional milonga dance-club where the beautiful people of BA spin the night away.

Start the night with dinner and drinks at the revitalised Puerto Madero waterfront and you'll be set for the night… but don't forget that Argentines don't even think of going out for dinner before 10.30pm or you'll be dining alone.

Hang with the dead
If you need to recover the next morning, take a slow wander through the well-heeled barrio of Recoleta. Apart from carpeted pavements and designer boutiques this upmarket suburb is also home to the Recoleta Cemetery, one of the world's most famous graveyards and the final resting place of Argentine heroine Eva Perón.

The gardens outside are also the perfect place for spotting the famous Buenos Aires dog walkers exercising a dozen large mutts at a time, while just around the corner from the cemetery 'Buenos Aires By Design' offers über-chic interiors from some of Argentina’s top designers.

» This article was originally published in Out There Travel, December 2008.