I'm pretty sure it was the motion-sickness tablets. But then again it may have been that bottle (was it one, or three?) of the local Bintang beer.
It's a simple recipe really. Mix together. Shake well on the deck of a heaving ferry as it lumbers across the Wallace Line that separates the Pacific and Indian Oceans, along with the islands of Bali and Lombok, and stew for five hours.
Whichever it was, I could've sworn the clouds hovering over Gili Trawangan resembled a dragon snarling at the hedonism that's made the island famous. The largest of the three Gili islands – along with Meno and Air – off the coast of Lombok is famous for its fire-lit beach parties, attracting backpackers and students tired of the crowds at Thailand's Koh Pha Ngan.
But it wasn't the party-heavy Gili Trawangan we were headed for, but the quieter Gili Air another kilometre to the east.
It had all started five hours earlier. One taxi, two buses and a rickety tender boat had delivered us to the Perama ferry in the surprisingly picturesque harbour of Padangbai, on the east coast of Bali. Just R220 for the 'three-hour' voyage to the tropical paradise of the Gili Islands… there was no need to bother with the fast boat that was three-times the price.
As so often happens in the tropics, three hours became four which rolled into five. African time has a strong competitor in Asia, it would appear. All of a sudden the pricey fast boat wasn't looking so exorbitant after all.
It was too late by that stage, and the motley crew of backpackers and gap-year-travellers sprawled on the ferry's deck were – like us – in it for the long-haul. It wasn't all bad though.
With flying fish and dolphins for company, and a meal of tempe (delicious soy-bean cakes similar to tofu) and noodles to keep us going we were almost starting to enjoy the journey. At least the crew hadn't fired up the karaoke machine. As our afternoon ETA sunk below the horizon, Bali's Mount Agung showed its face, soaring above the sun-tinged clouds that swathed the island like a monk's saffron robes.
As Agung slept and darkness fell, the ferry rumbled to a halt somewhere between Lombok and the deep blue sea. Off in the distance were a handful of twinkling lights, one of them belonging to our guesthouse and a bar filled with cold Bintang. The sound of a droning mosquito merged with the lights and began a dance, shimmering from left to right. The cyclizine again, I wondered?
Out of the darkness buzzed a fishing boat, big enough for just a handful of backpackers with luggage, throwing cascades of glowing phosphorescence off the bow as it surged through the waves. Bags were thrown on board and a short algae-lit boat ride later landed us on the sands of Gili Air like two pieces of jetsam, bells ringing in our ears.
The bells, however, belonged to Tina. A short, stocky lady who'd been on the island for five years, hers was the never-ending job of hauling tourists from the beach to guesthouses across the island. Adu, our new-found friend, loaded our bags onto his horse-drawn cart and with a flick of the reins set Tina trotting off down the dark island pathways to the doorstep of Coconut Cottages (www.coconuts-giliair.com), our island-style escape for the next week.
The sunrise brought with it our first view of Gili Air, named for the fresh-water spring which has made the island a prosperous community boasting two schools and a mosque.
Accommodation on the island ranges from simple beach huts to… well, more upmarket beach huts. Coconut Cottages is, like most of the other guesthouses, a laid-back sort of place where throwing a shirt over your board-shorts counts as dressing for dinner. Outdoor showers, walls made of the local alang-alang grass and a hammock swaying on the porch drive home the Robinson Crusoe feel of a place where nothing happens terribly quickly.
This is just as well, because there's no reason to rush around these palm-lined atolls. The horse-drawn carts, called cidomos, are the only transport on Gili Air. No motorbikes, no buses, no cars. Apart from padding feet and the occasional whirr of a bicycle wheel, Tina's clippety-clop and jingling bells are about the fastest thing you'll find on the island. And if you don't want to sound like Santa Claus in the tropics the island is small enough to walk around in under an hour.
After a breakfast of banana pancakes and sturdy Balinese coffee, your days can be half-full or half-empty. It's entirely up to you. We spent much of our time relaxing in the shade of alang-alang gazebos spread out along the eastern shore of the island, with an occasional burst of activity just so the islanders didn't think we'd passed on; one hand on a beer, the other on a book.
In between lengthy periods of sloth, the crystal clear waters just beg to be explored. At a toasty 27 degrees there are no goose-bumps, although the occasional jellyfish did provide an unwelcome reminder that this is the tropics, where things like to sting and bite.
Each of the three Gilis is surrounded by a fringing coral reef, ensuring calm water at the beach and great snorkelling further out. Years of dynamite fishing have done the coral no favours, but fishermen realised the error of their ways years ago and the reef is slowly on the mend.
Shallow reefs extend 50-metres out from the beach around all three islands, but the snorkelling is usually best off the protected east coast where it's a short swim to the drop-off. As the water gets deeper the coral becomes more impressive, with fantastic table and stag horn formations to admire.
The ominous deep-blue of the drop-off sends a tingle of fear down your spine, but take a deep breath, pluck up some courage and peek over the edge to stare to the bottom, twenty-odd metres below. This is the best spot for spying denizens of the deep and you could see anything from barracuda to black-tipped reef sharks. Titan triggerfish, Spotted boxfish and Snapper are all regulars on the reef, and turtles are common passers-by.
In fact the Gili islands are famous for their turtles, and it's in no small measure thanks to two enterprising locals. Since 2001 Wayan and Bolong's turtle sanctuary on Gili Meno has nurtured hundreds of turtles each year, ensuring that divers and snorkellers get to enjoy the sight of Loggerhead and Green Sea turtles flapping gracefully alongside.
The pair retrieves the eggs from nesting sites around the islands after they have been laid and hatch them in the sand at their sanctuary, keeping them safe from predators – both animal and human. Once the turtles hatch they are kept in make-shift tanks – simple bathtubs and paddle-pools – until they are eight months old, when they are released into the sea with a greatly improved chance of survival.
There's an island-hopping service that runs twice a day between Gili Trawangan, Meno and Air, so you can spend the morning with the turtles on Meno, have lunch with the crowds on Trawangan and make it back to Air in time for a dinner at one of the seafood barbecue restaurants.
And what a way to end off a day in paradise: waves lapping in the darkness, cold Bintang (and significant other, hopefully) by your side and prawns on the barbecue. You can have a seafood feast for under R50 here, with fried rice and dessert thrown in for free.
As the scent of grilling seafood wafts towards your table all there is to do is kick back, wiggle your toes in the sand and soak up the inky black skies as the phosphorescence cascades off a small boat heading out into the channel, bringing more tourists to the islands.
As my platter piled high with King Prawns arrived, it struck me that the Gilis could just as easily be called the Goldilocks Islands. At the heart of all three there's textbook tropical paradise on offer, but while one may be too busy and one a little quiet, there is bound to be one that's just right for you.
» Originally published in The Weekender Travel & Food; October 2008 |
I don't like Salzburg. There, I said it. While Europhiles gasp in horror and hold out their Mozart concertos as a talisman against the philistine, let me explain.
The Austrians love to celebrate the fact that in 1756 in a nondescript yellow house at 9 Getreidegasse the city gave birth to a legend; Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Now, the mere fact that Salzburg's medieval air was the first to enter his lungs hardly destined him for greatness, now did it? Perhaps we should apply that theory a little further…
Unsurprisingly, they're not quite as vocal about another famous Austrian born not far away in the village of Braunau. That would be one Adolf Hitler, of course. Luckily he crossed the river Inn and headed over to Germany not long after, so the Austrians could blame his evil deeds on their northern neighbours.
But as they say, don't mention the war, so on we bussed into Salzburg; a city said to be impossibly beautiful where the hills, almost literally, are alive with the sound of music.
To my mind though, the hills are alive with the sound of tourist chatter and ringing tills.
As we were not-so-subtly informed on our way into town: Salzburg is a city where tourists arrive with Julie Andrews in their eyes and Euros in their pockets to provide the locals with a steady flow of tourist sheep to fleece, thank you very much. Please continue to do the same.
The city has no soul, that's all there is to it. Fine baroque architecture, yes. A looming castle perched on the hill with its shoulders hunched against the weather, tick. Soaring Alps as the backdrop, absolutely. But local culture to soak up? Not a chance.
In my short time there I found no stream of local life to push out into, no eddy of the everyday to relax in for awhile. The fine folk who voted it a World Heritage Site would likely disagree with me, but I'm sure if you magically removed the tourists from the streets of Salzburg the tumbleweeds would appear within minutes.
Perhaps it's different when the roof of the 17th century Salzburg Cathedral is decked with snow and twinkly lights line the bars where the smell of gluhwein drifts out across the cobbled squares. But even then I'm willing bet it all comes as part of a package.
"Right then, here's your pre-paid drink. You have precisely 18 minutes to visit the gift shop and soak up this authentic Salzburg experience before the bus leaves for the animatronic Mozart show."
OK, so they don't really have a robotic Mozart, but they might as well build one. While they're at it, how about a few mechanised Salzburgians so that poor defenceless Austrians don't have to be subjected to wandering hordes of American pensioners following the waving umbrella/flower/flag at the front of their herd.
Mozart aside, Salzburg is perhaps most famous as the home of the Von Trapps, the family that gave us the most pervasive musical of all time. But it's not just the hills around Salzburg that are alive with the sound of music. The gift shops, tour guides and restaurants are all cashing in.
Tourists on buses and guides on the take
Cheap Chinese tat from a shop on a lake
A naff souvenir all tied up with strings
These are a few of my favourite things
Even God is getting in on the act. While the extravagant Mondsee Basilica is stunning in its own right, all it's famous for nowadays is as the setting for the wedding scene in the Hollywood movie.
But hang on, that's not where the wedding really took place, I hear you say?
Nope… in Salzburg, as with Hollywood, appearances come first and the wedding scene was moved to Mondsee because the real basilica (at Nonnberg Abbey) was too small to film in. Authenticity be damned, if the punters want it we'll provide it. And if we have extra boxes of Mozart chocolate and fake violin-shaped letter-openers on offer we'll convince them they want those too.
No, I've had my fill of this Austrian town. So long Salzburg, and thanks for all the kitsch.
» Originally published in The Weekender Travel & Food Journal; 6 December 2008
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Capetonians love their mountain! Here's how you can make the most of the Table Mountain National Park.
Pack a picnic
Silvermine (021 780 9002, www.sanparks.org) is an idyllic spot to spend a lazy summer's day. Take a walk on one of the marked trails or just chill out at the reservoir where you'll find braai spots and a wheelchair-friendly boardwalk. Remember that no swimming is allowed though!
Hug a tree
Few people know that the Tokai Arboretum (Tokai Road, 021 712 7471) is a National Monument dating back to 1886. There are over 1500 trees from hundreds of species in the forest, all of which are plotted on a map at the entrance. Visit on a Saturday morning and stock up at the fresh produce market (9am-1pm, 082 823 4121) next door.
Step out in the shade
Join the locals making the most of the shady paths of Newlands Forest. Park at the Forest Station (021 689 7438, www.sanparks.org) on Union Avenue where there's a good map of the area. Wondering about those two helicopters? They are stationed in Newlands during the hot summer months and are used to fight fires across the Peninsula.
Reach the top
Whether you take the Cableway (www.tablemountain.net , R145 per adult) or tackle Platteklip Gorge, make sure you stand on top! The views are outstanding and you'll get to laugh at the antics of the resident dassies, or rock hyrax.
Stay safe!
It may look like a summer's day, but conditions on the mountain can change in minutes! If you're going exploring always carry warm clothing and water, and wear proper walking shoes. There's safety in numbers, so walk in a group of at least three people. If you run into trouble call the Table Mountain National Park emergency number on 021 957 4700.
» Originally published in Mango Juice, the in-flight magazine of South African low-cost carrier Mango Airlines. |
Sun 07 Dec 2008 |
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Bye-bye Working Holiday... |
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The British High Commission formally abolished the popular Working Holidaymaker visa on 27 November, and South Africa is so far not a participating country in its replacement; the Youth Mobility Scheme.
"We made the South African government aware of the introduction of the new scheme some time ago but they have not, as yet, expressed an interest in participating," says Apsara McNaught, spokesperson for the British High Commission.
"In order to become a participating country, South Africa would be required to meet certain criteria, including the establishment of a reciprocal scheme for young British nationals to come here."
The introduction of the Youth Mobility Scheme comes as part of the United Kingdom's biggest shake-up in immigration policy for 45 years. The new visa regime comprises five tiers covering various skill levels, each with different qualifying criteria. It is modelled on the points-based system used by Australia.
Despite nearly 7000 Working Holidaymaker visas being granted to South Africans in 2007, the youth travel industry sees the abolition of the visa as a remarkable opportunity.
"We're in for an incredibly exciting time," says Liezl Gericke, Commercial Manager for STA Travel South Africa. "The UK has dominated the gap-year market for many years now, and this gives us an incredible opportunity to focus on the many alternatives out there.
Shannon Oddie, marketing manager for Student Flights, agrees: "The youth of South Africa are resilient and will continue to travel and broaden their horizons on an international level. The way in which they travel and the destinations they choose to travel to may change in the coming years, but they will certainly not stay at home because of a visa restriction in one country."
"As long as we as youth travel providers make sure we have options available what we're going to see is a shift and not a decline," says Ms Gericke.
Ms Oddie also points out that "we cannot discount the fact that many of our clients do travel on foreign passports which allows them to travel to and work in various countries without the visa restrictions of their home country."
While the retail trade looks for other opportunities, British Airways says it is confident the new visa regime will not have an impact on the airline.
"Younger people typically look for the lowest fares rather than being loyal to a particular carrier and may choose to fly via a third destination in order to save some money," says spokesperson Stephen Forbes. "The youth market is not one we typically court and as such we don't expect the change to have a significant effect."
Ms Oddie also notes that "the number of long-term flights purchased to the UK has not shown an overall decrease" since the High Commission announced the abolition of the Working Holiday visa.
For clients with their heart set on working in the UK, Stephen Atkinson, immigration expert at migration group 1st Contact, says that there are still other options for employment visas still available to South Africans. The Tier 1 visa presents an opportunity for skilled, qualified migrants, while the Ancestry visa can be used for those with a grandparent born in the UK. Lastly, Partner/Spousal visas are an option for South Africans whose spouses or partners have UK or EU citizenship.
» Originally published in Travel Industry Review, December 2008 |
I was 23 years old when I first met my grandmother Liisi. An elfin face with smiling eyes peering around the door of her neatly trimmed house in a small coastal village in Essex, England. The years were etched deeply on her cheeks, but the twinkle never left those mischievous eyes as she told us – all the while fussing over the plates of food she was famous for – in her lilting Scandinavian accent of her youth in Finland, a country more famous for Nokia and Marimekko than its rich history and outstanding beauty.
I said my last goodbyes to Liisi in Helsinki's Hietaniemi cemetery, planting smiling daisies at her Tuomainen family gravestone on a glorious mid-summer's morning. After half a century in England she had passed away peacefully and her ashes had been brought to rest in the country she loved.
She'd been born in Ylämaa, a small trading town in eastern Finland, but moved to the capital as a young woman. Of all the tales she told, the one that sticks in my mind is of her walking across the frozen sea to work on one of the hundreds of islands that make up the archipelago surrounding the Finnish capital.
The seas are clear on our warm summer day though. Having said our goodbyes at the cemetery we wander down to the Helsinki harbour-front where the famous fleet of sturdy ice-breakers are safely tethered to their summer moorings. Gone are the sub-zero temperatures and snowy streets; the clear Finnish air is filled with the soft evening light of long summer days on the doorstep of the Arctic Circle. It's a time when the capital springs to life as Finns come out to play; pavement cafes are packed with trendy office workers and the Gulf of Finland teems with sailing boats.
It's no surprise that Finns love the water. With over 300 000 kilometres of coastline there is plenty of space for their 750 000 boats! Frozen commuting aside, the sea has long played an important role in the history of Helsinki and a boat trip around the islands is a great way to get a feel for the city and soak up the fantastic views of the Helsinki skyline.
Sightseeing trips leave from the Marinkasernskajen pier at the bottom of Esplanade Park, a green lung in the heart of the city, and take anywhere from a few hours to an entire day to meander through the maze of islands where wealthy Finns own holiday cottages, each with a sauna on the jetty and steps down to the Baltic for a bracing dip.
Your first stop will be the island fortress of Suomenlinna; literally the "Fortress of Finland". This UNESCO World Heritage Site stretches across six small islands and, due to its strategic location in the Gulf of Finland, has seen fierce battles throughout its 250-year history. Although cannons still guard the fortified ramparts, and a few naval areas are off-limits to tourists, the fortress was opened up to the public in the mid-70s and has since become a popular destination for Finns and tourists to walk and picnic. The fortress is one of Helsinki’s main attractions and, apart from sight-seeing tours, is also easy to access on one of the commuter ferries that leave every half hour from the market square.
Built in 1748 when Finland was ruled by Sweden, Suomenlinna is just one reminder that for centuries Finland was a political football squabbled over by Russia and Sweden, and even today the Finns are not especially fond of their eastern neighbours. Yet contrary to what you'd expect, while the Swedes left behind an impenetrable sea fortress the Russian legacy is both sacred and stunning.
The Uspenski Cathedral; Finland's most important Russian Orthodox Church and the largest in Western Europe, is a magnificent site. Placed regally on a hill overlooking the harbour, the green and gold onion domes glinting in the sun are a powerful reminder of the sway that Mother Russia once held over the Finns.
Not as ornate, but equally impressive, is the striking Lutheran Church that dominates the Senate Square a few steps away. Compared to the elaborate Uspenski Cathedral the stark white interior of the church is a breathtaking contrast that is striking in its simplicity. The expansive Square is also where locals come to see in the New Year in the depths of winter, but in the long summer days the Senate steps are simply a great place to marvel at the city skyline.
"But where are the forests?" I hear you ask. "Tell me about lakes and Lapps, forests and fjords!"
Well, there isn't much to tell I'm afraid. With its coiffed streets and stylish architecture Helsinki is a world away from the dank forests and dark lakes further north. Your best bet, if you don't have time to venture further afield, is to head for Seurasaari.
Just 20-minutes from the city centre, Seurasaari is an open-air museum celebrating the rural culture of Finland. The main attraction is the number of historic wooden houses dismantled from across the country and reconstructed here as a living museum, but the island is also simply a wonderful break from the city streets. Paths meander through the forest, squirrels harass you for nuts and swans paddle elegantly through the waters of the Gulf of Finland. It's the perfect place to pack a picnic and spend the day out of the city.
Speaking of food, eating and drinking in the Euro-zone is likely to give your credit card palpitations and Finland is among the worst culprits. If you can stomach the high prices though, the city is your culinary oyster. Save those cents and fork out for Reindeer in Elderberry sauce washed down with berry vodka at the wood-panelled 'Lappi', or splash out on the R900 Lappish game selection, which includes grilled Elk fillet, fried Deer sausage and roast Reindeer.
If you're on a budget, or looking for Seurasaari picnic supplies, the harbour-front kauppatori is home to a vibrant marketplace in the summer. Pocket a punnet of fresh cherries, bag a bread from the nearby indoor market, grab some smoked herrings off the fishermen's boats and you'll have a feast for under R100. For something warm, local stalls sell generous plates of vendace (similar to British whitebait) and chips for around €10
It's worth saving a few euros too, as the Fazer shop in Kluuvikatu is one place you can’t miss. This Helsinki institution been in the same spot since 1891, and has become the capital's most famous coffee shop. The best cake and coffee in town shouldn’t set you back more than about €5, and the experience of living the Helsinki café life is a real highlight. No wonder Liisi often stopped off there to warm up after her walk across the icy sea.
With its high style and haute cuisine, Helsinki is one of Europe’s undiscovered gems. Brimming with history and combining cutting-edge culture with age-old customs, the Finnish capital is rapidly becoming one of the hottest destinations in Scandinavia. Start saving now…
» Originally published in The Weekender Travel & Food, 16 November 2008. |
"Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats."
Kenneth Grahame may have written 'The Wind in the Willows' nearly a century ago, but his touching tale of Toad, Mole and Rat taking to the water in search of adventure and good times is as inspiring today as it was back then.
But the sailors taking to the waters of Table Bay this December to compete in two of South Africa's premier yachting regattas are going to be doing more than simply messing about in their boats.
From the fun-filled CROCS Summer Regatta in and around Table Bay to a downwind dash across the South Atlantic Ocean, there is bound to be high adventure on the high seas in Cape Town this summer.
The Cape of Good Hope has a rich nautical history, dating back to 1652 when Jan van Riebeeck established a refreshment station here for passing ships of the Dutch East India Company. In those early days the sailors could rest, restock and take shelter from the howling Southeaster – nowadays affectionately known as 'The Cape Doctor' - which whips across the Cape Flats in summer and turns Table Bay into a sea of white-caps.
And in 350 years not much has changed: the strong seasonal winds still put sailors to the test, and the welcome on dry land is as warm as it was back then. No wonder the city is also known as the Tavern of the Seas!
"Sail hard, Party hard." That's what the CROCS Summer Regatta is all about, says Ron Keytel, Sailing Officer at Royal Cape Yacht Club. Based on the Caribbean's popular Antigua Week, the CROCS Summer Regatta will showcase the magnificent sailing on offer in and around Table Bay.
Unlike the round-the-buoys sailing of the famous Lipton Cup "the emphasis is on longer races to actual places," says Keytel. One day will see the fleet racing towards the sparkling waters and glistening beaches of Clifton (covered, as usual, with glistening sun-tanners), while other courses will be out towards Robben Island, where former president Nelson Mandela spent 18 years behind bars, or ending in the popular V&A Waterfront.
Wherever the yachts are headed, the magnificent skyline of Table Mountain will be the backdrop to four days of competitive yachting in the chilly waters of Table Bay.
Rob Meek, the Organising Chairman, says that up to 70 boats are expected to enter the regatta, making for exciting racing.
"Between our local and overseas yachts we have a range of entries from racing boats to more sedate cruisers, but the regatta is really about exploring the corners of Table Bay.
"However, last year we arrived at Clifton in the pouring rain to find the beach completely deserted. Even our welcoming party of bikini girls had left, so this year we're hoping for warmer weather!"
While the (hopefully) sunny skies and short courses of the CROCS Summer Regatta will make for enjoyable day-racing, the hardened yachties on the quaysides of Cape Town are also gearing up for one of the world's most famous blue-water regattas: The Governor's Cup.
"The Governor's Cup is an exciting 1700-mile summer ocean race from Cape Town to James Bay on St. Helena Island," says Andrew McKenzie, Vice Chairman of the False Bay Yacht Club, which organises the race. "Entrants typically range from fast racing boats with experienced crews to cruising boats manned by small families."
Famous for its stunning sub-tropical landscapes and as the final resting place of Napoleon Bonaparte, St. Helena is a paradise in the South Atlantic only accessible by sea. The supply ship RMS St. Helena sails from Cape Town to the island roughly every four weeks, and accompanies the fleet to the island, but if you haven't booked a berth then a yacht is your only ticket to the island of Saints!
Held every two years since 1996 The Governor's Cup isn't always plain-sailing though.
In 2006 the fleet was hit by a fierce cold front on the first night out of Cape Town. "Cold, wet and seasick" is how many of the crew described themselves, says McKenzie. Which brings to mind the sailors' adage: "For the first hour that you're seasick you feel like you're going to die. After that you're worried you won't!"
So what's the attraction in spending 10 days at sea getting damp and delirious, you might ask?
While the cut-glass trophy donated by the Governor of St. Helena in 1996 is incentive enough, Petr Muzik, who won the Cruising class on his yacht 'Shoestring' in 2004, reckons that the race is quite simply a life-changing event.
"St Helena will blow you away with its charm and hospitality. The sail there is idyllic in the South East Trades and the 1650-odd miles will bring back happy memories for years to come."
Warm island hospitality is just one of the attractions of sailing in The Governor's Cup.
In a previous race the organisers were alarmed when one yacht veered a long way off the conventional course to the island. Was it storms or sickness that had pushed the yacht out into the Atlantic? No, it turned out that the crew were all keen anglers and wanted to try their luck on the Vema Seamount in the South Atlantic!
From day-sailors to salty sea dogs, it's not hard to see the attraction of "messing about in boats", but as one weathered sailor on the quayside of False Bay Yacht Club remarked recently: "A yacht race is really just an excuse to go sailing".
True words indeed, and the Governor's Cup and CROCS Summer Regatta are as good an excuse as any to enjoy a few days (or weeks!) on the water this summer.
The Governor's Cup starts in Table Bay at 2pm on 29 December. Visit www.thegovernorscuponline.com to find out more.
The CROCS Summer Regatta takes place from 13-16 December in Table Bay. Visit the website of the Royal Cape Yacht Club at www.rcyc.co.za
» This article was originally published in Sawubona , the in-flight magazine of South African Airways.
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With arms as strong as his demeanour is gentle, and the flexibility of Angelina Jolie on a good Tomb Raider day, Kong is perhaps the best Thai masseuse west of Chiang Mai, his hometown in northern Thailand.