I’m not a city person. Give me soaring snow-capped peaks rather than cityscapes any day of the week. But Hong Kong… aah, that’s a different story altogether. This is not just any city. It’s the most exciting city on the planet.

Sure, some might argue that New York deserves that moniker, but where else can you worship a Buddha before a dim sum breakfast, deal in global equities mid-morning before grabbing McDonalds for lunch, enjoy an English high-tea at one of the world’s finest hotels and then feast on 100-year-old eggs, bird’s nest soup and fried goose tongue for dinner? You want a taste of East meets West? You can’t beat Hong Kong.

Just one problem though… it’s not cheap. If you’ve got cash to burn then China’s ‘fragrant harbour’ is your own private playground, but on a budget you need to get a little clever about how you spend your dollars. Here’s where to start…

No man is an island

Although Hong Kong is made up of dozens of islands, the best place to start is on the mainland on the Kowloon peninsula. This is the throbbing heart of Hong Kong where you’ll find the famous Nathan Road, a wide range of accommodation (whatever you do, avoid the infamous Chungking Mansions if you can) and great shopping. It’s not as glitzy as Hong Kong Island (more on that later), but you couldn’t ask for a better taste of nitty gritty Hong Kong.

Most tourists head for Tsim Sha Tsui at the southern end of Nathan Road. To get your bearings, take a stroll along the Avenue of Stars - Hong Kong’s answer to Hollywood Boulevard - for a gander over the famous Victoria Harbour and to pose with the statue of local hero Bruce Lee. Karate poses are optional.

Tsim Sha Tsui is also where you’ll find some of the best hotels in Hong Kong. The Peninsula is Hong Kong’s Mount Nelson, and offers unmatchable five-star luxury… at a price of course. If nothing else, find an excuse to head to the top-floor Felix bar for the ultimate men’s loo with a view. If it’s views you’re after, the Sheraton Hong Kong across Nathan Road is the place to be. Their Sky Lounge offers one of the best views in town of the nightly (at 8pm) 'Sound and Light Spectacular', the largest permanent laser and light show on earth. www.starwoodhotels.com/sheraton/hongkong & http://hongkong.peninsula.com

Hit the steamy streets

Drag yourself away from the air-conditioning though and let the steamy sounds and smells of Nathan Road envelope you as you dodge tourists, touts and traders for a stroll north towards the famous Temple Street market.

It’s a vibrant area of stalls, restaurants and street performers where the cries of “Hello Missy Sir! Handbag, copy watch?” makes it pretty clear that this is where you come to shop on a budget. As with markets everywhere, sharp bargaining skills and feigning disinterest in that fake-Fendi will help you knock at least 30 percent off the price.

For reliable electronics, avoid the bright lights of Nathan Road and shop with the locals at the Mong Kok computer centre in Tung Choi Street. More into window shopping? Make sure you take a turn through the fascinating Goldfish, Flower and Yuen Po Bird market. For something a little more spiritual, grab a taxi and head for the stunning Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple. Surrounded by high-rise apartments, the scene of chic city-slickers carrying whole roast pigs to offer is quite a sight. The temple is also famous for its fortune tellers, who will explain your future in an ever-so-slightly mysterious parable.

What should definitely be in your future is to head south of Victoria Harbour to Hong Kong Island.

The clean, fast and efficient Mass Transit Railway (buy a pre-paid Oyster card when you arrive for easy access) will zip you from Kowloon across to the Island in just a few minutes, but why rail, when you can sail?

Do pay the ferryman

OK, so the Star Ferry doesn’t really sail, but for great views of Victoria Harbour it’s a few dollars well spent. Step off the Star Ferry and you can almost feel the money oozing out of the high-rise towers on Hong Kong Island. The suburbs of Central and Wan Chai are the financial hub of Hong Kong - home to the likes of HSBC and Bank of America - so it’s the place to come if you want to hang with expat bankers and Hong Kong’s nouveau riche. Despite the tacky Irish pubs aimed at expat bankers, the area is also home to some of the city’s top restaurants. www.mtr.com.hk & www.starferry.com.hk

You’ll need to book a few days in advance to get a table at Yung Kee (32-40 Wellington Street, Central), which offers authentic Cantonese cuisine. Roast goose with plum sauce has been their signature dish since opening 65 years ago, attracting everyone from government high-fliers to local gourmands. Save up your dollars and have at least one meal here.

For something a little more low-key, Shui Hu Ju (68 Peel Street, Central) is a cosy little place at the top of the steep streets of Central. It’s so tucked away that you won’t find many tourists here… there isn’t even a sign outside, so just look out for the Chinese entrance with two red lanterns outside. Feeling brave? Order the explosive Deep Fried Chicken with Sichuan Chilis. Watch out for the home-made litchi wine though, or you could find it a struggle to make your way down the steep streets to the glitzy Lan Kwai Fong nightclub district. http://www.yungkee.com.hk & http://www.aqua.com.hk

After dinner, a visit to the top of Victoria Peak (think Rio’s Sugarloaf in Asia) is obligatory. The Peak Tram’s slow climb up the steep Peak is thrilling enough, but on top you’ll be rewarded (provided that the weather is clear) with one of the most breathtaking cityscapes on the planet. www.thepeak.com.hk

Not a city-slicker?

Surprisingly, a visit to Hong Kong doesn’t have to be all about the city. If you feel the need for some greenery, grab a taxi (or a bus, but taxis aren’t too expensive) and head to the small resort town of Stanley in the south of Hong Kong Island. There’s a great market here for clothes and souvenirs, and the whole place has the feel of a seaside holiday town far from the madding crowds. Fancy a swim? Stop off at the stunning Repulse Bay along the way, but make sure you stick to the areas protected by bathing nets - the South China Sea is filled with sharks who wouldn’t mind a nibble.

Neighbouring Lantau Island is also worth exploring for a day. Apart from Disneyland Hong Kong, the main attraction is the world's largest outdoor seated Buddha, towering 26-metres above the hillside. It's a 268-step climb from the peaceful temples below, but well worth the effort to see this Hong Kong icon up close. For more great views, avoid the 54 minute bus ride from the MTR to Pol Linm and take the Ngong Ping 360 cableway instead. Pricey, but worth it. www.np360.com.hk

This article originally appeared in the Out There Travel Guide.

....If I was a flower growing wild and free, all I'd want is you to be is my sweet honey-bee,sings Barry Louis Polisar in "All I Want Is You", the theme tune to the cult-movie 'Juno'.

It's also not a bad track to kick off a spring-flower road-trip. With the sun shining and the birds a' singin', spring is the time to hit the N7 north of Cape Town to marvel at what all that winter rain has given rise to.

The annual explosion of spring flowers has become one of South Africa’s most popular natural events, drawing tourists from across the globe to marvel at the swathes of colour that carpet the Western and Northern Cape each year.

After two years of bumper displays – the best in living memory according to more than one farmer I met – good winter rains this year mean that the scene is set for another spectacular splash of spring flowers.

You can find flowers on a day-trip from Cape Town, but to see the hillsides of colour that the postcards are made of you’ll need to head further north. Namaqualand is without doubt the Shangri-La of spring flowers, but if you’re short of time you can do just as well a few hours from the Mother City.

Heading out of Cape Town on the N7 you’ll start to see the tell-tale daisies along the roadside as far south as Citrusdal, with splashes of orange and white amongst the citrus orchards hinting at what’s in store.

Fifty-odd kilometres further north brings you to Clanwilliam; one of South Africa’s oldest towns and a popular spot to spend the night if you’re taking things easy. The family-owned Strassberger Hotel is the most famous guesthouse in town, offering comfortable rooms and warm country hospitality. While you’re in town, make sure you pay a visit to the Ramskop Nature Reserve, which includes the Clanwilliam Wildflower Garden, on the eastern shore of the dam. The garden contains dozens of species of indigenous plants, and in flower season you can buy bulbs and seeds from the tea room.

…The dry, desolate Knersvlakte …

Clanwilliam is the place to leave the N7 if you want to explore the northern reaches of the rugged Cederberg mountain range. It's here that you'll find the Biedouw Valley, about 55kms north-east of town. This fertile valley between the Biedouw and Tra-Tra Mountains is famous for its veld flowers and – because it’s a little off the tourist trail – is less popular than other flower areas, so you can have it all to your bloomin’ self. If you've saved your pennies and want to spoil yourself, the Bushmanskloof Wilderness Reserve offers five-star flower-viewing in five-star luxury.

Back on the N7; keep heading north from Clanwilliam until you hit Vanrhynsdorp. This small 'dorpie' is known as the 'gateway to Namaqualand', but also offers spectacular spring flowers of its own.

The dry and hostile Knersvlakte surrounding the town may seem lifeless, but take a closer look and you’ll find that in amongst the dry white pebbles are thousands of tiny succulents eking an existence from the harsh landscape. The best place to see the succulents in all their glory is on Buys Wiese’s farm Quaggaskop, where a section of land left untouched for the last 20 years shows off the boksportjies, kameelspoor, baby toes, hitch-hikers and candy toes in all their glory. You can also see the succulents at the nursery (also started by Wiese) in Voortrekker Street.

Vanrhynsdorp is the point where you need to choose between left and right. Left takes you north along the N7 to Namaqualand, but your best bet if you've only got a few days is to keep right at Vanrhynsdorp and head over the winding Vanrhyn’s Pass to the Bokkeveld Plateau and Nieuwoudtville.

Historic Nieuwoudtville – as famous for its honey-coloured sandstone buildings as its flowers –makes a great base for exploring the area. Known as the bulb capital of the world, the farms around Nieuwoudtville spring to life in August and September as millions – literally – of Tritonia, Freesia, Ixia, Babiana, Sparaxis and Dierama bulbs burst through the usually arid soil.

Over three hundred different species of flowers have been recorded here, making it far and away the best place to experience the entire range of spring flowers South Africa has to offer.

Renishia Brandt, information officer at the Nieuwoudtville Publicity Association, says that the region is enjoying a bumper flower season: "From early September the bulbs will start coming out and they will last until the middle of September," says Brandt. "Anybody visiting the flowers should come to the information office on the Main Road and we'll show them exactly where to go. We have maps available for just five rand."

You’ll see flowers literally everywhere you look at the height of spring, but Brandt says that the Matjiesfontein Padstal, fourteen kilometres out of town on the road towards the Botterkloof Pass, is one of the highlights of the area. Dirt roads criss-cross the farm behind the padstal offering spectacular views across fields of flowers… you can even take a picnic table and enjoy breakfast amongst the blooms!

On your way back to Nieuwoudtville, stop for a look at the Oorlogskloof glacial pavement five kilometres from the village. It’s clearly signposted and just 100 metres from the road you can take a look 300-million years back in time to when glaciers covered much of the area.

Thankfully it’s warmed up a bit since then, and the Nieuwoudtville wildflower reserve two kilometres east of town is a good spot to enjoy the spring sun on your back as you gaze at the flowers. Founded in 1974, the reserve can be explored in under an hour and the 'koppie' in the centre makes a fine place for a picnic lunch.

From the outcrop you can see across the valley to the Hantam National Botanical Garden, which was recently established by the South African National Botanical Institute on the Glenlyon Conservation Farm of Neil and Neva MacGregor. Glenlyon has long been famous for having some of the best flowers in the region. The Garden is open from 7.30am – 4.30pm from Monday to Friday, but opens over weekends during flower season. Entrance is R10 per person (R5 for children) from August to October, and free of charge throughout the rest of year. Bus tours are conducted during the flower season at a cost of R150 per person.

I doubt Barry Louis Polisar has been to South Africa, but if he ever wanted to see his flowers "growing wild and free", the empty plains of the Karoo Bokkeveld surrounding Nieuwoudtville would be a good place to start.

This article originally appeared on http://travel.iafrica.com.

From affordable family options to gravity-defying suites that will take your breath (and a healthy chunk of your bank balance) away, Richard Holmes rounds up some of his favourite lodges in and around the Kruger National Park…

Stretching some 350-kilometres from north to south, the Kruger National Park is vast and offers seemingly limitless places to stay. If you're on a budget the self-catering accommodation run by SANParks is the best way to stretch your Rands, but if you've got a little cash to burn the bushveld is your oyster.

Ngala Tented Camp
"You slept in a tent?" someone with little love for the great outdoors asked on my return home from Ngala Tented Camp. "I thought you were staying in style!"

But when Ngala 'does' a tent it's a masterpiece. The tent to end all tents. A tent with lofty canvas ceilings, elephantine bed, wicker armchairs, flickering paraffin lamps and an outdoor shower simply made for watching heavenly bodies. Stars… I mean.

The main lodge is chock-full of old world charm, with a deft style that's missing from so many other safari-spots. Stuffed animals on the walls are replaced with a bright African headdress. No zebra skin couch here, just chic retro chairs in green corduroy; rough stone walls in place of tacky prints of Africa’s Big Five.

The Ngala (which means 'lion' in Shangaan) reserve itself is a modest 14 000ha, but with fences dropped with the Timbavati to the West and Kruger to the East it’s as good as being in the Park itself. And, after your guided game drive, you have that lovely lodge to come back to, not some poorly-pitched tent at the rest camp. Ah yes... if I was going to go camping in the bushveld, Ngala Tented Camp would be my wigwam of choice. www.ngala.co.za

Jock Safari Lodge
Sir Percy Fitzpatrick's bushveld tale about his faithful hound Jock is one of South Africa's best-loved children's stories, and the lodge named in his honour is one of my favourite places to stay in the park.

The lodge boasts 12 luxury air-conditioned suites (each with a private plunge pool) which combine the wilderness with a touch of elegance. Throw in romantic mozzie nets, a bottle of chardonnay in the fridge and stylish décor and you've got the perfect honeymoon getaway.

But don't spend all your time at the pool. With just 24 guests enjoying the 6000ha private concession this is the Kruger you've always dreamed of; without the traffic jams, 'no entry' signs and crowded picnic sites. Sir Percy, and Jock, would be proud. www.jocksafarilodge.com

Singita Lebombo
The jewel in the Singita group's safari crown, each of the 15 suites at Singita Lebombo has been designed to resemble an eagle's nest. A five-star eagle with impeccable taste who likes their home comforts in beak-dropping style, that is.

Raised boardwalks (the lodge is unfenced) lead to your private eyrie where natural textures are  perfectly offset by modern touches – a hanging lamp of intricately moulded glass here, a deliciously modern chair there, an iPod on the wall playing the über-cool 'Singita mix' – to make this easily the most stylish safari escape the world has to offer.

Singita Lebombo has exclusive traversing rights to a large chunk of the Kruger National Park and, as you'd expect, the game viewing is excellent with plains game and rhino in abundance. Spotting the famous 26-strong pride of lions that claim the Lebombo Mountain as their own is also a highlight.

At Singita though, enjoying a taste of the good life is every bit as important as finding game. Back at the lodge every meal from Head Chef Clinton Drake's kitchen is a masterpiece, and made all the better accompanied by a fine vintage from the Lodge's 3000-bottle wine cellar.

A stay at Singita Lebombo isn't cheap by any means, but it is certainly worth every cent… this is one of those 'before-I-die' places to add to your list. www.singita.com

Hoyo Hoyo
Set in a 10 000 hectare private concession of Kruger, Hoyo Hoyo Tsonga Lodge offers a fascinating cultural safari experience, with intriguing suites in the form of six traditional Tsonga 'beehive' huts. The lodge is proud of the area's Tsonga heritage, and all fabrics, décor and objet d’art have been sourced from the local Tsonga community.

Staff at the lodge are happy to share the Tsonga way of life with guests, and fireside tribal tales over dinner are a regular highlight. In addition to the guided walks, bush picnics and traditional game drives in 'Big Five' country, the Nomadic Spa Experience allows you to experience relaxing spa treatments in the privacy of your beehive suite.

If you're looking for something more rewarding than furry creatures and fine food in the wilderness, this cultural experience is for you. www.capemilner.com/hoyo-hoyo


Kirkman's
Sabi Sand may not officially be part of Kruger, but no other private reserve has done quite so much to establish the region as one of the world's wildlife hotspots. Renowned for its big cat sightings, the reserve has over two dozen lodges, but you couldn't ask for a better base to spot feisty felines than Kirkman's Camp.

Harking back to a time when visitors hunted big game with carbines, not Canons, the lodge's 1920s colonial atmosphere has a charm all of its own, and an evening G&T on the lawns is simply compulsory. Dinner is similarly al fresco, served by candlelight on the grass (with curious warthogs in attendance) or in the outdoor boma.

The 18 rooms are spread out a little way from the lodge, and with no fences keeping the animals out you'll need an escort back to your room in case you bump into some grumpy bachelor buffalo. Although not as grand as many other lodges, the rooms are more than comfortable with a cosy yester-year charm and private verandas offering sweeping views over the Sand River. www.ccafrica.com

Pestana Kruger Lodge
Just outside Kruger's southern Malelane gate you'll find the four-star Pestana Kruger Lodge, a great option for an affordable Kruger getaway.

Each of the lodge's 74 rooms offer views of the indigenous gardens or the Crocodile River, which forms the border between the Lodge and the park. With hippos a-splashin' and game coming down to drink you hardly need leave the hotel to go game-spotting!

Unlike most other lodges you also have a choice of restaurants at Pestana; from Buhlebethu and Crocofellas overlooking the river to the outdoor Boma braai experience there's something to suit most pockets.

Money matters aside, this is also a great spot for families – there's a health spa for mum, supertube and games for the kids and a selection of golf courses nearby for dad. The lodge is less than a kilometre from the gate, but don't forget you will need to pay entrance fees each time you enter the Park. www.pestana.com

This article originally appeared in the Out There Travel Guide.

Tooth cavities and hyperglycaemia be damned; you just can't beat Liquorice Allsorts. Whether I'm gasping for air atop some far-flung mountain or scoffing a handful for extra energy on a long road-trip, that colourful packet of ecstasy with E-numbers is my panacea for all ills; real or imagined.

Forrest Gump might have thought that life is like a box of chocolates, but I've found a hotel that's like a packet of Liquorice Allsorts; multi-coloured, irresistible and a well-deserved treat after a hard week at the keyboard coal-face. Yes, Hout Bay Manor had me at 'hello' with their free-for-all bowls of liquorice treats.

Like Hansel & Gretel stumbling on a fantastical gingerbread house deep in the forest, the wooded valleys of Hout Bay seemed a fitting spot to discover the only five-star hotel in this picturesque corner of the peninsula.

Unlike the characters in the tale by the Brothers Grimm though, there was no witch waiting at the door of Hout Bay Manor one drizzly Friday night. Rather the friendly face of Hotel Manager Claudia Mueller who, with her husband Alexander, run the hotel with friendly German efficiency.

The Manor was built in 1871 by one Jacob Trautmann, and was a popular destination for Victorian honeymooners… who probably had to endure a day's wagon ride to get there! Things have changed a little since Jacob packed his bags though.

Just 20 minutes from the city centre, and half that to the Constantia wine lands or the glamorous beaches of the Atlantic Seaboard, Hout Bay Manor is now an ideal spot for a quick weekend getaway without battling the freeways and blowing your budget on petrol.

But back to those Liquorice Allsorts.

When Sue Strüngmann took over the hotel in 2006 she decided it was time for a facelift. Out went the heavy-pile carpets and dowdy rooms, and in came a blaze of vibrant African décor.

Strüngmann describes her colourful collection of decor and art as 'a jewellery box of gems', but to me it's more a Wonka-esque walk-in-packet of liquorice allsorts. Forget Hansel locked in his cage, at the colourful Hout Bay Manor you'll feel like more like Charlie given the run of the Chocolate Factory.

Like all historic hotels though, you can still feel the history of the place and eyes follow you everywhere. A papier-mâché rhino stares blindly down the hallway, historic photographs peer out from tumble-down frames and African statues stand guard at the bedroom door.

And what a bedroom it is.

The hotel's 21 rooms revel in all things continental, from Xhosa-print curtains to a colonial-style free-standing bath. Sleek modern fittings sit contrast the Zulu head-dresses; both reflected in the crystals of a decadent chandelier. It's not all glitz and glam though… the rooms have a playful touch, with a pot of paints tucked in the drawer and a rubber duck (beaded, for an African touch) simply begging for a bath-mate.

But it's not the duck you'll want to be bathing with. This is the place for romantic escapism, from the outdoor shower in the 'Sotho' room to testing out the four-poster beds. 

While the hotel is attracting the city's young and beautiful, the Hout Bay Manor is without doubt a grand dame who's seen it all and been dolled up for one last romantic fling.

As I pocket a last stolen handful of allsorts on my way out, I think to myself: "Who says you shouldn't accept sweets from grand old ladies?"

IF YOU GO…
Where it is: Hout Bay, Cape Town
Why go there: Apart from the free Allsorts? It's the perfect base for a few days in Cape Town – close to scenic beaches, great restaurants and the award-winning vineyards in Constantia. You won't find a more stylish hotel in the valley.
What it offers: 21 decadent rooms tucked quietly off the main drag towards Chapman's Peak Drive. The Sangoma Suite is ideal for families, or ask for a room with mountain views. Wi-fi, zillion-count linen, plasma satellite televisions and all the usual mod-cons are served up with a healthy dollop of style and character. You can walk to the beach, or there's a courtyard pool for lazy days when the South-Easter blows.
What it's like: An unexpected pleasure, really. Hout Bay is better known for its horsey-set mansions and sprawling township, so a stylish boutique hotel in this once-woody corner of the Cape is a boon. Friendly service and skilled barmen are a particular treat.
And the food: The restaurant 'Pure', under the skillet of Executive Chef Alexander Mueller, is making waves in the pernickety Cape Town dining scene. This stylish spot is not cheap, but for a menu including Foie Gras and Crayfish you get what you pay for. Extensive wine-list has an excellent range of Cape vintages.
What there is to see on the way: Everything the Mother City has to offer: shopping to the north, wine to the east, sundowners to the west and some of the best beaches in the country down south. Cape Point is just 30 minutes away.
Rates: From R1190 – R3800 per room until 31 October, and R1550 – R4950 from 1 November to 30 April 2009.
Getting there: Follow Rhodes Avenue (M63) to Constantia Nek, across the traffic circle and down into Hout Bay. Turn left off Main Road into Baviaanskloof Road. The hotel will be on your left.
Contact: Telephone 021-790-0116 or email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it . Visit www.houtbaymanor.com to find out more.

» Published in the Sunday Times, 7 September 2008

"The President of the Republic of Swellendam requests all whom it may concern to allow the bearer of this passport to pass freely without let or hindrance and to afford the bearer all necessary assistance and protection."

That's how the preamble to your little green book may have started if one Hermanus Steyn had had his way.

Back in 1746 the Dutch East India Company decided they'd had enough of free burghers disappearing beyond the Breede River and failing to pay rent to the company, and the decision was made to build a Drostdy to keep the errant farmers in line. What was once a dusty dorp soon became a thriving town, and the booming settlement was named in honour of the Dutch governor at the time, Hendrik Swellengrebel, and his wife Helena ten Damme.

Unsurprisingly, the farmers weren't too charmed with the Company keeping tabs on them and in the late 1790s they – led by Hermanus himself – forced the landdrost to resign and declared the area an independent republic. That, however, lasted all of three months until the British took control of the Cape and Steyn's global ambitions were extinguished.

Thankfully, Swellendam is a far more-laid-back place these days. The Drostdy is still there, but it's now a fine country museum (www.drostdymuseum.com) filled with tourists, not truants. Period houses and delightful rose gardens also form part of the museum complex, while the Gaol that housed runaways and renegades is home to one of the best coffee shops in the Overberg.

After indulging in their signature 'roosterkoek' it's just a short wander down the hill to Schoone Oordt, a Victorian landmark at the foot of historic Swellengrebel Street. Built in 1853, Schoone Oordt (which, fittingly, translates from Dutch as 'beautiful place') has been home to school matrons and mayors, but was in a sorry state when Richard and Alison Walker discovered the property in 2003.

Four years of painstaking restoration followed, with the couple – along with friend and partner Roy Hunter – giving the magnificent manor house a new lease on life. Paint was stripped, furniture was restored and new life was breathed into this National Monument. The addition of eight guest suites and a honeymoon cottage scattered around the lush grounds has made this a charming country escape for the weekend.

Not that you need the honeymooners hide-out for a romantic weekend away. Every suite boasts a gargantuan bed decked in quality linen and a Victorian tub big enough for two. Private patios overlooking the blooming beds of roses beg for a tipple on warm summer evenings, but when there's snow on the Langeberg behind town the bedside fireplace is laid, simply waiting to be lit.
Tastefully chosen period furniture is a credit to Richard's keen eye for antiques, and further blends the suites with the Victorian manor house. Yet another small piece of history unobtrusively tucked away in the side-streets of Swellendam.
With grain silos and factories lining the N2 you could be forgiven for driving straight past Swellendam as you zoom to and from the Garden Route or Mother City, but the town is a treasure trove of architecture and next time you're passing it's well worth giving this historic heart of the Overberg the recognition it deserves. Hermanus Steyn would be pleased.

IF YOU GO…
Where it is: Swellengrebel Street, Swellendam.
Why go there: Swellendam is perhaps the most under-rated town in the Overberg, with fascinating history and fabulous restaurants. It's the perfect overnight stop on a Garden Route trip, but is close enough for a weekend getaway from Cape Town.
What it offers: Eight gorgeous guest suites and one private honeymoon cottage tucked under the trees on the banks of the Koornlands River. Rose gardens, croquet set and a Victorian pool complete the period picture.
What it's like: A little like having good friends with a magnificent country pad. Richard's eye for detail brings the suites to life, Roy is always on hand with an entertaining tale and Alison keeps a calm maternal hand on the household.
And the food: Ali's gourmet breakfasts will set you on the right foot for a day of exploring. For dinner, the town has some fantastic eateries. Try Gianni and Cristiana Minori's La Sosta for authentic Italian fare (thankfully, not a pizza in sight!), or Koornland's Restaurant for a taste of 'Cuisine du Cap'.
What there is to see on the way: Rolling hills of wheat and canola against a backdrop of rugged Cape mountains. Take R62 for an even more scenic detour.
Rates: From R550 - R850 per person sharing until 30 November, and R600 - R925 from 1 December to 30 November 2009. Low season specials valid until 31 August.
Getting there: Follow the N2 from Cape Town for 240kms. Take the second exit to Swellendam which leads you into Swellengrebel Street.
Contact: Telephone 028-514-1248 or email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it . Visit www.schooneoordt.co.za for more information and online bookings.

This article originally appeared in The Sunday Times on August 3, 2008.

Hurtling along the N14 through the rather unattractive outskirts of Johannesburg, it’s hard to imagine Australopithecus africanus and his pre-human buddies high-tailing it across this dusty piece of Highveld pursued by sabre-toothed cats and long-legged hunting hyenas. Keep with the dreary N14 though; hang a right at the Krugersdorp four-way stop and you’ll soon discover the incredible history of this corner of Gauteng.

When I mentioned to my wife that we were going to visit the Sterkfontein caves, the audible groan was almost enough to make me turn the car around and head back to the malls and… well, malls… of the big city. Countless school trips filing past dusty fragments of bones explained by even dustier white cardboard captions had made any interest in the prehistoric as extinct as Mrs Ples herself.

Thankfully, a visit today to the Sterkfontein Caves bears no resemblance to those dreary school outings of days gone by. Just fifty kilometres west of Africa’s economic powerhouse, the very roots of humankind lie waiting, patiently, to be discovered at two wonderful new visitor attractions. the 47 000 hectare area known as the Cradle of Humankind – a designated World Heritage Site – is home to over three million years of human activity and over forty percent of the entire world's human ancestor fossils have been found in and around these nondescript koppies.

The Sterkfontein valley consists of around 40 different fossil sites, but the epicenter of the Cradle is the Sterkfontein Caves, where Dr Robert Broom excavated a near complete skull of Plesianthropus Transvaalensis in 1947; then the first hard evidence ever found of the ape-man ‘missing link’. Although ‘Mrs Ples’ – as she was later called – has become the icon of the Caves and the Cradle of Humankind, over 500 hominid fossils and 9000 stone tools dating back 3.5-million years have been discovered in the surrounding cave systems.

The revamped visitor centre is proving to be a huge hit with local and overseas visitors, offering facilities that match the incredible discoveries to be made below ground. But before exploring the new museum a tour through the caves is the perfect way to get a real sense of the history and mystery behind the cutting edge science that takes place nearby.

Well-informed, if rather short, guided tours run regularly through the caves and are highly recommended if you want to understand more about the history and palaeontological significance of the area. The caves, formed over millennia by water eroding the soft dolomite rock, were first discovered in the late 1800s when prospector Gulgimo Martinaglia stumbled upon them while searching for lime deposits. More interested in the lime and guano the caves had to offer, the miners’ dynamite destroyed many of the caves’ most incredible rock formations, but there are still some remarkable examples of stalactites, stalagmites and flowstone to marvel at. Enthusiastic guides such as bring the history of the area to life with tales of fortune seekers, saber-tooth tigers and serious scientists and are able to answer anything from geomorphology to human genealogy.

If you still have questions, the new museum is the place to find the answers. Expertly revamped, the displays of human pre-history and how we came to be is brought to life in a way that’ll appeal to both young and old. Using fossils, dioramas (keep an eye out for the slightly dazed female hominid!), displays and text, you’ll be transported from the days of Gondwanaland through the millennia to the many incarnations of modern humans, telling the story of human evolution. Creationists beware!
www.discover-yourself.co.za

Can you say ‘Homo Erectus’ without giggling?

If Sterkfontein is the old dealing with the ancient, then Maropeng is the prehistoric presented by the brand spanking new. In keeping with discovering where we came from, the very name ‘Maropeng’ is a Setswana word meaning ‘returning to the place of origin’, which highlights the fact that humankind originated from Africa.

“Maropeng at the Cradle of Humankind is not only part of our national pride, but to the world, it denotes the universal relevance of the Cradle of Humankind as the ancestral home of all, no matter what colour, culture or creed,” says Erica Saunders from Maropeng, which is just five minutes drive from the Sterkfontein Caves.

From the moment you wander up the processional way, it’s obvious that the history of humankind is to be discovered below ground. The skyline is dominated by the ‘tumulus’ – the recreation of an ancient burial mound – which leads you down into the bowels of the earth. First up is a Disney-style underground boat ride that’s meant to speed you through four billion years in geological time as the earth evolves through the basic elements of water, air, fire and earth. While kids will be sure to squeal and shriek at the falling water and rumbling earth, adults will learn little until the ride offers more info and less theatrics; an upgrade that is apparently in the pipeline.

Don’t be disheartened by the slightly superficial boat ride; the main exhibition hall is one of the most innovative museums South Africa has to offer. Exciting visual displays such as ‘Birth of the Cradle’ explains how the caves were formed and the concept of evolution, while ‘The Path to Humanity’ manages to compress four-billion years of human development from prehistoric Australopithecus to Homo Sapien into a more digestible 12-hours of history.

“There are no passengers on Spaceship Earth, we are all crew”

The museum is a sensory overload and is perfectly suited for kids, with exhibits that can be pulled, pushed and whirled to make palaeontology palatable to pre-teens. Exhibits like ‘Dial-a-Dodo’ – where you can ‘listen’ to extinct animals talking – manage to make a usually dry topic fun to explore, while ‘What it means to be human’ explores the shared characteristics that separate human from ape.

Reinforcing the words of Marshall McLuhan, that “There are no passengers on Spaceship Earth, we are all crew,” the display ends with a thought-provoking exhibit on sustainability, and the fact that if we want to be around for the next four billion years we need to stop consuming the planet at the rate we are. A sobering reminder that planning for the future is as important as exploring the past.

Want to spend more time exploring? Maropeng also offers a four-star boutique hotel, offering 24 stylish rooms. In summer the pool deck overlooking the distant Witwatersberg and Magaliesberg mountain ranges is the place to be, or you can simply soak up the winter sun while enjoying a meal at the chic restaurant.
www.maropeng.co.za


Apart from Maropeng, there’s a range of accommodation on offer in the area, from luxury guesthouses to self-catering cottages. The Forum Homini hotel nearby also plays off the association with Australopithecus, but for something different take a drive down the old Kromdraai road to Kloofzicht Lodge, a five-star establishment offering 42 thatch roof suites set in a small nature reserve on the banks of the Blaauwbank Spruit as it meanders through the Zwartkops gorge. Accommodation is suitably luxurious and the Lodge seems popular with conference groups, but the real attraction is to throw a fly for trout, bass and the elusive yellowfish in one of the six individually-stocked dams.
www.kloofzicht.co.za

If fishing’s not your scene, right next door is the Rhino & Lion Nature Reserve where you can spot anything from white rhinos to big cats. On the edge of the reserve is the popular Wonder Cave, and although no fossils have been found here the cave formations are extraordinary. Most visitors take the lift down into the cave, but if you’re feeling adventurous you can even abseil in! If you still can’t get enough of being underground you can also visit the Old Kromdraai Gold Mine, one of the first gold mines on the Witwatersrand dating back to 1881.
www.rhinolions.co.za, www.wondercave.co.za, www.forumhomini.co.za

After all that dirty work, a bit of spa pampering is definitely in order and the Riverview Day Spa is a great place to relax and enjoy a range of holistic treatments just metres from the Crocodile River. You can also try The Spa in the Country at the Misty Hills Country Hotel.
www.rali.co.za, www.healthspas.co.za

The Joburg rat race is enough to stress out even the most evolved city slicker, but a weekend spent in the company of Mrs Ples and the ancestors exploring the Cradle of Humankind is bound to make you feel a little more, well, human.

» This article was originally published in the Out There Travel Guide.