Did he, or didn’t he? I’m afraid I still don’t know the answer.

Read almost any guidebook on Maputo and you’ll be sure to hear about Monsieur Alexandre Gustave Eiffel. Yes, he of Parisian tower fame. Brochures and tour guides love to crow about how Eiffel dreamed up the elegant baroque dome of Maputo’s central railway station, while local historian Antonio Sopa traces the grand rooftop to Johannesburg, where it was – he says – conceived by the company Evans and Plows.

But regardless of who built it, the end of the line from Johannesburg to the city once known Lourenço Marques is certainly one of the most beautiful stations in Africa, and a highlight of any wander through the Mozambican capital. You’ll find an art gallery and delightful restaurant just off the platform, as well as a shop selling wonderful fabrics fashioned from the colourful capulana cloths worn by local women.

As with most big cities, Maputo is a metropolis best discovered on foot. While gleaming new office blocks spring to life on the road north of the city centre, most of the sights worth seeing are found in the compact, and easily walkable, area known as the baixa (pronounced buy-sha).

It’s a colourful part of town young men play table football on pavements, street vendors sell roasted cashews and shoeshine stalls do a roaring trade. Turn your eyes heavenward, and fading Portuguese-era buildings with intricate wrought-iron canopies and broad balconies jostle for space with ‘70s-era concrete tower blocks crying out for of a lick of paint… and none more so than the delightful buildings designed by the city’s most famous architectural son.

Amancio ‘Pancho’ Guedes sculpted much of the Maputo skyline in the ‘50s, ‘60s and ‘70s, drawing inspiration from the likes of Antonio Gaudi and Frank Lloyd Wright. Guedes designed hundreds of buildings in the dying days of Portuguese control and anyone with an interest in architecture would do well to sign up for a specialised walking tour (see below) of the city, discovering the gems hidden away in the nooks and crannies of the capital.

But a popular stop for tourists is a piece of architecture that didn’t fare too well.

Perhaps the most impractical piece of tropical building work the world has ever seen, the famous Iron House – this time officially designed by Eiffel – was shipped out to present-day Maputo as a residence for the governor of the Portuguese colony. Unsurprisingly, the prefabricated iron building became unbearably hot under the African sun and the governor didn’t spend long in his sweltering abode.

The overheated Governor probably took refuge in the Jardim Tunduru, a few steps from the Casa de Ferro and today guarded by a statue of Mozambique’s first president — Samora Machel. The gardens date back to 1885 and offer a welcome respite from the city heat. Although today they are poorly kept, a major renovation project is on the cards for early 2011. 

And there’s certainly a sense of Maputo being a city on the rise. Despite the potholed roads and littered streets, there’s a vibrant energy in the city, and construction cranes on the skyline signal that the economy seems to be booming. Culturally there’s also a vibrant local arts scene, with galleries and artists workshops sprinkled throughout the city.

The Museo Nacional de Arte on Avenida Ho Chi Min has an excellent display of art and sculpture from some of Mozambique’s finest contemporary artists, along with special temporary exhibits. On a smaller scale, the Núcleo de Arte on Rua da Argélia is also worth a look in.

This small cooperative in a rambling colonial house has a permanent gallery of up-and-coming artists, with a few eclectic workshops out back where you can watch the painters and sculptors at work.  Keep an eye out for the fascinating ‘guns-into-art’ sculptures. There’s regular live music on Sunday nights (it starts early, at around 6.30pm) as well as a small café-restaurant.

Mozambique’s most celebrated artist – Malangatana Valente Ngwenya – has a dedicated museum and studio outside of the city, but you’ll see his art throughout the city. Two of the best murals are to be found hidden away in the gardens of the popular Natural History Museum, that most tourists visit for a peek at the preserved elephant foetuses showing all 22 months of development. 

The building itself is one of the city’s most attractive, and worth a visit in itself, but the grandiose front entrance hides the interesting extension designed by Guedes, along with the two Malangatana murals. It’s also worth popping into the studio of Reinata, Mozambique’s leading ceramic artist, who you’ll find in the outside taxidermy room!

From the museum it’s a long, but pleasant walk back to the baixa along Av. Patrice Lumumba. And if you’re wondering about the street names, the hangover from the days of newfound independence mean that your wanders through the city will also turn into a refresher course on Communist luminaries.

Meander down Avenida Ho Chi Min, pace up Av. Vladimir Lenine and stroll along the scenic Av. Friedrich Engels. Important dates in Mozambique’s history are also commemorated with the likes of Av. 25 de Setembro, 10 de Novembro and 24 de Julho. 

The square at Praça 25 de Junho is as good a spot as any to end off a day of wandering, especially on a Saturday. While the nearby Mercado Municipal – brimming with fresh fruit, veg and fish – is open any day of the week, the craft market in the square only trades on Saturdays, and is a great spot for collecting souvenirs and gifts.

There are also great crafts to be found in the historic Fortaleza across the road. Built by the Portuguese in the 18th century, the squat rusty-red fort was some of the first roots put down by the colonizers in a rule that would last for nearly two centuries. Those roots, along with the city’s old name of Lourenço Marques, are all but forgotten now. After centuries of colonialism, and decades of civil war, Mozambique is firmly on the mend and – despite still needing a lick of paint – there’s no doubt that for Maputo the sun is certainly rising on this city be the sea.

SMART TRAVELLER

• Where to stay: With its beachfront location and relaxed atmosphere, leisure travellers and businessmen taking it easy will enjoy the Southern Sun Maputo out on the Avenida da Marginal. Despite offering over 150 rooms, it has the relaxed feel of a smaller hotel, and has the best breakfast in town with front-row views of the sunrise over the Indian Ocean. Visit www.southernsun.com, or call +258 21 495 050. For business travelers who’d prefer to be in the city centre, the four-star Pestana Rovuma hotel is in the heart of Maputo and offers a range of modern rooms and suites. Visit www.pestana.com or call + 258 21 305 000.
• Where to eat: Maputo abounds with great restaurants, and seafood-fans will be in seventh heaven. The Costa do Sol is a Maputo institution, dishing up some of the best food in the city. Don’t miss the Prawns Naçional – it’s not on the menu, but this unusual dish of prawns baked in Laurentina beer is outstanding.
  
• See the city: If you don’t want to explore Maputo on your own, a number of tour companies offer city tours of the main highlights, as well as excursions further afield to Catembe and Inhaca Island. For specialist tours of Maputo’s unique architecture, contact Jane Flood on This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .

Lake Pichola is waiting for the monsoons. Each day in the dry tail end of spring the water level drops further down the stone ghats where local washerwomen still pummel their soapy saris against the steps, much as they have done for centuries. Not yet ruffled by the monsoon showers, the Lake is still this evening; a watery mirror interrupted only by the wake of boats ferrying tourists towards the jetty below me. To the west, the dust is thick in the Aravalli Hills that enclose Udaipur, turning the setting sun into a perfect saffron orb.

“Did you know, the emperor Shah Jahan was exiled on this island in 1623? The legend goes that much of his inspiration for the Taj Mahal came from the domes and gardens he discovered here.”

The tour leader I've been eavesdropping on eventually wanders off, umbrella held high, and my wife and I keep wandering along the waterside promenade of Jagmandir Island. Once a pleasure palace built for the ruling maharajahs, it’s easy to see how Jahan was inspired here to build his famous monument to love that has graced the skyline of Agra since 1653. The marble domes and formal gardens on Jagmandir are stunning in their simplicity, mirrored in reflecting ponds much as they are in the rectangular pools at Agra.

This warm spring evening though, it’s the reflection of the Taj Lake Palace hotel that catches our eye. A white marble edifice shimmering across the lake, it seems like an apparition that might disappear in the blink of an eye. Thankfully that’s not the case, as it’s where we’ve laid our bags for the night; a dose of five-star comfort that’s a welcome respite from the past week of tiring travelling.

No sooner has our boat pulled up to the hotel quay, than the handsome Rajasthani doorman – his smile as broad as his bushy handlebar moustache – whisks us up the stairs. His deep red coat matches the carpet that lines our path to the lobby, where rose petals rain from above as we step inside. Yes, I could definitely get used to this.

The dry days of spring morph into mild evenings and Bhairo, the Lake Palace’s rooftop restaurant, has the best seats in town to gaze across at the city. While Bhairo – which offers a modern European-influenced menu – has the vistas, it’s the spices of Neel Kamal that catch my attention.

Overlooking the formal courtyard gardens below, the hotel’s flagship restaurant is reminiscent of a maharajah’s private banquet hall, and serves up royal Rajasthani fare and Indian favourites with fine dining flair.

Indian thalis – a tasting platter of two or three curries, served with rice and naan – became my standard order in India, and the ‘Menu Exceptional’ at Neel Kamal is a thali with style. Rajasthani favourites like Laal maas (lamb curry cooked with whole spices), Bail Gatta curry (fenugreek seasoned dumplings in aromatic gravy) and Thikri Ki Dal (yellow lentils spiced with ginger and chili) were three favourites from a feast that stretched to a dozen courses.

Neel Kamal adds a touch of style to each dish, but they are all Rajasthani standards that you’ll find in most decent restaurants across the state. And as my wife was happy to discover, vegetarians are extremely well catered for on Indian menus, where carnivorous dishes are often the exception.

After a traditional North Indian breakfast of stuffed paratha (flat breads rolled with cheese and vegetables) and a pot of spicy masala chai we’re eager to get out and explore the city. The doorman hails a boat that delivers us to the doorstep of the towering City Palace.

Once known as Mewar, the city of Udaipur was founded in 1559 when the Hindu Maharajah Udai Singh II fled the sacking of Chittor by the Mughal emperor Akbar. Vowing not to be defeated by the Muslims again, he built his imposing palace on the shores of the Lake. Generation after generation added successive layers, and today 17 individual palaces make up the labyrinth of royal rooms that tower over the Lake and the city beyond.

Leaving the serene gardens of the palace complex, the frenetic city is a shock to the system. Auto-rickshaws screech to a halt to heckle us for business; shopkeepers exhort us to step inside for “just looking” while dogs, cattle and camels create chaos amongst the traffic. I reckon John Kenneth Galbraith, a US diplomat based in Delhi, was right when he described India as “a functioning anarchy.”

We leave the crowds behind though and take a breather at the intricately carved Jagdish Temple. Built by Maharaja Jagat Singh in 1651, it enshrines a black stone image of Vishnu as Jagannath – Lord of the Universe – while a brass image of the eagle-god Garuda loyally waits.

Jagdish is the most accessible temple in Udaipur, but it’s certainly not the most impressive. Udaipur makes an excellent base for exploring some of the most magnificent holy sites in Rajasthan.
Not to be missed are the 108 stone temples at Eklingji, 30 kilometres to the north of the city. First built in 971AD, Eklingji is one of the holiest religious sites in India, and draws Hindu pilgrims from across the country. Nearby, the delicate stone carvings at Nagda –telling the story of the epic Ramayana – are also worth a look in.

There are other, more elaborate, temples to explore further afield, but most tourists to Udaipur stay within the city. Brochures brag about this city of Rajput kings being the ‘Venice of the East’, and in the old town all roads – winding though they may be – eventually lead towards the lake.

We wander towards the nearby Gangaur ghat where freshly washed saris are laid out to dry on the ancient stone steps. Nearby, cattle quietly chew the cud as a busker screeches away on a traditional ravanhasta fiddle, hoping for a few rupees. Local children, still wet from an after-school swim in the lake, chat to us to practise their English. Across the creek that feeds Lake Pichola, brightly painted elephants enjoy a mud bath in between amusing tourists with rides through the narrow streets.

Lining the waterfront, the lakeside havelis near the ghat are a good option if the Taj Lake Palace is a bit rich for your wallet. Once home to the town’s aristocracy, many of these palatial waterfront homes have been restored and converted into small hotels, with personal service and richly decorated rooms. Most also have excellent rooftop restaurants, allowing you to drink in the views of the lake while devouring a portion of dal bati churma, a popular Rajasthani lentil dish.

From the haveli rooftops, the famous façade of Udaipur opens up before you. The sandy hues of the City Palace transform as the sun dips behind distant hills, children splash about happily at the ghats and the lake waits, patiently, for the monsoon.

The wake from a boat loaded with tourists slashes open the mirrored surface of Lake Pichola, as a necklace of lights flickers to life around Jagmandir Island. Shah Jahan may have grabbed the headlines with the Taj Mahal, but it’s hard not to think that the magic of Udaipur played its part.

Get me there…

• To start planning your visit, go to www.incredibleindia.org. You can also contact Incredible India in Johannesburg on 011 325 0880 or This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .
• South African passport-holders require a visa to visit India. Visit the High Commission website at www.indiainsouthafrica.com for details.
• Food & Home flew to India with Qatar Airways, which flies into both Johannesburg and Cape Town. Visit www.qatarairways.com or call 0861 861 868.
• For more information on the Taj Lake Palace, visit www.tajhotels.com.

The personal touch. That’s the secret. You can have all the star-rated, direct dial, 300-thread count, Moulton Brown, organic menu bells and whistles you like, but without the deft touch of an owner that cares – I mean, really, cares – about looking after their guests… well, then all is lost in my opinion.

Happily the personal touch is what you’ll find in spades at Three Tree Hill, a cosy family-owned lodge overlooking the Spioenkop Nature Reserve, about halfway between the N3 and the ever-popular Northern Drakensberg. And there’s no doubting the personal touch of Simon and Cheryl Blackburn, for within minutes of arriving at their quaint settler-style lodge you’ll feel like part of the family. Dogs bound about happily, kids wander through reception and the in-laws ask you if you had a good drive down from Joburg.

But don’t get me wrong; this is no unsophisticated mom-and-pop B&B. With years of experience in the Kruger National Park’s upmarket safari lodges, Simon and Cheryl (yes, it’s first names all the way here. Airs and graces are forbidden) know how to add a touch of unpretentious luxury, from the pool with jaw-dropping views to the six cosy guest cottages.

It’s here you’ll get the chance to relive the old frontier days, when the roofs were made of tin and the stoeps were deep and shady. Tasteful aloe motifs echo the wild variety outside the window and rooms are elegant, but not over-the-top, with thoughtful touches in almost every corner. If you’re counting your carbon footprint, relax… the lodge is the first in KZN to bag a Green Leaf Award for its environmental good practice.

And the food? As you’d expect, it’s homely country-style cuisine whipped together from farm-fresh local produce.  You won’t find a jus or reduction in sight, but do put in a special request for the delicious Lentil Curry. With just 12 guests, dinners are served at a convivial communal tale where you’ll get to pepper Omri Nene with your battlefields questions. A century ago these hills rang with gunfire from the Second Anglo Boer War, and daily tours to battle sites in and around the area are not to be missed. With that ticked off your list you can choose between country crafters, game drives in the neighbouring reserves or hikes in the Royal Natal National Park.

At the end of the day, just kick back on your shaded stoep, gaze up at Spioenkop’s grassy flanks and imagine the bravery and bloodshed that took place on these mountains green. This hide-away with history offers views to the horizon that will replenish any jaded city-dweller’s soul.

www.threetreehill.co.za
036 448 1171
082 379 1864

First published in Indwe magazine; July 2010

The Mother City. Slaapstad. iKapa. The Fairest Cape. Whatever you choose to call Cape Town there’s no doubting its magnetic appeal. European-style cafes abound, beaches surround the city on three sides, wineries beckon in the distance and the country’s finest restaurants are to be found in its historic streets. No wonder Capetonians are renowned (and envied) for their laid-back lifestyle!

There’s no point rushing about trying to tick off a to-do list when you’re in the arms of the Mother City, so we’ve selected a few sights you absolutely cannot afford to skip.

[CAN'T MISS]
Towering a kilometre above the city the flat-topped Table Mountain is Cape Town’s defining feature, but you don’t have to be a mountain goat to reach its lofty heights. The Table Mountain Cableway will whisk you to the summit in just five minutes, offering spectacular views. Whether it’s the colourful Bo-Kaap or flashy Camps Bay, Cape Town looks good from all angles, so if there’s just one thing you do in the Mother Cityit should be to see them all from up high. Book your tickets online (http://tablemountain.net) and avoid the queues.


[TO-DO LIST]
Ease into Cape Town with a wander through the colourful city centre, where you’ll discover crafts from the continent in historic Greenmarket Square, more great shopping in and around St. George’s Mall, a green haven in the peaceful Company’s Garden and some of the country’s best art in the SA National Gallery.

But whether you’re in town for a weekend or a month, a drive along the length of the peninsula is a great way to get your bearings. Take the M3 out of town and you’ll pass close to Kirstenbosch Gardens (www.sanbi.org), one of the world’s finest botanical gardens. Established over 350 years ago, it’s the perfect place to discover the unique flora of the Cape Floral Kingdom. 

The nearby Constantia Wine Route (www.constantiawineroute.co.za) can also lay claim to a few centuries of history, with the first vines in South Africa planted here in the 17th century. Klein Constantia, Buitenverwachting, Uitsig and Steenberg all offer tastings free of charge.

With the vineyards in the rear-view mirror you’ll soon reach one of the city’s most scenic drives, as the Main Road winds its way from Muizenberg to Cape Point, often just metres from the splash of False Bay. Grab a surfing lesson at Surfer’s Corner (and try not to think about the sharks) or press on to the quaint fishing harbour of Kalk Bay. Wander along the pier and admire the colourful fishing fleet, or browse the village’s delightful art galleries and antique shops.

Fish Hoek beach is best visited in summer, so press on to the historic village of Simon’s Town. Once home to the Royal Navy, it’s a Great Dane called Just Nuisance that is the town’s favourite son. You’ll learn all about him, and the history of the village, on a one-hour harbour cruise with the Simon’s Town Boat Company (www.boatcompany.co.za). Fishing charters to the tuna grounds off Cape Point can also be found here.

Rich fishing waters are the reason the colony of African Penguins settled at nearby Boulders Beach, well worth a look in on your way to Cape Point Nature Reserve. The lighthouse at the Point is the main attraction, but leave a little time to explore the Cape of Good Hope and some of the reserve’s wonderful walking trails.

Crossing the spine of the peninsula, your road back to the city offers stunning views west over the glittering Atlantic. Take a stroll on Long Beach and then gasp at the view from the scenic Chapman’s Peak Drive, a good spot for late-afternoon fish ‘n chips from the picturesque Hout Bay harbour.

With the sun setting, the city is your oyster. Cape Town is home to the best restaurants in South Africa, with something for every pocket. The shops and restaurants of the V&A Waterfront are a perennial favourite, but head out into the city at least one night. Aubergine, Jardine’s and Savoy Cabbage offer some of the best fine dining in the city centre, or opt for something more affordable in Long Street. This vibey thoroughfare is home to most of Cape Town’s nightlife, from live music venues to bars and nightclubs.  More something a little more colourful, head for the boho bars and clubs of Observatory.


[LOCALS' SECRET]
Ignore the run-down buildings in lower Woodstock and keep an eye out for the rows of BMWs. That’s when you’ll know you’re close to the smorgasbord of all things foodie on offer at the Neighbourgoods Market (www.neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za).

Held every Saturday at the Old Biscuit Mill from 9am – 2pm, there’s no better place to stock up for a day of exploring. A trailer-full of artisanal bread comes through from Worcester in the wee hours, and is the perfect crust for the to-die-for duck liver paté. You’ll also find wonderful cheeses, home-smoked hams, delicate olives, great coffee and melt-in-the mouth French tarts.


[CHILD'S PLAY]
The Two Oceans Aquarium should be your first stop on a rainy day. Six galleries home to over 3000 marine animals call the aquarium – in the heart of the V&A Waterfront – home. Kids will gasp at sharks and rays in the Predator Tank and the peaceful undersea Kelp Forest, while the Afrisam Children’s Centre will keep them entertained while parents explore in peace.

The Planetarium at the top of the Company’s Gardens also offers a daily kids’ show, bring the stars down to earth. Also back on terra firma, the Higgeldy Piggeldy Farmyard at Imhoff Farm near Kommetjie is a fun-filled favourite with younger visitors. Children can get up close to a variety of friendly farmyard animals, from Piccadilly the pony to Mr Ginger the rabbit. The World of Birds in Hout Bay is equally likely to enthral young twitchers.

[DAY TRIP]
A day in the Cape winelands is a must for any visitor. Franschhoek is famous for its sparkling wines made in the champagne style, while Paarl and Stellenbosch are known for their elegant reds.

Spend a little time in and around Stellenbosch, exploring the historic oak-lined streets of South Africa’s second oldest city. If you’re short on time, the Spier Estate offers a complete wine experience; from tastings to theatre, a deli and even wildlife interactions with raptors and cheetah.


[STADIUM NEED TO KNOW]
Built in the shadow of Signal Hill, the brand-new Cape Town Stadium towers over the Green Point Common. Parking in the area is limited, so public transport is your best bet. A free shuttle bus for ticket holders will run from the main transport hub in Hertzog Boulevard from four hours before kick-off, until four hours after the final whistle. A park-and-ride service (also free) will run from the University of Cape Town to the main transport hub. An Atlantic seaboard bus service (fee payable) will operate from Hout Bay to the main transport hub from four hours before kick-off until 2am.

First published in Equinox magazine; June/July 2010

You know; I try. I really try not to like Franschhoek. The Main Road with its crowded cafés full of Joburg weekenders and Cape Town trendies, its over-priced properties flaunting themselves in estate agents’ windows, noisy hordes of Sunday bikers and the red-white-and-blue tricolore fluttering outside every ever-so-kitsch La-this or Le-that. At first glance it all looks a little overdone; a South African village with a bad French accent, so it’s no surprise snarky writers and snooty travellers love to rail against the faux-Frenchiness of what has become the most popular village in the Cape’s wine lands.

And yet, like so many others, despite my best intentions I find myself drawn to this hamlet beneath the Hottentots Holland Mountains almost against my will. I end up ensconced in the Sunday papers and perfectly piquant Eggs Benedict at one of those cafés, browsing the décor shops in the cloistered malls and filling a bag at the quirky Huguenot Books at the bottom of Main Street.

During almost every visit I come to with a start, wondering how I ended up here on yet another glorious winter weekend of crisp mornings and – occasionally – snow-capped peaks. Sometimes, although I hate to admit it, I even peer into those estate agents’ windows, wondering if I could ever afford a piece of this valley (in case you were wondering, the answer is always no).

If only the Franschhoek Valley weren't so darn gorgeous. If only it didn't lay claim to some of South Africa's top restaurants. If only somewhere else produced such excellent wines. If it had none of these things we'd have an excuse to scoff at the Gallic names and find somewhere else to indulge in all things gourmet.

However, it’s not hard to see why the French Huguenots settled in this picturesque corner of the fledgling Dutch colony. When they pitched up at the Cape in 1688 they didn't waste any time in finding a quiet spot where they could forget about being persecuted by the Catholics, plant their vines and whip up some homely Gallic cuisine to get them settled in. In with the Old World, out with the New.

Three hundred years later the gastronomic ghost of the Huguenots still wanders the streets of the ‘French Corner’, with the spirit of France inspiring the menus of many of the area’s best restaurants.

The Franschhoek valley is all about food, wine and the finer things in life, so it seems fitting that one of the town’s top eateries is named ‘Le Bon Vivant’. Situated on a quiet side-street, this classy art-filled restaurant is where Dutch-born chef/patron Pierre Hendricks creates fine-dining dishes that balance both Asian and European flavours with the region’s famous local produce. The cosy dining room looks into a show kitchen to watch the team at work, while tables spill out onto a shaded patio for still summer evenings.

Hendricks offers fine dining at pocket-friendly prices, but if you’re happy to send your credit card running for the hills then there’s really only one table in town to book at. Margot Janse's artistry in the kitchen made ‘The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Française’ South Africa's top restaurant in 2008, and her intimate eatery is regularly ranked amongst the 50 best restaurants in the world.

The tasting menus will set you back R500/R700 for five/eight courses, but for your money you'll get your pick of clouds, foams and kitchen wizardry conjured up by Janse using the finest fresh, local ingredients. Knowledgeable sommeliers are on hand to help you pick a suitable wine from the Valley to accompany. It won't be cheap, but if you love your food and wine this is the place to blow your budget.

The Tasting Room is out of reach for many travelers, but the town abounds with gourmet offerings; from artisanal charcuterie at Bread & Wine to homely Malay dishes at Fyndraai on the Solms-Delta wine estate. Don’t miss out on a wander through their excellent Museum van de Caab, which explores the history of the valley from the early Khoi pastoralists and San hunter-gatherers, through centuries of slavery and apartheid, to the present day. The museum focuses heavily on the estate, but it's a tale that would have been played out on most of the farms in the area.

Right next door, the Allée Bleue Estate offers another delightful country bistro that’s well away from the hubbub of central Franschhoek. A small, well-chosen chalkboard menu of fresh organic produce is sure to keep locavores happy, while the striking Mediterranean décor works well on grey wintry days. Wine tasting is available right next door and, situated at the entrance to the Valley, is perhaps a good spot to start your winery wanderings.

The Valley produces outstanding Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Shiraz and there are a number of estates worth visiting (grab a handy map of the wine route free from any winery). L’Ormarins makes some exceptional Bordeaux blends, and should be your first stop. The estate is also home to the Franschhoek Motor Museum, part of the private car collection of industrial magnate Johann Rupert. Eighty of Rupert’s 200-car collection are on display at any one time, and include legendary wheels like South Africa’s first Model-T Ford, and an insanely expensive Ferrari Enzo.

A succession of wineries dot the road into town, and the chic modern tasting room of Graham Beck Wines is certainly worth visiting for a taste of cellar master Pieter Ferreira’s méthode cap classique. Even Barack Obama is a fan, ordering a case for his inauguration party!

A little further on, La Motte makes serious wines and has just released their maiden bubbly to complement a wide range of big-hitting reds and balanced whites. Just before the village, hang a left up the hill for a stop at Chamonix. Gottfried Mocke makes some of the best wine in the Valley, and the farm’s cosy blacksmith’s cottage is a wonderful wintry spot to taste your way through his range. Don’t miss the award-winning chardonnay.

Franschhoek wineries are usually open throughout the day (some closed on Sundays) allowing you to meander at will, but do make sure you arrive at Haute Cabrière before 10am on a Saturday morning.

‘In vino veritas’, reads the plaque at the cellar door on the Franschhoek Pass – ‘in wine there is truth’ – and that’s thanks in no small part to Achim von Arnim’s deft hand at sabrage; the Napoleonic trick of slicing open a champagne bottle with a sword. The estate’s cellar tours have become legend in Franschhoek, with the gregarious winemaker tasting, talking and entertaining his way through their range of excellent bubbly, pinot noir and chardonnay. Swords and popping corks aside, Matthew Gordon’s acclaimed cellar restaurant next door is as much of a reason to visit, offering some of the best fine dining in town.

In the valley below, at the end of Huguenot Street, the graceful arches of Franschhoek’s Huguenot Monument honour the first farmers to plant vines in this fertile Valley, and symbolise the Holy Trinity the persecuted Protestant farmers held dear. But the arches could just as easily honour the three pillars of modern-day Franschhoek: food, wine and fine living. With such joie de vivre on offer, it’s no surprise that Franschhoek has become synonymous with the best of what the Cape wine lands has to offer. All you have to do is say bonjour…

Franschhoek Wine Valley and Tourist Association
70 Huguenot Road
www.franschhoek.org.za
021 876 3603

First published in Indwe magazine, July 2010

A flash of iridescent blue disappears into the undergrowth, the wild peacock’s luxuriant coat of green providing perfect camouflage even in the dry days of winter. An indignant squawk lets us know that the disturbed fowl with his harem of hens still considers himself in charge here in Bandhavgarh National Park.

Beautiful he may be, but certainly not the king of this jungle. That honour goes to the reason that I and five other guests are jolting along the potholed roads of this park in India’s central Madhya Pradesh province. Panthera tigris tigris. The Bengal Tiger.

South Africa can justifiably lay claim to some of the best wildlife experiences on the planet, but despite being home to the Big Five the striped coat of the Bengal Tiger is something you won’t see in the wild in Africa. With most of the other big cats ticked off my ‘to-see’ list it was time to add one of the world’s rarest animals to the tally.

And when it comes to tiger sightings there are few better places to head for than Bandhavgarh. Situated almost slap-bang in the middle of the sub-continent, the national park is said to have the highest density of Bengal tigers in the world. Once a hunting reserve of the maharajahs, this 105km² reserve traverses a stunning landscape of thick jungle where deer, sambar, sloth bear, leopard and dozens of other species hide in the shadows.

But the word ‘jungle’ is perhaps misleading, suggesting damp and impenetrable Amazonian forests. The hills and valleys of Bandhavgarh are thick and lush, but it is glades of leafy sal trees that blanket the hillsides, while in the north of the park vast grasslands and bamboo forests offer a welcome change of scenery.

In January the monsoons have yet to arrive, and only small streams trickle through the forest to the swampy meadows. Kingfishers and egrets hunt in these boheras, but they are also prime stomping grounds for tigers hoping to catch a Spotted Deer unawares.

But it’s the warning bark of a sambar – a large antelope similar to a waterbuck – that sets our hearts racing one sunset. With the dying rays of the sun turning the boheras auburn, the sentry alerts us to a predator in the grass: the park’s dominant male is on the move. In the boughs above, acrobatic langurs chatter in excitement as they swing from tree to tree to get a better view of the action.

And likewise with the jeeps filled with eager tourists. Where tigers are involved, the national parks of India tend to be over-subscribed, and there are nearly two-dozen vehicles jostling for a view this evening.

The revving engines and chatter of tourists takes away some of the magic of the moment, but the tiger seems entirely unconcerned with either the tourists or the sambar. He wanders slowly along the riverbank, scent-marking his territory
Perhaps he was hoping that feigning disinterest might lull the deer into a false sense of security.

But this evening they’re on full alert, and so the male wanders up a hillside and disappears into the sunset. Which also marks our time to leave. Unlike most reserves in Africa, no visitors are allowed to stay overnight within the tiger reserves of Madhya Pradesh. Permits are issued for morning and afternoon game drives, and all vehicles must exit the park before sunset.

We’ve been lucky this evening, with a lengthy sighting of the park’s most impressive tiger, but I still smile at the billboard that greets visitors as they exit. Alongside a hand-painted image of a tiger, the cheeky apology: “Even if you haven’t seen me, be sure that I’ve seen you.”

On the outskirts of the park, dozens of lodges have sprung up to cater for the tourists that visit Bandhavgarh each day. There are lodges to cater for every pocket, but after a week of travelling rough through India we (well, my wife) decide that it’s time for a few home comforts. Having enjoyed their high quality safaris in Africa, we opt for the &Beyond lodge Mahua Kothi, happily just 10 minutes’ drive from the reserve.

Taking its name from the mahua, or Butter Tree, and the word kothi, for homestead, the lodge certainly feels like a home from home. Just 12 rooms dot the forests surrounding the main lodge, each decorated with the deft touch and down-to-earth luxury typical of &Beyond. Serene courtyards offer day beds for lazy afternoons, while hand-woven textiles and antique brass statues add a sensual touch of exotic India.

Evening meals are shared communally, with guests swopping tales over a fireside drink or a thali of Indian curries. Local chefs may temper the chilli to suit a Western palate, but take pride in preparing dishes from across India. Staff are largely drawn from the local villages, and – despite broken English – delight in sharing their stories. Ask for a slightly spicy masala chai and you’ll be rewarded with a broad smile and their mother’s recipe to take home with you.

A spicy chai is the perfect warming wake-up call for an early-morning game drive in the chill dawn of winter. We have no luck with tigers that morning, but we discover another highlight of Bandhavgarh; its namesake.

The park is named for the mountain that towers above the reserve, a mountain that – according to legend – was given by the Hindu Lord Rama to his brother Lakshmana to keep a watch on Lanka, the island of Ceylon. For time immemorial it has been known simply as Bandhavgarh; Sanskrit for ‘Brother's Fort’.

Primitive caves and rock paintings in the park show that people have lived here for over 2000 years, but it is the impressive ruins on the summit of the peak that delight us on our last day in the reserve.

Few people agree when the fort was built, but the best guess is that it was at least 1000 years ago.  A succession of dynasties ruled from this hilltop eyrie until the mid-1600s, but today just echoes of these peoples remain, with incredible architecture to be seen in the hilltop reservoirs and the intricate Treasury building. The Bandhavdheesh Temple is still a place of worship, with devotees making the long journey (although walking is no longer allowed) to perform puja at this ancient site.

Tiger tracks dot the dusty paths on the summit, and vultures soar on the zephyrs rising from the plains below. Is that a tiger I see stalking in the distant grassland, or just some deer finding safety in numbers? From the rocky summit of Bandhavgarh the plains of Madhya Pradesh stretch out in all directions. I might not be able to see Lanka from up here, but for travellers wary and weary of the crazy, colourful streets of India, this tiger’s eyrie is the perfect escape.

SMART TRAVELLER

• South African passport holders require a visa to visit India on holiday. Visit www.indiainsouthafrica.com for more info.
• Qatar Airways flies daily from South Africa to New Delhi (via Doha), with frequent connections to Khajuraho or Jabalpur, a few hours’ drive from the central tiger reserves. Visit www.qatarairways.com or call 011 523 2928.
• For more information on accommodation, tours and tiger spotting in India, contact &Beyond India on www.andbeyond.com, or email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .

First published in Garden&Home magazine, July 2010