Is it possible to walk past a field of grazing sheep without fighting the inexplicable urge to turn and go ‘baaaaa’ at them?
It’s a question that seems to follow me down the narrow lanes of St. Mary’s, the main island in the impossibly scenic Isles of Scilly. Here the slender roads seem to wander at random, encouraging visitors to wander beside fields where flowers bloom, sheep graze and rabbits skitter between the hedgerows. Fringed by brambles and rambling berries, the maze of footpaths and country lanes is heaven for eco-conscious travellers who’d rather strap on their walking shoes than climb into a tour bus.
But perhaps I’d better sit down on this dry-stone wall and backtrack a few steps.
The ‘Isles of Scilly’ I hear you ask? Yes, yes, the silly puns have all been made before, but I’m dead serious when I say that these idyllic isles are one of the most beautiful corners of the United Kingdom and one that few South Africans tend to visit.
Cast away in the Atlantic Ocean some 45 kilometres from the British mainland, the Isles are a sub-tropical slice of England that’s a world away from the smoggy skies of London, enjoying mild temperatures and more sunshine than anywhere else in the UK.
As any South African who’s worked in London will know, sun is in short supply in England, which is why in the mid-1900s Scilly boomed as the country’s most important flower grower. Today, with flowers jetting in overnight from Kenya, the flower farms lie fallow and just a few small-scale operations dot the roadside, selling cut flowers and the famous narcissus bulbs of Scilly.
Nowadays tourism is the mainstay of the islands and although over 200 chunks of rock make up the Isles, just five of them are inhabited: St. Mary’s, St. Martin’s, Tresco, Bryher and St. Agnes. The rest are left to the elements, under the stewardship of the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust.
Designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) in 1975, almost all of Scilly belongs to Prince Charles – under the Duchy of Cornwall – who rents the uninhabited areas to the Trust for the princely sum of one daffodil per annum. Delightful.
St. Mary’s is the hub of the Scillies; home to the airport, heliport and ferry harbour. The scheduled plane and chopper services will fly you to the mainland in just 20 minutes, while the ferry will take a little longer. Once you arrive, the pace slows down considerably. There are no hire cars available on the islands, so the tinkle of bicycle bells is about all that will disturb walkers in the country lanes.
Well, that and the chatter of bird-song.
“We get some good old gales blowing through here,” smiles Will Wagstaff, local ornithologist and tour guide. “With the wind, we get migratory birds blown off course from as far afield as America, 3000 miles away!”
When he’s not ‘twitching’ further afield Wagstaff leads meandering nature walks across St. Mary’s, introducing visitors to the unique flora and fauna of the island. Edible flowers, arcane insects and – especially – the islands’ rich birdlife are unearthed and explained.
“We even get the Arctic Skua here,” says Will. “They’re always chasing after a share of whatever the other birds have caught. A bit like nature’s taxmen!”
I leave the rambling birders to their lunch break and take a wander down towards Hugh town, the life and soul of St. Mary’s. It’s boatmen, not taxmen I’m interested in.
With so many islands scattered across the unpredictable Atlantic, the islands have a strong sea-faring tradition; a history best explored amongst the ‘gigs’ at The Boatshed on the beachfront.
The 32-foot rowing gigs restored here have been a part of the Isles since the 18th century; a time when ‘ships were made of wood, and men were made of iron!’ Teams of islanders would race the gigs out to passing ships, and the first to reach it won the job of piloting the ship safely into harbour. These fast agile boats were also popular with tobacco and alcohol smugglers, and eventually gigs were banned from having eight oars as the Customs and Excise officers couldn’t catch them!
Wandering along the seafront into town you’ll also pass the bus stop, where ‘Katie’ – a classic touring bus – departs every few hours for tours of the island. St. Mary’s is an island made for walking, but if your dogs are tired you could be forgiven for a few hours of four-wheeled sightseeing.
Hugh Town itself is just a few streets across, but is home to everything a small village needs to look after locals and visitors alike. The bakery in Garrison Lane makes some of the best Cornish pasties you’ll ever taste, while the Mermaid Inn is usually well stocked with a few kegs of ‘Scuppered’ and ‘Firebrand’, brewed locally by the cheekily named Ales of Scilly.
From The Mermaid’s restaurant you can watch the comings and goings of the harbour, where there’s a buzz throughout the day.
The local Boatmen’s Association runs daily scheduled services to the ‘off-islands’, as well as sightseeing tours to uninhabited islands further afield. With your boat schedule in hand and a few quid in your pocket it’s the best spot to start your island-hopping, and you can easily spend the morning wandering across St. Agnes, hop over for lunch on St. Martin’s before ending up back on St. Mary’s for a dinner of fresh local crab at ‘The Galley’.
My destination is the pint-sized island of Tresco though. I throw my bag into the open-top boat and the engines rumble us across the bay. The aquamarine water is what I’d expect to find in the Maldives, and glistening sandbanks betray the tidal races that make these waters so treacherous.
Tresco has all the natural beauty and tranquillity of the other isles, but with one trump card up its sleeve: the Tresco Abbey Gardens.
Hailed as ‘Kew Gardens with the roof off’ the Abbey Gardens were laid out in the early-1800s by Augustus Smith, who would cajole passing ships to give him plants from the four corners of the globe.
By fashioning tall windbreaks he funnelled the howling Atlantic gales up and over his fledgling garden, and built terraces to provide the right conditions for plants from across the planet. Today, over 20 000 species from 80 countries – including South Africa – thrive in this magical mystery garden.
Statues hide around corners, quiet benches beckon you to stay awhile, and Neptune gazes over the garden towards the distant sea. Yes, even in this earthy garden the sea plays its part. The Valhalla Museum is home to a fascinating collection of intricately carved figureheads and historic artefacts from over 60 ships wrecked on the Isles of Scilly in the last 200 years.
The sailors tossed ashore here over the centuries may have found it a windswept, forbidding place, but in the bright autumn sunshine it’s hard to think of a prettier corner of the British Isles. I leave the gardens behind and wander up the western edge of Tresco, hoping for a pint of ‘Scuppered’ in the local pub. With the lights of my hotel twinkling across the channel I can think of few better places to be shipwrecked.
TRAVEL TIPS
- Where to stay: You’ll find plenty of B&Bs and guesthouses on St. Mary’s and the nearby islands. Self-catering accommodation and campsites are also available. I loved the Hell Bay Hotel on Bryher Island; it’s the only hotel on the island with just a handful of rooms, and one of the best restaurants on the Isles. Visit www.hellbay.co.uk.
- Getting there: The easiest way to get to Scilly is to fly on British Airways to London Heathrow, and then take the scenic First Great Western train from London Paddington to Penzance. From Penzance (also worth a few days of exploring) you can fly or take the ferry. Visit www.ba.com and www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk.
- Web: Visit the official Isles of Scilly tourism board website at www.simplyscilly.co.uk.
First published in Garden & Home magazine, April 2010 |
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"Hello Missy Sir! Handbag, copy watch?"
The cries of the street vendors follow me as I push my way through the throng of tourists crowding the ever-popular Temple Street Market in Kowloon. It’s a nightly draw-card for any visitor to Hong Kong and – together with the Ladies Market – is where you come to shop on a budget. A vibrant stew of stalls, restaurant and street performers, where confident bargaining and feigning disinterest in that fake-Fendi will quickly knock a third off the asking price.
Hong Kong is retail Shangri-la, but – as my wife will sadly admit – I am not a shopper. I am, however, a committed diner; and in a city that boasts over 11 000 restaurants it looks like I’ve got my work cut out for me.
It may sound daunting, but if you need guidance on your culinary adventure stop in at Kowloon’s Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin temple; famous for its fortune-tellers who will explain — through the telling of a fable — what your future holds. For me, a steamer or three of dim sum invariably looms large.
The kitchens of Hong Kong offer cuisine from across China, but these humble dumplings – usually served at breakfast or lunch – are far and away the favoured snack in the home of Cantonese cuisine.
For an easy introduction into the world of dim sum, head across Victoria Harbour to the suburb of Central on Hong Kong Island. The Star Ferry is the best way to get across the world-famous waterway, and a one-way coupon costs just HK$3. Make your way to the glitzy Times Square shopping mall, where you’ll find hundreds of happily munching diners at Super Star Restaurant. Through the glass-walled kitchen there’s an army of chefs steaming up the windows as they create heaven in a bamboo basket.
Super Star is also known for taking a comic look at this Cantonese treat, so don't be surprised if your Shrimp Dumpling comes out in the shape of Nemo. If you’re smitten, the branch in Tsim Tsha Tsui will even teach you the basics in a fun one-hour dim sum cooking course where you get to devour your ‘masterpieces’ afterwards.
If you’re after something more authentic, wander up the steep streets of Central to the rough-and-tumble Lan Fong Yuen for your baptism by fire into the frenetic communal tables of Hong Kong dining.
Little has changed since it opened in the 1920s: steamers full of freshly-made dim sum trundle through the restaurant on creaky trolleys, only to be whipped away by hungry diners. You’ll need to be quick to get your hands on the popular har gau pork dumplings, and don’t forget to let the trolley-pusher stamp your ticket with what you’ve taken.
Yum cha just wouldn’t be the same without a pot of aromatic green or jasmine tea, which usually arrives unbidden. When the tea runs out just leave the lid off to signal to the waiter that you need a top-up of boiling water. The leaves are good for at least five or six pots, so don't order a fresh pot each time. If you want to bring leaves home with you you’ll find excellent tea shops throughout Hong Kong, many of which offer guided tea tastings.
Out the door and across Gage Street, fill in the gaps with a freshly baked egg tart from Tai Cheong Bakery. A favourite stop for Chris Patten, the last British governor of Hong Kong, the flaky tarts with custard filling are rich, decadent and delicious. Enjoy one while you wander along to the historic Man Mo Temple, where clouds of fragrant incense billow out onto the street.
If it’s temples you’re after, hop on the MTR subway train to Tung Chung and grab a gondola on the Ngong Ping 360. The 5.7-kilometre cableway glides you gently up to the serene Po Lin Monastery. Here a 268-step climb leads you to, if not enlightenment itself, at least the foot of the world's largest outdoor seated Buddha. If you’re feeling peckish, the monastery offers a set-menu vegetarian lunch that’s easy on the pocket.
From Po Lin you can follow the winding road down to the long and laid-back Cheung Sha Beach for a swim. It's also not far to the tumbledown fishing village of Tai O, a rare surviving example of a traditional Chinese stilt-village built over the waters of the South China Sea.
By this time the sun will be heading westwards, and when darkness falls there’s only one place in town to see the remarkable cityscape; from the top of the famous Victoria Peak.
The Peak Tram runs from Central every 10 minutes, offering one of the most memorable views on earth as it scales the impossibly steep hills en route to the top. At the summit, the Peak Tower offers magnificent views of Hong Kong Island and across to Kowloon.
Feeling peckish again? Once you’ve soaked up the city lights it’s time to find some dinner. The tourist complex at The Peak has a range of restaurants with spectacular city views, but although they’re ideal for romantic dinners in most cases you’ll be paying a premium for forgettable food.
Rather head back into Central, to the famous Yung Kee Restaurant in Wellington Street.
Yung Kee’s signature Roast Goose has been drawing diners since 1942, when Mr. Kam Shui Fai's 'restaurant' was a humble cooked food stall in Kwong Yuen West Street. Today though it’s a regular stop for local celebrities and tourists in the know and while the dish that made him famous is the main draw card, the menu offers other Chinese delicacies for the daring diner.
Alvin Yeung Jr., on the other hand, is a man getting daring in the kitchen.
Sweeping aside age-old taboos, Leung has brought molecular gastronomy to Asia with his 'X-treme Chinese Cuisine'. Using his degree in science to the full, Leung’s menu follows the trail blazed by Heston Blumenthal and Ferran Adrià, picking apart the flavours of Chinese cooking and reassembling them in an unrecognisable, yet strangely familiar, form. The 'Chef's Menu' at his restaurant – Bo Innovation – doesn't come cheap, but for a gourmet adventure it's worth every well-spent dollar.
Another reliable bet is the tiny ‘Alcove’, clinging to the top of Peel Street in Central. Here the menu changes daily and the emphasis is on personal attention and an innovative look at classic Chinese dishes. Stir-fried Green Beans, Chinese Kale with Garlic Sauce and Scrambled Egg with Crab Meat are all favourites dished up with immaculate attention to detail. Dark wood panelling, jazz in the background and eclectic décor make this a far cry from the typically bright-and-brash Chinese restaurant, and the perfect romantic hideaway amongst the Hong Kong skyscrapers.
It’s just one of the many kitchens in Hong Kong offering up a mouth-watering range of dishes from all over China. Wandering down the streets of Central, my ‘shopping list’ of restaurants at the ready, I realise it’s no surprise why this city is known as the ‘fragrant harbour’. Despite three trips in four years, I’m still hungry to taste more of Hong Kong.
Travel Advisory
- The Hong Kong Tourism Board has an excellent website to help you plan your trip. Go to www.discoverhongkong.com.
- South African passport-holders do not require a visa for visits less than 30 days
- The Hong Kong Dollar (HKD) is roughly equal to the South African Rand.
- F&HE travelled to Hong Kong with Flight Centre, Cathay Pacific and the Hong Kong Tourism Board. To book a trip to this fabulous Far East destination contact Flight Centre on 0860 400 747 or visit www.flightcentre.co.za.
First published in Food&Home Entertaining magazine, March 2010
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It’s a long and winding road that leads us through the Golden Gate. From the gently rolling hills of KwaZulu-Natal we’ve wended our way around Sterkfontein Dam and up into the foothills of the Maluti Mountains. The ancient San people called these lonely valleys ‘QwaQwa’; ‘whiter than white,’ for the snow-capped peaks of what is today the Ukhahlamba-Drakensberg National Park; a World Heritage Site.
We leave the Drakensberg behind through and head up into the Golden Gate Highlands National Park, where jagged sandstone outcrops guard the narrow valleys. It’s an easy route for self-drive touring as the tarred R712 runs effortlessly through the park, but if you have time on your hands there are wonderful scenic drives to explore. If you want to stretch your legs, these grassy hills also offer spectacular walks ranging from 45-minute meanders to strenuous two-day trails. Ask for a map at the reserve office.
“But it’s a National Park,” I hear you say. “Won’t it be dangerous?”
Not at all… the unique landscape is what’s being conserved here and you won’t find any of the Big Five in the Park. That said; keep your binoculars handy, as the Park is home to a variety of antelope as well as colonies of the rare Bearded and Cape Vultures.
If you’re staying in the Park, or perhaps in nearby Clarens, it’s well worth visiting the Golden Gate at sunset. Pack a few sundowner snacks in a picnic basket, chill a bottle of South African chardonnay and find a quiet spot to watch the waning sun set fire to the sandstone cliffs.
Clarens, 17 kilometres from the park, has become a popular tourist spot in this corner of the Free State; an artists’ enclave where stressed-out city folk from Gauteng come to slow down for a few days. Some slow down so much they never leave, and end up running one of the town’s many restaurants, B&Bs and craft shops. The village is also famous for its art, and boasts over a dozen galleries showcasing local and national artists.
If wandering through a gallery sounds a little tame stop in at Mountain Odyssey Tourism, the specialists in all things outdoors. There’s quad biking in the surrounding hills, horse riding, hot-air ballooning and river-rafting to enjoy. The area is also popular with fly-fishermen, and there are well-stocked dams and rivers to cast a line in.
Clarens can get crowded during holiday season and at weekends, so if you’re looking for a little more space you should simply make a date with Destiny.
What started out as a businessman’s folly that lay in ruins for years has been transformed into one of the country’s most delightful small hotels: Destiny Castle, just half-an-hour from Clarens.
Built out of local sandstone high on a plateau, the Castle blends almost seamlessly into the surrounding landscape; just a ripple on the waves of rock that flow around these lush valleys carpeted with lucerne fields.
Heavy wooden doors – carved with the Destiny Castle motto: “Love-Risk-Persevere” – swing aside to reveal a sheltered courtyard beneath bright blue skies. To the left, carefully tended rose bushes and a gurgling fountain welcome us to a second courtyard leading onto the four bedrooms, thoughtfully set apart from the main castle. The flagstones radiate heat in the early summer sun, but the thick walls of stone ensure that indoors the rooms remain blissfully cool.
The Gothic-style bedrooms are wonderfully over-the-top, with just enough dramatic flourishes to ensure a memorable stay without falling into kitsch. In each room a grand four-poster bed has pride of place, leading onto a small lounge and then valley views beyond. About the only hiccup is the open-plan bathroom, which may not be to everyone’s taste.
By the fireplace, deep leather armchairs tempt you to spend afternoons with that long-awaited book; or enjoy quality time simply gazing out at the horizon, enjoying the silence. Rates at Destiny Castle are all-inclusive, so make yourself at home and celebrate your escape act with a glass of wine.
With just four bedrooms Destiny Castle is ideal for secluded holidays with family and friends, or intimate celebrations in style. While the bedrooms are all in one wing of the Castle, the three-storey main turret is where you’ll spend much of your time.
A grand ground-floor dining room turns meals into an occasion, especially at dinner when a seven-course feast awaits. Wine racks set into the two-metre thick walls hold a good selection of Cape vineyards, and guests are encouraged to browse and select a bottle. Crystal glasses and silver service set the tone for the grand European-style cuisine from the kitchen of chef Urs Nydegger.
In the floors above the dining room you’ll find a private cinema and top-floor lounge to while away lazy afternoons. On the walls, portraits of Jan Smuts and Emily Hobhouse look down; a nod to the Anglo-Boer War history that you’ll find in the surrounding hills. There are also exceptional San rock art paintings to explore nearby, if you like your art a little more ancient.
But the highlight of Destiny Castle is surely the stone turret’s rooftop deck, a crenulated lookout offering spectacular views over the surrounding countryside and away to the distant mountains of the land-locked kingdom of Lesotho.
It’s a fabulous sundowners spot any day of the week, and when the weather plays ball you can even enjoy a gourmet barbecue beneath the Milky Way. The distant lights of small towns may shine in the distance, but otherwise it feels like you have this undiscovered corner of South Africa all to yourself. The road here has been long, and the night is warm, so sit back and savour the moment… remember, it’s your Destiny.
Travel advisory:
Destiny Castle provides all-inclusive accommodation for a maximum of eight guests. Rates breakfast, lunch, a 7-course dinner, drinks (including spirits and champagne), cigars, all activities and use of the spa. For rates, packages and more information, visit www.destinycastle.co.za or call Devlin Fogg on +27 83 799 3003.
First published in the Blue Train magazine; March 2010 |
“Snoooooooooooek! Yeeeeeeeeeeeeellowtail! Lekker fresh Snoek!”
It’s a typical morning in Kalk Bay, and the southeaster is blowing briskly across the deep blue waters of False Bay as the small harbour’s fishing fleet makes its way in past the breakwater. The fish sellers bustle at their stalls, chattering away in Afrikaans as they get ready to lay out the day’s catch for the colourful mix of tourists and locals who flock here in the warm days of late summer.
A man with prison tattoos and a bloodied knife tucked into his belt calls out from behind a spread of fish great and small.
“Hello Meneer. What are you looking for today… snoek? Yellowtail? Maybe some Red Roman?”
Today, I’m just here to look, but in summer the snoek is king on the quayside of Kalk Bay.
These razor-toothed fish – similar, but unrelated, to barracuda – are still caught by hand using thick line and sturdy hooks, and when the shoals are running you can get a sizeable snoek for under R40.
There’s been a fishing harbour here for over a century, and Kalk Bay is still a bit of a rough diamond. It’s a place where fishing comes first and the tourists follow; where the sturdy wooden boats – little changed for generations – are drawn up on the slip for repairs and a fresh lick of paint. Stay out of the way when the boats are offloading or you might just get whacked with a wet fish!
This ‘Cinderella harbour’ may not have the glamorous frills of its Table Bay stepsister, the V&A Waterfront, but invariably it’s Kalk Bay that visitors fall in love with. It’s a harbour that plays hard-to-get, but visitors simply can’t resist coming back. In the last decade the once-bohemian village has thrown off its tie-dyed image and become a chic corner of the southern peninsula.
Owner-run restaurants dish-up just-landed seafood and trendy coffee bars sit cheek by jowl with antique/décor shops and artisanal bakeries. The seaside Brass Bell is a perennial favourite with students and sandal-wearing surfers, while the nearby Ché Bar makes some of the best mojitos in town… with a view of the harbour to boot. Olympia Café is bursting at the seams for Sunday morning breakfasts, while kerbside Sirocco is a great spot for al fresco summer lunches.
It’s all in delightful contrast to the harbour, where the language is as colourful as the boats. Wander along the breakwater to get your bearings: the village climbing up the slopes of Kalk Bay Mountain to the scenic Boyes Drive, while out to sea Cape Hangklip and Cape Point gaze at each other across 35-kilometres of ocean.
Every day, come rain or shine, you’ll find fishermen on the harbour wall casting their lines and muttering their prayers. As the tide ebbs a shift change happens and, to steal a phrase from John Steinbeck, the fishermen who believe that the fish bite at high tide leave and are replaced by those convinced the fish bite on the low.
Luckily there is always fish on offer at the restaurants clustered behind the breakwater. Kalky’s is a Kalk Bay institution, a no-nonsense take-away that’s been here forever. It’s paper plates and plastic cutlery all the way, but for your R34 you’ll struggle to find better fish ‘n chips in Cape Town.
For something with a little more finesse, the cluster of restaurants overlooking the breakwater offers something for slightly deeper pockets. Live Bait is a colourful laid-back option ideal for family lunches and relaxed dinners. Next door, the picture windows of Polana peel back just metres from the sea offering one of the best sundowners spots in Cape Town. Even if it does face east! Upstairs, Harbour House has become a False Bay favourite; offering refined dining with jaw-dropping views of the Bay. Fresh seafood is the star here; with fish landed daily from the restaurant’s own boat.
If you fancy fishing for your supper, Simon’s Town across the Bay is home to a handful of charter boats that will take you out hunting in the big blue. Try Hooked on Africa for trolling the deep off Cape Point. Even if the fish aren’t biting, a day out on the bright blue ocean offers the chance to watch Albatross dancing on the winds, Killer whales on the hunt and Dusky dolphins at play.
A haven for men of the sea
Simon’s Town has long been a haven for men of the sea. The English based their Royal Navy here when they took over the Cape colony in 1806, and it’s retained its quaint English seaside feel ever since. Today, it’s the homeport of the South African Navy’s sleek frigates and submarines.
The Simon's Town Museum is a fairly dry look at the town’s growth through the centuries and is best left for history buffs, but the South African Naval Museum next door is more family-friendly with its collection of navy memorabilia.
Wander along into town, leaving some time to browse the intriguing antique shops along the way. Your feet will eventually lead you to Jubilee Square, where you can ‘meet’ the village’s most famous resident. Able Seaman Just Nuisance was one of the few dogs ever enlisted in the Royal Navy, and a statue of this much-loved Great Dane is waiting to be patted in the Square. If you have time, you can also visit the faithful hound’s final resting place at the Military Signals School above town.
‘Nuisance’ was known for his healthy appetite, so perhaps it’s no surprise that the town has some wonderful eating options. Bertha’s on the waterfront is a good bet for upmarket pub grub, while neighbouring Just Sushi has some of the best sushi in the south.
The harbour front is always bustling here, and there are a number of ways to get up close to the water. Kayak Cape Town runs daily two-hour tours on stable kayaks that are perfect for beginners. Tours usually take in the colony of 3000 African Penguins at nearby Boulders Beach, allowing you to avoid the crowds by arriving like the penguins do… by water!
To stay a little drier, the Simon’s Town Boat Company offers from high-speed runs down to Cape Point, whale-watching excursions and cruises over to Seal Island. The popular harbour cruise on the ‘Spirit of Just Nuisance’ is a wonderful way to see Simon’s Town from the water and discover the town’s naval history.
On the outskirts of town The Old Burying Ground, established in 1814, also tells the chequered history of this harbour. Over 550 sailors lie buried here in the Garden of Remembrance, many of whom were barely into their teens. Keep a careful eye out for the graves of Boer War POWs, Italian stonemasons and Russian seamen… all of whom arrived in this picturesque port and never left.
Sooner or later you’ll have to leave though, and as the last rays of sun poke through into the Bay it’s time to head back to my car at Kalk Bay. The scenic train ride along the coast is an excellent option, but as the sea is calm I decide to hop on the ‘Mellow Yellow Water Taxi’. With shuttles across to Kalk Bay harbour running every 30 minutes, with the chance to see whales en route in season, it’s a fabulous end to a day in this bay of plenty.
As we motor gently into the harbour there’s a trickle of tardy tourists grabbing a late snoek for dinner. Ah, what the hell, I might as well tell you about that baste. Here’s my recipe for the perfect snoek braai. Enjoy.
Braai the perfect snoek!
- Ask the fish-sellers to clean and ‘butterfly’ the snoek, with the head off.
- At home, liberally salt the fish and leave in the fridge for two hours. When ready to braai, rinse off the salt and pat the fish dry with kitchen towel.
- Prepare a bed of medium-hot coals, spread out to provide even heat across the fish.
- While the fire is burning down, prepare a traditional West Coast baste of equal parts (four tablespoons of each) melted garlic butter, mayonnaise and smooth apricot jam. Mix together well.
- When the coals are ready, line one side of a folding grid with thick cut raw onion rings. Place snoek skin side down on the onion rings, and grill for about 12 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish. Baste the fish two or three times while grilling… be generous with the baste!
- When the flesh starts to turn opaque, give it one last baste and flip it over to grill skin side up. Consider lowering the grid to brown the flesh nicely.
- Grill for about another five minutes. When the fish is white all the way through and comes away from the skin easily it’s ready to eat.
- Serve with sweet potatoes, salad and a good South African chardonnay!
First published in Indwe Magazine, the in-flight magazine of SA Express, March 2010 |
I’m not really a big-city person; give me a pebbled path over packed pavement any day. I’d rather be immersed in the great outdoors than cheek-by-jowl in the urban jungle. But New York? Well, this is a city that combines the best of both.
It may be home to a few million people, but thankfully the island of Manhattan is about more than skyscrapers and subway rides. Since Central Park was first laid out in 1876 the city planners have ensured that New Yawkers have some of the world’s best urban parks to relax, picnic, jog, cycle and sweat in.
Which is just as well, because after a few days in the maelstrom of Times Square and the busy streets of the Lower East Side, I’m about ready to discover a little greenery.
New York is a city of walkers, and whether I was ambling along the Highline or sweating it out with the speed walkers in Central Park, I was never short of company. Even on a crisp autumn morning in Battery Park the locals were out in force. Whether you visit in leafy summer or skeletal winter, the wooded pathways of this park on the tip of Manhattan make up one of the city’s loveliest open spaces.
Out across the Hudson River the Statue of Liberty, a gift from the people of France, glistens in the choppy harbour waters. Since 1886 she has welcomed visitors and immigrants, millions of whom entered the USA through nearby Ellis Island. If you don’t want to fork out for a ticket, hop on the free Staten Island ferry from the eastern edge of Battery Park for a great close-up view of the Statue. She’s smaller, but more beautiful, than you expect.
Battery Park blends seamlessly into the riverside promenade of Battery Park City, an enormous strip of reclaimed land created by soil dug for the foundations of the Twin Towers. Gleaming office and apartment blocks tower over a broad, leafy promenade where joggers, cyclists and roller-bladers enjoy a world away from the bustle of Manhattan.
After 30 minutes walking the greenery runs out though, and you’ll need to brave the crowds for a subway ride uptown to Greenwich Village. A single subway trip costs $2.25, so it’s usually cheaper to buy an unlimited-use Metro card for 24-hours ($8.50) or seven days ($27).
Take the A-train up to 4th Street where you’ll find the delightful Washington Square; the first of four wonderful parks in central Manhattan that you’d miss out on if you weren’t exploring the city on foot.
When the sun comes out the Square bursts into life as chess-players do battle at the board-tables, buskers unclip instrument cases and tourists snap away at the Memorial Arch framing the Empire State Building. Take a turn past the Greek Revival townhouses on the park’s northern edge; the reclusive artist Edward Hopper once lived and worked at #3 Washington Square North, while the apartment at #11 was the setting for Will Smith’s apocalyptic ‘I Am Legend’.
Make your way through the bustle of college students and go seven blocks – at a brisk walk it’ll take about 10 minutes – up University Place to Union Square. The park pales in comparison to Washington Square, but redeems itself with the city’s finest farmers’ market.
Small-scale producers from across New York State set up shop four days a week (Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat) from 8am-6pm with gourmet offerings like hot apple cider, fresh breads, artisanal cheese, fruit and farm produce. It’s a great spot to stock up if you’re self-catering, or to whip together a picnic.
If you feel like throwing your low-fat diet to the wind, sneak up to the legendary Shake Shack on the leafy lanes of Madison Square a few blocks north. On sunny days you could spend over 30 minutes in the queue for a ShackBurger and hand-spun shake, but locals swear it’s worth the wait. Besides, you’ll walk off the calories in no time, so splurge on what is easily the best burger in the city.
If you need proof about what walking can do for your figure, just take a look at the locals striding past you. New Yorkers are the exception that proves the rule about Americans being unfit and overweight. The streets may be jammed with traffic, but the sidewalks are equally crammed with locals using leg power to get around.
After all, this is a city made for walking and if you’re stuck in an underground subway or a gridlocked taxi you’ll miss out on half the highlights.
Highlights like the famous Flatiron Building on the corner of Broadway and Fifth. Built in 1902, it was the city’s first skyscraper at a towering 20 stories! Your legs may be tiring as you stride up Fifth Avenue towards Bryant Park, but crane your neck and gaze upwards for an energizing view of the Empire State Building. It’s a must-do attraction, but keep walking for now – it’s best to visit mid-morning to avoid the long queues. 
After 25 minutes of sidewalk dodgems you’ll stumble into Bryant Park, the glamorous green lung in the heart of Manhattan. Well-funded by corporate donations, the free classical concerts and film festivals draw the crowds here in summer. Beyond the park’s elegant row of oaks you’ll find the neo-classical New York Public Library, which is worth a quick visit to admire the frescoed Rose Reading Room that stretches two city blocks.
If architecture’s your thing, the famous Radiator Building is to the south of the park and lofty Grand Central Terminal is just two blocks away. There’s a free tour Wednesdays at 12.30pm.
But enough of the city already! It’s been a few hours hard walking and countless blocks of pavement, and it’s time to find some more parkland. Across town in Chelsea – a brisk 45-minute walk away – a rusty elevated railway that once carried freight from the Hudson River to the Meatpacking District has been transformed into the sleek Highline Park.
Running from West 20th Street south to Gansevoort, the elevated Highline Park allows joggers and walkers (no cyclists allowed) to cover 20 blocks of the city without battling the pavements. Minimalist benches (and even sun loungers) are moulded into the concrete pathways that wind through beds planted with indigenous grasses and hardy shrubs. It’s got all the style of Scandinavia with the grittiness of New York City.
Quite unlike rambling Central Park – a short ride away on the ‘A’ train – which feels a world away from the urban jungle. Covering 840 acres of prime Manhattan real estate that’s said to be worth over $500-billion, Central Park is worth every penny to New Yorkers who flock to the shady glades, open fields and jogging tracks to escape their high-rise apartments.
The massive park is almost impossible to cover in a single visit, so if you’re short on time it’s best to choose what you want to see. The park is divided roughly in two by The Reservoir, and while the northern park has a wilder feel and is a good spot to avoid the crowds, most of the best attractions are down south.
Seemingly fenced in by skyscrapers, the lush Sheep Meadow was home to a flock of its namesake until 1934, but is today the ideal place to toss a Frisbee or lay out your picnic.
It’s also a good spot to start your wanderings. Keep to the Western edge and you can pay homage to John Lennon at ‘Strawberry Fields’, which is opposite the Dakota building where he was shot in 1980. There are normally buskers ignoring the signs and strumming ‘Imagine’ for tips.
To the north, ‘The Lake’ is a popular spot for couples to get romantic with a lazy (and usually circular) glide across the water in a rowing boat. From the Loeb Boathouse (home to an excellent, but pricey restaurant) myriad paths criss-cross the delightful attractions of the Park.
And the same goes for much of New York. Paths and roads lead you into undiscovered corners and hidden surprises so ignore the bright yellow taxis and keep your subway card for emergencies… the only way to really get a feel for New York City is to hit the streets.
Smart traveller:
- Direct flights to the United States will shave a few hours off your travel time, but can be expensive. Shape Magazine flew via Abu Dhabi on Etihad Airways, and although the journey is a little longer you’ll save a pocket of Rands to spend while you’re there. Visit www.etihadairways.com or call 0800 98 2363.
- A self-catering apartment is a great way to live like a local, and save a few dollars. We loved the spacious rooms of the Hotel Beacon on the Upper West Side, which is right across from the bountiful Fairway Market. . Another good option is the trendy AKA, which has hotel-apartments near Central Park and Times Square.
- Request a visit with a Big Apple Greeter, where a volunteer local will help you find your feet. Visits, which last 2-4 hours, are free of charge. Find out more on www.bigapplegreeter.org.
- Buy a New York Citypass for $79 for entrance to six of the city’s top attractions. You’ll get to skip the ticket queues, and save 40% on the usual admission fee.
- Plan your visit at www.nycgo.com.
First published in Shape magazine, March 2010 |
With a clickety-clack and sea-spray on the windows you'll soon see why the Muizenberg-Simon's Town train journey is one of the best in the country.
Long-board or latté?
Get set for your journey at Knead Bakery in Muizenberg, who make great pastries and even better coffee. If you're feeling adventurous wriggle into a wetsuit and hit the waves with Roxy's Surf School who will have you hanging ten in no time.
Slat my dood
"Slat my dood met 'n pap snoek!" is a classic Cape saying, but you won't find any pap snoek at Kalk Bay Harbour… just the fresh smack of the sea as the boats come in. It's a bit smelly to stash a Stumpnose in your bag for the day, so head to Kalky's on the dock for a great portion of snoek 'n tjips.
Do you speak whale?
By now the first Southern Right whales have just started arriving in False Bay, so hop off at Fish Hoek and stroll the kilometre-long Jager Walk to Sunny Cove for a bit of whale-watching. Pack a flask of coffee, grab a bench and read up about these annual visitors on the informative signboards.
The dock of the bay
Simon's Town is the home of the SA Navy and those great, grey warships certainly look like they mean business. You can get up close and personal with them on an entertaining harbour cruise with the Simon's Town Boat Company. Visit www.boatcompany.co.za.
Take a shortcut
Instead of heading back on the train, take a shortcut to Kalk Bay with the Mellow Yellow Water Taxi. It runs (weather permitting) every hour on the hour from the Simon's Town public jetty, and costs R100 one-way. If you're lucky you'll even meet some whales on the way!
First published in Juice; the in-flight magazine of Mango airlines. February 2010. |
Tue 16 Feb 2010 |
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Kinks and knots at Karkloof |
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“The hills are grass covered and rolling, and they are lovely beyond any singing of it… the grass is rich and matted, you cannot see the soil. It holds the rain and mist, and they seep into the ground, feeding the streams in every kloof.”
Alan Paton may have penned these words about the hills of Ixopo, but the great author may just as easily have been writing about the lush Karkloof valley. Paton was born in Pietermaritzburg, just 25 kilometres away, and he certainly would have smiled at the sight of these verdant hills. Up on the hillside a herd of Cape buffalo grazes quietly, keeping to themselves. The reserve is home to a disease-free breeding project for these lumbering animals that are infamous for their bad temper. Higher up, a journey of giraffes nibble their way around the thorns of the plentiful Paper-Bark Acacias; while zebra and wildebeest make the most of the long summer grass.
It’s the view that I’m soaking up from the Tranquillity Lounge at Karkloof Spa, one of the largest destination spa resorts in Africa and one of just a handful that throws a wildlife experience into the mix. But first and foremost it’s all about the spa; and in this case it’s a spa built on superlatives. 17 treatment rooms, highly-trained therapists flown in from across the globe, the best equipment, a range of hydrotherapy options, the finest organic therapy products, foot-rubs from David Beckham on request. OK, I made that last one up, but you get the idea.
The spa is divided into distinct areas, with wooden walkways and thoughtfully landscaped gardens leading you into treatment rooms custom-designed for specific therapies. The five rooms of the ‘Wetlands’ area include a hydro-bath and couple’s room, a popular facility that’s also found in the ‘Forest’ section used for general massage therapies. Wander past the ‘Savannah Plains’ and Tranquillity Lounge to head down to the highlight of Karkloof; the Thai Sala, with its outstanding valley views. If you love to spa, you’ll think you’ve died and gone to heaven.
I, on the other hand, am a bit of a spa newbie. I’m also not very good at wrapping my leg around my neck. No matter, that’s what Kong is for.
When it comes to massage it's hard to beat the traditional Thai method, and you’re safe in the arms of Kong. With hands as strong as his demeanour is gentle, and the flexibility of Angelina Jolie on a good Tomb Raider day, Kong is perhaps the best Thai masseuse west of Chiang Mai, his hometown in northern Thailand.
One of six Thai massage therapists hand-picked for the Karkloof Spa, he’s an expert at
twisting, contorting and cracking every joint in your body. Including a few you didn’t even know you had! While some may consider this cruel and unusual punishment, you’ll float out of the serene massage studio with a smile stretched across your face and joints so loose you’ll feel like a marionette.
Which is how I find myself, 30-minutes post-Kong, in a happy stupor gazing out over the valley. Later, perhaps I’ll unleash my metrosexual side and try a pedicure. Or maybe a session in the Moroccan-themed Rassoul Chamber before a dip in the hot/cold Kneipp pools to get the circulation going. Tomorrow, I see a signature ‘spa journey’ in my future.
But there's more to Karkloof than the spa. Beyond these eco-friendly confines there’s a 3500ha reserve to explore, stocked with animals great and small from rhino to warthog and almost everything in between. Usefully though, it’s divided into two sections; the big dangerous stuff with horns and claws are kept securely on one side, allowing you to wander at will on the other.
"...there’s certainly no need to rush. .."
Morning and afternoon game drives with experienced rangers lead you into the ‘wilder’ section of the reserve, and although first-time safari-goers may find it a little tame there’s still a wonderful range of game to discover. About the only thing you won't find here are elephant and big cats, but if you put the cameras away, leave the bincoculars in their pouch and stop ticking birds off the sighting list you’ll soon start to feel the magic.
Chuckle at the officious warthog family darting under the zebra, spend a while gazing at the pattern on a giraffe’s rump or learn why the wildebeest is the ‘spare parts’ shop of the African bush. Perhaps best of all, unlike at many of the Big Five reserves there are no competing game vehicles jostling for a sighting before tearing off in a swirl of dust. Slowing down is what getaways like this are all about, and at Karkloof there’s certainly no need to rush.
You can take it even slower in the other half of the reserve which is fenced off to be safely free of rhino and buffalo, but can’t keep out the wily antelope and warthog. It’s here that you’ll find the spa and lodge, which means you can wander around freely without keeping an eye open for a grumpy two-ton resident.
There are a range of walking trails to discover, or hop on one of the lodge’s mountain bikes to explore the far corners of the reserve. Grassy glades and deserted dirt-tracks are a highlight in themselves, but the reserve is also home to a rather more boisterous attraction. Secreted away in a quiet corner, the 105-metre Karkloof Falls is one of South Africa's tallest waterfalls and well worth a visit. A wooden walkway has been built over the slippery sandstone boulders allowing you close enough to be drenched by the spray.
At the end of a day filled with spa and safari, there are few better places to watch the sun go down than the private deck of your luxury villa. There are just 16 villas on the property, each striking the perfect balance of being luxurious but not pretentious. A delicate blend melds contemporary décor with a touch of African style, while moody wildlife photos hint at what lies beyond the fence-line. All the mod cons are in place, but you’ll probably be just as happy sinking into an armchair on the balcony and listening to the birdsong.
Once you’ve wallowed in your over-sized bath, dinner awaits, and meals are a stylish affair served in the main lodge. As with the rooms, it’s glamorous yet down-to-earth. More moody wildlife photos, offset by a crystal chandelier. Crackling fires in the stone hearth make you want to curl up with a good book, while the well-stocked wine cellar offers some of South Africa’s best vintages.
Meals are an occasion to be savoured at Karkloof, with both indulgent and healthy options available for each course allowing you to indulge or detox as you see fit. 'What you want, when you want' is the name of the game and the ever-friendly staff ensure that no request is too much trouble.
Trouble. It’s about the farthest thing from my mind as I slip in and out of a blissful doze in the Tranquillity Room, deciding between the Rassoul and the pedicure. Oh heck, perhaps I’ll just have both. Being a little indulgent is what places like Karkloof are all about.
Visit www.karkloofspa.com to find out more, or call 033 569 1321. You can also email
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First published in Indwe, the in-flight magazine of SA Express; February 2010
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Or just a sign of commercialism heading south? Refuse to shop at Melissa's nowadays: overpriced and average