17 Mar |
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It’s a typical morning in Kalk Bay, and the southeaster is blowing briskly across the deep blue waters of False Bay as the small harbour’s fishing fleet makes its way in past the breakwater. The fish sellers bustle at their stalls, chattering away in Afrikaans as they get ready to lay out the day’s catch for the colourful mix of tourists and locals who flock here in the warm days of late summer.  A man with prison tattoos and a bloodied knife tucked into his belt calls out from behind a spread of fish great and small. “Hello Meneer. What are you looking for today… snoek? Yellowtail? Maybe some Red Roman?” Today, I’m just here to look, but in summer the snoek is king on the quayside of Kalk Bay. These razor-toothed fish – similar, but unrelated, to barracuda – are still caught by hand using thick line and sturdy hooks, and when the shoals are running you can get a sizeable snoek for under R40. There’s been a fishing harbour here for over a century, and Kalk Bay is still a bit of a rough diamond. It’s a place where fishing comes first and the tourists follow; where the sturdy wooden boats – little changed for generations – are drawn up on the slip for repairs and a fresh lick of paint. Stay out of the way when the boats are offloading or you might just get whacked with a wet fish! This ‘Cinderella harbour’ may not have the glamorous frills of its Table Bay stepsister, the V&A Waterfront, but invariably it’s Kalk Bay that visitors fall in love with. It’s a harbour that plays hard-to-get, but visitors simply can’t resist coming back. In the last decade the once-bohemian village has thrown off its tie-dyed image and become a chic corner of the southern peninsula. Owner-run restaurants dish-up just-landed seafood and trendy coffee bars sit cheek by jowl with antique/décor shops and artisanal bakeries. The seaside Brass Bell is a perennial favourite with students and sandal-wearing surfers, while the nearby Ché Bar makes some of the best mojitos in town… with a view of the harbour to boot. Olympia Café is bursting at the seams for Sunday morning breakfasts, while kerbside Sirocco is a great spot for al fresco summer lunches. It’s all in delightful contrast to the harbour, where the language is as colourful as the boats. Wander along the breakwater to get your bearings: the village climbing up the slopes of Kalk Bay Mountain to the scenic Boyes Drive, while out to sea Cape Hangklip and Cape Point gaze at each other across 35-kilometres of ocean. Every day, come rain or shine, you’ll find fishermen on the harbour wall casting their lines and muttering their prayers. As the tide ebbs a shift change happens and, to steal a phrase from John Steinbeck, the fishermen who believe that the fish bite at high tide leave and are replaced by those convinced the fish bite on the low. Luckily there is always fish on offer at the restaurants clustered behind the breakwater. Kalky’s is a Kalk Bay institution, a no-nonsense take-away that’s been here forever. It’s paper plates and plastic cutlery all the way, but for your R34 you’ll struggle to find better fish ‘n chips in Cape Town. For something with a little more finesse, the cluster of restaurants overlooking the breakwater offers something for slightly deeper pockets. Live Bait is a colourful laid-back option ideal for family lunches and relaxed dinners. Next door, the picture windows of Polana peel back just metres from the sea offering one of the best sundowners spots in Cape Town. Even if it does face east! Upstairs, Harbour House has become a False Bay favourite; offering refined dining with jaw-dropping views of the Bay. Fresh seafood is the star here; with fish landed daily from the restaurant’s own boat. If you fancy fishing for your supper, Simon’s Town across the Bay is home to a handful of charter boats that will take you out hunting in the big blue. Try Hooked on Africa for trolling the deep off Cape Point. Even if the fish aren’t biting, a day out on the bright blue ocean offers the chance to watch Albatross dancing on the winds, Killer whales on the hunt and Dusky dolphins at play. A haven for men of the sea Simon’s Town has long been a haven for men of the sea. The English based their Royal Navy here when they took over the Cape colony in 1806, and it’s retained its quaint English seaside feel ever since. Today, it’s the homeport of the South African Navy’s sleek frigates and submarines. The Simon's Town Museum is a fairly dry look at the town’s growth through the centuries and is best left for history buffs, but the South African Naval Museum next door is more family-friendly with its collection of navy memorabilia. Wander along into town, leaving some time to browse the intriguing antique shops along the way. Your feet will eventually lead you to Jubilee Square, where you can ‘meet’ the village’s most famous resident. Able Seaman Just Nuisance was one of the few dogs ever enlisted in the Royal Navy, and a statue of this much-loved Great Dane is waiting to be patted in the Square. If you have time, you can also visit the faithful hound’s final resting place at the Military Signals School above town.  ‘Nuisance’ was known for his healthy appetite, so perhaps it’s no surprise that the town has some wonderful eating options. Bertha’s on the waterfront is a good bet for upmarket pub grub, while neighbouring Just Sushi has some of the best sushi in the south. The harbour front is always bustling here, and there are a number of ways to get up close to the water. Kayak Cape Town runs daily two-hour tours on stable kayaks that are perfect for beginners. Tours usually take in the colony of 3000 African Penguins at nearby Boulders Beach, allowing you to avoid the crowds by arriving like the penguins do… by water! To stay a little drier, the Simon’s Town Boat Company offers from high-speed runs down to Cape Point, whale-watching excursions and cruises over to Seal Island. The popular harbour cruise on the ‘Spirit of Just Nuisance’ is a wonderful way to see Simon’s Town from the water and discover the town’s naval history. On the outskirts of town The Old Burying Ground, established in 1814, also tells the chequered history of this harbour. Over 550 sailors lie buried here in the Garden of Remembrance, many of whom were barely into their teens. Keep a careful eye out for the graves of Boer War POWs, Italian stonemasons and Russian seamen… all of whom arrived in this picturesque port and never left. Sooner or later you’ll have to leave though, and as the last rays of sun poke through into the Bay it’s time to head back to my car at Kalk Bay. The scenic train ride along the coast is an excellent option, but as the sea is calm I decide to hop on the ‘Mellow Yellow Water Taxi’. With shuttles across to Kalk Bay harbour running every 30 minutes, with the chance to see whales en route in season, it’s a fabulous end to a day in this bay of plenty. As we motor gently into the harbour there’s a trickle of tardy tourists grabbing a late snoek for dinner. Ah, what the hell, I might as well tell you about that baste. Here’s my recipe for the perfect snoek braai. Enjoy. Braai the perfect snoek!
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