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17

Jul

First-timer's Cape Town

The Mother City. Slaapstad. iKapa. The Fairest Cape. Whatever you choose to call Cape Town there’s no doubting its magnetic appeal. European-style cafes abound, beaches surround the city on three sides, wineries beckon in the distance and the country’s finest restaurants are to be found in its historic streets. No wonder Capetonians are renowned (and envied) for their laid-back lifestyle!
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There’s no point rushing about trying to tick off a to-do list when you’re in the arms of the Mother City, so we’ve selected a few sights you absolutely cannot afford to skip.

[CAN'T MISS]
Towering a kilometre above the city the flat-topped Table Mountain is Cape Town’s defining feature, but you don’t have to be a mountain goat to reach its lofty heights. The Table Mountain Cableway will whisk you to the summit in just five minutes, offering spectacular views. Whether it’s the colourful Bo-Kaap or flashy Camps Bay, Cape Town looks good from all angles, so if there’s just one thing you do in the Mother Cityit should be to see them all from up high. Book your tickets online (http://tablemountain.net) and avoid the queues.


[TO-DO LIST]
Ease into Cape Town with a wander through the colourful city centre, where you’ll discover crafts from the continent in historic Greenmarket Square, more great shopping in and around St. George’s Mall, a green haven in the peaceful Company’s Garden and some of the country’s best art in the SA National Gallery.

But whether you’re in town for a weekend or a month, a drive along the length of the peninsula is a great way to get your bearings. Take the M3 out of town and you’ll pass close to Kirstenbosch Gardens (www.sanbi.org), one of the world’s finest botanical gardens. Established over 350 years ago, it’s the perfect place to discover the unique flora of the Cape Floral Kingdom. 

The nearby Constantia Wine Route (www.constantiawineroute.co.za) can also lay claim to a few centuries of history, with the first vines in South Africa planted here in the 17th century. Klein Constantia, Buitenverwachting, Uitsig and Steenberg all offer tastings free of charge.

With the vineyards in the rear-view mirror you’ll soon reach one of the city’s most scenic drives, as the Main Road winds its way from Muizenberg to Cape Point, often just metres from the splash of False Bay. Grab a surfing lesson at Surfer’s Corner (and try not to think about the sharks) or press on to the quaint fishing harbour of Kalk Bay. Wander along the pier and admire the colourful fishing fleet, or browse the village’s delightful art galleries and antique shops.

Fish Hoek beach is best visited in summer, so press on to the historic village of Simon’s Town. Once home to the Royal Navy, it’s a Great Dane called Just Nuisance that is the town’s favourite son. You’ll learn all about him, and the history of the village, on a one-hour harbour cruise with the Simon’s Town Boat Company (www.boatcompany.co.za). Fishing charters to the tuna grounds off Cape Point can also be found here.

Rich fishing waters are the reason the colony of African Penguins settled at nearby Boulders Beach, well worth a look in on your way to Cape Point Nature Reserve. The lighthouse at the Point is the main attraction, but leave a little time to explore the Cape of Good Hope and some of the reserve’s wonderful walking trails.

Crossing the spine of the peninsula, your road back to the city offers stunning views west over the glittering Atlantic. Take a stroll on Long Beach and then gasp at the view from the scenic Chapman’s Peak Drive, a good spot for late-afternoon fish ‘n chips from the picturesque Hout Bay harbour.

With the sun setting, the city is your oyster. Cape Town is home to the best restaurants in South Africa, with something for every pocket. The shops and restaurants of the V&A Waterfront are a perennial favourite, but head out into the city at least one night. Aubergine, Jardine’s and Savoy Cabbage offer some of the best fine dining in the city centre, or opt for something more affordable in Long Street. This vibey thoroughfare is home to most of Cape Town’s nightlife, from live music venues to bars and nightclubs.  More something a little more colourful, head for the boho bars and clubs of Observatory.


[LOCALS' SECRET]
Ignore the run-down buildings in lower Woodstock and keep an eye out for the rows of BMWs. That’s when you’ll know you’re close to the smorgasbord of all things foodie on offer at the Neighbourgoods Market (www.neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za).

Held every Saturday at the Old Biscuit Mill from 9am – 2pm, there’s no better place to stock up for a day of exploring. A trailer-full of artisanal bread comes through from Worcester in the wee hours, and is the perfect crust for the to-die-for duck liver paté. You’ll also find wonderful cheeses, home-smoked hams, delicate olives, great coffee and melt-in-the mouth French tarts.


[CHILD'S PLAY]
The Two Oceans Aquarium should be your first stop on a rainy day. Six galleries home to over 3000 marine animals call the aquarium – in the heart of the V&A Waterfront – home. Kids will gasp at sharks and rays in the Predator Tank and the peaceful undersea Kelp Forest, while the Afrisam Children’s Centre will keep them entertained while parents explore in peace.

The Planetarium at the top of the Company’s Gardens also offers a daily kids’ show, bring the stars down to earth. Also back on terra firma, the Higgeldy Piggeldy Farmyard at Imhoff Farm near Kommetjie is a fun-filled favourite with younger visitors. Children can get up close to a variety of friendly farmyard animals, from Piccadilly the pony to Mr Ginger the rabbit. The World of Birds in Hout Bay is equally likely to enthral young twitchers.

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[DAY TRIP]
A day in the Cape winelands is a must for any visitor. Franschhoek is famous for its sparkling wines made in the champagne style, while Paarl and Stellenbosch are known for their elegant reds.

Spend a little time in and around Stellenbosch, exploring the historic oak-lined streets of South Africa’s second oldest city. If you’re short on time, the Spier Estate offers a complete wine experience; from tastings to theatre, a deli and even wildlife interactions with raptors and cheetah.


[STADIUM NEED TO KNOW]

Built in the shadow of Signal Hill, the brand-new Cape Town Stadium towers over the Green Point Common. Parking in the area is limited, so public transport is your best bet. A free shuttle bus for ticket holders will run from the main transport hub in Hertzog Boulevard from four hours before kick-off, until four hours after the final whistle. A park-and-ride service (also free) will run from the University of Cape Town to the main transport hub. An Atlantic seaboard bus service (fee payable) will operate from Hout Bay to the main transport hub from four hours before kick-off until 2am.


First published in Equinox magazine; June/July 2010



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