07 Dec |
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 I said my last goodbyes to Liisi in Helsinki's Hietaniemi cemetery, planting smiling daisies at her Tuomainen family gravestone on a glorious mid-summer's morning. After half a century in England she had passed away peacefully and her ashes had been brought to rest in the country she loved. She'd been born in Ylämaa, a small trading town in eastern Finland, but moved to the capital as a young woman. Of all the tales she told, the one that sticks in my mind is of her walking across the frozen sea to work on one of the hundreds of islands that make up the archipelago surrounding the Finnish capital. The seas are clear on our warm summer day though. Having said our goodbyes at the cemetery we wander down to the Helsinki harbour-front where the famous fleet of sturdy ice-breakers are safely tethered to their summer moorings. Gone are the sub-zero temperatures and snowy streets; the clear Finnish air is filled with the soft evening light of long summer days on the doorstep of the Arctic Circle. It's a time when the capital springs to life as Finns come out to play; pavement cafes are packed with trendy office workers and the Gulf of Finland teems with sailing boats. It's no surprise that Finns love the water. With over 300 000 kilometres of coastline there is plenty of space for their 750 000 boats! Frozen commuting aside, the sea has long played an important role in the history of Helsinki and a boat trip around the islands is a great way to get a feel for the city and soak up the fantastic views of the Helsinki skyline. Sightseeing trips leave from the Marinkasernskajen pier at the bottom of Esplanade Park, a green lung in the heart of the city, and take anywhere from a few hours to an entire day to meander through the maze of islands where wealthy Finns own holiday cottages, each with a sauna on the jetty and steps down to the Baltic for a bracing dip. Your first stop will be the island fortress of Suomenlinna; literally the "Fortress of Finland". This UNESCO World Heritage Site stretches across six small islands and, due to its strategic location in the Gulf of Finland, has seen fierce battles throughout its 250-year history. Although cannons still guard the fortified ramparts, and a few naval areas are off-limits to tourists, the fortress was opened up to the public in the mid-70s and has since become a popular destination for Finns and tourists to walk and picnic. The fortress is one of Helsinki’s main attractions and, apart from sight-seeing tours, is also easy to access on one of the commuter ferries that leave every half hour from the market square. Built in 1748 when Finland was ruled by Sweden, Suomenlinna is just one reminder that for centuries Finland was a political football squabbled over by Russia and Sweden, and even today the Finns are not especially fond of their eastern neighbours. Yet contrary to what you'd expect, while the Swedes left behind an impenetrable sea fortress the Russian legacy is both sacred and stunning. The Uspenski Cathedral; Finland's most important Russian Orthodox Church and the largest in Western Europe, is a magnificent site. Placed regally on a hill overlooking the harbour, the green and gold onion domes glinting in the sun are a powerful reminder of the sway that Mother Russia once held over the Finns. Not as ornate, but equally impressive, is the striking Lutheran Church that dominates the Senate Square a few steps away. Compared to the elaborate Uspenski Cathedral the stark white interior of the church is a breathtaking contrast that is striking in its simplicity. The expansive Square is also where locals come to see in the New Year in the depths of winter, but in the long summer days the Senate steps are simply a great place to marvel at the city skyline. "But where are the forests?" I hear you ask. "Tell me about lakes and Lapps, forests and fjords!" Well, there isn't much to tell I'm afraid. With its coiffed streets and stylish architecture Helsinki is a world away from the dank forests and dark lakes further north. Your best bet, if you don't have time to venture further afield, is to head for Seurasaari. Just 20-minutes from the city centre, Seurasaari is an open-air museum celebrating the rural culture of Finland. The main attraction is the number of historic wooden houses dismantled from across the country and reconstructed here as a living museum, but the island is also simply a wonderful break from the city streets. Paths meander through the forest, squirrels harass you for nuts and swans paddle elegantly through the waters of the Gulf of Finland. It's the perfect place to pack a picnic and spend the day out of the city. Speaking of food, eating and drinking in the Euro-zone is likely to give your credit card palpitations and Finland is among the worst culprits. If you can stomach the high prices though, the city is your culinary oyster. Save those cents and fork out for Reindeer in Elderberry sauce washed down with berry vodka at the wood-panelled 'Lappi', or splash out on the R900 Lappish game selection, which includes grilled Elk fillet, fried Deer sausage and roast Reindeer. If you're on a budget, or looking for Seurasaari picnic supplies, the harbour-front kauppatori is home to a vibrant marketplace in the summer. Pocket a punnet of fresh cherries, bag a bread from the nearby indoor market, grab some smoked herrings off the fishermen's boats and you'll have a feast for under R100. For something warm, local stalls sell generous plates of vendace (similar to British whitebait) and chips for around €10 It's worth saving a few euros too, as the Fazer shop in Kluuvikatu is one place you can’t miss. This Helsinki institution been in the same spot since 1891, and has become the capital's most famous coffee shop. The best cake and coffee in town shouldn’t set you back more than about €5, and the experience of living the Helsinki café life is a real highlight. No wonder Liisi often stopped off there to warm up after her walk across the icy sea. With its high style and haute cuisine, Helsinki is one of Europe’s undiscovered gems. Brimming with history and combining cutting-edge culture with age-old customs, the Finnish capital is rapidly becoming one of the hottest destinations in Scandinavia. Start saving now… » Originally published in The Weekender Travel & Food, 16 November 2008. Add this page to your favorite Social Bookmarking websites            |