30 Apr |
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 I debate a last-minute swim, but decide that the warm beach is a better bet, so I scrunch my toes deep into the coarse honey-coloured sands and think to myself: could this really be Hong Kong? The sands of Repulse Bay are the perfect spot to revive feet trail-sore after a day of walking in Hong Kong. And no, I don’t mean pounding the pavements in search of the next great bargain. I’ve done that already on my four-day foray to this Special Administrative Region of China, but a day spent exploring the far reaches of Hong Kong Island proves that there is so much more to the city than retail therapy. Chances are, when you think of Hong Kong you are picturing the view from atop Victoria Peak, gazing down at the city. In the foreground is glitzy Central, home to the financial powerhouses of the city. Tucked amongst the neon is Lan Kwai Fong where you’ll find the city’s best nightlife and some great restaurants to boot. Victoria Harbour is cluttered with ferries, sampans and tourist boats; while beyond the water the cheek-by-jowl skyscrapers of Kowloon stretch northwards to the border with the ‘real’ China. Nathan Road, night markets, restaurants in Tsim Tsha Tsui and the waterfront Avenue of Stars walkway all wait to be explored. But if you turn away from that view you’re faced with another Hong Kong entirely. Look behind you and you’ll discover a Hong Kong of crescent bays, wide beaches and calm seas. A Hong Kong of rolling hills and jagged peaks, pushed up 150-million years ago by volcanic forces, and now covered with thick forest. This is the Hong Kong few people tell you about. “This path is named Lugard’s Walk,” says Marco Foehn over his shoulder as we wander high above the city. “It was named for Sir Frederick Lugard, the 14th Governor of Hong Kong.” A retired banker, Marco left the spreadsheets and speculation behind to start ‘Walk Hong Kong’ tours that show visitors a greener side to his adopted home. “Although we do offer tours through the city and the markets, so few people realise that there are many places in Hong Kong where you can completely escape the city,” said Marco. And after a day or three in the throng of the city I was only too happy to spend some time exploring the hills of Hong Kong Island. One of Marco’s most popular walks is through the Pok Fu Lam Country Park, meandering seven kilometres from the tram station on Victoria Peak down to Aberdeen in the south. Gliding up the impossibly steep rails of the Peak Tram it’s staggering to think that labourers would carry rich colonists up to their hilltop mansions in sedan chairs. Luckily for today’s walkers, it’s all downhill from here and the path leads gently through thick forest on wide trails. Joggers and cyclists speed past us as we take it easy and stop regularly to admire the views over the city. “Did you know Hong Kong is home to over 460 species of birds?” asks Marco, just as one of the many Black Kites that have been playing on the thermals swoops below us. White-Bellied Sea Eagles, closely related to our own African Fish Eagle, are also common in the area. “In these forests and on the Mainland you’ll also find more than 230 types of butterfly.” The path wanders on, a tunnel through the forest with the occasional glimpse of skyscraper to remind us that we’re actually in the midst of one of the world’s most densely populated cities. Yet despite the iconic skyscrapers and towering apartment blocks, less than a quarter of Hong Kong is built-up, and a surprising 43 percent is dedicated as Natural Park. In the far northeast of the territory are the jungle-covered hills and deserted beaches of the East Sai Kung Country Park. Just 20-kilometres from frenetic Kowloon are beaches and forests where the only way in or out is by foot or boat, and the day is spent walking on paths between villages of the Hakka clan.  We leave the shady cool of the forest and take a short break at High West; today a tranquil picnic spot overlooking the Pearl River Delta, but during World War II it was vital to the defence of Hong Kong and the armoured pillboxes still remain. The path continues next to a deep water-channel heading towards Aberdeen Reservoir – we’re lucky to spot a rare wild terrapin diving for the depths – and it’s not long before we are gazing down at the fishing harbour of Aberdeen, a daunting 900 steps below us. It’s the centre of the city’s fishing industry, and a popular spot for sampan rides and seafood dinners. The floating Jumbo Restaurant has become a Hong Kong icon, and offers decent food at reasonable prices, although the glittering double story restaurant verges on a theme park for tourists. Which is perhaps fitting, as Aberdeen is also home to Ocean Park; Hong Kong’s most beloved theme park. Attracting over five million visitors a year it’s ideal for tourists with family in tow and you can easily spend a day exploring the animal exhibits and whooping on the rides. I’m here to avoid the crowds though, so I hop on one of the frequent buses cruising along the southern edge of Hong Kong Island. A single ride only costs a few Hong Kong dollars, so it’s an affordable way to get around. The fare system is automated though, and only accepts coins, so make sure you have some loose change before you board. This southern coast of the island is home to some of the city’s best beaches. Dozens of yachts lie moored in Deep Water Bay while neighbouring Repulse Bay is the Clifton of Hong Kong. Multi-million dollar apartments gaze down over the calm waters and clean beaches where tourists in the know come to suntan and swim. It’s hard to imagine a better place to escape the crowds of Kowloon. A few stops further on is the village of Stanley, a popular spot with tourists and their shopping bags thanks to its excellent covered market. It’s also here that you’ll find the worthwhile Hong Kong Maritime Museum. It’s housed on the ground floor of Murray House; a colonnaded, nineteenth-century building on the waterfront that was moved here from Central and rebuilt brick by brick! Stanley is also a popular spot for water sports, and the main beach is likely to be packed on hot summer days. The autumn weather is mild though, so I’ll wait until the steamy summer months to hit the water. I’m running out of time and there are no buses coming along, so I hop in one of the ubiquitous red taxis. I’m running late, and I have a date with The Dragon’s Back. Voted one of the best urban trails in Asia by Time Magazine, the 8.5-kilometre path climbs steeply through bamboo and banana thickets from the trailhead at To Tei Wan. The short, sharp climb is worth it though, as you’re soon rewarded with some of the best views in Hong Kong. From the summit the undulating ridge of the Dragon’s Back stretches out before you, with views up and across to the peaks of Hong Kong Island and deserted islands out in the South China Sea. In the right conditions, paragliders launch here to play in the thermals and surfers hit the typhoon-driven swells at Dai Long Wan (Big Wave Bay) down below. The trail eventually meanders off the ridge and down through thick forest to a road junction that leads you to the laid-back village of Shek O. Hit one of the two relaxed beaches, or pull up a chair at a restaurant serving cold Tsing Tao beer and fresh seafood. Tough choice. I catch the bus back to Repulse Bay just as the sun is setting fire to the South China Sea. I’ve run out of time, but tomorrow I’ll be back up above the city on Bowen’s Walk. A short taxi ride from Wan Chai, this shady promenade is a popular spot for morning joggers and is one of the city’s most delightful – and unexplored – spots. The highlight of the Walk is an outcrop known as Lover’s Rock by the locals, and couples come from as far afield as Japan to pray at the rock’s small temple for a happy marriage. Perhaps I’ll offer a few words to appease the long-suffering spouse of a travel writer. But for now, there’s just enough light to jot these last words down into my Moleskine and soak up the warmth from the sands of Repulse Bay. I wonder if it really is too late for a swim. Perhaps tomorrow… Smart traveller:
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